OP
Thanks Mike...too many things going on to get much progress.Table is turning out very nice Eric. Great job.
Above 1200 Sq/FT Garage Refurb®
- Thread starter NUTTSGT
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
OP
None, which I'm currently considering now. I could "hot wire" the furnace blower when I'm doing this type of work.
But I think will keep an eye out for something out there.
OP
Cut the two end cross beams for mock up.
These will be the mounts for the leveling legs. Just need to drill, weld and finish them.
These will be the mounts for the leveling legs. Just need to drill, weld and finish them.
OP
Well, I swear, if it's not one thing, it's another. While trying to drill out the leg mounts, the bit kept stopping. Hmmm, more oil....drill, stop. Nope
Let's check belt tightness... yeah could be lighter... check.... Drill, stop, nope.
Well damn.
But on the pulley/spindle, the nut came off.. but was still riding in top of the pulley.
Let's put it back on and drill. Nope
Does it ever stop ?
Off to work overtime.
Let's check belt tightness... yeah could be lighter... check.... Drill, stop, nope.
Well damn.
But on the pulley/spindle, the nut came off.. but was still riding in top of the pulley.
Let's put it back on and drill. Nope
Does it ever stop ?
Off to work overtime.
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I tape a 20x20 filter to a box fan. Downside is that it's loud compared to your furnace, especially with the box fan under load from the restrictive filter.
Well, I swear, if it's not one thing, it's another. While trying to drill out the leg mounts, the bit kept stopping. Hmmm, more oil....drill, stop. Nope
Let's check belt tightness... yeah could be lighter... check.... Drill, stop, nope.
Well damn.
But on the pulley/spindle came off.. but was still riding in top of the pulley.
Let's put it back on and drill. Nope
Does it ever stop ?
Off to work overtime
I’ve found these things come in threes……
OP
Band saw, empty welding gas bottle, and the drill press.....I’ve found these things come in threes……
Should be good to go for the near future.
OP
A few minutes with a couple of jeweler files, cleaned it with some Brakleen and blue loctite.
Back together and letting the loctite dry
Back together and letting the loctite dry
OP
Well, they were $40 buying in bulk and I did have a Menards rebate for about $46. So yeah...
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I feel for ya Eric. Some days I feel like it's one step forward and three steps back, especially as my fleet of vehicles age and my time is demanded elsewhere. The key is to keep forward pressure and you'll make progress. Although easier said than done, I know.
Keep at it buddy, the table is turning out great.
Keep at it buddy, the table is turning out great.
OP
Thanks again Mike. . . . However, I had issue rear it's head again.
I had this issue before, chucked one partial spool of wire, bought another spool of Hobart wire. It ran good for a bit and started to do the same thing. I was pissed, never had this problem with the smaller Hobart 175 in 15 years.
Today, it does the same at about the same spot in the wire spool.
I pulled about 25' of wire out. Tried again, nope... Okay so what the **** is going on? Yeah, Eric is slightly more than pissed as I was waiting on a phone call too.
Do I have the right size feed rollers ? Yeah, . Well no... Well yeah. I thought I had .035 but I have .030 wire, a roll of Blue Demon. We're good there but now that I have my readers on.
Can you see the wear pattern ? Yep, the roller alignment is off. Not sure how I ever missed that.
I had this issue before, chucked one partial spool of wire, bought another spool of Hobart wire. It ran good for a bit and started to do the same thing. I was pissed, never had this problem with the smaller Hobart 175 in 15 years.
Today, it does the same at about the same spot in the wire spool.
I pulled about 25' of wire out. Tried again, nope... Okay so what the **** is going on? Yeah, Eric is slightly more than pissed as I was waiting on a phone call too.
Do I have the right size feed rollers ? Yeah, . Well no... Well yeah. I thought I had .035 but I have .030 wire, a roll of Blue Demon. We're good there but now that I have my readers on.
Can you see the wear pattern ? Yep, the roller alignment is off. Not sure how I ever missed that.
OP
I tried to use some Grade 5 nuts and ground off the green ****. Still looking to be a problem.
Looks like a trip to TSC for some regular nuts.
Looks like a trip to TSC for some regular nuts.
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
If you soak galvanized nuts and bolts in muriatic acid they come out bare steel. You might already know this. You might have some other coating on the current nuts.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Eric, drive system tension can be a tricky adjustment. Too loose and the drive rolls slip and therefore increase wear and cause damage. Too tight and it can deform the wire and therefore also damage the liner plus if/when it hits a snag, rather than slip it stacks up creating a bird's nest resulting in wasted time and definitely wasted wire (ie. $$$$). I used to fight tension issues early in my career until a guy showed me a trick to get the tension correct. This will also test the integrity of the drive rolls as well.
Back the tension off on the drive system, place the gun's nozzle directly on a the concrete floor, squeeze the trigger and begin feeding and simultaneously increase the tension on the drive system. As soon as the gun pushed up away from the floor stop and that is enough tension.
As for the nuts, I quit mechanically removing the zinc coating by abrasive measures years ago and now soak them in muricatic acid for a bit. I usually keep a few sizes on hand with the zinc removed for those quick jobs. When I have a specific job I'm soaking fasteners for, I will just toss in a few extra of various sizes and keep them on hand for exactly these kinds of projects. I refuse to weld any fasteners with the coating still on anymore as the results are always terrible.
Just keep the muriatic acid away from anything else carbon based in the shop or you'll be sorry. I generally pour a little in a steel container and set it outside my shop door for an hour or so, then wash the fasteners and blow off with compressed air.
Back the tension off on the drive system, place the gun's nozzle directly on a the concrete floor, squeeze the trigger and begin feeding and simultaneously increase the tension on the drive system. As soon as the gun pushed up away from the floor stop and that is enough tension.
As for the nuts, I quit mechanically removing the zinc coating by abrasive measures years ago and now soak them in muricatic acid for a bit. I usually keep a few sizes on hand with the zinc removed for those quick jobs. When I have a specific job I'm soaking fasteners for, I will just toss in a few extra of various sizes and keep them on hand for exactly these kinds of projects. I refuse to weld any fasteners with the coating still on anymore as the results are always terrible.
Just keep the muriatic acid away from anything else carbon based in the shop or you'll be sorry. I generally pour a little in a steel container and set it outside my shop door for an hour or so, then wash the fasteners and blow off with compressed air.
OP
That's basically what I did prior with the wire Mike. When I had the issue before, I did a little YouTube research. Now, I see the whole issue, hopefully, was wire alignment.
The left green nuts are what I was using. The right ones are what I just bought. Never really had an issue with them after a roloc.
Got some practice....
The left green nuts are what I was using. The right ones are what I just bought. Never really had an issue with them after a roloc.
Got some practice....
OP
Yes the Grade 5 are coated with some green ****.
Edit: Looking like I'll be getting some muriatic acid. That first one welded like **** too.
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OP
Tomorrow. . . .
68400BIRD
Well-known member
Love and hate that stuff. I used it for years to clean the hull of our boat. Kneeled down it to long one fall by accident and the skin on my knee is always regenerating. Be careful with gloves and breathing it in.
madison069
Well-known member
We used it a lot in the oil field to clean pump jack tubings. The parfian wax build up was bad so we used that acid to clean it and get the well pumping better. Just don’t let it get on you for a long period.
OP
Thanks guys. It'll be outside and wearing gloves)glasses.
OP
Is it weird to say that I dipped my nuts ?
I can live with these results
I can live with these results
OP
Ever wonder if getting the welding ground clamp on your finger would hurt ?
I know the answer.
I know the answer.
OP
Started the morning running to a fairly local Ace hardware store and bought a 3/4" tap to run through those back to back nuts. While I was there, I grabbed a 3/4" die.
I ran it in and out a couple of times and then checked the threaded rod. Good to go
I ran it in and out a couple of times and then checked the threaded rod. Good to go
OP
After a pass in the blast cabinet, they were ready for the next step. Fully welded to the cross member.
Cross members have the top pass made and it was time for lunch. Going back out to flip the table and weld in a better position.
Cross members have the top pass made and it was time for lunch. Going back out to flip the table and weld in a better position.
OP
As far as I know, all the bottom frame welds are done, at least to this part of the build.
I believe next is going to be adding receiver tubing. I'm putting 4 on, one each corner but facing different directions.
See the blue arrows ? They will come out this direction and opposite on the other side. I figure this will give me good work arounds from wherever I'm working.
EDIT: I didn't realize those pics weren't that good after taking them with my phone.
I believe next is going to be adding receiver tubing. I'm putting 4 on, one each corner but facing different directions.
See the blue arrows ? They will come out this direction and opposite on the other side. I figure this will give me good work arounds from wherever I'm working.
EDIT: I didn't realize those pics weren't that good after taking them with my phone.
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OP
I have a special detour from the welding table.
Worked a 48 and yesterday was spent picking up a new tool.
Future proofing, just in case.
Worked a 48 and yesterday was spent picking up a new tool.
Future proofing, just in case.
OP
Adding a few things to the outside of the truck. Replaced my IAFF window decals.
Polished up my Ford Racing license plate frame. I won that at a Team Z open house a decade plus ago. Tossed in a new smoked plate cover too.
Polished up my Ford Racing license plate frame. I won that at a Team Z open house a decade plus ago. Tossed in a new smoked plate cover too.
OP
New tonneau cover going on.
Then I need to find a place for all my "****."
Windows get tinted on Tuesday and spray in bed liner on Thursday.
Then I need to find a place for all my "****."
Windows get tinted on Tuesday and spray in bed liner on Thursday.
bugnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Eric, thats a good looking truck! New race hauler for the Mustang, next?
OP
Wife asked same thing when she realized I spec'ed out the gooseneck prep.
No plans for a new trailer but just in case, it was cheaper to add the prep package now rather than later.
I believe the charge for it was only $550. So in the grand scheme of things, that's cheap on a new truck.
RickP
Well-known member
Very nice new ride!
OP
Thanks. Wife enjoys riding in it as well. I believe it rides better than the F250 did.
OP
No, this one is a gasser too. The newer 7.3 pushrod engine with the 10 speed transmission I was looking at the tach coming home from work this morning, 55 mph @ 1500 rpm.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Congrats on the new truck Eric.
OP
Thanks Mike. I ordered it in November and it took about 3 months exactly to get it. I believe the timing was right with Ford coming back right after strike, I don't think there was a lot of orders being placed, especially Ford employees.
The real awesome part was the phone call I got on the way up to the dealership. The guy that bought the JD 1025R wanted to come look at it that night and committed to buying it.
OP
Used the welding table as a welding table before it was finished yesterday.
Holding together a 3/4" & a 1" nut for the beginning of the leveling legs.
Three of them welded up and cooling.
Holding together a 3/4" & a 1" nut for the beginning of the leveling legs.
Three of them welded up and cooling.
OP
I finally got tired of the headgear on my Miller welding helmet not staying up. I emailed them a few months back and talked to a rep about it. Basically, it was "buy new headgear", or new helmet option. I received an email from Miller about a week ago for a newly released headgear. I found it on Cyberweld and with a $50 order, I got free shipping, so I bought a few more things.
I believe I needed a new outside lense cover. The original one is getting nasty.
After the welded nuts cooled, they were spun on the threaded rod. Just under flush
Then welded up.
I believe I needed a new outside lense cover. The original one is getting nasty.
After the welded nuts cooled, they were spun on the threaded rod. Just under flush
Then welded up.
OP
Next up, cut some of the DOM tubing for the receiver tubes getting mounted on the underside of the table. I had to clean up a few more 3/4" for all the tubes.
.
I drilled a 3/4" hole for a nut to be welded over it.
I located the nut/hole with a bolt down through the hole.
.
I drilled a 3/4" hole for a nut to be welded over it.
I located the nut/hole with a bolt down through the hole.