OP
Great, just ******* great.
Above 1200 Sq/FT Garage Refurb®
- Thread starter NUTTSGT
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
OP
Well, it looks like it was already broken in one bolt hole.
OP
Yeah it does Cam. I threw my gloves on the floor, locked up the garage, took the dog outside and just sat in one of the patio chairs.
I'll get it all cleaned up and then figure out what I am going to do. $200 drill press, a tank of gas and a 6 hour road trip is not going to go to waste.
OP
That's what my current plan of thought is Cam.. but without measuring,I'm sure it's a tapered piece. I may need an internal flange on the inside at the top, essentially press fit around the column and welded to the new vertical column.A 12” or so piece of 1/4” wall DOM tubing and weld on a new flange. What size is the column, 3” I imagine?
That's why I wanted to get it cleaned up and then start the fix.
Get it clean, take some measurements and create a plan. Thankfully, I still have the smaller drill press when I build a flange.
RickP
Well-known member
The DOM tubing sounds like it will work.
But could the flange be welded instead? Is it cast steel or cast iron? It's way beyond my skill level, but with enough preheat and the right rod, I'll bet it could be fixed.
Either way will not be an easy repair.
(I'm planning to repair a cast steel garden bench with my stick welder. I've been putting off starting it for years because I don't have the right rods, but that repair won't have the tight tolerances that your flange will have.)
But could the flange be welded instead? Is it cast steel or cast iron? It's way beyond my skill level, but with enough preheat and the right rod, I'll bet it could be fixed.
Either way will not be an easy repair.
(I'm planning to repair a cast steel garden bench with my stick welder. I've been putting off starting it for years because I don't have the right rods, but that repair won't have the tight tolerances that your flange will have.)
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
I think for something like that you’d want to consider furnace brazing. Might cost a bit but would be stronger and probably the cheapest long term solution. Just looked on my phone, looks like there are quite a few pros around your area that specialize in that process.
OP
I'm pretty sure it's cast iron or something cheap. The drill press was made in China, so I'm guessing not a super high quality material.
Even if it is steel, there's not much material around the bolt holes.
OP
Not sure what you are seeing but I would interested in who you found.
OP
I took the easy way out on the bottom of the base. Cleaned it and sprayed it with undercoating.
OP
Moving away from the drill press for the time being and on to another project.
Pallet racking for the house garage. This is getting shortened from 17' to 10'4".
Almost done with the cutting the last upright and the plasma cutter quits working...story of my life.
Pallet racking for the house garage. This is getting shortened from 17' to 10'4".
Almost done with the cutting the last upright and the plasma cutter quits working...story of my life.
OP
I fired off an email to Hobart referencing a warranty claim. Typical for **** to break on Friday afternoon, going to be Monday (atleast) before I hear anything. Not real happy as it's just over 2 years old.
I believe the issue is the air solenoid is allowing air to by pass as it'll constantly leak out (low flow) air through the torch. Website says there's a place fairly local that does service work but we'll see what their responding email says.
I believe the issue is the air solenoid is allowing air to by pass as it'll constantly leak out (low flow) air through the torch. Website says there's a place fairly local that does service work but we'll see what their responding email says.
OP
Went out to breakfast with the wife this morning, stopped by Menards and HF. I decided to pick up this HF 27" to replace the box in the addition.
I like the new gray with black trim. A little bit opposite of what I already have.
This is what is getting replaced.
I like the new gray with black trim. A little bit opposite of what I already have.
This is what is getting replaced.
OP
It's not out of the box yet I will say this......
Heed this warning.
Heed this warning.
OP
Well, there it sits, in the same place as the old Cman box. Too bad this box is about 2" taller to the top of the box, not counting the lid
I never took that into account, lid doesn't open far enough for the drawers to open. . . . never had that problem with the other one.
I never took that into account, lid doesn't open far enough for the drawers to open. . . . never had that problem with the other one.
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OP
Problem solved.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Eric, I bought both the top and bottom box but it was too tall for the spot where I wanted it to go. First fix was to remove the casters, second fix was to remove the top.
Then I shuffled the drawers so the deepest was on top so I could have all the 3/8 and 1/4 inch metric sockets closer to the big guys (along with the duplicate and bigger than the organizer allowed half-inch sockets).
I can access my half-inch chrome and impact metric sockets but the furthest back sockets come out better with the overhead cabinet doors open. I can even keep the extra lug nut keys stored on the appropriate short socket (in case I forget where I hid the ones in the cars).
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OP
I believe I posted about the granddaughters wagon project a few years back. What started as my wagon about 50 years was refurbished, lifted and painted JD colors.
It has come back for a second restoration. This time after being tornado damaged. It was in the daughter and SIL's shed which got flattened by the neighbors 2 car garage.
Kinda made me tear up a bit.
It has come back for a second restoration. This time after being tornado damaged. It was in the daughter and SIL's shed which got flattened by the neighbors 2 car garage.
Kinda made me tear up a bit.
jbmatth
Well-known member
Sad to see that, but the intro to the old TV show the 6 Million Dollar Man came to mind. "We can rebuild it. We have the technology. We can make the wagon better than it was. Better . . . stronger . . . faster."
JB
JB
Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
That is going to take more than just a bit of buffing!
SamYoung
Well-known member
For having a garage dropped on it, it doesn't look to bad. Always sad to see an old project come back to you in that state, but glad, based on the lack of statement, the family made it through safe. I hope I didn't misread the situation on that.
OP
Technology.....my plasma cutter is in the shop for warranty work.
OP
Yes it will. It's going to get shelved for the time being. First order of business will be getting new JD vinyl cut.
OP
Nobody got hurt when it rolled through town. Granddaughter was laying on her bed but her Mom, my daughter, said "we're going to the basement". As they got to the stairs on the other end of the house, their house got hit and it blew the granddaughters bedroom window in.... there was glass sticking in the drywall, in the carpet, in her drawers that weren't fully closed. Yeah, we got lucky. I'll take wagon damage instead.
Daughter and SIL bought the house about 4 years ago. The owners passed away and it had a bad fountain, a bunch of cracked blocks. They paid for a new foundation under the house before selling it without raising the price... Saved them several thousand $$$. We knew the block later as he worked with my late FIL...He did a little extra at no charge. About 2 years later, they had to put a new furnace in. That was put in by a guy that worked at ty Sheriff's Office with the wife, he cut them a good deal for cash.
Not they are getting new siding, a new roof, a new 12x12 shed and new mower as a result of the tornado. I told them, it ***** but it'll put them ahead of the game with all the new stuff, this young in home ownership.
Oh, did I mention, their insurance agent is married to my niece and the adjuster was 2 years behind me in school ? I've always told my girls, life is about connections, knowing the right people can make life way easier.
OP
This is the neighbors garage roof, behind it is their shed roof. The wagon and mower were under that.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The drill press is looking good Eric, ***** about the broken cast flange though.
Can you weld the base? I know cast isn't the most pleasant to weld, but I have had pretty good results welding/repairing cast iron parts. I have another rather large one sitting on the fabrication table now.
Your 20" Craftsman looks almost identical to my old Taiwanese made 20" Jet drill press. In addition to the swing measurement, many times the table correspond to similar measurements as the swing. For example that is probably a 20" table as well, or pretty dang close.
Can you weld the base? I know cast isn't the most pleasant to weld, but I have had pretty good results welding/repairing cast iron parts. I have another rather large one sitting on the fabrication table now.
Your 20" Craftsman looks almost identical to my old Taiwanese made 20" Jet drill press. In addition to the swing measurement, many times the table correspond to similar measurements as the swing. For example that is probably a 20" table as well, or pretty dang close.
OP
Table might be 20" across Mike, I know it's a fairly large table.
Honestly, I don't think I have the skills to weld that cast. I did weld a couple of holes shut on my old wood burner. However it was cast steel and while I had a fire going so it was already pre-heated, stayed hot and cooled together with everything else when the fire went out.
I'm going to build a flange and weld a tube to it and another flange at the top...once I get my plasma cutter back.
Honestly, I don't think I have the skills to weld that cast. I did weld a couple of holes shut on my old wood burner. However it was cast steel and while I had a fire going so it was already pre-heated, stayed hot and cooled together with everything else when the fire went out.
I'm going to build a flange and weld a tube to it and another flange at the top...once I get my plasma cutter back.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I should have been more clear Eric, I think the table is comparable in size to swing but measure diagonally, similar to a TV. At least many of the ones I've seen there seems to be a correlation.
As for the cast iron, for larger castings I prefer to stick (GMAW) using a nickel rod (Ni-55 or Ni-99) and some preheat and they usually don't weld too bad. For structural or larger web thickness I prefer Ni-55 for overall strength on thicker sections and if I'm not going to be machining and Ni-99 for thinner material thickness and if I will need to machine afterwards.
For much more general repairs or thinner materials I also like to use silicon bronze and TIG weld them.
I think you would be fine to tackle the repair with maybe a few test welds under your belt. Just add some preheat and allow it to cool slowly.
OP
No TIG welder here Mike and absolutely, no experience with it, so that's out for me.
Stick, I was never good.....lack of practice generally.
I do have a roll of ER80S ( I think that's what it is) I bought for some chromoly and was trying to read if it might work for cast.
I might have another option, the place I get my steel is a machine shop run by the "Amish" and pretty good at what they do. I'm going to inquire with them about doing a repair.
OP
Mustang in the garage, on jack stands. Oil draining, filter off. Front wheels are getting new tires and a list of other things to do.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Eric, I most definitely would not use that for welding cast iron. With cast iron you need some ductility, such as a rod with nickel in it and ER80S (ER80SD-2 is what I use for 4130 chromoly) will definitely not be ductile enough and will surely crack.
OP
I appreciate the info Mike, that's more than I got with a Google search. I know TSC has some nickel rods, not sure exactly which one, I but I did browse the inventory the other day.
I still believe me, stick welding is beyond my skill level. It's back burned for the next couple weeks. I'm going to try to get back on it after the NMRA race next weekend.
OP
Oil changed and using Brad Penn.
OP
Front tires are back from the tire shop and I mounted them after mowing the yard tonight.
I also broke out the digital scale...old tires mounted were 27 lbs and about 10 ounces. The new ones are 31 lbs and about the same ounces. So about 8 more pounds on the front of the car...but going from 24" tire to a 26" tire.
I also broke out the digital scale...old tires mounted were 27 lbs and about 10 ounces. The new ones are 31 lbs and about the same ounces. So about 8 more pounds on the front of the car...but going from 24" tire to a 26" tire.
OP
Kinda both...I run NMRA & NMCA True Street class.
So yes it is streetable and requires a 30 mile cruise with a short cool down before 3 back to back qualifying passes. Closed hood policy and no refueling once cruise starts until completion of event. No tire swaps.. just air down.
Pretty much run what ya brung in street trim
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OP
Further information about the class.
Class Description
True Street is a racing class for mildly modified to heavily modified high performance Ford-based street vehicles that are street certified and able to drive over a 30-mile distance. All Ford vehicles permitted. Any Ford based engine, and any number and/or type of power adders are permitted. Vehicles must be registered, licensed, and insured. There will be trophies and awards for not only the quickest average, and runner up, but also for the following: closest averaged ET that is not quicker than the following – 9.00, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00, 13.00, 14.00, and 15.00. Each class winner must fall within its respective ET category; example 9 second winner average must be between 9.00 to 9.99, 10 second winner average must be 10.00 to 10.99 and so on for each class winner, Etc.
CRUISE
There will be a 30 mile cruise using either a supervised cruise or a Rally style (utilizing check points) cruise before True Street Eliminations. Cruise is mandatory in the time allotted for competition. Any vehicle unable to complete the road tour under its own power, within the allotted time, will be disqualified from racing. Any vehicle that falls behind the trailing ****** will be disqualified. Each competitor and crew will be on their own recognizance during the cruise and bear the full responsibility of their actions as they would on city streets. Please be safe and follow all traffic laws during the cruise.
COOLDOWN PERIOD/RETURN PROCEDURES
After the vehicles return from the road tour, they will return directly to the designated staging lanes for the cool-down period. They may not change tires. The cool-down period will typically last between 15 to 45 minutes.
During this cool down period only, entrants may:
A strict CLOSED HOOD policy will be in effect until a competitor has completed his or her three back-to-back passes. No refueling allowed once car leaves on cruise. Engines must remain turned off during entire cool-down period. External cooling of engine by any means (cold water, outdoor fans, etc.) prohibited. Any engine changes, repairs, or adjustments (changing rocker arms, carburetor adjustments, etc.) prohibited. Changing of tires prohibited. No laptops in vehicle permitted at any time once the first of the three back-to-back passes is initiated. No external charging of battery / batteries permitted.
Class Description
True Street is a racing class for mildly modified to heavily modified high performance Ford-based street vehicles that are street certified and able to drive over a 30-mile distance. All Ford vehicles permitted. Any Ford based engine, and any number and/or type of power adders are permitted. Vehicles must be registered, licensed, and insured. There will be trophies and awards for not only the quickest average, and runner up, but also for the following: closest averaged ET that is not quicker than the following – 9.00, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00, 13.00, 14.00, and 15.00. Each class winner must fall within its respective ET category; example 9 second winner average must be between 9.00 to 9.99, 10 second winner average must be 10.00 to 10.99 and so on for each class winner, Etc.
CRUISE
There will be a 30 mile cruise using either a supervised cruise or a Rally style (utilizing check points) cruise before True Street Eliminations. Cruise is mandatory in the time allotted for competition. Any vehicle unable to complete the road tour under its own power, within the allotted time, will be disqualified from racing. Any vehicle that falls behind the trailing ****** will be disqualified. Each competitor and crew will be on their own recognizance during the cruise and bear the full responsibility of their actions as they would on city streets. Please be safe and follow all traffic laws during the cruise.
COOLDOWN PERIOD/RETURN PROCEDURES
After the vehicles return from the road tour, they will return directly to the designated staging lanes for the cool-down period. They may not change tires. The cool-down period will typically last between 15 to 45 minutes.
During this cool down period only, entrants may:
- Adjust tire pressure (add or remove tire pressure),
- Install fresh nitrous bottles
- Install ice in their intercooler (only if located in trunk, rear hatch or rear seat area).
A strict CLOSED HOOD policy will be in effect until a competitor has completed his or her three back-to-back passes. No refueling allowed once car leaves on cruise. Engines must remain turned off during entire cool-down period. External cooling of engine by any means (cold water, outdoor fans, etc.) prohibited. Any engine changes, repairs, or adjustments (changing rocker arms, carburetor adjustments, etc.) prohibited. Changing of tires prohibited. No laptops in vehicle permitted at any time once the first of the three back-to-back passes is initiated. No external charging of battery / batteries permitted.
Prospecter
Well-known member
Thanks for the racing details. I've followed along for a while, but never knew what was involved with your Mustang.