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Garage Renovation Project

spylab

Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2008
Messages
6
Here are a few photos and a little blurb about my project. Not as crazy as some on this site, but pretty work-intensive:

BEFORE (Spring 2008):

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gar-b-2.jpg




AFTER (November 2008):

gar-a-1.jpg


gar-a-2.jpg


gar-a-3.jpg


gar-a-4.jpg



SOME of the project components:
-Walls to bare studs, new electric, new sheetrock
-Full slatwall installed for tons of tool hanging room
-Partial ceiling overhangs for storage
-Fresh paint everywhere (including ceiling!)
-Jackhammered original floor, poured new concrete, polyamide epoxy coating
-Custom work bench, built from scratch
-Brand new windows
-Cabinetry and shelving units from IKEA
-Fully integrated stereo and computer components (iMac coming after money opens up)
-Tons and tons and tons of new power tools and other tools/accessories



Yeah, I am gloating, but I deserve it. Besides hanging some of the sheetrock and digging up the old floor, I did this entire project solo over the course of the last 7 months. Every last detail is considered for function and ease of use, and once the final bits are done and installed over the winter I can't wait to basically live out here next summer.


Mike
 
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bluesman2a

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Aug 16, 2005
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Location
Atlanta, Ga.
questions about your slatwall...
Where did you find it?
What is it made of? I've seen PVC and wood-product versions.
Are you happy with it?
 
OP
S

spylab

Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2008
Messages
6
Thanks, folks.

I got the slatwall at Store Supply Warehouse (http://storesupply.com/c-711-slatwall-panels.aspx) for around $44 per 4x8 sheet. The white vinyl inserts were $6 a roll and each roll filled one panel with a little left over. The hooks were dirt cheap. I went out to pick the panels up in person at the Harrisburg, PA facility, though shipping was an option for a boatload of extra cash.


The panels are a high density fiberboard with a melamine finish (though you can order them with a wood veneer or primed). I, personally, am in love with the slatwall as opposed to peg hooks. I can configure my tools freely, and whereas a heavy item on a peg hooks can 'pull out' the holes over time, the slats never gap or open up (this is written from my using slatwall in our shop's showroom area). Definitely a great and wortwhile investment.
 

Jayhogy

Member
Joined
May 14, 2008
Messages
7
Sorry, I did not read your earlier reply. Store Supply used to be one of our distributors to the retail market in the midwest. Menards now stocks our product (white) in all of their 225 stores in the Wall Covering department. Hooks, baskets, brackets in stock also.

Jay Hogfeldt
Wind Mill Slatwall - Garageescape
 
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spylab

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Joined
Nov 6, 2008
Messages
6
Very nice! What did you do for audio components. I dont see speakers.

Pair of Sony bookshelves installed in the back of the ceiling overhang. Terk FMPRO mounted to the ceiling beams between the speakers. Wiring all run through the walls to a pair of speaker outlets and a coax outlet behind the tall cabinets. Receiver in the right side of the lower cabinet with an output jack for an iPod right now.

In the spring I plan on putting an iMac out there and running it WiFi to my music collection on the Time Capsule in the kitchen. Should be awesome, and most importantly, invisible!
 
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spylab

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Joined
Nov 6, 2008
Messages
6
That slatwall looks great.... Do any big boxstore's carry them? I'm guessing it's not practical buying them and having them shipped.

I do recall seeing smaller 2'x4' panels at Depot; however, they are not nearly as cost effective - in fact, I think the cost of all the 2x4s from HD would be considerably more than the purchase and shipment of the 4x8s from a direct warehouse...
 

KnightFire

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Joined
Jul 24, 2007
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1,786
Location
WV
VERY clean, nicely thought out, and superbly executed.

Kudos to you sir.
 

stioc

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Joined
May 2, 2005
Messages
1,317
Location
SoCal
Wow, that's gorgeous. The difference between old and new is unbelieveable.

Tell us more about what you used like those cabinets with see through doors, the work bench, the flooring etc.
 
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spylab

Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2008
Messages
6
Tell us more about what you used like those cabinets with see through doors, the work bench, the flooring etc.

I'd be glad to, Russell.

FLOORING
After a 45 day cure period on the new concrete, I began with a Benjamin Moore M85 Concrete Etch to give some 'bite' to the brand new, smooth as glass concrete. I used the M83 emulsifier to stop the etching process and effectively make the concrete as pure as possible for the epoxy. After a bit of research, I opted for Benjamin Moore's M36 & M37 two-part polyamide epoxy coating in Platinum Grey. Apparently this stuff is rarely used in residential applications, but I wanted something with phenomenal abrasion and impact resistance. The cement retainer walls were painted in a Benjamin Moore Super Spec paint to match.

CABINETRY
All the white cabinetry is from IKEA. Clockwise from left, the lower cabinets are IKEA Aspvik with a fantastic 29.5" working height for hunching over detailed projects. I affixed indoor/outdoor carpet to the tops of these so I could work on chrome pieces or other delicate parts with no fear of scratching.

The tall cases are IKEA Billy bookcases with Billy Byom glass doors. The broom cabinet I had to modify, since the structure system of them includes a fixed shelf dead center. I left this out and instead built a bracing system on the back for stability.

The cabinet over the workbench is storage for spray paint. It's a combination of different IKEA kitchen cabinetry pieces and only cost me about $35 or $40 all told. I custom built 3.5" square cube shelves for the inside so I could store all the paints with the caps out for easy visibility and access.


WORKBENCH
I had NEVER built a workbench, or anything even remotely close, in my life (still a young buck at only 26 years old). I did a few rough scale drawings in Adobe Illustrator and just went to town. Began with a 2x6" brace secured to the wall, then built out from there with 2x4s. The sides and doors were cut from .75" oak plywood on our panel saw at work, which saved a ton of headaches with straight cuts. Once the framework was done, I used a Gliddan Gripper primer and Behr paint system to dress everything up. Working height is 36". Depth is 30". The back side is 105" from wall to edge, and the right side is 147" from wall to edge. Plenty of room!

As for the bench top, I wanted it to be as functional as humanly possible. I started with regular 2"x8" doug fir from the lumber yard (trying to keep costs down a little). My buddy brought his bench planar over and we stripped about 3/32" off each board for a phenomenally smooth and even work surface. I used 3 coats of Helmsman clear polyurethane to protect the boards from soaking up any oils or liquids that might get spilled. Not bad for a first try, I'd say.

One last note is the backing panel. I cut 8.5" high strips of .040 gauge aluminum and used a VHB double-stick tape to affix them to the wall prior to installing the bench top. This should hopefully prevent sending anything sharp right through the wall if the situation arises.


ELECTRIC
The existing electric was shared on a circuit with the breezeway and was constantly being tripped or was downright scary (there were only two boxes in the garage). I re-ran all brand new Romex and put each outlet (now four 110v) on its own breaker. Also ran a 220 line for a welder, but waiting on some extra cash to pick up something nice, after which I will install the outlet (right now it's the blank plate on the back wall, above where the compressor plugs in).


ENTERTAINMENT
I gave a blurb a few posts up, but for those looking for ideas let me give you the rundown. My best friend is an installer for high-dollar home theaters, so I had him 'lend' me some supplies and show me some tricks of running all the necessary wiring. Behind the two tall cabinets are three wall plates; one is a speaker jack, which runs through a trough behind the base molding and up to the ceiling overhang, where a pair of bookshelf speakers are tucked away. The second is another speaker jack, which runs outside the back and caps off for now. Next spring I plan to install a pair of outdoor speakers against the house directed into the backyard for when we have social gatherings, or are just relaxing out back. The third is a coax jack which follows the same trough and runs to a Terk FMPRO power antenna mounted to the ceiling beams between the speakers, again completely tucked away. The goal was to have a simple and good sounding stereo system, without any visible wires or components cluttering up the useful space.

OTHER NOTES (SLIGHTLY LESS VERBOSE)
The bike racks are Sports Solutions BUA Solo II wall racks, which worked great because the arms can be adjusted independently, allowing me to pitch the two road bikes at an angle so they fit in the space and were easily accessible. I decided to leave the four mountain bikes out back in the shed, since they are usually covered in mud or dust anyway.

A couple of 24" towel racks sunk in with heavy duty mollies made for GREAT spray bottle storage on a small budget.

The shelf over the toolboxes is an IKEA Lack. I cut a few 4" strips of Lexan down and affixed them to the edges to prevent anything falling out. Lord knows, when I've got something good clamped in the vise with the Sawz-All going, pretty much EVERYTHING wants to rattle.

And a last note, I'll never be able to 'justify' the decision, but I painted the entire ceiling a royal blue (it was just bare wood prior). I invested in a pretty nice Wagner Paint Crew XTRA spray system and masked the heck out of the garage. The ceiling was actually my first step after ripping out the old wood panel walls, since I KNEW it would be a total mess. Boy was I right!

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