Garage shelves from ceiling

[chefebe]

I've got a double-long garage with ~12' ceilings and I want to add storage shelves without beams coming to the floor. I initially considered a loft but I have a window that makes it awkward. So my plan is shelving along two sides and above the window in the back (pictures attached).

The side shelves are 12' x 4'. I plan to use 2x4's to create the box with 1/2" or 3/4" plywood on top and bottom (maybe drywall on the bottom...). I'd like to put lights under one side where I'll have the workbench. (example)

Questions (I may not even be asking the right ones):
- Should I use pine for lighter weight (example).
- How should I secure it to the ceiling? 2x4 with angle brackets (example) or ... ? I'd like it to look more built-in that just the metal cages (example)
- The master bedroom is directly above the garage. Can I assume that I can hang 1000+lb from the ceiling for each shelf?

Any other suggestions welcome from the experts!

 

[bdamico]

search for soffit--lots of threads and ideas of how to build it (for instance, cabinets look better than shelves). and i don't think anyone will tell you to hang 1000 pounds without talking to a structural engineer

 

[jeff000]

This is what I did. It's all unistrut and ready rod.

The wall brackets alone can support well over my 150lbs, and the rods from the ceiling can support well over my 150lbs too. So 900lbs should be no problem, only problem is that it means you have to lift 900lbs worth of **** up there.

 

[chefebe]

bdamico -- you set a pretty high standard. I noticed you used no metal brackets, just 2x4 screwed to the ceiling. And you abandoned the 2x4's at the ceiling going front to back after your first section and just ran a piece along the front and back (pic). Looks great. Your structure has got to be a couple 100lbs empty.

Jef000 -- now that's my style I think my wife would rather I do that because I wouldn't spend the next 2 weeks in the garage. But now bdamico has me wishing...

 

[mustanginky]

Subd for info

 

[bdamico]

bdamico -- you set a pretty high standard. I noticed you used no metal brackets, just 2x4 screwed to the ceiling. And you abandoned the 2x4's at the ceiling going front to back after your first section and just ran a piece along the front and back (pic). Looks great. Your structure has got to be a couple 100lbs empty.

Jef000 -- now that's my style I think my wife would rather I do that because I wouldn't spend the next 2 weeks in the garage. But now bdamico has me wishing...

don't be misled-- those are really big long lags in the ceiling and it is tied to cinder block walls with plenty of anchors and lags

 

[kwright]

I did something similar with Unistrut. I have to confess, the original idea was not mine, I've seen this approach used before in several places, including on GJ. I want to give credit where credit is due.

Here's a little more info from my blog.

http://www.wrightwayrestorations.com/?p=403

 

[jeff000]

Jef000 -- now that's my style I think my wife would rather I do that because I wouldn't spend the next 2 weeks in the garage. But now bdamico has me wishing...

Thanks,
It was simple, inexpensive and not going anywhere.

I would have loved to build cabinets like bdamico and others, but the cost is just more than I am willing to spend right now when it came down to it.

I built other shelves from the strut too.

These are 2' out from the wall, and even at the 2' point don't move with my weight hanging off it.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8102/8636455706_c3ab5cd862_c.jpg
Could probably store engine blocks on the shelves.

And these are shorter 1' shelves, using a slightly different 90 piece.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8543/8635350507_e28060d6c4_c.jpg

Would support the 2' shelf just as well as the other way I used
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8117/8635357985_3161ab52e0_c.jpg


As much as I wanted my garage to be showroom quality, I really need it to store stuff first. lol.

 

[Zick]

Another vote for Unistrut!

 

[JimVonBaden]

How I did it! Inexpensive and strong!

Jim

 

[regguy1]

Here's my soffit storage build thread: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=65557

See more photos and videos here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140674

 

[Walty]

Why over complicate it? I just attached the frame to the wall studs using lags and then used heavy chain and a couple eyebolts in the rafters to attach the front.

 

[Bumknee]

A plywood box connected to the wall with a french cleat, and a lag bolt into the ceiling joist will support an amazing amount of weight.

 

[chefebe]

Thanks for all the comments and pics. I love the simplicity of the unistrut but I'm sold on the finished look of the soffit. I think I'll tackle that.

The main question is how to attach to the ceiling on the outside edge. Looking at examples on here:
regguy1 used small angle iron to attach his vertical 2x6 (?) to the ceiling
bdamico and XcYZ appear to have a 2x4 run the whole length and then screwed (?) the vertical 2x4's into the side of that.

JimVonBaden, thanks for the pictures. How did you tie into the ceiling on the outer edge? Did you cut the drywall and screw directly into the beams above? Also, I only see 2 supports on the whole shelf. Is it stable?

Thanks again for all the comments. A great forum.

 

[black-c5]

I used plastic coated wire shelving so that I could see stuff that slides to the back, installed it on a 2X2 frame supported by cable to the ceiling, or 2x2 attached to wall for the back when installed along the wall.

 

[bdamico]

Thanks for all the comments and pics. I love the simplicity of the unistrut but I'm sold on the finished look of the soffit. I think I'll tackle that.

The main question is how to attach to the ceiling on the outside edge. Looking at examples on here:
regguy1 used small angle iron to attach his vertical 2x6 (?) to the ceiling
bdamico and XcYZ appear to have a 2x4 run the whole length and then screwed (?) the vertical 2x4's into the side of that.

JimVonBaden, thanks for the pictures. How did you tie into the ceiling on the outer edge? Did you cut the drywall and screw directly into the beams above? Also, I only see 2 supports on the whole shelf. Is it stable?

Thanks again for all the comments. A great forum.

I think the first thing you need to do is find out where your rafters or trusses or whatever are. Do they run parallel or perp to the walls you're gonna put your shelves on. I don't think there is any real science to attaching them: several ways will be ok depending on whether you go unistrut or superstrut or 2x4 construction.

 

[JimVonBaden]

JimVonBaden, thanks for the pictures. How did you tie into the ceiling on the outer edge? Did you cut the drywall and screw directly into the beams above? Also, I only see 2 supports on the whole shelf. Is it stable?

Thanks again for all the comments. A great forum.

You are correct. Just cut a hole in the drywall and tie into a rafter.

The strength of mine is in the construction. My brother and I hung on mine about 5' from the ceiling tie before we put the tie in, and it was plenty strong. We added the tie so those two corners wouldn't late sag. There is very little pull on them. I like this method because you do not have a bunch of verticle supports in the way.

Jim

 

[JimVonBaden]

In my current garage:

Strong enough for most gear, but not as strong as my other one in my old garage. I tied each support and rack holder, into a wall stud.

Jim

 

[tpizza01]

Another vote for Unistrut!

Any specs on this? I am looking to do somethign similar over my garage door. Looking at the wood you have tied into the wall there, it looks as though you have the mesh just resting on it? or is it tacked in somehow. I am also doing a span of about 18 feet I think it is, so I will have side supports on the wall also (like your wood tie-in). Also, I can't see it, but do you have any other cross support to handle the weight? I see the channel, the rods, the 2x4, and the mesh, but I don't see any other floor support. I suppoose the mesh is pretty strong also, but I want to make sure I can handle a bit. I'm thinking 1000# capacity. Thoughts?

 

[akdiesel]

Any specs on this? I am looking to do somethign similar over my garage door. Looking at the wood you have tied into the wall there, it looks as though you have the mesh just resting on it? or is it tacked in somehow. I am also doing a span of about 18 feet I think it is, so I will have side supports on the wall also (like your wood tie-in). Also, I can't see it, but do you have any other cross support to handle the weight? I see the channel, the rods, the 2x4, and the mesh, but I don't see any other floor support. I suppoose the mesh is pretty strong also, but I want to make sure I can handle a bit. I'm thinking 1000# capacity. Thoughts?

tpizza01

The Strut will be able to support that load no problem evenly distributed. It is the rafters and the attachment source I would be worried about. For an 18' span with 1000 lbs even distributed, that puts it at approx 55 lbs every foot. If that is the case then things should be fine but just remember not to load most of the weight into one centrilized spot.

 

[Zick]

Any specs on this? I am looking to do somethign similar over my garage door. Looking at the wood you have tied into the wall there, it looks as though you have the mesh just resting on it? or is it tacked in somehow. I am also doing a span of about 18 feet I think it is, so I will have side supports on the wall also (like your wood tie-in). Also, I can't see it, but do you have any other cross support to handle the weight? I see the channel, the rods, the 2x4, and the mesh, but I don't see any other floor support. I suppoose the mesh is pretty strong also, but I want to make sure I can handle a bit. I'm thinking 1000# capacity. Thoughts?

The mesh is secured to the wood ledger in the back w/ screws and also to the Unistrut (you can see the bolts sticking down in the pictures)
There are no cross supports under the mesh, it is fairly strong.
The mesh was bought from Menards and has a 500# rating per panel.
http://www.menards.com/main/storage...arage-racking-wire-shelf/p-1469454-c-9540.htm

 

[jlckmj]

Here is my version of the soffit cabinets, they run the entire length (36ft) of my garage along both walls.

Here is a link to how the cabinets were assembled
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=198872

Jim

 

[HotrodHR]

Keep simple... mine are similar to "jlckmj"

I used 2x4's running the length of the ceiling to attach 2x6 boards that hang down and attach to front of shelves. Built shelves by ripping 4x8 sheets of OSB lengthwise for shelf and built 2x4 frame. Mark a level line at desired height and attach shelves to wall into studs...

tracks for sliding doors were made by running 1x2 through table saw to make grooves. The tracks for the top need to be deeper to allow you to push door up into them and drop down and ride in the bottom track.

The taller shelves in the pics are in my shop (12' ceilings), the shorter are in my wife's garage...

The benefit of doors is that you can hide all the junk...

 

[LX-Markham]

The Strut will be able to support that load no problem evenly distributed. It is the rafters and the attachment source I would be worried about.

This is what people need to be mindful of. All these shelves look real sturdy, and I especially like the uni-strut ones, but it will all be for not if the structure above can't accept the additional load. Remember, those rafters or joists are already taking roof load (or floor load).

 

[tpizza01]

tpizza01

The Strut will be able to support that load no problem evenly distributed. It is the rafters and the attachment source I would be worried about. For an 18' span with 1000 lbs even distributed, that puts it at approx 55 lbs every foot. If that is the case then things should be fine but just remember not to load most of the weight into one centrilized spot.

Thanks! I don't plan on putting a whole lot up there - probably not much more than what you have up there right now. Lots of cardboard and a few boxes and stuff, but I will definitely be distributing it along the length.

How did you attach the channel to the ceiling? And what is the mesh material?

 

[tpizza01]

The mesh is secured to the wood ledger in the back w/ screws and also to the Unistrut (you can see the bolts sticking down in the pictures)
There are no cross supports under the mesh, it is fairly strong.
The mesh was bought from Menards and has a 500# rating per panel.
http://www.menards.com/main/storage...arage-racking-wire-shelf/p-1469454-c-9540.htm

Sorry - I am just now seeing this. Seems like some pretty strong stuff! Thanks again!

 

[tpizza01]

this is the channel I will be using from Home Depot:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Superstr...Gold-Galvanized-ZB1400HS-10/100164315?N=5yc1v

It comes in 10 foot lengths so I think I might be trimming them down to do two separate sections. This will lighten the load on the joists some.
Was wondering what you used to tie into the joists also?

Anyway, I am excited to start this project! I will have to post pics when done

 

[Zick]

That's pretty much the same unistrut I bought from Menards.
I used Lag bolts to attach everything.

 

[akdiesel]

this is the channel I will be using from Home Depot:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Superstr...Gold-Galvanized-ZB1400HS-10/100164315?N=5yc1v

It comes in 10 foot lengths so I think I might be trimming them down to do two separate sections. This will lighten the load on the joists some.
Was wondering what you used to tie into the joists also?

Anyway, I am excited to start this project! I will have to post pics when done

tpizza01

That is the 7/8" strut and if I remember correctly when I got mine from HD or Lowes the 7/8 strut is 14 gauge and the 1 /58" strut is 12 gauge. Either one will work for most cases though.
I used 3/8" x 2" lag bolts supported on every truss. If you span a single truss I would go every two feet as well but It may be better to use some 2x4 to connect the trusses on either side to tie them into the singe truss for addtional support. It sounds like more work to use strut in that case but I would not feel comfortable supporting a load on one truss for a 10' span or more.
I hope I did not confuse things.

 

[MikeYC]

Welcome to the GJ!!! Now get back to Work!!!

this is the channel I will be using from Home Depot:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Superstr...Gold-Galvanized-ZB1400HS-10/100164315?N=5yc1v

It comes in 10 foot lengths so I think I might be trimming them down to do two separate sections. This will lighten the load on the joists some.
Was wondering what you used to tie into the joists also?

Anyway, I am excited to start this project! I will have to post pics when done

 

[tpizza01]

Welcome to the GJ!!! Now get back to Work!!!

You should be helping me with this, Mike!!! lol

 

[tpizza01]

tpizza01
If you span a single truss I would go every two feet as well but It may be better to use some 2x4 to connect the trusses on either side to tie them into the singe truss for addtional support. It sounds like more work to use strut in that case but I would not feel comfortable supporting a load on one truss for a 10' span or more.
I hope I did not confuse things.

The strut will run perpendicular to my joists. It is also in a section of the garage where there is nothing above (no house) to support, so the joists should be able to handle just about anything. So I am not connecting to just one truss. I forget the width of the garage but I might not be able to use two 10Ft pieces to go the span. I was thinkning I might have to cut htem down to about 8ft each and then just do two shelves. This would actually add a little more capacity to it. Anyway, Thanks for your help - good stuff

 

[alpinewhite]

I don't mean to be a soup nazi but when you guys refer to "rafters", I think you really mean "ceiling joists". "Rafters" are the sloped members that hold the actual roofing (plywood and tiles). "Ceiling joists" are horizontal members where ceiling drywall is screwed into. Ceiling joists also prevent the walls from spreading apart.

"Party on, Garth".

 

[djsadias]

Thanks,
It was simple, inexpensive and not going anywhere.

I would have loved to build cabinets like bdamico and others, but the cost is just more than I am willing to spend right now when it came down to it.

I built other shelves from the strut too.

These are 2' out from the wall, and even at the 2' point don't move with my weight hanging off it.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8102/8636455706_c3ab5cd862_c.jpg
Could probably store engine blocks on the shelves.

And these are shorter 1' shelves, using a slightly different 90 piece.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8543/8635350507_e28060d6c4_c.jpg

Would support the 2' shelf just as well as the other way I used
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8117/8635357985_3161ab52e0_c.jpg


As much as I wanted my garage to be showroom quality, I really need it to store stuff first. lol.

Hey Jeff,

Were can I find those brackets for the unistrut?
I am going to copy your idea! if its ok with you...

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Modular ceiling racks: http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/legacy-garage-rack-4-x-8-p-273.html

 

[jeff000]

Hey Jeff,

Were can I find those brackets for the unistrut?
I am going to copy your idea! if its ok with you...

Any electrical wholesaler will have them in stock

 

[pdude]

Thanks,
It was simple, inexpensive and not going anywhere.

I would have loved to build cabinets like bdamico and others, but the cost is just more than I am willing to spend right now when it came down to it.

I built other shelves from the strut too.

These are 2' out from the wall, and even at the 2' point don't move with my weight hanging off it.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8102/8636455706_c3ab5cd862_c.jpg
Could probably store engine blocks on the shelves.

And these are shorter 1' shelves, using a slightly different 90 piece.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8543/8635350507_e28060d6c4_c.jpg

Would support the 2' shelf just as well as the other way I used
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8117/8635357985_3161ab52e0_c.jpg


As much as I wanted my garage to be showroom quality, I really need it to store stuff first. lol.

I know this is an old thread, but do you think any of your three brackets would support a 3' - 3.5' shelf depth?

 

[DGersic]

I know this is an old thread, but do you think any of your three brackets would support a 3' - 3.5' shelf depth?

I built an L shaped desk for my office that’s about 24” deep, 10’ long on one wall, 6’ on the other, with a deep 45* corner. It’s two layers of 3/4 particle board, glued and screwed together, then topped with laminate and edged with wood trim. I used heavy duty shelf brackets from Menards, the largest ones they have, claim to support 500 lbs each. Like these:



Those are lagged to every stud. It’s rock solid, and I can walk on it (170 lbs) without it even thinking about moving.

A 3’ or 3 1/2’ shelf should be no big deal for these.



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