Garage Sink Grey Water Drain Hook Up?

[Red89gt]

When I had the concrete poured for my pole barn I had a 2" waste line put in exiting out the back of the shop about 15" from the shop wall. I picked up a stainless steel sink from a local bakery that closed. Sink is just to wash hands before going into house, filling dog water bowl and occasionally washing items. No heavy use.

I'm not cheap I just don't want to waste money putting in parts over complicating things if I don't need to. The 2" pipe sticks up out of the floor. Is just putting 45's and connecting the sink drain to the waste line sufficient? Or do I need to put in a p trap and air vent?

This is just the sink grey water occasional use going out to the yard. I live in the sticks on a 6 acre lot. Going to put a splitter on the hydrant with one side feeding the garden hose and the other leg feeding the sink.

 

[bluedog225]

I’d put a p-trap in for two reasons. You may drop something down there you want to retrieve. And it will keep bugs, mice, and rats from crawling up the pipe into your shop. I‘d probably extend the other end out a little ways from the foundation into a gavel filled hole. Make sure it’s not clay so it doesn’t hold water and bring mosquitoes.

wish I’d been smart enough to put in something like that.

 

[Red89gt]

Any idea if I put a p trap if I need to put a vent on the line too then?

 

[SouthernIllinois]

I have almost the exact same set-up.
I went ahead and put a P-trap and a vent up into the attic.
My drain line is tied in with another deep sink on the patio and a beer keg urinal and empties down a hill, well behind the shed.

 

[Codyboy]

I would install a trap and also install a vent type fitting on the end of pipe out in the yard to keep critters out of it.

ETA
Yes. Like above pic with the landscape cap on the end.

 

[Red89gt]

You guys rock, thank you for the pic's and guidance.

I couldn't find anything to fit on end of the 2" pvc exit behind the shop so I put a cap on it for now and drilled a bunch of holes in it.
I will have to see if they make those baskets you have that fit on 2". You have correct name for those green baskets so I can search better?

Off to Lowes to buy fittings and see what I can do. I'll post a pic when completed.

 

[SouthernIllinois]

You guys rock, thank you for the pic's and guidance.

I couldn't find anything to fit on end of the 2" pvc exit behind the shop so I put a cap on it for now and drilled a bunch of holes in it.
I will have to see if they make those baskets you have that fit on 2". You have correct name for those green baskets so I can search better?

Off to Lowes to buy fittings and see what I can do. I'll post a pic when completed.

I got them at Menards. Looks like they only come in 3" and 4".
Maybe use a reducer?



I did find a couple 2" ones online.

Here is one.

NDS 270 Atrium HDPE 2" Dia. Grate

Large project? Request a Quote Ideal for yard area drains to collect surface water while minimizing the amount of debris entering the system. Also works great for adding your own bottom outlet into your Mini Channel drain system. Features Flat top structural foam Polyolefin atrium grate with UV...

trenchdraingrates.com

 

[CraigStu]

You may be able to find a step union (wrong term I know) to adapt a basket to your 2" pvc.

 

[Codyboy]

You guys rock, thank you for the pic's and guidance.

I couldn't find anything to fit on end of the 2" pvc exit behind the shop so I put a cap on it for now and drilled a bunch of holes in it.
I will have to see if they make those baskets you have that fit on 2". You have correct name for those green baskets so I can search better?

Off to Lowes to buy fittings and see what I can do. I'll post a pic when completed.

I would just run it like that.
There's nothing special about the green basket.
Also they probably won't fit sch 40 anyway. I think they're for sdr pipe or whatever that thin stuff is.
Save your money. But I would make sure there is a hole in the cap you drilled at 6 o'clock.

 

[Codyboy]

Actually I'm about to do this with a 3inch from the shop. It only has a shower and toilet (pee pee only for wife until septic is installed) on it.

Did not even think about just using a cap and drilling holes.
Thats why I suggested a vent cap ( not same as pictured above).
Now I know what I'll do.
It'll just be temporary until septic is installed when house is built.
Eta has a sink too

 

[bluedog225]

And I think you do need the air admittance valve. Else the water going out will **** the p-trap water out.

 

[CraigStu]

Wouldn't you need to have the pipe after the p trap completely filled for it to **** water? I am thinking from the intended use there will be just a small amount in the drain at any given time.

 

[Zugec]

You should to at least trap it - even for light us. Without trapping it, gases and critters could come right back up the line and the smell will make you regret not doing it. A simple P-trap under the sink is good insurance.

And for venting, it isn't critical for light gray water usage. However, AAV wouldn't be bad if you want extra insurance.

 

[Red89gt]

Thank you All!

 

[larry_g]

For my sink I ran the outside drain line into about a 6 foot long section of perf pipe buried in the dirt. Worked that way for years with no problems. No drainage out to above ground.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[SouthernIllinois]

 

[SouthernIllinois]

 

[Skooterj]

Does anyone actually remove the screen during freezing temps?

 

[CraigStu]

I like the idea of burying the outlet in some stones. A friend had a friend who ran all his grey water from house out and 100ft away. But it exited the ground part way down a hill in the woods. My friend said that after 15 yrs that area was a gross disgusting mess. Realizing the OP's volume will be way, way less than a house, it would still be nice to never see the stuff.

 

[SouthernIllinois]

IDK - I just saw that at Menards this morning. The OP had mentioned something that would fit 2" PVC and I thought of him when I saw this.

 

[bluedog225]

Wouldn't you need to have the pipe after the p trap completely filled for it to **** water? I am thinking from the intended use there will be just a small amount in the drain at any given time.

Probably ok. Aav is easy. Plumbing math is hard.

 

[Codyboy]

I got that one for 3". Finally got done today.

 

[Red89gt]

Hooked up the drain today and mounted my $40 market place sink to the wall best as I could. Pretty sure spent more on stuff to hook up the sink thank the cost of the sink. I have metal siding in my barn same as outside so not flat and have to try and hit purlins I can no longer see, fun. Feels sturdy. Plumbing not my strong suit, thank god for google images of other's work.

2" waste line in slab out the back of the barn. 1.5" stack to AAV vent & 1.5" drain pipe/P-trap to bottom of the sink. Probably all overkill but good project and from what I can tell done correctly. Union plumber buddy coming down to visit in few weeks if he doesn't like he will correct in 10 minutes what took me hours lol.

I ordered the wrong adapters for the fixture lines. Idea is to put hot and cold line into a "Y" and then run a line over the the hydrant and have a splitter. One side feeds garden hose and other feeds sink.

 

[Codyboy]

I'm not a plumber either but shouldn't the top of the vent be higher or at least equal to the water level in a full sink? At least higher than the drain?
Otherwise looks good!

ETA
On finding the purlins/girts..
I would say they are where the screws are holding the steel siding on.

 

[larry4406]

I'm not a plumber either but shouldn't the top of the vent be higher or at least equal to the water level in a full sink? At least higher than the drain?
Otherwise looks good!

ETA
On finding the purlins/girts..
I would say they are where the screws are holding the steel siding on.

I was thinking the same, but read this and decided to not comment.

CodeNotes: Installation of Air Admittance Valves - ICC

This International Code Council CodeNotes resource provides information on the installation of air admittance valves.

www.iccsafe.org

 

[Red89gt]

4" minimum above the drain branch tube was the instructions.
I have mine at approximately 5" hopefully I did not misinterpret.

 

[Red89gt]

Yeah screws hit purlins I get that but is it dead center, not likely.
Screws were below the conduit I had to be above, margin of error was shrinking.
I had enough that I must have caught the edge because I was able to get screws for back board to grab firmly.

 

[Red89gt]

I do appreciate all the help, definitely on the struggle bus.
Waste line had a clog that even though I flushed line with garden hose before assembly and had water flow something in there collected after assembly and wadded up. I guess this is how I learn new stuff I never somehow had to do from scratch in 53 years of home ownership.

 

[Red89gt]

IDK - I just saw that at Menards this morning. The OP had mentioned something that would fit 2" PVC and I thought of him when I saw this.

Just caught your signature line, impressive! I had 10 years Navy, hindsight; I never should have gotten out and got a commission after college, I loved it. Oh well, everything worked out. Only close late friend I kept in touch with a lot of years was a Senior Chief, much respect.

 

[Codyboy]

Yeah screws hit purlins I get that but is it dead center, not likely.
Screws were below the conduit I had to be above, margin of error was shrinking.
I had enough that I must have caught the edge because I was able to get screws for back board to grab firmly.

The screws should be about dead center of the girts.
When they put my building together I was amazed at how perfectly straight the screws were on multiple panels.
I thought , "man those guys can see through steel".
Then I found out the truth after a little observation.
They predrill the panels . Stack several together line up the ends , measure and drill.
As long as your building is square and plumb (girts and purlins true) the screws will be right on center. (Well if the guy in the air and guy on the ground can use a tape measure properly)

 

[toot88]

If your garage is not heated during the winter, you may have problems with the water in the P trap freezing. Also, I can't see how you have the frost proof hydrant connected to the sink faucet, but if it is freezing inside the garage, the hydrant needs to be able to drain back, i.e. vented, when closed. If it can't drain back, it is no longer frost proof.

When I built my garage, back in 1987, I installed a similar utility sink. My drain is 2" straight through the floor, out under the footing, a couple feet away from the building, then 4" DWV follows the side of the building for about 35' where it exits out the side of a bank to the rear. There is no P-trap (or S-trap) although the garage is now heated. No living creatures larger than insects have yet made it into the garage in 38 years (I do keep traps set jic). The drain line has never plugged or had to be cleaned out although I do occasionally flush it thoroughly. I do usually keep a drain strainer screen in the sink. For water, I ran 2 separate buried lines from the house, one to a frost proof hydrant positioned over the sink, and the other to the faucet valve on the sink. The faucet line gets shut off and drained in the winter. The frost proof hydrant has a line from its drain weep hole extending out under and away from the building footing 2-3 feet and set in pea gravel.

38 years and never any problems, or odors, with not having a P trap. I might expect odors if it was going into a septic system or a city sewer, but it's just a pipe open at both ends.

As for insects coming up the drain(s) I am normally not greeted with bugs in the sink when I wash my hands. If bugs want in, I have two 10x9 and one 12x13 doors plus 3 entry doors so insects have no trouble finding a way in.

 

[Red89gt]

I won't have the splitter on the hydrant hooked up from December to March most likely as soon as first freezing weather starts.
P trap probably a waste on this application and might change to just angled drain to waste line. Then I don't have worry about it freezing. Plumber friend said I don't need it as well.
Anything ever goes down the sink I can collect it where it exits out back. I have a cover on the outside drain to hopefully keep out rodents and snakes.

 

[toot88]

To add to my earlier comments, part of my drain having been resistant to mice entry for the past 38 years may be that the vertical drop under the sink is at least 6'-7' to where the pipe makes a 90 to get under the footing. Also, my drain is self venting because the 1-1/2" sink drain immediately goes to 2" and that goes to 4" right after the 90 at the bottom of the drop. If you are running 2" all the way to your discharge, you probably do want to keep a vent at the end by your sink. The location of the airless vent shown in your photo is a problem as mentioned by others. That needs to be above the highest water level mark in the sink, or as high as achievable under the counter. Again, because I do not believe odor is an issue here, and if you are going to remove the trap due to freezing concerns anyway, I would skip the airless vent (I am not a fan of those, I tend to put those in the same category as duckbill drain traps) and just use an open vent, maybe a small 1/2" or 3/4" pvc pipe with a u-bend at the top to keep debris out. I probably would run it out from under the sink and run it up higher on the wall somewhere. I am not a plumber, just a retired mechanical engineer, i.e. I might understand flow dynamics, but I do not know plumbing code very well.

 

[Red89gt]

.Individual and branch-type valves need to be at least 4 inches (102 mm) above the horizontal branch drain or the trap it serves. Stack-type valves must be at least 6 inches (152 mm) above the flood level rim of the highest fixture being vented.

 

[Red89gt]

No more P trap no worries about freezing. Questioning myself since no leaks first try lol.

 

[Codyboy]

I would have left the p trap.
But enjoy your bugs and ants in the sink i guess.

Just curious of why you removed it?
Because of freezing maybe?
Wouldn't the expansion just rise and occupy the dead air space?
Idk. We don't really have freezing weather here much.
But a couple years or so ago we had below freezing for a week. The Texas Icepocalypse.
My outside sink had no issues with the p trap .

 

[Red89gt]

Just eliminate chance of freezing. I don’t think it was that high but now it’s non issue. If bugs become a huge issue I can always throw it back on. Bugs not much difference with bay doors open etc.