Garage stem walls - please help

[m237b]

Hello all,

Just finished my garage floor (epoxy+poly). Need to take care of the
stem walls now.

Two main questions:

1. What to use to seal the gap between the newly finished floor and the stem
walls, so it won't damage the epoxy/poly floor surface and at the same time
will be tight enough to be able to hose the garage floor.

2. What would be the best paint to use for the stem walls to make them look
some what as attractive as the epoxy floor ? Was thinking to epoxy coat
them too first, but doesn't look like an easy process for a vertical surface.
Currently it is painted with Behr exterior flat paint.



Thanks in advance.
Alex

 

[benwah]

Hello, m237b

1. Polyurethane caulking

2. Use the same system you used on your floor. It is unfortunate that you did not grind your wall and paint it when you did your floor. If you can finagle a grinder in there without damaging your floor coating go for it. Get as close as you can. Scrape the remaining Behr paint off. Apply your epoxy/flake/urethane system or just epoxy/urethane, the flake really isn't necessary. It's up to you. Hopefully you have some left over! Before coating be sure to clean out chine area with a vacuum, then caulk it up after it has cured.

This is the only method I am familiar with besides building a cove base or using some kind of tile.

 

[retfr8flyr]

I would put a couple coats of gray DryLok on it. The DryLok will keep moisture out and fill in some of those small holes and smooth out the stem wall surface. You can then just leave it or paint it with an enamel paint. When you get it the color you want put down some black plastic cove molding to blend the walls with the floor. Your never going to get Epoxy on those walls now, without messing up the floor.

 

[m237b]

Thanks benwah. I in fact did grind the stem walls together with grinding the floor. However painted them over before doing the floor to avoid any dust from them to reach the floor (as they are extremely porous). Going now with a grinder again would cause a lot of mess....was thinking may be I can power wash it. As you can see in a picture, the surface still very porous even after painted...there is no other way but removing the paint anyway ? ...how it is possible to apply epoxy on the vertical surface...it has to be taken out of the bucket to the surface after mixing, which means going to leak down to the floor from the wall...

 

[m237b]

@retfr8flyr ..I actually went to Home Hardware to get the DryLok, they in fact have only white colour, and as well insisted that it makes sense to apply only if I have moisture on my surface (which I don't)...hmm. So, putting DryLok over the paint I already have is not a problem I understand, no need to remove the paint then, correct ? Plastic cove molding you are talking about, how do you glue it to the floor ?

 

[retfr8flyr]

Yes you can put it over paint, DryLok goes on very thick so it covers up many small holes. You can get the new Designer series and it almost looks like Epoxy. http://www.drylok.com/formulas/designer-drylok/ The cove molding attaches to the base of the walls not the floor and just goes on with some adhesive. This is what I am talking about. http://www.homedepot.com/p/ROPPE-Bl...-Wall-Base-16-pc-Carton-H140LA5P100/100581171

 

[benwah]

Thanks benwah ...how it is possible to apply epoxy on the vertical surface...it has to be taken out of the bucket to the surface after mixing, which means going to leak down to the floor from the wall...

You would use a 4" paint roller.

As far as the porosity of the wall, if you wanted it smooth you would fill it with a surfacing epoxy. Since that Behr coating will not be removed I am afraid I do not have an answer for you, sorry. I would rather give no information at all rather than mislead you.

 

[m237b]

Yes you can put it over paint, DryLok goes on very thick so it covers up many small holes. You can get the new Designer series and it almost looks like Epoxy. http://www.drylok.com/formulas/designer-drylok/ The cove molding attaches to the base of the walls not the floor and just goes on with some adhesive. This is what I am talking about. http://www.homedepot.com/p/ROPPE-Bl...-Wall-Base-16-pc-Carton-H140LA5P100/100581171

Looks like none of these items available here in Canada. Only this one below is available in white:
http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/i...c/3-78L-Grey-Latex-Paint/_/N-ntloh/R-I1886178
I never seen my stem walls contain any moisture on them though, so how necessary to put DryLok then ? Can I smoothen the walls with something else before coating with enamel paint ?

 

[m237b]

You would use a 4" paint roller.

As far as the porosity of the wall, if you wanted it smooth you would fill it with a surfacing epoxy. Since that Behr coating will not be removed I am afraid I do not have an answer for you, sorry. I would rather give no information at all rather than mislead you.

Thanks benwah, I guess I'll go into painting with non-epoxy materials direction to avoid the mess of grinding the walls.

 

[retfr8flyr]

Isn't Home Hardware a Canadian company? http://www.homehardware.ca/en/cat/search/_/N-2pqfZ67l/Ne-67n/Ntk-All_EN?Ntt=Designer+DRYLOK

 

[m237b]

Thanks. Only via special order, they don't stock it in stores. Interestingly enough, it says surface should be free of paint before applying DryLok...hmm
as well spread is ~60sq.f/gallon...means minimum 2 gallons would be required

Isn't Home Hardware a Canadian company? http://www.homehardware.ca/en/cat/search/_/N-2pqfZ67l/Ne-67n/Ntk-All_EN?Ntt=Designer+DRYLOK

 

[kbench55]

m237b I used something like DryLok that I found at the local Home Depot. I am up here in Canada as well. Worked very well on my stem walls. I am trying to find what it is called. Below is a link to my garage floor install. In the pics you can see my stem walls and how nice the paint cover it. Filled in all the pores nicely.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=254243

 

[kbench55]

Found it. Should have at the local home depot.

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/watertite-mold-and-mildew-paint-37l/998218

 

[m237b]

Found it. Should have at the local home depot.

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/watertite-mold-and-mildew-paint-37l/998218

Thanks kbench55. I will probably go with UGL DryLok which was advised by retfr8flyr. Found it in HomeHardware...since two coatings will be required on two gallons will save a bit $$ comparing to the HD's one. It is grey colour as well which matches better my floor. The only concern was as per data sheet if it can be coated over the existing paint.....according to guys here it can but according to the manufacture it is not

Nicely tiled floor, btw

 

[kbench55]

Thanks kbench55. I will probably go with UGL DryLok which was advised by retfr8flyr. Found it in HomeHardware...since two coatings will be required on two gallons will save a bit $$ comparing to the HD's one. It is grey colour as well which matches better my floor. The only concern was as per data sheet if it can be coated over the existing paint.....according to guys here it can but according to the manufacture it is not

Nicely tiled floor, btw

No problem. I was able to apply to coats from the one can on my entire garage that is 22x22. It is also tintable, I can't remember if you can paint over existing paint though.

 

[retfr8flyr]

DryLok wants you to not us it over existing paint so that you get maximum penetration for water stoppage. You are not using it for that, just for looks, filling in and smoothing out the wall. It should go on fine over the flat paint you already have on the wall. If you are worried you can scuff up the walls lightly with some sandpaper or ScotchBrite pads just to get maximum adhesion but I don't think it's necessary.

The lower wall section, about 2 feet, in my garage is cinder block, with brick on the outside and I would get crystallization on the inside of the blocks, due to moisture seeping through the block and leaching out the salts in the concrete. When I did my garage last year, I used 2 coats of DryLok and then painted over that with the same Blue Semi-Gloss paint I used on the rest of the walls. Has worked perfect for me so far and we had a lot of rain last winter and this spring.

 

[m237b]

@retfr8flyr, thank you. Got convinced now, got the non-design version of grey DryLok and going to apply it today/tomorrow, then see how good/bad it looks and if not too good will apply Behr enamel paint over it. Will keep you posted on progress.

Thanks again for your help

 

[pauls340]

Don't know where you're located in Canada but hunt down a Construction Supply Co called Form & Build, they have a moisture curing, 100% solids, modified sillyl produt called CanSeal. It will outperform any polyurethane "caulk". It is not affected by any moisture in that joint. We will actually pre-spray the joint with water, apply then mist over the CanSeal to help it skim over faster. I used their non-sag gray in 9*F weather.

 

[m237b]

Don't know where you're located in Canada but hunt down a Construction Supply Co called Form & Build, they have a moisture curing, 100% solids, modified sillyl produt called CanSeal. It will outperform any polyurethane "caulk". It is not affected by any moisture in that joint. We will actually pre-spray the joint with water, apply then mist over the CanSeal to help it skim over faster. I used their non-sag gray in 9*F weather.

Thanks for the tip. I'm in Toronto area. Contacted the store, the only way to get it is to go to Mississauga or via their agent....will give it a try..thanks again

 

[m237b]

I would put a couple coats of gray DryLok on it. The DryLok will keep moisture out and fill in some of those small holes and smooth out the stem wall surface. You can then just leave it or paint it with an enamel paint. When you get it the color you want put down some black plastic cove molding to blend the walls with the floor. Your never going to get Epoxy on those walls now, without messing up the floor.

Just finished to coat with DryLok (3 coats). It did indeed smoothen the wall a bit, filling in some small pores (not the big ones though). The wall looks like a sand paper now, pretty rough surface and resembles stucco a bit. It has more civilized look obviously but probably has to be painted over. Any specific reason why enamel paint is to be used as per your suggestion above ?

 

[Shea]

Any specific reason why enamel paint is to be used as per your suggestion above ?

It can easily be color matched to your floor or wall colors.

 

[BabaGanoosh]

Can I get some clarification on this? I have not epoxied my floor yet. I would like the epoxy to go up the walls 4 inches, similar to a cove moulding. I can still grind the walls four inches up. Do I simply apply the primer, epoxy and sealer coats with a brush on the vertical surface or will it all run off? Does it make more sense to actually use a cove moulding after the epoxy floor is done. Does anyone have experience with this and advice to offer? Thanks,