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GARAGE TIPS and TRICKS - POST 'em!

wrenchr

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Michigan
if its in good shape, you should never turn down a free shelf

if you cant use it you can find someone who can

bob

This stuff is made out a 1/4 tubing, turn it upside down and you have a work bench!!
 
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Lugg_Nutt

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Apr 29, 2008
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Use Testor's model car paint ... paint each notch in your jack stands a different color ... a quick glance versus counting notches when trying to get a set level under a car
 

Lugg_Nutt

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Apr 29, 2008
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19
Dip your taps in axle grease before tapping a blind hole or in cases where metal chips can NOT get down into the area below (think spark plug holes on an assembled engine). The grease will capture and hold the chips until tap is backed out.
 

Lugg_Nutt

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Use pipe insulation on the bottom 2/3's of your hydraulic jack handle. Keeps the handle from banging up the side of whatever vehicle one may be working on when handle is in UPRIGHT position.
 

PAToyota

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Jan 20, 2006
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South Central Pennsylvania, USA
Use Testor's model car paint ... paint each notch in your jack stands a different color ... a quick glance versus counting notches when trying to get a set level under a car

Hey! That's a good one!

Use pipe insulation on the bottom 2/3's of your hydraulic jack handle. Keeps the handle from banging up the side of whatever vehicle one may be working on when handle is in UPRIGHT position.

Been doing that for years - if you use the armaflex type it has adhesive in the joint so that it doesn't come off as easily.
 

Moose-LandTran

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Mar 8, 2008
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The Brink of Insanity (England)
When replacing pads on wind-back calipers, use a flat-tip screwdriver to pull back the rubber boot on the piston, and spray a little WD-40 down there. this lets the piston spin easily within the rubber boot, preventing it from twisting and tearing.

one that's never let me down, when removing ball joints from hubs (from the steering rack and track rod) if the thread just spins when you're undoing the nut, use a trolley jack and place the "cup" under the ball joint, lift the hub 2-3" and it presses the taper into the hub, letting you undo the nut without the thread spinning.

for hub where the ball joint goes in from the top, i use a ball joing separator and turn it upside down and tighten it. this presses the taper into the hub, and the opening of the separator lets you undo the nut.

When undoing things like brake disk retaining screws that hold the disk onto the hub, use a hammer to tap the end of the screwdriver handle as you twist it. this prevents the screwdrivers from "camming out" and stripping the screw head. this also works on many screws with stripped heads.

sometimes when removing lug nuts they sieze, take a cheap socket (preferably an impact) and give it a few good hits with a club hammer. this disturbs the thread and "loosens" the nut for you to remove it.

Sometimes you're in an awkward place and cant get enough leverage on a wrench to turn a nut/bolt and can't get anything longer in there. use a prybar to lever against something and againts the wrench, this gives you a lot more leverage. (i do this when working on turbocharges with very limited space)

When removing hub nuts, most of the time if you don't have an impact gun and a compressor you can't get them off. let the tyre down a little, get the engine running and have someone apply the brakes. then put the ring end of a wrench on the hub nut and use a trolley jack to lift the open end. a 2-ton trolley jack and a foot-long wrench will be able to provide more leverage that the average guy ans a 2' breaker bar.
 

car99r

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Jun 7, 2008
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338
Location
Charleston, IL
I got tired of having a bag of floor dry in the way on the floor all the time. Bought one of those tin dog feeders at the farm supply store. It holds almost a whole bag of floor dry, mounts up on the wall, where its easy to reach. It has a trap door on top for filling it, and a trap door on the bottom that you push inwards, fill a scoop of floor dry, and run over to contain your spill. Much faster cleanup when its organized and easy to find.


I am trying picture what you are referring to here. Can you get a picture of it? How about a link to one online so I can figure out what I need to get. This sounds like a great tip since I work on motorcycles and always get some type of fluid ont he floor...
 

Bigger Hammer

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Jun 26, 2007
Messages
173
I was tired of searching for the shelving that was just what I needed so I built my own. Also, rather than leaving long length materials on the floor I built some cantilevered racking on the wall and in the loft above. I think I have roughly 1000' of various tubing on the end wall of my garage but it is only taking up about 12" of space out from the wall. Having that racking also limits what I can and do put on the floor anymore too.

Ask yourself how big of a bench you actually need? Most oversized benches just turn into glorified shelves. I tore mine off the wall and will be building 2 tables soon that will be on castors. One will be slightly longer and taller so that the smaller of the two will nest under the larger to save space when I'm not using them.
 

ZRX61

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Aug 15, 2006
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28,716
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Solar Blight Valley, SoCal
Garage carpets:
If you live near a venue where they hold trade shows, turn up the day after & you will find acres of abandoned carpets that the vendors used in their booths etc... A few years back I came away with about 800sq ft from the Colts Dome. The amount still there after I got my haul would carpet several thousand sq ft..
 

kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
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14,065
Ditto on the old carpeting.
I cut it just wide enough to catch all the stuff dripping off the cars in the winter.
Roll it up and dump it when it gets to looking too bad.
I don't feel bad about it. It was going to the dump anyway. It just made a little detour.
Depending on how sloppy a winter we have I might do it 3 or 4 time a winter.
 

stricht8

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Apr 20, 2008
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Your garage floor must look really nice!

Ditto on the old carpeting.
I cut it just wide enough to catch all the stuff dripping off the cars in the winter.
Roll it up and dump it when it gets to looking too bad.
I don't feel bad about it. It was going to the dump anyway. It just made a little detour.
Depending on how sloppy a winter we have I might do it 3 or 4 time a winter.
 

kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
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Well, better than it would otherwise.
I am not protecting a high buck floor like some of the ones you see around here.
Just keeping the slop from running into the corners.
I think I cut them into about 6 x 12 foot strips.
Or what ever is handy.
Since I don't care about color or texture, it can have a kind of "gypsy" look sometimes.
 
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e-tek

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Dec 19, 2007
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Saskatoon, SK
The carpet's a good idea. I ALWAYS put plastic sheets and then cardboard under ALL cars in my shop. It's been a year now and I have NO oil marks on it yet. (Gotta get it Epoxied soon though!)
 

nissan_crawler

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Jan 12, 2008
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9,638
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Wichita, KS
Use Testor's model car paint ... paint each notch in your jack stands a different color ... a quick glance versus counting notches when trying to get a set level under a car

So simple and handy. I feel like a ***** for not doing that. I might cheat and number it, but same principle.
 

jim bremner

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Mar 8, 2006
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30
Location
l.a
5 Gallon buckets from Home Depot and a lid will set you back $7 The Dog food buckets are $33

I have a large cookie sheet under my Vise and Grinder to help keep the cuttings from getting every where.:rocker:
 
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BD1

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Mar 18, 2007
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north side
boy, sure would be nice if you could build 12' walls! Big difference inside. good luck and welcome, bob
 

Brownsvillian

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Dec 10, 2011
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5
anyone else remove the locking bars from their top toolbox so you can pull the drawers out without lifting the lid? Home shop toolbox never gets locked anyways.
 

Aaron8x608

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Sep 11, 2011
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18
Location
Los Angeles
When doing any wiring on a machine, work light etc. at the switch I use a switch and single duplex so there's always an extra power outlet. More machine local power is handy for additional light, coolant pumps etc. On my over head lights instead of tying into their circuit I installed outlets for them to plug into, allowing a local power source when doing work in the rafters. The lights are on a GFCI too because of this. Nice for turning the radio on with the lights too.
Something that I have not done but am soon to be trying is storage tubes with rubber end caps. The tubes can be cut into any length - tuning to the storage need while keeping a uniform shelf foot print. Choose the 3" and one shelf width neatly handles any fastener and spray cans. They are cheap in bulk, costly in units.
 

Krokodil

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Apr 11, 2010
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Location
South Africa
anyone else remove the locking bars from their top toolbox so you can pull the drawers out without lifting the lid? Home shop toolbox never gets locked anyways.

This is a pet hate of mine as well. Still have to figure out to to disable the locking bars.
 

phreke

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Dec 1, 2011
Messages
12
If you dont want to drill into something to far put a piece of vacuum line or fuel line on the drill bit so that only the depth you want to drill is still showing. i learned this the hard way drilling holes for roof racks and spinning the headliner up on my drill.
 

olytdi

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Dec 3, 2011
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2,202
Location
Olympia, Washington
Always build your shop with the highest ceiling/roof you can. Consider a catwalk-like structure about 8 ft up that encircles the inside perimeter of the building on which you can store seldom-used items and even your compressor.

Get a horizontal compressor so you can mount it up off the floor and up on the catwalk. I'll be mounting my Quincy 325 up in the air so that there is no floor space lost.

Always put your infrastructure up as high as possible. The upper 4 ft in a 12 ft high shop is the most wasted space there is in a shop. Keep the floor space clear.
 

Honda guy

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Feb 20, 2011
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735
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North Carolina
Keep a few fire extinguishers handy around the shop. Anytime I'm working with fuel, carbs, etc, I take an extinguisher off the wall and set it right next to where I'm working. Just in case. I'm a little paranoid about fire, since I've had to put out 5 fires in 20+ years as a pro mechanic (none of them caused by me BTW).

To keep them functional, I'm told that about once a month, you should turn them upside down and tap the bottom with a rubber mallet so the powder doesn't cake to the bottom.

I've got a friend whose shop burned to the ground due to a malfunctioning extinguisher. He was trying to start a 4-wheeler and it backfired through the carb. The airbox was full of gas and caught on fire. He grabbed an extinguisher, pointed it at the flaming airbox, pulled the trigger, AND.... the powder was caked in the bottom. All that came out was a big blast of propellant, which blew the flaming gas all over the shop! Multiple fires and no way to put them out:wtf:
 

Toolhorder

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Nov 9, 2009
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Montana
Keep a few fire extinguishers handy around the shop. Anytime I'm working with fuel, carbs, etc, I take an extinguisher off the wall and set it right next to where I'm working. Just in case. I'm a little paranoid about fire, since I've had to put out 5 fires in 20+ years as a pro mechanic (none of them caused by me BTW).

To keep them functional, I'm told that about once a month, you should turn them upside down and tap the bottom with a rubber mallet so the powder doesn't cake to the bottom.

I've got a friend whose shop burned to the ground due to a malfunctioning extinguisher. He was trying to start a 4-wheeler and it backfired through the carb. The airbox was full of gas and caught on fire. He grabbed an extinguisher, pointed it at the flaming airbox, pulled the trigger, AND.... the powder was caked in the bottom. All that came out was a big blast of propellant, which blew the flaming gas all over the shop! Multiple fires and no way to put them out:wtf:

If you have a legit business you have to have them. The powder ones ****. The CO2 ones are way better for cars on fire. Instantly stops the fire and no mess afterwards. I lit my out car on fire once in the shop I worked at. I was trying to do a top engine cleaning and the adapter I used on the fuel rail wasn't the right size. I thought it fit correct but once running I noticed that cleaner was ******* out of the rail and I went to shut the car off. When I came back around the hood it went "woof" and everything was on fire. My buddy grabbed the CO2 one and instantly it was out. He only has the powder ones on the wall for inspections.
 

geologist

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Dec 14, 2011
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If you end up busting an ink pen or find that you've marked on your clothing with ink, you can make a scrub with powdered citric acid (found at drug stores / health food places) to remove the stain. This may also work with Sharpie.
 

Tim Kennedy

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Oct 16, 2011
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368
I make pads to kneel on out of 2" pink foamboard - cut it the size you want - then take duct tape & wrap the edge so it doesn't flake off. They're nice on the knees & when you need to sit on them they're alot warmer than the cold ground or concrete.
 

Krokodil

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Apr 11, 2010
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South Africa
just punch out the pins and pull the bars out and put them somewherer where "you wont lose them"

Thanks! I figured this out yesterday afternoon. Removed them and now the chest works mush better, although I think the habit of first opening the top before a drawer will take a while to disappear.
 
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e-tek

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Dec 19, 2007
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Saskatoon, SK
If you dont want to drill into something to far put a piece of vacuum line or fuel line on the drill bit so that only the depth you want to drill is still showing. i learned this the hard way drilling holes for roof racks and spinning the headliner up on my drill.

good one - I use tape.....

If you end up busting an ink pen or find that you've marked on your clothing with ink, you can make a scrub with powdered citric acid (found at drug stores / health food places) to remove the stain. This may also work with Sharpie.

You been reading the wifes forums again haven't you Steve..... ;)
 

keyser sose

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Jan 30, 2012
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earth, most days
If you ever get the chance, grab a worn out conveyor belt (they DO wear out). They come in diff thicknesses, lengths, and widths. Can use them for rubber non-slip walkways in front of the bench, line your toolbox drawers with the thin ones, all kinds of stuff!

I used 12 X 20" sections of 3/16 thick belt glued to inside of outer door skins on my truck as sound deadener (kills oilcanning noise, still used insulation on top of that), and carry a chunk 18"X24" in the trunk of the car to kneel on if I have to change a tire in my better clothes.

Speakin of the trunk of the car, I also have a lid to one of those big PVC storage tubs in there. It has a raised part about an inch wide running around the outer edge, so I can put greasy/leaking parts on it and they don't get the trunk all messed up! I found mine layin on the side of the road.

Ya gotta have smart brains man! :Homer: :thumbup:
 

CaptRick

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Jan 12, 2012
Messages
19
I use old magnetic car door signs for mats to put the nuts, bolts, screws, small parts on to keep them from getting lost or rolling away. Also one in the parts/tool tray under the rolling garage seat.
 

keyser sose

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earth, most days
I got tired of having a bag of floor dry in the way on the floor all the time. Bought one of those tin dog feeders at the farm supply store. It holds almost a whole bag of floor dry, mounts up on the wall, where its easy to reach. It has a trap door on top for filling it, and a trap door on the bottom that you push inwards, fill a scoop of floor dry, and run over to contain your spill. Much faster cleanup when its organized and easy to find.

Then to fill it up, go to wally world and get the 30lb bucket of clay type cat litter. ***** liquids right up, and the bucket holds 4 gal and is square! Fits right into the corner. Also has a removeable lid, and when turned upside down, makes a pretty good stool to do brake jobs, or do bodywork on the side of the vehicle.

Ya gotta have smart brains man! :Homer: :thumbup:
 

keyser sose

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earth, most days
If you use containers like coffee cans, boxes or plastic & metal containers, turn them upside down when there is nothing in them that way you will that whatever you are looking for is sure not in those containers and it keeps the dirt out as well.

Also REALLY good for that kind of storage is empty Coffee-Mate jars! Real coffee-mate. Tear off the labels and they are plain white underneath (so you can mark them with a sharpie easily), plastic (won't break/dent), and come in diff sizes. I use them in the kitchen (and for camping) too, to store rice, pasta, or beans in. When used in the kitchen for stuff like that, you can use the pour spout too.

Ya gotta have smart brains man! :Homer: :thumbup:
 

phiftyseven

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Sep 27, 2007
Messages
67
Another thumbs up for all the carpet ideas. Nothing worse than kneeling on a hard concrete floor. If you have a carpet/flooing store nearby, stop in now and then, or ask the owner when they get new samples in. Generally, when stores get new carpet samples, they just throw out the old ones, or they may have a pile stacked up for free, or maybe a buck or two. The nice part is that the carpet samples are nicely bound on all the edges. The also make great entrance mats. I have them in front of the door from the garage into the house so I can wipe my feet off.
 

Stephenw

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Joined
Dec 21, 2006
Messages
1,911
Location
Utah
Doing some custom wiring?

You can make your own striped wire by pulling the wire between your fingers and a Sharpie permanent marker. A paint marker would probably work as well, but I haven’t tried one.

Light-300x278.jpg


Metallic colored markers are also available and work well on dark colored wire.

Dark-300x255.jpg


I have a category on my blog...

http://shopngarage.com/category/shopgarage/shop-tips/
 

64 lane

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Dec 26, 2011
Messages
147
Location
Dallas, TX
for shelving use pallet racks and cut them down to fit in the ceiling height.
they can hold lots of weight and you can put large things under them like table saws, shapers, even motorcycles and have the benifit of the storage space above

for lighting in garages with low ceilings you can hand the florecent lights between the rafters so they do not hang down.

use the pull down power cords. I have so much stuff along the walls of the garage that finding a wall outlet is a pain and they are never in the right place. tripping over cords is also a pain. pull down power cords will be the best upgrade you can make

have as much on wheels as you can. all of my equipment is on wheels so that can go along the wall (or under the pallet rack) untill I need it. even my Bport mill is on wheels.

bob
I,ve done the Same, I made a work bench pit of the leftover rack.
 
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