IONH
Well-known member
I'll try it out the next time I'm pulling an old drum with some already partially rounded and stubborn screws. An impact screwdriver doesn't always handle it.
GARAGE TIPS and TRICKS - POST 'em!
- Thread starter e-tek
- Start date
I'll try it out the next time I'm pulling an old drum with some already partially rounded and stubborn screws. An impact screwdriver doesn't always handle it.
I have never in my life seen a brake caliper that would be capable of what you are describing.
djkeev
Well-known member
So, you've seen a brake disc setup that has rolled down the highway at highway speeds acting as a wheel? It is amazing what the force of motion induced stress can do to seemingly very strong items.
Dave
aka Larry
Well-known member
There is NO way that was the reason they are used. It it was, every make would likely have them.
djkeev
Well-known member
So, a better reason to spend money on drilling holes, tapping them, purchasing fasteners and paying fo the time to assemble it all together would be?
I always figured it was for assembly line/alignment. I have never been able to get a rotor off without removing the caliper AND its bracket. I have seen rotors crack in half just from hard braking (honda s2000 do it on the track quiet often actually) and they don't go flying, they pretty much just drop and slide.
1. That's not really what your first post said. At all.
2. If your second scenario plays out, you think that a ~1/4 bolt is going to keep the disc attached? Maybe you're underestimating force of motion induced stress on seemingly very strong items?
koditten
Well-known member
I was under the impression that some wheels are held on with stud bolts. Kinda hard to hold that disc on the hub with no studs on the hub. The screw holds the disc in place until you can get the stud bolts thredded thru the wheel into the disc. No?
that is on some cars (VWs possible others) but those studs on many cars are pressed into the hub before rotor is attached.
aka Larry
Well-known member
I actually forgot about those because only stupid Germans seems to thing stud bolts are better. However I was thinking of my Honda Prelude, which has those stupid screws...which I quickly tossed.
IONH
Well-known member
My old 90 Probe GT with rear disc has the wheel bearing inside it and the studs for the wheel actually pressed into it.
This thread was great before it got off topic.
This thread was great before it got off topic.
DING DING DING We have a winner!
Primered Thunder
Banned
the time saved on the assembly line is greater than the cost of the operations & materials l you listed. nutshell: the guy putting the wheels on doesn't have to wrestle with the rotor.
you would be absolutely amazed at how many things on a car are designed specifically for this reason versus vehicle operational reasons.
6530
Well-known member
Wow, those are great!
Carguy99
Well-known member
my best tip.... make sure you check your welding helmet for spiders.
BHR4CE1
Well-known member
One thing that really worked out well for me was to use SLIDING doors on my garage cabinets rather than HINGED doors. Makes it SO easy to get what you need without fear of hitting your vehicles. Please see my build thread or video (both below) to see what I am talking about.
41ratrod
Well-known member
I put a led from a 55 gal drum on the drill press under the table to catch drill shavings . Used a hole saw to cut a hole in the center and cut a notch in the side to got around the post and clear the crank. Works great and cleans up
with a vacuum cleaner.
with a vacuum cleaner.
ASRoff
Well-known member
Bees wax............ can use it to hold washers upside down during assembly. can be use to check valve clearance. put it on the head of a bolt to keep it in place on the end of a socket while fishing it into hard to reach places. can be melted into rusted and seized bolts...works better than penetrating oil. spread it on a machined surface to hold a gasket in place.
ASRoff
Well-known member
Tape a "to do" list directly on the windshield of the car so you dont forget anything like "OIL" or "connect fuel line"
Not so much as safety hazard but as a noise hazard and scaring the bejesus out of you when you least expect it.
As a youngster, maybe 8 or 9 I was smashing caps out in the garage, remember the red rolls of caps for a cap gun ? As I was done I looked over and saw a shiny piece of metal (what I thought was metal) on the floor. So I took the hammer I was using and smacked it. Scared the **** out of me, my ears were ringing and I learned to never do that again. I'd guess they were primers for my step-dad's .243 winchester.
mdbeck1
Well-known member
Shotgun primers are even more fun. ...but they're easier to see and pick up. They will throw a nice flame out the end of the shotgun barrel (without powder).
I write on the windshield with a Sharpie. Wipes off easy, and it's hard to ignore or forget when you're staring at the words from the drivers seat.
Primered Thunder
Banned
I write on the windshield with a Sharpie. Wipes off easy, and it's hard to ignore or forget when you're staring at the words from the drivers seat.
I do the same but use a grease pencil only because I never thought of the Sharpie idea.
RW-7
Well-known member
I have an old dresser in my shed that I store tools in.
It is all wood with wood on wood slides that get sticky over time and frustrating to yank open.
I found an old candle and waxed all the wood to wood contacts where the drawers slide.
Works great now. In fact I recon you could use this trick on a few wood to wood sliding surfaces. Or waxed based soap if you don't have an old candle handy.
It is all wood with wood on wood slides that get sticky over time and frustrating to yank open.
I found an old candle and waxed all the wood to wood contacts where the drawers slide.
Works great now. In fact I recon you could use this trick on a few wood to wood sliding surfaces. Or waxed based soap if you don't have an old candle handy.
smalltruck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2011
- Messages
- 333
So you have a broken bolt down a hole. For smaller bolts like 5/16 or 8mm take a steel tire valve stem and cut about a half inch long piece to fit in the hole. The center hole will be about the size of an 1/8th inch drill bit. Now you have and easy way to center the bit. For larger bolts a wrap or 2 of electrical tape is all you need to get the piece of tube centered.
beelsr
Well-known member
Clever! My best alternative use for valve stems is as an air vent on the crappy new gas cans so they don't "chug". I use all metal ones from NAPA that are a dollar-something...
I could have used this earlier tonight when I was drilling out a broken bolt from a stihl blower head. 6mm; but i might have had a valve stem that fit. The bolt end protruded a bit from the case so I managed to get a vise-grip in there are see it it turned in the hole. It did so I just chucked up a 1/8" left-hand drill and free-handed it out...
I'll need to go sort through all the dead stems on the floor around the tire machine - glad I haven't swept up there yet...
jrlp
Well-known member
a little trick i find works good if you get metal in your eye
is use a strong magnet like a angle magnet you'd use for welding
an rub it gently on you eye lid over the area the steel is in your eye
an itll pull it out..if its well up in your eye lid you'll have to move the magnet around to get it out...hasnt failed me yet though
an for the safety glasses brigade i do use safety glass but ya can still get the odd stray that gets around them
Bingo! I use a ~500lb MagSwitch magnet to pull metal out of my eyes. It seems even if you wear safety glasses under a face-shield, somehow, something will still eventually make it past. The MagSwitch has enough pull to get anything out. I've actually gone to a buddy's house with it to get something out of his eye from the day before.. and it got it.. much to my friends dismay. His eye had already started healing around the sliver, and the magnet pulled it out.
Garage5.9
Well-known member
when removing a lower ball joint on pretty much any honda if it does not break loose with the usual swing of a BFG put your jack under the ball joint with a socket in between the joint and the jack (leaving the castle nut on with just a few threads so you dont **** them up) pump the jack just a few times to take some weight off the stands and almost guarantee it will break free in my experiences
z28snksknr
Well-known member
When using a ball joint remover / installer (the giant heavy duty c-clamp tool), I found it's easier on the tool to tighten the clamp with an impact, then use a hammer to hit the back of the screw. Joint pops loose on the 1st or 2nd hit.
Works for getting joints pressed in as well - especially if its hard to get them to go in square to the bore because you can tap around the outside while the clamp holds compression.
mrbreezeet1
Banned
Yeah, have had to do that on ford Taurus quite a few times too.
JobeFabrications
Active member
If you need to remove the zinc coating from a bolt, nut or screw...drop it in some Ospho and it will eat the zinc off and leave a nice clean steel surface you can weld to. I've been doing this for hardware for my furniture to match the unfinished steel I build in.
Galaxieman
Member
- Joined
- May 20, 2012
- Messages
- 8
Good Idea Jobe...
I use Muriatic acid (Hydrochloric acid) to strip zink before welding. Many have it around for pool or cleaning use. It will strip off zinc coating almost instantly leaving that nice bare steel for welding. I just soak the part in Muriatic acid for a couple of minutes. Watch the fumes...do it outdoors....
I use Muriatic acid (Hydrochloric acid) to strip zink before welding. Many have it around for pool or cleaning use. It will strip off zinc coating almost instantly leaving that nice bare steel for welding. I just soak the part in Muriatic acid for a couple of minutes. Watch the fumes...do it outdoors....
eugz
Member
SWT Racing
Well-known member
I do the same.
When doing mockups for test fitment, I also tend to either leave the hardware obviously loose with a tape flag (to remind me to reinstall with loctite, locking hardware, etc.) or tighten the fasteners as if it were ready to drive.
mdbeck1
Well-known member
Muriatic acid is also used to clean mortar off of bricks. So you might look for it around the brick tools and supplies.
sick467
Well-known member
A couple of saw horses and an interior door make for great temporary tables and don't take up alot of storage space.
Using a second boxed end wrench on the open end of the first makes for a great cheater (and knuckle buster). It really warrents a picture if you don't know what I mean. - sorry.
Mix 1 part liquid automatic dish washer soap to 1 part plain liquid soap or shampoo or any mild liquid soap with 1 part water, mix well and add fine sand until it becomes thick, but not so thick it can't be squeezed from a plastic ketchup bottle AND you have some great cheap mechanic's soap. Just shake it up before every use. You'll never buy gunk, fast orange, etc again.
I use a marine life cushion for my kneeling on the concrete.
Old chrome side mirrors make really cool drink holders when screwed to the wall.
A five gallon bucket with 1/4" of used vegitable oil in the bottom will catch alot of mice (especially in warm temps) so long as they have a way to hop in.
Using a second boxed end wrench on the open end of the first makes for a great cheater (and knuckle buster). It really warrents a picture if you don't know what I mean. - sorry.
Mix 1 part liquid automatic dish washer soap to 1 part plain liquid soap or shampoo or any mild liquid soap with 1 part water, mix well and add fine sand until it becomes thick, but not so thick it can't be squeezed from a plastic ketchup bottle AND you have some great cheap mechanic's soap. Just shake it up before every use. You'll never buy gunk, fast orange, etc again.
I use a marine life cushion for my kneeling on the concrete.
Old chrome side mirrors make really cool drink holders when screwed to the wall.
A five gallon bucket with 1/4" of used vegitable oil in the bottom will catch alot of mice (especially in warm temps) so long as they have a way to hop in.
sick467
Well-known member
One more, for now...
Not really a shop trick, but it does use a shop tool...
A cherry picker can make a great deer skinner. After field dressing, cut the hide around the neck and peel torwards the tail enough to get a golfball sized rock tucked into the hide, tie the rock off with some stout cord (the rock being enveloped by the hide and looking similar to a wrapped lolly-pop). Lower the cherry picker, tie the head to the boom, tie the rock-cord to the cherry picker's legs and hoist away. As your helper lifts the boom, work the hide off as the dear is raised. Once you get it going, most of the hide will come off without any effort.
Not really a shop trick, but it does use a shop tool...
A cherry picker can make a great deer skinner. After field dressing, cut the hide around the neck and peel torwards the tail enough to get a golfball sized rock tucked into the hide, tie the rock off with some stout cord (the rock being enveloped by the hide and looking similar to a wrapped lolly-pop). Lower the cherry picker, tie the head to the boom, tie the rock-cord to the cherry picker's legs and hoist away. As your helper lifts the boom, work the hide off as the dear is raised. Once you get it going, most of the hide will come off without any effort.
MScott
Well-known member
Carguy99
Well-known member
mdbeck1
Well-known member
Yeah, we do that with a 4-wheeler.
I used an HF crane and bolted it in the back of my jeep. You can hold the deer up with it to gut (use a 5 gallon bucket and a trash bag but be careful) then lay the deer down and put it on a gambrel. Cut through the tale and use a "brush grabber" with a piece of rope tide to the trailer hitch. Works like a charm until you are over halfway down then you wrap the rope around something sturdy nearby and pull.