Garage Unit Heater Final Install Advice

[rgalbert63]

Greetings,

I'm nearly complete with my Reznor UDAP 45 propane unit heater DIY install and would any appreciate comments and opinions on the venting, gas, electrical and thermostat connections shown in the attached photos.

The heater has never been started...this will be done by a licensed gas technician after it's been inspected and converted from natural to LP gas.

I installed the heater by closely following the guidelines found in both the Reznor installation and venting manuals.

The vent pipe is 4" stainless Z-Flex NovaVent Cat III with a 1/4" per foot rise for collecting condensation, vented horizontally through a combustible wall using the required stainless thimble and termination cap.

Thermostat wire is run within the wall to a low-voltage single-gang box where 18 gauge wire runs to the heater.

Electrical power is provided via dedicated circuit which exits the wall to the heater in flexible metal conduit.

Propane gas runs from an exterior wall via 1/2" black iron pipe to a change of direction and drip leg, where a 30" section of Dormont corrugated stainless appliance line runs to the heater. Gas service is properly bonded and grounded (there is CSST elsewhere in the house).

Questions: Is it okay to zip-tie the thermostat wire to the flexible electrical conduit; and, is it okay for the Dormont corrugated stainless gas appliance line to be in contact with the conduit?

Any comments and opinions are greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Bob

 

[manwithtools]

I see no problem with the thermostat cable zip-tied to the line voltage supply flex. I would not want the CSST in contact with the electrical even if the CSST is bonded. Personal preference.

I think you need a gas shutoff within 6 feet of the device, defiantly needs to be readily accessible. 6 feet is from memory.

 

[rgalbert63]

Thank you. I should have mentioned that there is a gas shut-off within 6 feet within the black iron pipe and also an electrical cut-off switch.

 

[JimL]

Stainless? Shew! Regular old b-vent would have been fine.

 

[manwithtools]

Stainless? Shew! Regular old b-vent would have been fine.

Not any more. The listing on these unit heaters has been changed to Category III - requiring vent pipe that is rated for such use. I wont disagree that B-vent likely would work fine, but code does not allow it any longer on unit heaters that are so listed.

 

[smalltown]

Bob I see the condensate drain you have installed. I am installing the same one in my installation: it just arrived today. I was wondering what you are going to do to finish that part? I was thinking of connecting the plastic (trap) drain tubing to some PVC piping and down the rear wall of my garage. Just for the winter I was going to let it flow into a 5 gallon bucket just to see the volume of condensate I would be dealing with. To finalize my install I plan on adding a neutralizer to the condensate drain. I hope your not going to let that condensate just drip onto your garage floor. I'm told it's acidic and will eat the cement that's why I am going to add the neutralizer before eventually getting it outside.
If you have any pictures of that part I would love to see them.

 

[BCreekDave]

You can just drill a drain hole in the slab. Also gives you an easy place to pour used motor oil.

Just kidding.


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[jevoy]

Re: garage heater final install advice.
I had to install a disconnect switch as well as an emergency shut off switch.

John

 

[rgalbert63]

Bob I see the condensate drain you have installed. I am installing the same one in my installation: it just arrived today. I was wondering what you are going to do to finish that part? I was thinking of connecting the plastic (trap) drain tubing to some PVC piping and down the rear wall of my garage. Just for the winter I was going to let it flow into a 5 gallon bucket just to see the volume of condensate I would be dealing with. To finalize my install I plan on adding a neutralizer to the condensate drain. I hope your not going to let that condensate just drip onto your garage floor. I'm told it's acidic and will eat the cement that's why I am going to add the neutralizer before eventually getting it outside.
If you have any pictures of that part I would love to see them.

Hello,

I apologize for the long delay responding:

FWIW, I realized after installing the drip leg, which is what NovaVent instructions specified, that I instead should have followed Reznor's instructions which specified that the vent pipe should be angled downward with NO drip leg, allowing any condensation to simply run down the pipe and drip outside.

I may change the configuration this fall and remove the drip leg, per Reznor. The vent pipe total run is less than 48" and I live in Maine. It should work fine.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[bileshake]

Love this thread, I'm shopping for one of these units in Ontario Canada. Winter is on it's way.

 

[rockwvu]

Bob,

Can you put a picture up of the thimble from the outside.
I'm doing a similar install and cannot understand how the thimble works.

Is there something that takes up the space between the pipe and thimble?
Or is there a 1 inch gap that lets outside air back in around the pipe passing through the thimble?

 

[yeldogt]

Looks like a nice install