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Garage update pics part 4

ChucksCrib

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The big picture

The slab should be poured on Thursday over an .012 vapor barrier.

garageq.jpg


garager.jpg


garages.jpg


garaget.jpg
 
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C_F

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Hey! I know an easy way to get on your garage roof for hanging Christmas lights! :lol:


Looks good, you're really cruising with that!
 

ZRWON

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Not only does it look like a great shop/garage, it is a very attractive addition to the design of your house. Was the design of the garage included when the house was originally designed and built?
Only thing that will improve it will be when you get that RED beast in there. You sure do get some real strong horses out of it! :thumbup:
 
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ChucksCrib

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It's still gonna be a while before I can move in. I'll have to wait about 1 month and a half for the concrete to fully cure before I can epoxy the floor. Then it'll be a few days after that before I can start sliding my gear in. The cars however should be able to drive on the slab in about a week.

No, the garage was not part of the original design. It's a combination of what the builder and I came up with after listening to my requirements.

I'll be taking pics this Thursday morning of the slab being poured. I definetly want to be there for that one to be sure the vapor barrier doesn't rip upon pouring.
 

bmwpower

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When you say it's a 0.012 vapor barrier, do you mean 12 mils?
 

bmwpower

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Where were you able to get a 12mil vapor barrier? I was able to find some up to 15mils, but they wanted to sell me a 500ft roll...ouch

How thick of a slab are you going to pour?
 
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ChucksCrib

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We are actually doubling up on a .006 vapor barrier. I did however find a local concrete supply house here in CT that was selling a 2000 square foot roll of .010 for $121, But I've decided to opt for the thicker of my options.
 

Luckydevil

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how does a true vapor barrier differ from the 6 mil rolls of plastic they sell at lowe's for $30?
 

bmwpower

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Good question! I spent too much time researching this topic...

The "plastic" you are referring to breaks down very easy when exposed to the elements. In addition, the water permeability of this stuff is quite high.

A true vapor retarder (the correct term for this stuff) has passed certain standards setup by ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials):

(taken from another website):

"ASTM E 1745–97 “Standard Specification for Plastic Water Vapor Retarders Used in
Contact with Soil or Granular Fill under Concrete Slabs.”. is a standard that was
written by a committee of ASTM chaired by Tom **** an architect in Northern
California.

Three performance classes are outlined A, B and C (with Class A being the best).
Permeance levels are the same for each class. Tensile Strength and Puncture
Resistance change with each class.

1745 refers to ASTM E 154-93 “Standard Test Methods for Water Vapor Retarders
Used in Contact with Earth Under Concrete Slabs, On Walls or as Ground Cover.” and
to ASTM E 96-95 “Standard Test Methods for Water Vapor Transmission of Materials."

In addition, these standardized materials are more robust and do not break down in nearly as fast as normal "plastic" (if at all).
 

DynoDave

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I had absolutely no idea. I thought plastic was plastic. Great info to have. Now I just have to find it!
 
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ChucksCrib

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I didn't have my digital camera this morning when they poured the slab however, I did take some pics with the fim camera. It will just take a week or so to get those developed.

On to the vapor barrier.......................


The Material felt to me to be a monoaxually oriented polypropylene or polyethylene. I put a micrometer on it and it was double up .0055. (totaling .011) I was not able to see the packaging that the vapor barrier came in but I do know where it was purchased. So I'll have to go to the store and check out all its' specs this weekend..
 
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ChucksCrib

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After tearing of the label of the box that the film came in, I contacted the manufacturer. (Rodeo Plastic bag anf Film in Mesquite TX.) The VP sent me over the spec sheets. With respect to the decay characteristics of the film, it meets or exceeds ASTM C-156, using the testing proceedure explained in ASTM E-154
 

DynoDave

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Good info guys. Thanks for sharing. I'll have to be sure and have SOMETHING put down before my slab is poured. Now I have some choices.
 
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