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Garage ventillation

fury9

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
1,277
Location
Mchenry, IlLaHnoYs
Hi all, I want to vent my garage and need some ideas.

Specs- Raised ranch (garage is under house) insulated and finished inside heated too. 500sqft 2 car.

I do welding,sanding,grinding and a wide array of activities in there. When I work on stuff wife complains of smells like gasoline, and other harmful fumes.I also have a three year old son who's room is above the garage (all the bedrooms have a part of the garage under them).

I really need to vent the place because when I weld or create smoke or lots of fumes I open the door and in the winter that *****. Any ideas or suggestions will be considered and put to use. I'm on a budget.

I have no issue with cutting holes in the walls.
 
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Krodad

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Joined
Mar 25, 2006
Messages
304
Location
Iowa
Just get a couple powered gable end attic fans. If you keep everything else pretty tight the slight underpressure should keep the house isolated from the fumes.

No matter what I did in the garage, if it was metalwork the wife always said I smelled greasy.
I had to let her go ;)

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
 

6768rogues

Banned
Joined
Nov 28, 2007
Messages
4,524
Location
Western NY
Welding tables used indoors have vent hoods over them. You could make a poor man's version with an old range hood/fan.
 

JayCrash450

Active member
Joined
Oct 9, 2013
Messages
36
Location
Garden Grove, Ca
I was going to suggest a small whole house fan. But that air exchanger looks great. A whole house fan is just going to draw air from the inside straight out, thereby bringing in cold air. They work great at exchanging air, you could even put one on a rheostat to control the amount of air exchange. Anything from changing the air to once every 10 min to once every hour could be setup. I'm intrigued by that "air exchanger". I wonder how it goes about changing air effectively while not fully transferring heat load.
 

muibubbles

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Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
685
Location
nj
lol im in the same boat... im looking into industrial type exhaust fans....

I dont know how anyone is even recommending a bathroom house fan, those can barely exhaust the stink out from when you take a sh*t lol........
 

icsamerica

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2013
Messages
16
I had a raised ranch with all three bedroom over a very deep 2 car garage and I paint, weld etc. I sealed it up tight at the door and pipe protrusions and used one of these HF fans linked below. I fitted it to the ceiling and made it exhaust out the side with some 8 inch HVAC ducting. Then i put an air inlet with a filter on the opposite end of the garage. when the fans runs it creates a slight negative pressure in the garage and then no smell in the house at all. I was amazed how well it worked and my wife no longer complained.

http://www.harborfreight.com/garage-shop/ventilation-blowers/8-inch-portable-ventilator-97762.html
 
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dladcock

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Joined
Jan 29, 2010
Messages
855
Location
North Carolina
I don't have anything to offer as a solution. I was reading the first post and it gave me a shiver. This past Sunday this is what happened to a neighbors house. Appears it may have started in the garage where lawn equipment gas and propane for the grills were stored.

No one was home, although they did loose their small dog. Gave me pause for thought.

All I can say, is please be careful.

dla

Video

 

Mustangmike66

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 16, 2012
Messages
77
Location
Wasilla, Alaska
I installed an exhaust fan I purchased from grainger. I used 2 4" make up air vents on either side of the garage. My fan is on a variable speed rheostat switch so I can adjust the fan speed. The garage is so tight, if I spin the fan anywhere above mid range my garage doors **** in. The fan has louvers on the outside so when the fan is off they are closed. It is a small source of heat loss but it's well worth it.

As far as living space above your garage, please be careful with car exhaust fumes. Here in Alaska, we lose several people a year due to people warming their cars up in the winter
time.
 

J Persons

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Joined
Jul 27, 2010
Messages
640
Location
Louisiana
I use a powered attic gable vent, it has its own thermostat and I also use a on/off switch. This is in the compressor room, and it works pretty well. I also have two other powered gable vents in the main part of the shop.
 

hayhauler71

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Joined
Dec 29, 2013
Messages
362
Location
MN
I used a Dayton 1/4 hp fan assembly with some homemade duct work and this will clear the room of all odors. Has 2 speeds and is mounted in the attic
 

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Falcon67

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Joined
Jun 11, 2009
Messages
18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
I use this cheap Home Depot attic fan. It vents through the roof vents. It pulls so hard it ***** in the overhead door and pulls air in through every outlet in the shop.
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fury9

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Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
1,277
Location
Mchenry, IlLaHnoYs
Thanks for all the great Ideas, now I have several options to choose from. I always open the door when I'm doing something that makes fumes, and the cars get started then go outside, It's heated so no need to warm them up.
 

T VETTE

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Joined
May 19, 2009
Messages
452
Location
Kalifornia, below Yosemite National Park.
I use a powered attic gable vent, it has its own thermostat and I also use a on/off switch. This is in the compressor room, and it works pretty well. I also have two other powered gable vents in the main part of the shop.

That is what I am going to use when I build my 2 car this spring. It will house the mowers, quads, motorcycles,etc.
 

Prototyper

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2009
Messages
77
Location
Kalispell, Montana

Yes, an air exchanger would be great for providing ventilation without significant heat loss, but not this one. That unit is only capable of moving 120 CFM. In my little 20x30 shop it would take about 52 minutes to exchange the air once. Also, they will be quickly destroyed if the exhaust air has contamination (smoke, paint spray, etc) present. You need to move a lot more air than that to deal with fumes. Another way to improve fume extraction performance is to use flexible hoses, hoods and small paint booths (even a cardboard box) to catch the fumes at the source. Works much better than trying to exchange all the air in the shop, once it is contaminated.
 
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