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garage wall finish materials

larry4406

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What have you guys been using to finish the walls other than drywall? In particular, I have been thinking of using a white pvc product that is 1/8 inch thick and comes in 4x8 sheets. I am thinking of overlaying it on the drywall for the first four feet of the wall. That way I can hose out the garage without worry. I say this stuff advertised in a farm catalog for use in livestock barns.

Alternately, am thinking of using "green" board drywall for the lower four feet. same stuff used in bathrooms.
 
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ultgar

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New Jersey
FRP panels are available in 4x8 and 4x10 sheets. Easy to work with and covers a lot of wall fast and relatively inexpensively.

rdfloor1.jpg


Plan your layouts properly so you don't have a seam falling in the middle of an electrical box. The only problem I've had with FRP is yellowing from UV exposure. SD
 

teke

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Dec 4, 2006
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I've seen this material at the home depot and lowes. Its somewhat priciey but looks like it would hold up well in a garage. How do you attach it to the walls?

Thanks

Teke
 

VvvJRvvV

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Sharptown
The price on OSB is getting cheaper by the day. I am going to use that on my ceiling and walls.
 

Runum

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VvvJRvvV said:
The price on OSB is getting cheaper by the day. I am going to use that on my ceiling and walls.

:thumbup: OSB here too.
 

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Down Under Bloke

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If you plan to overlay your drywall with something else and hose it out make sure you use the green stuff. If you are going to house it out I would recommend doing the whole thing in green as you will end up with extreme humidity.
 

z28toz06

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I am going to use 1/2" cdx plywood on the bottom four feet and cover it with FRP (fiberglass reinforeced panels. It's the water proof stuff you see used in commercial bathrooms like dunkin donuts etc. . Above that I will use sheetrock. It,s totally waterproof. As far as greenboard i'm sure it's better than regular sheetrock but it is by no stretch waterproof.

I am also looking for a couple of 4 foot waterproof light fixtures, flourescent of course to go low on the wall for detailing.
 
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larry4406

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where do you get the FRP panels? How are they secured? How thick are they? Do the go on top of the drywall or in lieu of it?
 

vinculum

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I did mine in 3/4" T&G plywood (not OSB). Adds strength, paintable, screw anything to it anywhere.

Good luck!
 

z28toz06

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larry4406 said:
where do you get the FRP panels? How are they secured? How thick are they? Do the go on top of the drywall or in lieu of it?
you can glue them or they sell these little buttons that you drill a hole first pop them in and hit them with a hammer. they expand through the sheetrock and hold well.

home depot sells it as does lowes and probably your local lumber yard. dry wall or equivalent under it. its very thin. I'm going to use 1/2 cdx first as its stronger than sheetrock, taking jack handles and car door whacks much better than shitrock. Also a little better with moisture and easier to attach things to it, shelves etc.
 

Gummi Bear

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Sunset, Texas
The more I think about it, the more I want to use the melamine faced pegboard as a wall covering. I've seen it at Home Depot, in 4x8 sheets, and it has a white face.

whitepeg1.jpg


FRP does well, and goes up fast.

You could also do drywall and heavy vinyl wall covering like they use at hospitals and the like.

If you do a lot of welding, a 4' wide piece of galvanized sheet steel, or aluminum if you're a high zoot kind of guy, laid horizontally and a chair rail to act as a spark guard and save your walls.
 

SULLY

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I used galvanized aluminum and
it worked well for me.


Sully........
 

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JMURiz

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SULLY said:
I used galvanized aluminum and
it worked well for me.

Sully........
I'm doing that on my ceiling, how much does that stuff cost per sheet (if you don't mind me asking)?
I'm doing standard gyp on the walls, with at least a 4x8 sheet of metal pegboard.
 

SULLY

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JMURiz said:
I'm doing that on my ceiling, how much does that stuff cost per sheet (if you don't mind me asking)?
I'm doing standard gyp on the walls, with at least a 4x8 sheet of metal pegboard.

It was included in the bid for the garage.
I believe it is pretty reasonable though.
It is very thin but easy to replace if ya
needed to.

Sully.......
 

cw_racefan

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SULLY said:
I used galvanized aluminum and
it worked well for me.


Sully........


Any suggestions on where to get aluminum like that? I was thinking of using it for my ceiling also, but haven't been able to find anything reasonably priced.

BTW, I'm using the solid brushed stainless finish paneling from DPI like speedminded mentioned for my walls.
829brushed_stainless.jpg

Had to order it directly from them, but I think it will look cool. Apparently the aren't making the solid (not tile finish or pegboard, just solid smooth panels) anymore. Also, be careful with the pegboard from them, they apparently are making it thinner now (according to their sales rep) and it's not recommended to be installed directly to studs anymore.

Craig
 

BoCRon

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I've seen the Decpanels at my local Lowe's but only in the white. I'm really liking the brushed tile look and am thinking it might look cool in a band around the room below where I'll be putting in the Storewall!
Sully, I love your garage. Great style and looks like a great place to be.
Annette
 

Morrisman

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Excuse a Limey for asking daft questions, but what is FRP and OSB?

I was planning to leave my place in painted concrete blockwork, (when it gets that far) or if I need to line it some day use 1/2" or 3/4" exterior plywood, but if there are better materials on the market it would be good to know.
 
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JMURiz

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cw_racefan said:
Also, be careful with the pegboard from them, they apparently are making it thinner now (according to their sales rep) and it's not recommended to be installed directly to studs anymore.
That's odd, how are you suposed to use it for hanging tools then? I thought the idea was to mount to studs for strength :headscrat
 

speedminded

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JMURiz said:
That's odd, how are you suposed to use it for hanging tools then? I thought the idea was to mount to studs for strength :headscrat
Probably needs some sort of cross bracing or closer studs to attach it to?

*edit*
oh, i got it! Put a sheet of OSB or 1/4" plywood under it and drill out each hole! hahaha
 
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BoCRon

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Morrisman said:
Excuse a Limey for asking daft questions, but what is FRP and OSB?

I was planning to leave my place in painted concrete blockwork, (when it gets that far) or if I need to line it some day use 1/2" or 3/4" exterior plywood, but if there are better materials on the market it would be good to know.


FRP=Fiberglass Reinforced Panels
OSB=Oriented Strand Board
osb.jpg


Annette
 

cw_racefan

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JMURiz said:
That's odd, how are you suposed to use it for hanging tools then? I thought the idea was to mount to studs for strength :headscrat

I assume if you are putting it over drywall, you would have to mount it on stand-offs of some sort. I think originally it was 1/4" but now it's something thinner, though the store may have the thicker stuff still. She wasn't real clear on the whole thing.

Anyone have a source for the galv. aluminum like Sully used? Was also looking at this as a possibility for my ceiling.
 

SULLY

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cw_racefan said:
I assume if you are putting it over drywall, you would have to mount it on stand-offs of some sort. I think originally it was 1/4" but now it's something thinner, though the store may have the thicker stuff still. She wasn't real clear on the whole thing.

Anyone have a source for the galv. aluminum like Sully used? Was also looking at this as a possibility for my ceiling.

Here (hopefully) is a link to where my contractor got mine.
www.metalsales.us.com I am in Minnesota but I would think
any lumber yard would have a source. This place only sells
to contractors not the general public.

Sully.......
 

speedminded

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SULLY said:
Here (hopefully) is a link to where my contractor got mine.
www.metalsales.us.com I am in Minnesota but I would think
any lumber yard would have a source. This place only sells
to contractors not the general public.

Sully.......
Just about any sign shop supply company carries large sheets of aluminum and various metals in all thickness' and virtually any color. For you Atlanta/North Georgia area people http://www.alumapanel.com/ in *******, GA has just about anything you can imagine.
 

Willy Victor

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I have never heard of galvinized Aluminum. As for the fiberglass panels, a 4x8 sheet goes for $25 around here.

Willy
 

Morrisman

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BoCRon said:
FRP=Fiberglass Reinforced Panels
OSB=Oriented Strand Board


Annette
Thanks for the info. Is that OSB waterproof, as I see loads of you guys in the USA using it for walls and roof, under cladding or felt? We have similar stuff in the UK but if falls to bits quickly if you get it wet.
 

speedminded

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Morrisman said:
Thanks for the info. Is that OSB waterproof, as I see loads of you guys in the USA using it for walls and roof, under cladding or felt? We have similar stuff in the UK but if falls to bits quickly if you get it wet.
You may be referring to pressed wood, like MSD? It swells and turns to applesauce when you get it wet unless it's been sealed/painted.

OSB tends to do ok when it gets wet but i wouldn't want to because of mold. Normally when used on the exterior it is covered with Tyvek or some other sort of weather resistant barrier with the siding then placed on top of it.
 

PAToyota

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speedminded said:
You may be referring to pressed wood, like MSD?

That would be MDF - medium density fiberboard. Yep, applesauce is an apt description...

The OSB does ok if it gets wet a bit during construction. Repeated moisture and it falls apart too - just into bigger chunks. Environmentally, OSB is the more sound material as you're using a waste product instead of virgin material like lumber or plywood. But I still have problems with using it in structural capacity because most of the structure of it ends up being in the glue.
 

Brad54

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My shop has 12-foot tall ceilings. From the ceiling down 8 feet, I've hung white faced pegboard, because it's a ton easier than sinking a nail into the wall every time I want to hang something up; vintage signs, valve covers, intake manifolds, aluminum bell housings, tools, extension cords, broom/shovel/dust pan, etc. etc. etc.
From the floor up 4 feet, I'm putting bright-finish corrugated steel. I found a local siding supplier (Jefferson, Georgia), that sells it for a few bucks per linear foot, cut to size. I've lost my notes, but it's going to cost me about $150 to do my 32x40 shop.
I've got a pallet rack in the shop, that takes up almost half of the back wall (12-feet long, 10 feet high); behind the whole rack I put 1/4-inch plywood and painted it white. Heavy things go on and under that shelf, and when they get slid back, they'd poke through drywall: engines on dollys under the shelf, transmissions on the shelf, etc.

The white pegboard is also nice because you don't have to mud the seams, sand and paint it. Put it up with 2-inch long deck screws screwed every 2 feet (or less) directly into the existing holes in the pegboard. The flared head holds in the hole very nicely, and they flush sink that way. You won't be able to pound a nail into easily, and if you try screwing in between the holes, it looks horrible and doesn't work real well anyway.

By the time you figure in all the supplies (tape, mud, sanding stuff), paint and especially time, I don't think pegboard is much more expensive at all. You'll feel it when you buy 24 sheets of pegboard versus 24 sheets of drywall, but I think it averages out by the end of the project. And like I said--once the pegboard is hung, you're done and can enjoy the light-reflective surface.

Brad
 

atch

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there's a lot of mention about pegboard on this thread. i love the stuff and have installed it in two basements. the first time i was pretty young and broke (about 1980 or so), so i cut two sheets in half lengthwise and put up the resulting 32 linear feet of 2' wide pegboard at a convenient height. i fastened it tightly to the studs. can't remember now if i nailed or screwed it, but it doesn't matter. after a year or two it had either swelled or expanded to the point that it wasn't flat anymore. between each stud it either bowed out or in about a half inch or so.

so when i moved (1987) and was going to put it in the next basement shop i fastened each piece solidly in the center but slotted holes and left the nails/screws a tad loose everywhere else. this kept it from bowing like the first house.

anyone else had that problem?

i've thought of doing a lot of pegboard in my 30x60 detatched shop where i live now, and would like to fasten it solidly, but don't want it to bow. any tips on how to mount it solid but not get this bowing?
 
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I have a question on this same subject also.

I have a 2 car garage that has a back wall of unpainted concrete (foundation), one wall is the foundation that steps down to knee level, the other wall is drywall. I'd like to seal the foundation, possibly insulate it with the pink styrofoam type of insulation, and attach white plastic pegboard to it like listed above. Any suggestions besides what we've already seen? I plan on painting the floor with white gloss epoxy at some point and building a couple of workbenches for my auto addiction.

I'm kind of at in impasse about the walls, do I just seal them, or fully finish them with drywall, insulate them and put standoffs for the pegboard? Too many options!!
 

HatTrick

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Jul 21, 2005
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MN
2 Questions: 1 for the Metal Users, 1 for the FRP Users

First, I've been thinking of using Metal in mine also. Either on the ceiling or on the lowest 4 feet of wall. How badly does this affect noise levels, though? Have any of you had any trouble and what have you done to keep the noise tollerable?

Second, how bad does the FRP stain when things are spilled on it? My shop will be used for both wood working and automotive, so the chance of chemical spills/splatters is high enough to worry about.
 

bluesman2a

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Atlanta, Ga.
Question: I've seen some really good solutions here from a materials perspective, and I like how the bottom 4 feet is done, but how are you guys transitioning from say FRP or other sheet metal, to whatever is above the 4' mark? are you using some sort of moulding?

Also how are you finishing the floor to sheet joints? Any material suggestions there?
 
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