Garage wall stud spacing vs. truss spacing

[Jayhem]

I'm planning a 26'x32' garage with 26' span attic trussed to support a 12.5'x32' office/apartment space above the garage (no plumbing).

The stud walls will be 8', 2x6 stud with 5/8 sheathing construction built on an 8x8x16 block stem wall that is 24" above the garage slab, giving me 10' ceiling height.


Local building code allows my 2x6 stud walls to be on 24" centers up to 10' of stud wall height to support a "second floor". My attic trusses will also be on 24" centers. Even with 2x6 a 24" on center spacing seems like a lot to me. If I went with a 16" stud spacing then my attic trusses won't be placed directly above each stud, most of them will be sitting on the double top plate randomly.

What would you do? 16" or 24" stud spacing with attic trusses on 24" centers?

 

[pattenp]

24" spacing is fine with 2X6 studs and that is what I'd do. To do 16" with 2X6's to me is a waste of money and materials.

 

[rburke65]

"Seems like a lot to me"? WHAT seems like a lot? My shop also was built with 2x6" studs on 16" centra and my attic trusses were on 24" on center. Had builder use a triple top plate but not for a structural issue, just to gain another 1 1/2" in ceiling height.

 

[forAK]

I like going 16". It might add up to an extra $150 in 2x6's but the extra strength can't be over looked.

 

[GMCGarage]

I agree with 16" o.c. Just makes for a better wall, wont have to use 5/8" drywall, and hopefully insulation will be cheaper.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Lots of variables. A 24 oc wall leaves you with less thermal bridging which means better thermal performance. A 24 oc isn't nearly as strong or sturdy as 16 oc. If you are going to have living space above or someplace that you frequent I would do 16 oc hands down. The trusses don't have to land on the studs either. No issue there.

 

[lakeroadster]

I too agree on the 16" for the stud centers. Also gives more nailing surfaces and support for drywall.

 

[Backyard Imports]

I agree with 16" o.c. Just makes for a better wall, wont have to use 5/8" drywall, and hopefully insulation will be cheaper.

Many companies have started using 24"OC for houses here because it allows for better insulating and it is less expensive overall. I am sure how exactly this works but when these companies (Quadrant, DR Horton, etc) start doing this you can bet it is a money saver.

 

[CrashmanS]

My garage is 16 oc walls and 24 oc trusses with no issue. I agree with 16 walls if for nothing else but shelving and wall board support.

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[pstnbly]

I would space my studs on 24" centers. This allows for a continuous load path, better insulation, and less thermal bridging though the framing members. Thermal bridging accounts for more heat loss than most realize.

 

[Garagetime]

I did 16" on center 2 foot on center trusses. Garage is 26x32. My trusses are 28 feet wide. It gives me 1 foot over hang for eves.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=350855

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

In all my 32 years in framing, I never framed any walls at 24" o/c, always 16"o/c with dbl. top plates. 24" was allowed (under roof only, no floor loads) but trusses had to stack directly over the studs. For the money saved, it's not worth it...now on the other hand if you were framing 100 houses, then the dollars would add up.
Thermal transfer through wood is low, if they were metal studs, then it would be significant.

 

[matt_i]

The double top plate bridges between any combination of stud @ 16"oc and truss @ 24"oc. Code here is to have the gaps in the double top no less than 24" apart.

 

[larry4406]

I agree the 24" o/c would be fine. However I would put the studs at 16" o/c so as to reduce the "wave" you will likely see in the sheathing which will likely telegraph into the finished siding.

When my company switched to 2x6 framing for improved insulation, the bean counters bragged about framing savings by going to 24" o/c. Yeah right save maybe 15 studs per deck; this is in the weeds of dumpster food.

We experienced waves and bows in the sheathing which was evident in the vinyl siding. We had wall bows that exceed criteria on the drywall finish. After many paid for repairs to fix these, the bean counters went back to 16" o/c and the problems went away.

We double top plate.

YMMV.

 

[Jayhem]

Thanks all. 16oc it is! Thermal transfer not a concern. This is central Virginia. I think so far this winter we have had only a couple dozen nights below freezing.

 

[Voi]

Local building code allows my 2x6 stud walls to be on 24" centers up to 10' of stud wall height to support a "second floor". My attic trusses will also be on 24" centers. Even with 2x6 a 24" on center spacing seems like a lot to me. If I went with a 16" stud spacing then my attic trusses won't be placed directly above each stud, most of them will be sitting on the double top plate randomly.

I'm sure it's already been mentioned but with 16" on center framing and a double top plate it doesn't matter. Trusses don't need to line up over the studs.

Code allows for 2x6 at 24" centers and a single top plate if the trusses line up over the studs.

If you want to go with 24" centers to reduce thermal bridging and reduce material and labor then read up on Advanced Framing. If you're going for reduced thermal bridging and reduced material then might as well get the full benefit with a single top plate, single stud corners, etc. I think in some cases you can even hold up headers with clips instead jack studs but I'm not sure I'd do this in a garage with overhead doors.

As far as what I would do, if thermal bridging were important to me I'd likely address it another way.

Also, if one gable or eave will have much of it's linear run eaten up by overhead doors then I stick with a traditional layout between the doors. In other words, if you were to plan 48" between overhead doors I'd do it with four studs instead of three, not including jack studs. I think for peace of mind more than anything for a long eave that might not have much in the way of framing when all is said and done.

 

[Jayhem]

My Overhead doors are not under the eaves. I'm now thinking a single 18'x9' door is in my best interests

 

[pattenp]

Attic truss on 24" centers is not enough for live load use such as office or apartment use. With a 12' room span what size cord is being specified for 24" centers? This is where 16" centers are needed.

 

[Jayhem]

Attic truss on 24" centers is not enough for live load use such as office or apartment use. With a 12' room span what size cord is being specified for 24" centers? This is where 16" centers are needed.

Bottom Cord is 2x12" This was certified by a Truss Company using MiTek.