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Garage walls

rdnkjeeper

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Aug 22, 2005
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Marquette, MI
I am getting ready to finish up the inside of my garage. I don't really care for drywall, but it is cheap. I want to put up plywood, but the price of that in my area is really high. What do you all have for walls in your garage?
 
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REFLEXX

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Aug 14, 2005
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Riverside, CA
I'm about to drywall. it insulates and sound-deadens, two big points!

Plus, I can paint it or cover it with galvanized sheets for protection.

Or how about just galvanized flat or corrugated sheets?
 

bmwpower

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REFLEXX said:
I'm about to drywall. it insulates and sound-deadens, two big points!

+1. Also with 5/8" you get good fire protection.
 

Der Bugmeister

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Dec 29, 2005
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I'm in the same situation, considering how to finish the inside of my garage (once the outside is finished). I'm leaning towards plywood, at least 8' of it, primarily for it's resistance to developing gaping holes when stuff drops against it.

Not that I'm planning on dropping stuff.
 
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rdnkjeeper

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Marquette, MI
Der Bugmeister said:
primarily for it's resistance to developing gaping holes when stuff drops against it.


That is one of my main concerns. In my old garage I had paneling and I was always putting holes in it working on something rusty.
 

krooser

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OSB should be cheaper than plywood and it will be great....Would you be happy with a luxury car with vinyl seats? Don't cheat on quality now....
 

trovato

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Putnam Valley, New York
rdnkjeeper said:
That is one of my main concerns. In my old garage I had paneling and I was always putting holes in it working on something rusty.

5/8 drywall is pretty tough stuff. I don't know what sort of violence you're planning on subjecting it to, but I haven't punched any holes in mine yet. Also, it's not that hard to repair if something does happen.
 

bmwpower

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I'm down with inexpensive, but have you ever seen OSB burn? The glue used to keep it together helps it burns like you would not believe (I burned all my sheathing scrap in a firebarrel). The fact that its made up of smaller bits of wood doesn't help either.

My 2 cents...
 

Brian

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Apr 11, 2005
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colorado
When I build my dream garage I am going to use corrugated galvanized steel on the walls, probably just one sheet tall and use drywall for the rest.
Fire proof, definitely strong and you could attach things to it anywhere with self tapping screws or pop rivets. The only down side I can think of would be the noise reflection.
 

krooser

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bmwpower said:
I'm down with inexpensive, but have you ever seen OSB burn? The glue used to keep it together helps it burns like you would not believe (I burned all my sheathing scrap in a firebarrel). The fact that its made up of smaller bits of wood doesn't help either.

My 2 cents...

Ok...it burns......so do 2X4's.....But OSB is tough, takes paint pretty good and doesn't need all that mud work and finishing.

It's probably going to be used on most roofs, anyway.

Drywall is great if your shop is just for parking or is used as a showroom...but you need something tougher if you do a lot of fabricating and heavy mechanical work.

You don't see much drywall in weld shops and auto plants.

I prefer steel myself but I finished mine in plywood and OSB simply because it came with the building.
 

byrdman

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Jan 15, 2005
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NC
krooser said:
Ok...it burns......so do 2X4's.....But OSB is tough, takes paint pretty good and doesn't need all that mud work and finishing.

It's probably going to be used on most roofs, anyway.

Drywall is great if your shop is just for parking or is used as a showroom...but you need something tougher if you do a lot of fabricating and heavy mechanical work.

You don't see much drywall in weld shops and auto plants.

Amen. I used OSB instead of sheetrock. It's more durable in a working shop. It was easy to install. I put it up with drywall screws so I can take a sheet down if I ever need to. You can drive nails into it and put screws into it. I hit it with oil-based primer, then two coats of semi-gloss white.
osb.jpg
 

bmwpower

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Ok, ok....OSB/plywood or sheetrock is fine, however, it will depend on the original poster's situation. It the garage is attached, you will need 5/8" drywall on all walls and ceilings facing living space.
 

Paradise Ridge

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Dec 8, 2005
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90
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North Idaho
I'm in the process of wiring, but after that is done I'm using T1-11. Sidewalls are 10', so I figure I'll drywall the top 2. My reasons for T1-11 are:

1) I'm screwing the panels in place so I can get behind them if I need to.

2) I can put a screw anywhere I want to hang something without looking for a stud. I'm mounting french cleat pegboard and 16" centers arn't always where I need to put a screw.

3) Drywall dents! I can replace a sheet if I really need to.

4) Cost. 24 sheets @ $22.00 is a lot, but after figuring drywall w/ tape and mud it's not that much of an upgrade.

5) It looks good!

Just my opinion,

Scott
 

trovato

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Putnam Valley, New York
bmwpower said:
It the garage is attached, you will need 5/8" drywall on all walls and ceilings facing living space.

Where I live, you need 5/8 firecode sheetrock in an attached garage, even on the sides NOT facing living space.
 
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drbill

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Jan 2, 2006
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Detroit
I cheeted a little when I did the drywall. It's hard to see in the picture but I put a cove molding between the back wall and ceiling, quarter round in the corners and up the angled ceiling. Where the angle ceiling meets the flat part of the ceiling I caulked it. Being that part of the ceiling is 12'6" you can't even tell looking at it. At the bottom of the wall is 1' of 1/2" treated plywood then the 8' of drywall. It's not perfect but it's just a garage :rolleyes: that I'll work on my cars and it's only been drywalled and painted for a few months and if I nick it up a bit I can fix it.
For the person wanting to do T-111, they make it in 10' lengths. When my brother added on to his garage and went with 10' wall he found it at Home Depot. He lucked out because someone had special order it and he got a deal to take it off there hands.

Dsc00394.jpg
 

Bucky

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Jan 2, 2006
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Canada
osb

I just finished building my dream garage,and I work at the osb plant so no dry-wall here.But what ever makes you happy,I work outside on my hot-rod for many years.I went from a very small garage to the garage I have now. Here is a pic of my old tiny garage.
 

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krooser

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bmwpower said:
Ok, ok....OSB/plywood or sheetrock is fine, however, it will depend on the original poster's situation. It the garage is attached, you will need 5/8" drywall on all walls and ceilings facing living space.
I AM prejudiced against drywall 'cuz whenever I think about it I think my bride is after to me to do more remodeling....God, how I hate that....
 

Truck Guy

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Aug 15, 2005
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59
Location
Bloomingdale, IL
I was in the same predicament. My garage is a 400sq.ft. 2 car that was drywalled when we first built the house.
I left it unpainted for 17 years before deciding to cleanup and finish that ceiling walls and floor.

The drywall tape job was so bad I was going to have to redo almost all of the seams before painting.

One day I was walking through my local Home Depot when I saw some exterior OSB siding that was
phony wood grained embossed and pre-primed in tan. Decided that it would be easier to nail this stuff up
than re-tape and after installing it decided the tan color was nice enough to leave as a finish color. I was going to paint it white.

Here's a shot with my Gladiator cabinets on one side wall.

Now I can nail or screw in the walls anywhere I want and not worry about finding a stud, unless it's for something heavy.

....and it was extra insulation over the drywall :pimpflash

Next.....THE FLOOR! :thumbup:

IMG_0150Small.jpg
 

evildky

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May 1, 2005
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Louisville, KY
for the guy using the T1-11, keep in mind it's tongue and groove so it's not really very easy removed and it takes a little bit longer to hang and it's more time consuming to cut, as for the drywall, it is cheap to finnish if your doing it yourself
 
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rdnkjeeper

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Aug 22, 2005
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Marquette, MI
krooser said:
I AM prejudiced against drywall 'cuz whenever I think about it I think my bride is after to me to do more remodeling....God, how I hate that....

Me too! I have kids and have to redo plaster work at least twice a year already.
This is for my 835 sq ft (approx) detatched garage. Cost a big factor, poured the concrete when the hurricanes hit. So I ended up going a few grand over budget and now I am trying to finish is off. There really isn't any codes where I live about what to put on the walls.

Drywall would be easier to put up, but then I wouldn't be happy with the joints exposed. I hate mudding!!! So finish work would be easier with plywood/OSB
 

Paradise Ridge

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North Idaho
evildky said:
for the guy using the T1-11, keep in mind it's tongue and groove so it's not really very easy removed and it takes a little bit longer to hang and it's more time consuming to cut, as for the drywall, it is cheap to finnish if your doing it yourself

Yeppers on the T&G, but I'm planning on peeling the tongue off with a hand jointer. I also checked on the 10' sheets, but to get them on special order the price is twice what 8 footers cost.

My pegboard will run from benchtop (48") to the top of the T1-11 (8'). The top 2' will be drywall to give me a smooth area to paint and match the outside of the shop. The T1-11 will be white, and the pegboard natural.

Scott

Don't like the paint scheme? Have you met my wife? (grin!) If I let her paint the top 2' I should be able to get a new compressor out of it!
 

stimpy

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Dec 25, 2005
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troy twshp IL
5/8" fireboard here , but I put 1/4"paneling over the top of it on the bottom half of the wall , I dropped a cylinder head on/against the wall , and all it did was gouge the paneling ( had to replace a 4 X4 foot square ,didn't touch the drywall, it loooks good and since the walls are painted it reflects light and they are easy to clean too ( someone with there greasy paws keeps leaving hand prints ) :headscrat
 

Hugh Morrow

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Jan 9, 2006
Messages
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Prince George BC Canada
Drywall for fire protection and finish it and paint it and when it looks good you will be a little more carefull. It is totaly unreal as to the amout of light difference after the shop is painted. Painting before you move in Is the least spent and best spent cash in a shop.
 

DynoDave

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Michigan
Hugh Morrow said:
Drywall for fire protection and finish it and paint it and when it looks good you will be a little more carefull. It is totaly unreal as to the amout of light difference after the shop is painted. Painting before you move in Is the least spent and best spent cash in a shop.

I'm with Hugh on this one. :beer:
 

indyjps

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Apr 16, 2005
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109
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Oswego ILL
if you drywall, check the local stores for mismatched paint, i check every time i'm @ the store and usually score a gallon or two in white or light color for a couple of bucks, throw it all in a 5 gallon bucket and paint away. why not shoot the walls with texture, i got my texture gun @ menards for $80 to do the ceilings in my previous home, in a garage you could one pass the seams, sponge them down and shoot the knock down, helps hide any dings also.
 

Old Moparz

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Jan 21, 2005
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Newburgh, NY 12550
rdnkjeeper said:
Me too! I have kids and have to redo plaster work at least twice a year already.
This is for my 835 sq ft (approx) detatched garage. Cost a big factor, poured the concrete when the hurricanes hit. So I ended up going a few grand over budget and now I am trying to finish is off. There really isn't any codes where I live about what to put on the walls.

Drywall would be easier to put up, but then I wouldn't be happy with the joints exposed. I hate mudding!!! So finish work would be easier with plywood/OSB


I'm not crazy about doing drywall either. I don't mind doing the drywall boards themselves, it's the taping & spackling I can't stand. It's mostly because I never did it often enough to get really good at it, but there are many advantages to using it. To me they outweigh the disadvantages like kids putting holes in it. You aren't running a daycare center where the little ones will be there forever, they do grow up.

Reasons I'd go with drywall:
Inexpensive compared to most surfaces.
No saw needed to cut & install, & accuracy isn't as critical.
Fire resistant, & even if there are no codes requiring it, better piece of mind.
It's easy & cheap to fix, especially since it's in a garage.

If you're considering OSB, I hope you like the smell of it because it isn't going away anytime soon, even painted. I used regular, 4x8 plywood sheathing on the exterior walls & roof of my garage because I knew it would be years before I ever finished the interior. The smell of OSB is nasty & I didn't want to smell it for years.
 
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Garage Walls

Hey Guys, How do I post a pic. in this forum ? I have a pic. of the inside walls of how I finished my Garage,saved pic. in my mail saved. I have a webtv/plus. Thanks, Mark
 
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