Garage Wiring Ideas

[Bull]

My electrician has let me know that he is getting slow right now, and can come to wire up my new barn/garage at the end of this week or next week.

I do plan to discuss with him what I want/need out there, but I want to hear from those of you with more experience in this area about what I should have them do. I want to do this one, do it right, and not find myself lacking power later.

I had them run conduit for electric as well as a separate conduit for cable/phone.

I know I want outlets up the yang, and at least one 220v for my compressor.

But, what about lighting for the parking bays, where I might also do the occasional maintenance work? I have 8' ceilings there. What about lighting for my designated project bay, where I have 12' ceilings? What about lights upstairs, in the storage area/possible future playroom, office, lounge? Should I just have them install a ton of recessed fixtures up there?

Anything else I should consider?

House's main panel is new, and we have a 200 amp service.

Thanks for your help.

 

[comp]

you want a extra 220 outlet for a welder,,even if you don't have one you want to be able to have a buddy come over with one

 

[Namocsid]

Extra outlet in the ceiling for a cord reel.
Somebody mentioned having switched outlets high up on the wall for neon signs.
and a 220 plug in the ceiling over the project bay for a future lift!

 

[31-5window]

A few things to think about. outlets for welder, plasma cutter I put three down one side of my shop front,middle,rear then I put 20 ft cords on welder and plasma. for lighting I used 8ft florescent on three separate switch's front,middle,rear if your doors block the lights when they are open you can shut them off. you will want a few unswitched outlets on ceiling for drop lights. I have some outlets on separate switch's for lighted signs so they are not on all the time. Now the important stuff TV, stereo put your speaker wire in now run audio video cables from TV to stereo so you hear it when your working. I also put a couple of small speakers outside on a separate channel. hope this helps good luck !

 

[Bull]

Yeah, this is good stuff. Keep it coming!

What about lights for the outside of the building? Motion or spot? Both? I want a flag on the building...should I have a light down low, aimed up at the flag, or a light above the flag aimed down?

 

[GT350RC]

These are great suggestions - I'm also getting ready to wire "The Stable". The idea's for ceiling outlets are superb - I thought of two outlets for openers, but for the cord reel, and others - Nice!

Keep 'em coming!

 

[Piper]

don't forget about wire for phone and ethernet cable for internet. Intercom wire also would be a good idea and some now are considering adding security wire even though they aren't putting in the security right away. If you do run wire but don't "use" it make good notes, take pictures. It's amazing how quickly you'll forget exactly which corner, side of the joist etc a wire was run. I'd also consider putting a conduit or 2 in in key places for use to pull any wires you need down the road. Just a hollow tube easily installed now but potentially a huge work saver down the road.

Piper

 

[shopforeman]

Good advice all around.

I like to use double gang boxes so I have four outlets at each location rather than only two. Otherwise you end up being short of outlets.

Plan your wiring carefully. Some outlets you will want at or near bench height so they are easy to get at. Other outlets you may want nearer the floor.

I've thought a long time about putting outlets in the concrete floor to power centrally located tools but I hesitate to actually do it. What happens if it ends up in the wrong place in the future? Far easier to use cords and either get some of those commercial rubber "ramp things?" that you see over cords at fairs etc. Heck some duct tape would probably do almost as good.

Think about areas where you may want your florescent fixtures to be dropped down to illuminate a bench or other work area.

Put outlets in the ceiling for cord reels as mentioned and for any garage door openers you may want.

Switch your lights so you can turn on just enough light to run into the garage to grab something or light the entire shop for serious work.

Remember to three way lights if you have more than one entry/exit door.

I use motion lights everywhere. They are part of your anti-theft system. The more difficult you place is to rob, the more likely the robber will hit your neighbor instead. I would also put some pot lights in the eaves perhaps. I also like a good yard light on a pole. It's nice to have this one dusk to dawn in rural areas and maybe controlled from both house and garage in the city.

Definitely have more than one 220 outlet. Look to the future and try to imagine what power needs you may have down the road. I would put a welder plug near my overhead door, if it wasn't handy already...just in case I need to haul the welder outside for something.

What about ventilation fans? Ceiling fans?

My father, (may he RIP) had a few of those adjustable lamps in various locations in his shop, located at stations where he needed lots of light and wanted a directional light. It would have been handy if we had thought to place outlets in a handy location for those to plug into.

That's all I could think of for now. Have fun.

 

[Kevin54]

Extra outlet in the ceiling for a cord reel.
Somebody mentioned having switched outlets high up on the wall for neon signs.
and a 220 plug in the ceiling over the project bay for a future lift!

I put outlets in the ceilings for the same reason. One in each corner and on for a garage door opener. Also one or two high up on the wall for an electric clock or a neon there. Boxes are cheap and the wire already goes that way. It's just a matter of splitting the wire and adding the outlet in. Wall outlets I have at 4' high, ever 6' along the wall. Each wall is on a separate circuit. Just remember that you can never have too many outlets.

 

[duggie]

I thought and planned my garage electrical in detail, so every outlet is where a tool (or potential tool) will be. The tough part is wiring for tools I don't have yet (220v welder, 220v compressor and 220v dust collector) so I used 8 ga. - 40 amp wire for the 220v circuits. The wire size is probably overkill, but I don't want to pull new wire after the garage is insulated and drywalled.

I also plan on having a small garden shed and greenhouse behind my 1 1/2garage in the future ... so I pre-wired a spare 110v and 220v circuit to the back of the garage. I plan on putting my compressor and dust collection unit in the shed when it is built.

Another agreement about installing the speaker and telephone/intercom wire.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Wall outlets I have at 4' high, ever 6' along the wall.

It may be a good idea to put the receptacles an inch or two higher than 4 feet - that way, if you ever have any 4x8 sheets of plywood, sheetrock, etc. stored against the wall they won't be in the way.

 

[anojones]

We just finished our rough-in for our shop and garage. The outlets are at 4' and alternate every other on two circuits around the outside walls. We only put in one 220- but we should have put in two. Our 220 does have two boxes on one circuit, one on the inside wall of the shop and the other facing out that same wall into the garage. That way I can move the welder and use it in the shop or the garage (or put a compressor in the garage outside the shop) and only use one circuit. For placement of garage door power, make sure you place it for the type of opener you'll use (overhead opener or jackshaft-we are using the Liftmaster 3800- so placement is next to the jackshaft). We have a paddle fan and an outlet in the ceiling for a cord reel. Still need to figure out light types, but have all the boxes in place inside and out.
We have no need for low voltage right now- so we ran conduit in the walls with a low voltage box so we can add it later. This future proofs the low voltage so you can pull whatever new wire you need later (fiber optic?).

 

[toadjammer]

I ran a 100 amp panel off of my 200 amp house service. I sheeted my garage with OSB on the inside so I could hang just about everything without searching for studs. I then ran everything in PVC conduit on the surfaces walls and ceiling. Now my shop is fairly small 20x20 so I didn't need more than 2-220 outlets but I have since add a rotoary phase convertor and a new run of conduit for it. The original idea was that I was planning on sealing the osb or covering it with waterproof panels so I could wash it off but that hasn't happened yet, but if it does I can cover all the outlet with weatherproof covers and just hose off the walls to clean. For lighting I have (8) 4' flouresent lights and the garage door is switched on the wall with and outlet the is also used for a drop light.
Toad

 

[ron in sc]

Anything else I should consider?

House's main panel is new, and we have a 200 amp service.

Upgrade to 400 amp service and put power outlets all around garage so you can put whatever you want wherever you want. I'm not sure what I will put where but with the way we did it I have unlimited options.

 

[z28toz06]

I know its a one time expense but wire is big bucks these days. Better off thinking it out like you are doing.

Lift ? 220
Welder ? 220
Lights (never enough)
Compressor 220
Outlets
outlet for 12-18 volt power tool charging station
outlets for general stuff
Outlets
retractable drop ligts
retractable extension cords
heating power feeds
decorations (neon lights, clocks, signs)
gargar door openers

 

[shopforeman]

Upgrade to 400 amp service and put power outlets all around garage so you can put whatever you want wherever you want. I'm not sure what I will put where but with the way we did it I have unlimited options.

Not meaning to offend...but I can't for the life of me imagine anyone needing a 400 amp service for a house and residential garage/workshop subpanel. It's a cinch you should have unlimited options but 400 amps seems like overkill unless you have multiple outbuildings, lifts, etc, etc, etc...

Of course if your heating is all electric...maybe then?

 

[ron in sc]

Of course if your heating is all electric...maybe then?

Garage has electric heat, A/C two ton mini split system, hot water heater, washer and dryer and will have lift. Need lots of power because we also did a 600 sq. ft. addition, master bedroom suite, to house that has it's own separate hot water heater.

400 amp upgrade was not a luxury it was a neccessity.

 

[PAToyota]

Not meaning to offend...but I can't for the life of me imagine anyone needing a 400 amp service for a house and residential garage/workshop subpanel.

This kind of statement seems to keep coming up... Let's see: 100amp 220V for the TIG welder alone; combination of plasma and air compressor is a 50amp and 30amp 220V outlet; woodworking is a 20amp 220V dust collector, table saw, and chances are my father is over as well running other tools; then add in lights and everything else... And yes, this is a residential garage/workshop...

Truthfully, I'm seeing more and more houses with 400amp service - what with computers, entertainment centers, hot tubs, whirlpools, commercial kitchen equipment, and all. Quite a few "McMansions" have 400amp coming in to two 200amp panels with the house divided into zones.

400 amp upgrade was not a luxury it was a neccessity.

Exactly!

 

[Junkman]

Strategically placed outside electrical outlets. Also electrical outlet that is switched from inside with a timer switch for heated tape on the roof if you live in the snow belt where ice dams are common. I would also provide for some higher electrical boxes where you can install emergency lighting. It is bad news if the power goes out in your garage and you have to navigate out in the dark. Also, consider a generator bypass switch so you can put a generator out in the garage in case of a power failure. You might also consider having this installed in the house for the entire electrical system, rather than just the garage. The 200 amp generator disconnects have come down in price, and I have seen them for the $150 / $200 range at the supply house. Also check with the garage door installer and see where he would recommend the placement of the outlet for the door operator, when you get around to installing one. Also install the low voltage wiring for the door operator control where it will be convenient. If you want to have hidden wiring, you will also need a double wire for the eyes that mount at the bottom of the doors, so put those in before you sheet rock. Just remember that you can never have enough lighting or electrical outlets. I installed a few twist lock receptacles in my garage, and they are strategically placed so I can use my large battery charger. Since I have changed that over to a twist lock plug, no one ever asks to borrow it any longer.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

In these days and times, it is not at all uncommon to see two 150 amp panels and dual 150 disconnects off a single 320 amp meter, and 400 amp service is also quite common.

A little 1400 sq ft home down the street from me has the 320 meter and dual 150 panels. House was later expanded so it proved very useful, especially with a septic that includes an air compressor and pump and electric drip field selector valve, three heat pumps and a couple of hot water heaters.

Charles

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I would also provide for some higher electrical boxes where you can install emergency lighting. It is bad news if the power goes out in your garage and you have to navigate out in the dark.

This has been a concern of mine and I keep looking for a couple of exit signs on a clearance at the big box stores, grainger, etc. I already have Fire Extinguisher signs up high pointing down to the extinguishers. Commercial buildings have rules about this for a reason, safety, no reason why we should not attempt to adhere to the same rules for the same reasons.

I installed a few twist lock receptacles in my garage, and they are strategically placed so I can use my large battery charger. Since I have changed that over to a twist lock plug, no one ever asks to borrow it any longer.

Pricey, we use those at work and I cannot imagine an individual buying any, given the prices I see on them at Grainger, HD, etc.

Charles

 

[wilbilt]

All good suggestions.
If you can't decide (or foresee) where everything will be in the future, just run lots of empty 3/4" conduit everywhere.

Make it possible to run a circuit from point "A" to point "B"...or point "Z", or whatever.

 

[bmwpower]

Yeah, this is good stuff. Keep it coming!

What about lights for the outside of the building? Motion or spot? Both? I want a flag on the building...should I have a light down low, aimed up at the flag, or a light above the flag aimed down?

I can't stand motion lights, so I opted without them. I wish I put something on the hanging light outside my man door though. Hard to find the key hole at times when it's dark out.

The reason I can't stand motion lights, is that if I'm out washing the car in the driveway, the damn suckers always seem to turn off at the worst moment. If there was a way to have motion AND normal lighting on the same fixture, that would be cool, but I'm not sure it exists.

As for outlets up high...I didn't do those either. I have enough wire up top that I can always cut one in if I need to. The thing was even with all my supposed planning, I still didn't know what I wanted on the ceiling, so I left them out. Up to you. If you have access to the attic, then you can wait and poke them through exactly where you want later.

 

[wilbilt]

I can't stand motion lights, so I opted without them. I wish I put something on the hanging light outside my man door though. Hard to find the key hole at times when it's dark out.

The reason I can't stand motion lights, is that if I'm out washing the car in the driveway, the damn suckers always seem to turn off at the worst moment. If there was a way to have motion AND normal lighting on the same fixture, that would be cool, but I'm not sure it exists.

It does. Most motion fixtures have a provision for "permanent on". I know one I had just required the switch be flipped on twice within x number of seconds for it to stay on.

 

[antqhdwr]

I put outlets in the ceilings for the same reason. One in each corner and on for a garage door opener. Also one or two high up on the wall for an electric clock or a neon there. Boxes are cheap and the wire already goes that way. It's just a matter of splitting the wire and adding the outlet in. Wall outlets I have at 4' high, ever 6' along the wall. Each wall is on a separate circuit. Just remember that you can never have too many outlets.

i put outlets (4 gang) every other stud at the four foot level....everyone told me it was overkill at the time, but no matter how many friends are working on individual projects at one time, there is never a shortage of outlets in their area...there have been a few times when most of them were filled....also, a half dozen or so in the ceiling and four more external wall mounts....220 is an entirely different beast....

 

[Junkman]

This has been a concern of mine and I keep looking for a couple of exit signs on a clearance at the big box stores, grainger, etc. I already have Fire Extinguisher signs up high pointing down to the extinguishers. Commercial buildings have rules about this for a reason, safety, no reason why we should not attempt to adhere to the same rules for the same reasons.

I have found all my emergency lighting, including the exit signs that I have installed in my wifes store on eBay. I don't think that I ever paid more than $15 for each one, plus shipping. Just be careful with shipping costs, because today, some sellers make their profit on the shipping, not the merchandise.

Pricey, we use those at work and I cannot imagine an individual buying any, given the prices I see on them at Grainger, HD, etc.

Charles

Once again, I have gotten all my receptacles and plugs on eBay. I just search for the part number and watch the auctions that come up for one that has the best buys. You can't be in a rush to buy when you use eBay, since that will cost you a lot more. I have seen the same item go for 20% of the same item selling the day before. All you need is two people that believe that they have to have that one item that day, and the price will go crazy..
Just go to this site and find the device part number that you want to use. Then plug that part number (example L6-20) into the search engine box on eBay, and everything with that in the description will come up. You just have to sort through a little to find what you want...
Check out this auction for 8 L6-30 recepticles....

 

[Aceman]

Anyone considering running power to their garage should have a load calc done. It is far cheaper than just blindly doing a service upgrade because a bunch of people on internet forum told you so. Not trying to offend anyone.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

It does. Most motion fixtures have a provision for "permanent on". I know one I had just required the switch be flipped on twice within x number of seconds for it to stay on.

True, that is the way mine work also. You need them controlled by a switch. Many new installations don't have a switch, and you are stuck going to the breaker to do the on/off/on cycle to make the lights stay on.

Charles

 

[bmwpower]

True, that is the way mine work also. You need them controlled by a switch. Many new installations don't have a switch, and you are stuck going to the breaker to do the on/off/on cycle to make the lights stay on.

Charles

Yea, mine have no switch. I will have to try that on/off thing to see if it works on the lights on my attached garage.

 

[shopforeman]

TMany new installations don't have a switch, and you are stuck going to the breaker to do the on/off/on cycle to make the lights stay on.Charles

Oh man! That would really TICK me off! Who installs a motion light without switching it? That's just dumb, imho. Sure photocell controlled yard lights etc could be wired without a switch, (I wouldn't want it or do it that way myself) but in the case of motion lights you have to switch them. Otherwise every time the power blips you may have to go to the panel to reset your lights. Not to mention you lose the ability to easily make the lamp "always on". GRRR!

 

[gotta56forme]

I don't remember seeing it, but if you are going to have a beer fridge put it on a dedicated circuit without a GFCI outlet. If yer doing everything to code, I believe you will have a GFCI on most of your circuits with a couple of exceptions.

I've been formulating my plan as well and was glad to see I had incorporated most of the ideas presented here.

One more thought, I don't remember if you mentioned what you were using your barn/garage for. If it's for car restoration etc, and you think you may want to try your hand at powder coating small parts, then you will want an oven outlet for the cheap/free used oven/range you buy.

This next thought is open to discussion as I can't vouch for it's accuracy... I was told to plan my service panel layout so that the 'motor' circuit's are on one of the hot legs; and the stereo/entertainment circuit is on the other hot leg in the panel. I was told this would keep small motor static from interfering with the sound system.

 

[Black Diamond]

I don't know if this was mentioned or not yet, but what about coax for Cable TV or A Satellite Dish?

 

[PAToyota]

I don't remember seeing it, but if you are going to have a beer fridge put it on a dedicated circuit without a GFCI outlet. If yer doing everything to code, I believe you will have a GFCI on most of your circuits with a couple of exceptions.

Yes, you don't have to use a GFCI for a dedicated circuit such as a refrigerator or freezer, but it has to only have one receptacle - you can't have an "open" one where something else could be plugged in.

This next thought is open to discussion as I can't vouch for it's accuracy... I was told to plan my service panel layout so that the 'motor' circuit's are on one of the hot legs; and the stereo/entertainment circuit is on the other hot leg in the panel. I was told this would keep small motor static from interfering with the sound system.

Someone else will have to verify that one - I'd think since you are still sharing the neutral you'd get feedback anyway. But do try to balance your loads. If - like me - you have a plasma cutter and an air compressor, you don't want them both on the same leg since they will be operating together.