Garage Wiring Suggestions

[Bull]

I am having a second electrician come to take a look at the barn I built last year. I got a wiring estimate in the winter for about $6k, which seemed steep to me. I'm wondering if people could advise me as to what I will actually need out there in terms of wiring for it to be well lit, and with enough outlets/capacity for current use and maybe future upgrades.

How far apart does one space fluorescent shop lights in 12ft high work bay? Should I go with fluorescent or incandescent in the two parking bays? What are the "best" type of fluorescent lights? How many outlets is enough and not too many throughout the space (24x32)? The upstairs is going to be a "man-town" type retreat: tv, exercise equipment, computer etc. I had planned on going with recessed lights. What is a good spacing on them? How far apart should outlets be in this kind of space.

Does it save money to run wiring in exposed electrical conduit on the finished surface, over drilling through all the framing members?

Any opinions are welcome. Hopefully, I can make sure that I am being reasonable in my wiring needs, and not spending lots of money on stuff I don't need.

 

[Steve in Mi]

While I like your builds construction, diagonal studding, it was a first thought for me as to the complexity of wiring for power without butchering the framework. Personally, I'll forfeit some extra wire to avoid putting in lots of extra holes that only serve to weaken the structure. If you get multiple bids on the job be sure to quiz the contractors on how (where) the wire routing will be done. Be prepared - some won't have a clue as to why you are asking (I hope at least one does). I'm happy I was able to wire my own shop, I'm kind of fussy about how things get done.

 

[Bull]

Thanks for your reply, Steve.

I know that many of these structures are wired...I'd hazard to say most are. George has even built houses with this framing style. I do agree, however, that it presents a somewhat novel challenge for the electrician, who might never have worked on this type of building before.

That's part of my reason for asking about wiring in exposed metal conduit. Might look good in an industrial way, and make the wiring easier.

I'll contact my builder and get his thoughts about drilling through the framing for wiring.

 

[Coach James]

I actually like the look of external wiring and conduit. My welding teacher's shop was done this way and I thought it looked cool. It was also a time saver, in this case, for getting the job done.

Coach

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Problem with conduit is cost. Its steel, and we all know what has happened to the price of steel. I think a stick of 1/2 conduit has at least doubled in price in the past year or so. I'm getting ready to do my lighting installation in a metal building, but I bought 30 sticks of 1/2 last year and about 15 sticks of Unistrut, before the price went up. Just yesterday I bought a 3219 JLG scissor lift from United Rental, they will deliver it monday, so now that I have everything at hand, the project will begin.

Romex will be quite a bit cheaper, if the walls are still open. I haven't found pics of your garage build, but if the structure is complex, the electrical guys will hate you, but its nothing a good sharp bit and a powerful angle drill cannot overcome. If you go with conduit, you will almost need to find a commercial electrical contractor who has power bending equipment to keep the labor cost in line..... but then again, his cost is going to be higher to start with.

Are you subbing off the house, or installing a new service/meter for this building? What kind of equipment do you plan to install (welders, air compressor, etc.) How many square feet do you need to light?

Charles

 

[Bull]

Charles, thanks for your reply. I will be subbing power off the house...I had conduit buried when the excavation was going on. I have a 220 volt compressor, a 110 volt Mig, and a sandblasting cabinet. That's it for the big equipment, although I'd like to leave room for electrical expansion in case I buy more stuff or upgrade what I have.

I need good lighting throughout, especially upstairs and in my rear working bay...the two bays that are primarily for parking don't need to be flooded with light, I suppose. The space is 24x32.

The following picture will give you a view of some of the downstairs framing:

 

[BigChevy80]

WHY ON EARTH would you run the studs diagonal like that?? Think of all the extra time wasted on angle cutting the ends of every stud. Not to mention it'll be a royal pain putting in the insulation. Someone must know something that I don't...

I used metal EMT conduit and ran all the wiring in my garage on the outside of the walls (everywhere except the ceiling, since there is access to the attic above). I like the look of it, and it makes it MUCH easier when re-doing something in the wiring. With those diagonal studs, you'd probably be better off doing the same.

 

[Steve in Mi]

With your stud layout, where would you place/mount the boxes (or the subpanel for that mater) on the diagonal or install vertical struts?

Even with conduit the hangers for wall mount are not a best fit for diagonal studs but probably will work. What is the plan for finishing the walls and ceiling?

I like your shop design. My shop is somewhat similar (barnish type but I don't much care to hear folks refer to it as a barn because it's MY SHOP). Anyway as for romax outlets in my 28' X 48' shop I alternated every 4' down the length of it 120v and 240v outlets. You can think of it as 4' slices thru a loaf 48' long and each slice is a separate circuit, either 120v or 240v. Feed from the panel to the nearest lower level outlet box/slice and from that outlet to an outlet directly above it on the second floor (not daisy chain but rather all pigtail connections). I then drop back down from that outlet on the second floor and travel between floor joist to the other side of the shop (mine floor joist all run the same direction, side to side) and then up to another outlet and then back down to an outlet directly below. On the way across from side to side I added a ceiling outlet in a few of my slices. This reduces the chances that I'll overload a circuit by the shear fact that I can't be in two places at the same time - outlets are physically separated. I have 4 more outlet ckts. in each end wall again alternating 120v and 240v and separating above and below on the same ckt.. I sprinkled in a few extra 120v outlets for work bench locations and 4 (gfic's) locations next to doors outside. Now there are plenty more ckts. available for 40 amp 240v and 60 amp 240v in addition to those 20 amp ckts. above that are located for welding at 3 doors, on-demand water heater in the bath and five 5 HP motor stations. No I haven't used all of these outlets, but I might, and can if I want to. Lights and low voltage wiring is a whole story by itself - I'll spare you that. I got rather long winded here and all I really wanted to offer was the first part about taking slices thru the shop for separate circuits - it has turned out rather well for me and basically the same pattern I used to run my shop air lines in the walls - but I didn't have diagonal studs to deal with.

 

[Bull]

Steve, those details give me something to think about, so I thank you for taking the time to write them all down.

The diagonal studs are a hallmark of the particular barn builder that I used (I prefer the word barn to shop, because I have a special fondness for barns in the first place lol). Their primary benefits are twofold: greater strength than vertical studs, and the resulting elimination of a need for plywood to be attached to the structure prior to the siding. The diagonal studs are so rigid, the frame does not need to be braced with plywood, and the shiplap can be applied directly to the studs, reducing material costs and build time.

The electrician from whom I have a quote, and whom I have used a number of times before, never mentioned his displeasure at the framing style or suggested it would be a PITA for him to wire. As I say, most of these barns/houses have been wired. Perhaps it will cost me more to wire this than a more typically framed house, but if that is the case, so be it. I can offer to do the grunt work for the electrician (drilling holds, installing blocking) to save his time and my money and see if that helps.

 

[Steve in Mi]

the resulting elimination of a need for plywood to be attached to the structure prior to the siding.

The metal Tee bracing installed on a diagonal in this photo (you can only see a portion of it, it runs plate to plate) accomplishes the same task - code bracing without plywood at the corners.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Shop Photos/ShopElectricalcktfeedSW.jpg

 

[Bull]

Whether that metal bracing makes the structure as strong as one wherein all the studs are diagonally arranged such as in a Geobarn, I could not comment because I have not the engineering knowledge.

The diagonal framing of my barn is, besides it's structural value, part of the Geobarn aesthetic. It just sets the building apart from other structures, and I really wanted something different than what most other people have.

 

[Steve in Mi]

part of the Geobarn aesthetic. It just sets the building apart from other structures, and I really wanted something different than what most other people have.

The steel Tee straps are strong enough to handle racking loads better than ply which is generally only applied at the corners. It's of little concern as I have 5/8" Fir T -111 exterior sheeting and 7/16" OSB sheeting on the interior. Sorry but I'm not impressed with the diagonal studs to carry vertical loads as well as conventional construction but it may be enough. Aesthetically they look neat but if you cover them that feature will be hidden - is that the plan, to finish off the interior walls? I thought initially that was the finished look with them installed and left open. If you don't intend to finish the inside walls (sheetrock, etc.) then my vote would be for conduit over romex for wire protection.

 

[z28toz06]

Amherst mass is not the warmest place on earth. I imagine you will need heat and insulation? /how will that studding not be covered up?
\
I love the way it looks, I just wonder how you will preserve that look, keep it exposed and insulate the building?

My initial reaction would be to use conduit for ease of wiring, but as in any other structure I would imagine following code regarding drilling into joists etc, won't cause any considerable weakening of the structure. My suggestion would be to ask the engineer how most others tackle that issue. You can't be the first one with this question. Are there others built somewhat near you that you could inquire about these issues?

 

[Bull]

Steve, it's ok that you aren't impressed with the diagonal framing. Geobarns are a niche market, not meant for everyone. I couldn't be happier with mine, and would not want to replace it with an ordinarily constructed stick building. My rusty knowledge of geometry does tell me that 2x6 studs on the diagonal are plenty strong, especially when combined with the hefty posts and beams and their load-carrying arrangement. As I said, I really am into old barns, and the quality of construction and innovation that builders used to employ. I like the fact that my building does not have any OSB or plywood anywhere except the subfloor, the rest is solid hemlock and pine.

Z28, you are correct that my plan is to insulate and finish the interior, and so the diagonal framing will be covered. I don't need it to be exposed for the rest of my life, although I do enjoy looking at it. I'll know it's under the finish covering, and I took plenty of pictures of the building as it was being built to remind myself of the unique look of the skeleton. At the moment, I am leaning towards finishing the inside with the same type of shiplap that is on the outside, or even salvaged siding from an old barn. That will give me a different look and will allow me to hang decorations and storage anywhere in the interior that I want. Because of the diagonals, I won't have to add blocking to nail the boards to...they'll be over a stud no matter where they are placed.

My original question was not actually about how this type of framing can support wiring. You are correct, Z28, that even in a regular stud-framed building, holes are drilled all through the studs and plates to carry wires. So, drilling through the 2x6 diagonals will not present any type of structural weakening risk. I spoke with one of the builders about this yesterday.

My original question was about how many outlets and lights etc. are enough and not too many, i.e. how should they be spaced and what should I make sure to have installed to take care of my lighting and power needs. You all have given me some information about that so far, but I'd like more if anyone cares to contribute. Perhaps the merits of the Geobarn building style can be discussed in another thread, although I don't feel the need to start one.

 

[Steve in Mi]

the hefty posts and beams and their load-carrying arrangement.

Yup, that is where your major strength is coming from alright. If you do drill holes for wire make every effort to place the holes in the natural axes of the members so as to minimize detracting from the structural integrity of the barn.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

The spacing and number of circuits and lighting is intended on the use of the building. If You plan on staying there till you die, then do it exactly like you want. If you accept the fact that you may, due to job, etc., have to move sometime in the future, do a job way above your requirements, so it will add to the value of the building.

Some people want outlets every five feet or so, some just don't need many. If you are going to make a real workshop out of it, drill press, grinders, parts washers, workbenches, place lots of outlets so if you decide to move or re-arrange the equipment, you will have a place to plug into. You won't need alot of 240v outlets unless you have a 240 table saw or the like. Welding, if you will do any, usually takes place in one area, for reasons of fire control, an an aircompressor will need a circuit depending on location and load.

So, quite truthfully, few of us can off any real suggestions beyond the cravat to put in more than you think you need and do a floor plan on graph paper and work thru it.

Lighting will, again, depend on use of the building. If real task work is going to happen, you will want lots of light. For the average shop, 4 ft T8 flourescents are probably the way to go, for initial cost and future bulb replacement. T5's are becoming popular in industrial locations now to replace Metal Halide, but extremely pricey and the ballast have seemingly had problems on the first generation units. I have Metal Halides I will install but they will easily be changed out at a later time if desired (plug and cord) and they were cheap. They won't get used alot so the power consumption issue of MH lighting will be a lesser consideration. Problem with MH lighting is the size of the fixtures, but I have very high roof (metal building with 16 ft eave) so a fixture that is two foot high is a non issue.

Charles

 

[Bull]

Thanks, George. Looks like I'll have to figure most of it out on my own, then. But, you and Steve both included some details that have helped guide me a bit, so for that I am appreciative.

 

[z28toz06]

Good point Bull! Everybody started commenting on the design instead of answering your question.

My original question was about:
How many outlets, You can get away with about 8 outlets per circuit. Make sure you use 12 gauge wire for the outlets and put some double duplexes here and there, trust me you will be happy later! Make sure they are 20 amp circuits also. Pay attention to where your bench will be and over estimate needs so you can place a strip just under the front overhang of the bench. This will allow you to plug power tools in to a strip in front of the bench, instead of the wall behind the bench. This will keep you from chasing cords out of your way all the time. Have the strip facing out, recessed about 2.5 inches from the lip and it will give you clearance and you wont be knocking them out of the outlet all the time. Keep in mind where your vacuum/compressor/welder/ etc will go, and other appliances and where you will need to have power for them. If you use a vacuum alot, make a place where that will go, maybe a wall mounted unit eventually with a long hose, You can always use a regular sears shop vac and build a holder for that. You can place a switch in the double duplex box, to turn it off and on if you mount it high and not have to reach to turn it on and off. Then you can take it down when you need it, and it's out of the way most of the time.

I would place outlets at least every 4 feet along the wall and keep them up high, mine are just over 4 feet. They will be above the 4X8 sheets of plywood, but accessible from just behind and above the plywood. You will pile $h!t in front of them if you dont and you'll never have on handy when you need it!

LIGHTS & how should they be spaced:
: There really is no such thing as too many! (you can always place them on several switches and turn on just what you need. If not heated, make sure you use quick starts. Place them over your work bench, & just in front of where the hood will open in the bays where cars will be. Place one between the bays also. Place a few outlets in the ceiling for drop lights and retractable extension cords. f doing a detail bay, place a couple in the wall. THey make special fixtures for this.


As far as conduit vs. in wall, I think in wall is worth the time and effort. It's neater, won't collect dust etc. One thing I am doing is make sure I take pictures and some measurements so I know where they are in the walls. If I ever need to drill I can avoid hitting them. I am also placing plywood on the first 4 feet up the wall and screwing it to the wall so I can remove it if need be to get at or add to the existing wiring.

That's all I can think of off the top of me head. I hope I helped some.


T.

 

[Bull]

VERY helpful information, T. I knew I could count on a fellow F-body owner

 

[6768rogues]

That diagonal framing is really freaky. Obviously the weight of the building is being carried by the columns, because the studs are not contributing anything. Looks cool but is a big waste of material and labor to get something with a braced panel effect.

 

[Matti]

I kinda think that the $6k quote was due to the hassle of trying to wire that diagonal framed garage. It just makes things very difficult not to mention the problems with insulating. If you drywall, locating the screw line will be a pain. You have no cribbing around the windows. How do you mount boxes except at the vertical beam location? Surface wiring might make things easier but not less expensive. The wiring cost would be a lot less on a conventional framed garage. It's done now so...

There are some great posts on lighting. The T8 fluorescent seem popular and that is what I will use. The figure of 1 to 1.5 watts per square foot was bandied about. I think 1 watt/square foot seems like it should be adequate. That is what I am planning on. Mount them 1-2' off of the wall so you have light on the sides. At 24 foot wide you will need one or two rows in the middle too. Make sure you have light over your work bench.

I would read your local electrical code for circuit loading. However, around here you can easily put 8 lights on a 15 amp circuit. I believe a 60 watt unit is 0.5 amps IIRC. I would allow 2 circuits for the indoor lighting on a 24x32. I will put mine on at least 2 switches. As for outlets, I would plan where your work area/s will be so you can have outlets for drills, chargers, radio, etc. This goes for your compressor, welding outlet, lift power, fans, trouble lights, etc. You will need separate circuits for heaters, outside power, lifts, welders, etc.

 

[Bull]

That diagonal framing is really freaky. Obviously the weight of the building is being carried by the columns, because the studs are not contributing anything. Looks cool but is a big waste of material and labor to get something with a braced panel effect.

Gosh, now I see it all so clearly! Thanks for the info, I'll contact my barn builder and let him know his architect and engineer approved designs are a useless waste!

 

[Bull]

The wiring cost would be a lot less on a conventional framed garage. It's done now so...

I didn't want a stick built before, and I wouldn't want it done any other way were I to start all over again.

Don't worry about the insulation and drywall or other wall coverings...I'm doing it myself and I have it covered. Really, if someone can't cut angles on the end of insulation batts, there is a problem.

Thank you for the information on lighting, it is helpful.

 

[Thomarann]

I am in the process of building a new 32 x 30 for use as a car shop (911).

After much research, I had the builder put in double gang boxes (4 plugs) at 2' and 4' up spaced every 4'. Along the back wall where the bench goes, each double gang box is wired duplex (like in a kitchen). I also have a 220V-30A outlet on every wall and one of them is 60A for a big-a** welder. There is a 220V-30A outlet also under the stairs that is switched for a compressor. There are a few outlets 8' up for signs, auto-art, etc. I put outlets on every wall outside (GFI, of course) and don't for get outlets in the ceiling for drop down extension cords, ceiling fans, air filter, etc.

Local construction costs are high but I paid about CDN$12 000 for all this to be done.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Gosh, now I see it all so clearly! Thanks for the info, I'll contact my barn builder and let him know his architect and engineer approved designs are a useless waste!

Quite truthfully, if it were an efficient form of construction, it would be in common use. Its post and beam, the posts and beams carry the load, the studs prevent racking of the structure. There is more waste in the construction no doubt (both in time and materials), but that is what you wanted and what you got.....................

As far as wiring goes, surface mounted wiring will probably be easier, and allow for more flexibility in future changes.

Charles

 

[nissan_crawler]

I'm with him on surface mount. My garage was already finished, so when I rewired it, I just ran everything in pvc, and truth be told, it makes life much easier later on for adding/removing things.

 

[Bull]

The greatest amount of waste I see is in the construction of some of these replies, which are of no use to me or anyone else on the board. I did not solicit the opinions of others with respect to the framing of my building. I did my research, made my choice, and love my building for many reasons. End of story.

Thankfully, several individuals have composed replies that actually address my questions about electrical conveniences, for which I am grateful.

Quite truthfully, if it were an efficient form of construction, it would be in common use. Its post and beam, the posts and beams carry the load, the studs prevent racking of the structure. There is more waste in the construction no doubt (both in time and materials), but that is what you wanted and what you got.....................
Charles

 

[Bull]

Nissan, is PVC conduit allowed by code?

 

[nissan_crawler]

Here, yes. Your area, who knows? The inspector had no problems with it.

 

[Bull]

Here, yes. Your area, who knows? The inspector had no problems with it.

I'll look into it, then. Thanks for the idea.

 

[Kevin54]

That diagonal framing is really freaky. Obviously the weight of the building is being carried by the columns, because the studs are not contributing anything. Looks cool but is a big waste of material and labor to get something with a braced panel effect.

I would have to argue on that. If you look at the way the studs are positioned with one end of a wall at a RH slant and the opposite end of the same wall at a LH slant, this would let them work against each other. Way stronger than a vertical stud wall that has no angular bracing. It would be very hard to ever rack the sleletal structure , let alone after adding siding and interior wood, drywall, etc, that would only help to strengthen it.

At the moment, I am leaning towards finishing the inside with the same type of shiplap that is on the outside, or even salvaged siding from an old barn.

As far as wiring, I would run surface mount if you are going to put a hard interior wall in. And like Charles stated it allows for flexibility in any changes. It may cost a little more up front but would be more satisfying in the long run. You could run what you feel is needed or what you think you will need, and if you decide an additional outlet or light is needed it would be a simple process. If everything is in the wall, (especially with the angled studding) everything better be well thought out up front. A clean ran conduit setup can and does look good. What makes it look bad is when people start painting over it time after time.

 

[Bull]

Thanks, Kevin. Conduit is beginning to sound quite appealing to me, especially if it allows easy changes in the future.

 

[Aceman]

If the wiring were to run in the wall can those posts/beams be drilled?

I would not run conduit myself. I would put vertical blocking in for the recep/switch boxes where necessary and run Romex. This is assuming you will be sheeting the wall. I would plan very carefully where future equipment may go and then throw in a few extra receps just in case. If you're running a welder put receps on opposite ends to save buying a long heavy extension cord.

If all else fails you can run conduit on the surface later to add a future recep, if you miss one, but to run it all in conduit now doesn't make sense to me. Unless of course, you just like the look of conduit. In my opinion, the cleanest electrical installation is the one you can't see.

If you installed the vertical blocking for the boxes, the diagonal studs wouldn't bother me. It only takes a few secs to auger a hole, if I had to do a few more than usual, so be it.

 

[Bull]

Thank you, Aceman. You sound like an electrician by trade, perhaps?

I would really prefer to avoid drilling through the posts and beams, unless absolutely necessary. I'm sure that a couple small holes in such large beams would not weaken them, but I'd just prefer if they remained unmolested.

 

[Steve in Mi]

Let me throw out a comment or two that may sound negative but they aren't meant in that way - rather something maybe to consider in the decision making.

I'm neither for or against conduit or romex for that matter. My attached garage is block wall construction and conduit was certainly an easier install for me but still I have some outlet boxes (handy boxes and 4x4's) external to the wall and backfed by feeding wire down thru the block from the attic space. My detached shop I wired with romex except for conduit drops on the steel 4X4 support post. There is no substitute for good planning and it will need to be done for either conduit or in the wall wiring. Folks are quick to say that with conduit you simply fish in more wire to add on at a later date. Well it isn't all that easy sometimes because wires get twisted when feeding the initial packet and often you have pull the original packet to add wire and feed them altogether. Not bad if they all go from point A to point B but that is seldom the case and it makes for lots of work disconnecting devices all the way to the end of the longest run in the packet. Another problem you can run into is when the FILL is already FULL and you need to pull all of it out to increase the conduit size so as not to exceed the FILL. Fill is the maximum number of wires in combination of various sizes permitted in a given size conduit. EMT is bad enough when it comes to size upgrade but rigid conduit will have you pulling your hair out sometimes.

Conduit can be very pleasing to the eye (at least to my eye) when done properly but there are folks that ought never touch a bender for installing the stuff just as there are some hole monkeys that ought to be shot. Both are bad. Just as wire insulation can be skinned up threading it past a kink in conduit the guy on the end of a Hole Hog can essentially destroy the load bearing capabilities of floor joist by drilling oversize holes well below the neutral axis (neutral axis - generally mid height or slightly above center of the joist) simply because it's easier. I've worked as an electricians helper in both Res. and Com. and witnessed too much damage by folks that were either not trained or didn't care - just putting in their time. Oh, the poster that mentioned dust on conduit, he's right. Also, if you choose to paint conduit, know in advance that without the proper pickle (echant) the paint is likely to flake off the galvanize in time - certainly not pretty when this occurs.

Now for the romex option. Remember the planning for what you need in the way of circuits and the approximate location of the outlets, switches etc.. But for those that approach the diagonal wall studs as no problem, I'm guessing you never pulled romex feeders before. At least not very long feeders or you would spot the potential problems associated in this very special barn that Bull has every right to be proud of. Whoever does this job in romex is going to find that making the wire runs in the walls will be very time consuming as opposed to conventional stud walls. Wire runs are best made in straight lines, horizontal or vertical, so long feeders can be pulled thru without haveing to constantly backtrack and hand feed each stud space. The shortest drilled distance thru the diagonal studs will prevent straight pulls - period. One might say, run the wire along the diagonal but did you notice that the diagonals run opposite directions top to bottom in a wall. If you decide to drill only horizontal or vertical paths for the wire for ease of feeding ...removes a little more material, but okay ... then comes the actual hole drilling. Here is a exercise for you. Take a spade bit or an auger bit and start drilling a hole in a piece of wood on a 45 degree angle. Don't laugh. Now do that repeatedly in multiple studs on a 45 and see how straight the line is thru these holes. Now you're laughing. Forgive me Bull for taking liberty here - but is that 6k bid looking any better now?

I was going to say something about drilling the post (my preference would be to avoid it) but I see your reply on that came in after I started off on yet another book. I think in conduit is the way I would go but it isn't up to me, and I'm glad it isn't, because it is a tough call. However it gets wired I hope it is accomplished to the same high standard you have set for the build thus far.

 

[oldgoat]

I really don't see where drilling the holes for Romex is any big deal. I agree that the diagonal studs are stronger which should also mean that you should be able to drill the holes without a problem of structure strength. If anything I would just go back to the builders and ask them.
I would also agree with those that say pre planning will save a lot of future problems and I would go overboard on the outlets and lighting. There is no such thing as too many outlets and too many lights. Just make sure you put them on different circuits and breakers/switches so you can turn on or off what you need. Also think about what things you might be wanting in the shop in the future that will draw heavy loads like welders or bigger compressors and where you might put them and plan for boxes and breakers for that.

 

[Bull]

Steve, thanks for the thoughtful reply. A lot for me to digest in there.

Looks like another vote for conduit, but carefully planned conduit. That makes sense.

 

[Matti]

What did your barn architect and engineer have in mind for wiring? Surely they had some thoughts on this. I would really like to be present to see the conversation between the architect, electrician and drywaller. I vote strongly for rigid conduit and metal boxes unless you plan on having alot of outlets and lights. Personally I don't like the look of conduit as it's so industrial looking but you might.

 

[Bull]

Matti, if there is any drywalling to be done, I'm doing it. It would really be a very simple task to drywall over that diagonal bracing.

As for what the architect and engineer thought about wiring, I'm sure they figured it'd be wired just like any other building, which it CAN. But I do think people here have a point when they say it will cost more to wire it than "normal" because of the additional drilling involved.

Once again, I wasn't asking how it could be wired in a physical sense, but what I should include for electrical amenities/provisions.

 

[indyjps]

interesting framing, but when you go away from industry standard you run into these things. exposed conduit on interior walls would be the most direct approach