Garage wish list

[craven4nascar]

In the planning stage of new garage.
I own a residential construction co. and my hobby is cars and in general, keeping things running. What is your Garage wish list. So far I'm planning 30x40,attic trusses,10 ft. walls, radiant floor heat from outdoor furnace, plumbed for air,oil changing pit,bathroom, tv, wifi,and kegerator. What am I missing?

 

[jcp907]

Off the top of my head...

Vault an area of the ceiling and forgo the pit for a lift.

Duplex electrical every 10' and a plug strip near the workbench

A workbench with a vise

220 on at least 2 walls

Have as much overhang as you can outside the garage door.

Air lines in each corner, at a minimum.

A Door high enough to get the construction trailer in there.

 

[craven4nascar]

I,m torn between a lift vs. pit. I,m afraid the lift will be in the way when I need a wood shop,I can cover the pit. But a lift would be handy rotating tires, pulling transmissions etc..,yet a pit is cheaper and requires less headroom.
I,m still on the bubble on that one!

 

[holdover]

ever worked in a pit? they are not very useful for much other than changing oil. Worked at a garage that had one 50 yrs ago, so no way in mine. Also whenever a car was not parked over it it was a safety issue.

 

[craven4nascar]

what is a good economical lift to purchase?

 

[Jack Olsen]

You can recess some lifts into the floor.

 

[dankicksass]

10ft isn't as tall as you'd think.

 

[-Brent-]

I might take another look at the cost comparisons of a lift vs. pit. The cost of work, forms and material could put your pit at more of an expense than the lift.

As well, there are quite a few different lift configurations and I see them for sale used, regularly, for between 1 and 2K.

As far as my own wish list. My shop expansion will include changing my doors to roll up door, a floor anchor or two, a lift/parking lift that will add to my ability to park my hotrods and work on a vehicle if the need be.

Also, I've got a machinery wish list that I'd like to be prepared for as far as power and its location. Storage and layout is also something I've also been planning for.

 

[Oggy]

We had a huge pit at the motorpool when I was in the army, we rarely ever used it. In addition you have to make sure it's ventilated as many gases/fumes will sit in there. Additionally you'll need light, as there's very little that gets under the car when it's on the ground, even if it's just to see things in the pit. The pit in our motorpool had all of this, as well as pumps/nozzles for the different fluids, but it was too cramped to do things, and you were constantly coming out of it for parts/tools.

 

[jeepjunky]

I would never do a pit, even more so that a lift can be bought for less than $4k with most (that Ive looked at) around $2K.
now for the rest of my wish list:
at leaset 20a outlets and atleast 2 220v
lots and lots of lights
radiant floor heat
hot and cold spigiots and a floor drain
Good luck

 

[racerbob4]

Drill press, lots of tools, and great lighting. We put in a metal roll up door for better security and will install motion dectors and monitoring cameras once the contractor and county inspectors give us our garage. A lift will come in the ext couple of months.

Why underfloor heat.......? Thats very inefficient. We are bring one fairly new ceiling mounted electric heater from the old garage and adding a new one for the opposite wall.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Why underfloor heat.......? Thats very inefficient.

A lot of people will say infloor heat is the way to go. It's great in cold climates. One downside may be that it's not good for intermittent use - it heats up slowly, so you don't want to turn it off during the week and then try to turn it back on for the weekends, it's best left on all the time. On the plus side you can keep the temp setting pretty cool and it's still comfortable for working.

 

[Joe B.]

Agree on the pit.

I wish I had air, hot water & cold water easily accessible on the outside of my garage.

 

[superduty59]

Why underfloor heat.......? Thats very inefficient. We are bring one fairly new ceiling mounted electric heater from the old garage and adding a new one for the opposite wall.

I plan to put this in my pole barn house I'm building. From what I've been reading it is one of the most efficient systems available when used with an efficient heat source. Like 95% efficient.

I would also suggest a lift to a pit. A new lift can be had form $1-4K. A pit would likely cost as much and not be as functional.

 

[craven4nascar]

Thanks for all the pit vs. lift responses.Looks like the lift is the way to go.
As for floor heat, everyone I talk to loves it. They say it dies the melting snow and water overnite,and if your lying on the floor under a car,it's comfy. They also say they retain more heat when bay doors are opened to move car in and out,because the concrete stays warm. As for cost, I am fortunate to have an outdoor furnace for my home that is large enough to heat garage as well and 40 acres of woods to supply it.So I will heat the shop almost free.
Anyone ever do a shop style central vac?

 

[Brad54]

My take on things:
As others have said, forget the oil change pit. It will ensure you can not do ANYTHING but change oil in that bay... you can't jack up the car to change brakes or tires, service a fuel tank, rear axle seals and bearings, front wheel bearings, etc. etc.
Get a lift.
Do a search here for in-ground scissor lifts... a couple guys here have REALLY gone above-and-beyond, and it's awesome.

Do 12-foot ceilings. It'll clear a car when it's on a lift. If you decide to put a bathroom, storage closet or even an office in the shop, you'll have storage room above it with a 12-foot ceiling.

In my shop (32x40) I have a 4x6 closet in the far corner for my air compressor, cleaning supplies, brooms, etc. I also have a 10x10 office up front. I did 7-foot wall studs for those two rooms, giving me an extra foot of overhead storage above. In the office, I won't notice it because I'll always be sitting at my desk. The closet... who cares.

I have two duplex outlets every 4 feet along the long walls. They are divided into 4 circuits (on each wall). Each group of two outlets is divided into A and B... outlet 1A and 1B, outlet 2A and 2B, 3A/3B, 4A/4B, and the same for outlets 5-thru-8.
Outlets 1A-4A are on one circuit, 1B-4B are on the second circuit, 5A-8A on a third, and 5B-8B on a fourth. This way I can plug a fan in the same spot as my coke machine, or a fan next to my heavy-draw halogen spot light, etc. etc. without blowing a fuse.

If you do any powder coating, get a used oven. I also just recently used the oven to pre-heat a hammer head I welded up.

You'll want a sink/wash tub. I have a full-length urinal in my shop, rather than a bathroom... A urinal doesn't require a full room (loss of shop space), and let's face it: toilets in shops get really nasty looking. A urinal seems easier to keep clean. Everyone has to take a leak in a shop... if I need to sit down for something a little more involved, I go into the house and top-off my soda, grab a snack and make an event out of it.

-Brad

 

[craven4nascar]

I hope to be starting this project soon. I may document the progress here,if it looks like it would interest the viewers.

 

[bazzateer]

I may document the progress here,if it looks like it would interest the viewers.

You need to ask?

 

[admranger]

When designing the garage, ensure that you have 4' of space around where the vehicle will be when on the lift. I have that on only one side of my lift and it's a pain when I want to work on the driver's side.

Lights! Plan to have a bunch, then add some.

The electrical outlet advice is excellent. I wish I had added a 220v outlet when I had my lift wired up.

Sink is a must. Look for used restaurant equipment as you can get those cheap (-ish) and they are a lot nicer than the stupid plastic ones you get at the big box home stores. I'm looking to get one to replace my cheapy plastic sink.

10' ceilings are way too short over the lift area if you want a full sized lift that isn't a drive over one. My ceilings are 10' 3" so I have a drive over lift. Back in 2001 it was what was available locally but it is bigger than I need (9k lbs) and that ceiling is lower than I'd like...car needs to go higher sometimes than I physically can.

 

[holdover]

Here is what I built with only one regret that I am fixing right now. 40 X 60 with ½ scissor truss, half garage ceiling height is 10’4.5” then the other half is 15’3” at peak in center. Outside roof pitch is 5/12 inside is 3/12. I have two 4 posts one is next to the wall in the vaulted ceiling section, I stack my ‘65 and ‘67 Mustangs there, lift is a Bendpac HD 9, the other lift a Bendpac HD12 is in the center of the garage, and with all that ceiling height there is no problem lifting most anything.
Electrically everything is in metal conduit with recpt. every 10’ along the walls and every 5’ on the work bench. There are two 200 volt plugs along one wall for the welders (Mig & Stick), where most of the work is done, there are also a dedicated 220 for the compressor and two 220’s for the lifts mounted on the ceiling. Light everywhere
A 25’ work bench is across the back wall with top sections of kitchen cabinets for storage, the other 15’ is tool boxes, lathe, metal cutting band saw and compressor. Two pull points are in the floor about 25’ apart for frame straightening, they are each anchored in about one yard of cement. The slab is 6” in the front/ parking section and 8” in the rear section with the lifts, a bit of overkill, yes, also ½” rebar throughout. Entrance door is 9 X 16 and placed on one gabled end. Plumbed for bathroom and H & C water.
There is a 16’ X 60’ lean-to on the side of the garage, which is now enclosed with windows mounted high up on the wall (pic shows it open). Here was my error, I never factored in all the tools I had, SO a 20’ X 16’ section of the lean-to is going to be the tool/ parts room. Secure, alarmed like the garage with a 4’ wide entry from the garage. In that room will be the lathe, drill press, the 3 welders, work bench, storage shelves, Jacks, transmission jacks, engine stands, bolt collection tool boxes etc etc.

I also have an outside wood stove and heat for the garage will be a ceiling mounted heat exchanger and fan. The garage has a cable for curtains at the break where the ceiling changes, so I only have to heat ½ of the garage. With the tool room in place, there is nothing I would change. The garage can hold 11 cars using the lifts to double stack.

I thought about double doors but decided against the post between them, I have no problem with a 16' door because the garage is so big it allows plenty of room to move around, and the project cars are in the back and don't get moved often, but an 18' would only be a few dollars more

 

[akdiesel]

Look at your equipment you have now.
Extension ladders can be over 12' long. Storing these can be tricky. Some put them on the ceiling (done this and no more). This is a great space for use but not practical when there is other equipment you have to move and sometimes needing two people to lower it. Putting them on the wall horizontally can be good if you have a free wall space (not likely). I store all of my ladders upright along the wall except for the 28' extension which is on the lower wall horizontal.
What I am getting at is a 12' ceiling is good for most things but I wish I had the 14' for the subject mentioned, but I also can not park a motor home due to my 10' tall doors. 12' ceilings also make it difficult for a mezzanine or loft to be utilized in the best way. I have 12'6" ceilings with a loft for storage. It is a great use of space that is out of the way since it is over the bathroom and office area, but it is also 4' tall. maneuvering large items can be a back strain.
I would install two 10' wide doors. This makes ongoing work easier to deal with and still have access to the shop with other equipment.
As for infloor heat. I don't have it and it would be nice, but I also don't lay on the floor. I use a creeper if I don't use the lift. I don't think heat recovery is as fast as forced air.
I would only use one man door. Any more and it adds to maintenance, thieves choice, and wall space taken up. As for windows, a couple is great for natural light. Maybe up high for security if you need to worry about that. Placing the windows on either end of each other can also aid in natural ventilation when needed.
As for the other items mentioned in the earlier posts, they are spot on.