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Garage with gabled roof

CaseyP

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Joined
Mar 13, 2016
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14
Location
Mooringsport, LA
I am in the process of planing and saving to build a garage at my house. I know I want it to be a 16x 32 with an upstairs storage room. My question now is should I build the frame out of 2x4's or would it be better to go with 4x4 post and 4x6 headers? It will be a slab foundation, probably 5" thick. I will be building the shop myself with help from friends. I am wanting to save as much money as possible but don't want to build a building that isn't going to hold up. I have plans for a 2x4 building but not a post style. Any help would be appreciated!
 
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MushCreek

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Jan 14, 2015
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Upstate South Carolina
2X4 is fine for the walls, unless you live in an earthquake or high wind zone. The floor joists for the upstairs will of course need to be much heavier, or use attic trusses.
 

matt_i

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SE Michigan
Personally I would go with stud walls, set on 16" centers. Easier to insulate down the road, should you eventually have HVAC (and we all want it, its just a matter of $ and priorities). Along those lines I would consider going with 2x6 framed walls, yes its a slight additional expense, but also ~50% more insulation. However I believe the 2x4 walls will be plenty strong enough. I am assuming you are going to be sheathing it with plywood or osb after framing the walls. Pay attention to nail schedules, 6" on the perimeter of the panel, and 12" across the "field".
 
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CaseyP

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Joined
Mar 13, 2016
Messages
14
Location
Mooringsport, LA
The plans I have do call for 8ft 2x4 stud walls and 2x6 upper decking, 3/4 ply floor on the second floor. Oh and it's not a gable roof it's a barn style roof. It also gives plans for a wood floor, but gives details for a slab as well. I thought about a wood floor for a few days, just for mobility purpose. But I wouldn't feel comfortable storing a 2500lb truck in it.

I was looking at pole barns and was trying to find a 2 story one but never did, just tall ones. The up stairs will be storage for luggage, storage boxes with clothes, some furniture and other small itmes. The bottom floor I am going to use it to do my woodworking projects and start building a 53 foord f100.

And yes HVAC is planned, it will also be plumbed for air and the compressor will be behind the shop under an awning. It will be more of a man cave than anything honestly.[emoji41]

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CaseyP

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Mar 13, 2016
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14
Location
Mooringsport, LA
2x4 walls on 16" centers are fine, but 2x6" is inadequate for a 16' span for a storage deck.
I was thinking that the 2x6s weren't enough for the upper floor, but that's what the plans call for. I may look into getting different plans. I got these from cheapsheds.com

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Zeke

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Aug 13, 2009
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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
The plans I have do call for 8ft 2x4 stud walls and 2x6 upper decking, 3/4 ply floor on the second floor. Oh and it's not a gable roof it's a barn style roof. It also gives plans for a wood floor, but gives details for a slab as well. I thought about a wood floor for a few days, just for mobility purpose. But I wouldn't feel comfortable storing a 2500lb truck in it.

I was looking at pole barns and was trying to find a 2 story one but never did, just tall ones. The up stairs will be storage for luggage, storage boxes with clothes, some furniture and other small itmes. The bottom floor I am going to use it to do my woodworking projects and start building a 53 foord f100.

And yes HVAC is planned, it will also be plumbed for air and the compressor will be behind the shop under an awning. It will be more of a man cave than anything honestly.[emoji41] That's a lot of ambition for a 16 x 32.

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I was thinking that the 2x6s weren't enough for the upper floor, but that's what the plans call for. I may look into getting different plans. I got these from cheapsheds.com

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Joisting is based on 'live load' requirements. 2 x 6's are not rated for a 16' span regardless. For the lightest live load I can find, you need a min of select structural 2 x 8's, hem fir, 12" centers, but they will span 15'. With 7 inches used up on the top plates you would be cheating 5".

2 by 10's, 16" OC and you could load that sucker to the gills.
 
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CaseyP

Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2016
Messages
14
Location
Mooringsport, LA
Joisting is based on 'live load' requirements. 2 x 6's are not rated for a 16' span regardless. For the lightest live load I can find, you need a min of select structural 2 x 8's, hem fir, 12" centers, but they will span 15'. With 7 inches used up on the top plates you would be cheating 5".

2 by 10's, 16" OC and you could load that sucker to the gills.
I was thinking about 2x8 or 2x10, I want something that is going to last. I am planning on building this myself so right now I'm in the research portion of the build, along with saving the money to do it.

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kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
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14,065
Follow the plans.
They have been double or triple checked to prevent liability suits.
 

Kent Skinner

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Feb 7, 2010
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I know this isn't part of your question, but here's my opinion:

If you plan to put in HVAC, it would be an oversight to use 2x4 studs in your walls. You'll pay slightly more now, but the savings on HVAC costs later should pay that back quickly.
 
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CaseyP

Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2016
Messages
14
Location
Mooringsport, LA
So I called my town hall yesterday to find out how much a permit would be to build a shop and if there were any restrictions on how big I could build it. Well I got a call today from town hall. There are no longer any permits for building in our town/village and there is no restriction on size. This is pretty good news for me.

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Falcon67

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Jun 11, 2009
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Location
Merkel, TX
Follow the plans.
They have been double or triple checked to prevent liability suits.

I'd say "apparently not so much" and agree with what Zeke posted.

>Engineered beams may be more cost effective than 2x10's.
Looking at Menards - $20.46 for a 2x10x16 dimensional #1 SYP vs $60.66 for a 16' I-joist.
 
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