Gas line question

[SeanM]

Xcel (Local energy company in the state of MN) is going to be running a service to my garage next week. The planner said they will be putting the meter on the left side of the garage about 3' in because they can't get there equipment down the side any further. I put my heater up in the rear of the garage so I will need to make a run about 30' back and up to the ceiling.

I don't really want to cut out a bunch of sheet rock to make the run so I was wondering if I could run the pipe along the outside wall along the bottom and then through toward the rear of the garage? If yes, what kind of piping should I use, most suggest running just black iron pipe.

 

[plumbstupid]

You will have to run black pipe on the exterior, and you can transistion to CSST once you get inside. Since it is only 30' I would run all black.

I don't like the look of exposed pipe. I would get into the attic if possible and drill a hole into the top plate of the exterior wall and fish CSST down the wall. You can then cut or drill a small hole on the outside near your meter location, pull the CSST thru and connect to a termination plate. Once you attach the termination plate to the wall it will cover the hole you drilled or cut on the exterior. You will get a nice clean installation and it will look like it was built that way.

 

[SeanM]

You will have to run black pipe on the exterior, and you can transistion to CSST once you get inside. Since it is only 30' I would run all black.

I don't like the look of exposed pipe. I would get into the attic if possible and drill a hole into the top plate of the exterior wall and fish CSST down the wall. You can then cut or drill a small hole on the outside near your meter location, pull the CSST thru and connect to a termination plate. Once you attach the termination plate to the wall it will cover the hole you drilled or cut on the exterior. You will get a nice clean installation and it will look like it was built that way.

The only way I can fetch anything at the top plate is if I cut a hole in the ceiling, this due to my shallow pitch (4/12). Could I run ****** out the wall for the gas company to connect to then run CSST through the wall horizontally and up the wall to the ceiling at the back of the garage?

Obviously the use of nail plates would be necessary on each stud along the run.

 

[SeanM]

Here is an example of what I was pretty much looking to do...

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14051

 

[bczygan]

Ask them what the equipment is. If big like a backhoe, ask if they can use a ditch witch or hand dig. Push them a little, otherwise they do what is best for them, not you. You are the customer. Make them work for you. The service planner is not God, even though they think they are.

 

[SeanM]

Ask them what the equipment is. If big like a backhoe, ask if they can use a ditch witch or hand dig. Push them a little, otherwise they do what is best for them, not you. You are the customer. Make them work for you. The service planner is not God, even though they think they are.

The problem is they would have to dig the rest out and thus they would charge me more. I would hate to start pressing my luck with them as the planner was nice enough to schedule me in before some other jobs so I would avoid paying the winter rate for installation.

 

[bczygan]

Can you get it dug yourself?

 

[SeanM]

Maybe... The part of St. Paul, MN I live in you can't dig too deep without hitting continuous layers of limestone. We had to hydrohammer the perimeter of the ground for the footings.

Long story short, digging *****

 

[plumbstupid]

You can run the CSST down the wall. If you could drop it down the wall from the cieling it would mean drilling fewer holes. You can run CSST exsposed down interior walls as long as it is supported and protected.

I have ran it around the base of walls, so customers could hide it behind molding.

 

[DZL JIM]

What type of siding is on the garage?
Any chance it's vinyl? If so pull the siding, cut the sheating and bury it in the wall from the outside (much as described above) without disturbing the drywall. We've done many repairs/additons this way, it's easy and works great.

 

[SeanM]

I figured out yesterday how I wanted to approach this. Because my block was 8" and my framing framing was 2x6" I had a little gas around the perimeter of the garage. I laid the pipe along that gap. The fit was perfect and if I paint the pipe white later it will blend in quite well.

Because the heater was hung in the rear corner I brought the pipe up in the corner and again, it's hardly noticeable.

The entry was made where the energy company wanted it. directly as it came through the wall I added a shut-off valve and downstream of the valve I added a Tee with one leg capped. I thought this would make it easy if I ever wanted to add an additional NG appliance in my garage.

Tonight I will do a leak down test at 15 lbs/in2 and wrap up the project.

 

[SeanM]

I got the heater mounted up and the gas line ran. I have been able to hold 20psi for a week now but before I have the inspection done I have a question.

I came into the garage with 3/4" pipe and split that to a tee, one leg capped and the other going to the heater. The run to the heater is 43' from the tee to the valve. I did this run in 1/2" pipe which by the gas line chart should be okay for 1/2psi or less pressure.

Although now I am thinking I am cutting it to close. Any thoughts?