Gas pipe

[mark2457]

Hi guys

I'm digging a trench this weekend to run additional power, data lines, sprinkler lines, etc. I want to get a gas heater before the winter, so I figured I'd lay the pipe and put a 90-degree stub up on each end while trenching and have a plumber come and hook it up when I get heater, etc.

Length of run will be about 40 feet. Is there only one size of gas pipe? If not, what size should I use?

TIA

mark

 

[aandpdan]

No. There are many sizes of gas pipe.

What size you need varies depending upon the BTU requirements of the heater, the length of run, and the gas pressure.

 

[The FIB]

I don't know if it is allowable by code, but you might consider running a larger pvc pipe (1-1/4" or 1-1/2") that you could pull a flexible Polyethylene or csst gas line through at a later date.

This way you can get your digging done and figure out what size gas line you will need later on.

The ground is pretty wet right now, looks like things may get a little messy for you.
Happy digging.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Id probably run it in 1" k copper if it were me.

 

[reader2580]

I would just use HPDE gas pipe. You need to figure out how much gas the heater will require. The pipe itself is relatively inexpensive, but the risers on each end are not inexpensive.

It is my understanding that copper pipe for gas underground has to be sleeved in conduit.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I don't think you can use copper directly buried for ntural gas. Pretty sure it has to have brazed connections and must be sleeved. Check your local codes.
HDPE would be cheaper and faster anyway.

Tommy

 

[JohnK007]

I don't know if it is allowable by code, but you might consider running a larger pvc pipe (1-1/4" or 1-1/2") that you could pull a flexible Polyethylene or csst gas line through at a later date.

This way you can get your digging done and figure out what size gas line you will need later on.

The ground is pretty wet right now, looks like things may get a little messy for you.
Happy digging.

This is exactly what I did. Didn't bother checking The Code. Guess I'll find out when I go to sell the house someday. But if I ever have to replace that length of CSST I can simply pull a new length through.

 

[mark2457]

Thanks guys. Sounds like it's better to wait. Digging trench wasn't too hard

 

[CNGsaves]

OP . . . you REALLY . . . . yes Absolutely MUST read prior threads on this subject.
GJ Advanced Search . . . . . buried natural gas

There has been HUNDREDS of these threads and there is ONLY one way to do it . .
. . . . . . DO It ONCE and Do It RIGHT !!

Do NOT follow above Bad Advice with copper or CSST . . . Arrrrggghh!!

Yellow plastic polyethylene buried pipe with anodeless risers on each end that transition from plastic to steel above ground. Plastic pipe will be either FUSED or Stab-Lok connected to the riser. Add black pipe steel shutoff valves on each end, then black pipe steel to connect to T after the NG meter. NG service MUST come into your detached garage above grade.

Pressure test will need done while trench is open before closing up. Also good idea to spray soapy water on all connections to also test for leaks.

Tracer wire in copper and yellow jacket will go in trench after some backfill so line can be traced later. After some backfill, yellow caution tape would be good idea also.

NONE of above done until you properly SIZE the buried yellow plastic pipe (IPS - - iron pipe size) . . . . depending on your Btu heater in detached shop . . AND . . . . the pressure of your NG service. Generally LOW pressure so oversize yellow plastic pipe is needed.

All we know now is 40 ft . . . . . still NEED:
a) pressure of NG service
b) Btu of heater in garage
c) number of elbows in the run to garage
d) any other NG demands in garage later like hot water heater, etc ??

 

[mark2457]

OP . . . you REALLY . . . . yes Absolutely MUST read prior threads on this subject.
GJ Advanced Search . . . . . buried natural gas

There has been HUNDREDS of these threads and there is ONLY one way to do it . .
. . . . . . DO It ONCE and Do It RIGHT !!

Do NOT follow above Bad Advice with copper or CSST . . . Arrrrggghh!!

Yellow plastic polyethylene buried pipe with anodeless risers on each end that transition from plastic to steel above ground. Plastic pipe will be either FUSED or Stab-Lok connected to the riser. Add black pipe steel shutoff valves on each end, then back pipe steel to connect to T after the NG meter. NG service MUST come into your detached garage above grade.

Pressure test will need done while trench is open before closing up. Also good idea to spray soapy water on all connections to also test for leaks.

Tracer wire in copper and yellow jacket will go in trench after some backfill so line can be traced later. After some backfill, yellow caution tape would be good idea also.

NONE of above done until you properly SIZE the buried yellow plastic pipe (IPS - - iron pipe size) . . . . depending on your Btu heater in detached shop . . AND . . . . the pressure of your NG service. Generally LOW pressure so oversize yellow plastic pipe is needed.

All we know now is 40 ft . . . . . still NEED:
a) pressure of NG service
b) Btu of heater in garage
c) number of elbows in the run to garage
d) any other NG demands in garage later like hot water heater, etc ??

Thanks!

 

[HoosierBuddy]

CNG Saves brings up an interesting point.

I'm semi-active on a few different forums and it's interesting how free GJ users are to post questions that have already been answered 1000 times. I've been involved in at least one forum where they expect you to search EVERY question prior to posting and GOD HELP you if it was covered in a posted FAQ and you ask the question anyway.

It seems there would be a happy medium. To those that are asking these kinds of questions, it drives some of us NUTS when we see the same misinformation be given as helpful advice and feel we have to step in and give the correct answer. It would be better for everyone involved if all of us would use the forums search feature when asking for technical advice. I mean really, did the OP think that he was the first guy ever to need help with this topic?

Not attempting to cast stones. Just suggesting we should all use SEARCH first and then post and clearly state somewhere in our post "I tried to search for this and couldn't find an answer!"

Phil

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

OP . . . you REALLY . . . . yes Absolutely MUST read prior threads on this subject.
GJ Advanced Search . . . . . buried natural gas

There has been HUNDREDS of these threads and there is ONLY one way to do it . .
. . . . . . DO It ONCE and Do It RIGHT !!

Do NOT follow above Bad Advice with copper or CSST . . . Arrrrggghh!!

Yellow plastic polyethylene buried pipe with anodeless risers on each end that transition from plastic to steel above ground. Plastic pipe will be either FUSED or Stab-Lok connected to the riser. Add black pipe steel shutoff valves on each end, then back pipe steel to connect to T after the NG meter. NG service MUST come into your detached garage above grade.

Pressure test will need done while trench is open before closing up. Also good idea to spray soapy water on all connections to also test for leaks.

Tracer wire in copper and yellow jacket will go in trench after some backfill so line can be traced later. After some backfill, yellow caution tape would be good idea also.

NONE of above done until you properly SIZE the buried yellow plastic pipe (IPS - - iron pipe size) . . . . depending on your Btu heater in detached shop . . AND . . . . the pressure of your NG service. Generally LOW pressure so oversize yellow plastic pipe is needed.

All we know now is 40 ft . . . . . still NEED:
a) pressure of NG service
b) Btu of heater in garage
c) number of elbows in the run to garage
d) any other NG demands in garage later like hot water heater, etc ??

People have been using k-copper for low pressure gas for years,It holds up to over 100psi of water pressure to feed houses underground so what makes you think it wont hold up to 1/2 psi gas?
Ill be out by fremont working at a lake full of $300,000-$1,000,000.00 plus houses today working.
Every house out there is on propane,and every one of them Ive ever seen there runs k-copper from the propane tanks to the houses.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Thanks!

Have you ever seen what happens when you combine a little static electricity from that junk yellow plastic gas line and a gas leak?

 

[HoosierBuddy]

People have been using k-copper for low pressure gas for years,It holds up to over 100psi of water pressure to feed houses underground so what makes you think it wont hold up to 1/2 psi gas?
Ill be out by fremont working at a lake full of $300,000-$1,000,000.00 plus houses today working.
Every house out there is on propane,and every one of them Ive ever seen there runs k-copper from the propane tanks to the houses.

Please do a search on this. It was covered in detail last week.

 

[Syberia]

Seconding the yellow PE pipe. I just did this a few months ago for an outdoor grill and apart from digging the trench, the process was very easy. Use the stab fittings and the connections literally just push together (like a shark-bite). Running the actual pipe (about 120' of it) took about 10 minutes, and most of that was getting the roll to un-coil into the trench.

The price was 70-ish cents a foot for 1 inch pipe from Ferguson's, and $96 for two risers with fittings already attached from supplyhouse.com.

Here are the risers (the plastic attaches to the fitting on one end, the other end is a regular pipe thread)

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Wal-rich-2886008-1-IPS-Con-Stab-Riser-SDR-11


And this is the pipe, though if you have a Ferguson's near you, they are cheaper and you won't have to pay for shipping.

http://www.hdpesupply.com/mdpe-gas-pipe-coils/

 

[HoosierBuddy]

Have you ever seen what happens when you combine a little static electricity from that junk yellow plastic gas line and a gas leak?

Having fixed many, many leaks on all types of buried gas line, including PE, I have to say "NO" I have never seen the phenomena you are worked up about. Certainly static mitigation during maintenance operations is covered under many training regimens....but I have personally never seen a problem. The industry practice is to use a soapy water solution and rags to mitigate static prior to maintenance. A more effective method would be to completely purge the line with compressed air, verifying the purge with a combustible gas indicator prior to cutting into the line.

PE pipe has been the go-to buried gas line material for lines operated under 100 psi for almost 30 years. If installed properly the only issue becomes keeping people away from it that are digging with backhoes, trenching with trenchers, augering with post hole diggers, or cutting the odd buried tree root with a hand axe (yes....DON'T cut the YELLOW ONE!).

Phil

 

[D45]

The yellow NG poly pipe with Constab "push lock" type fittings are SO EASY to work with and use

Buried black pipe will not work, and NO ONE in my area will suggest using or and will not even consider using black pipe for underground use...........all say it will turn into swiss cheese (holes) in under 5 years

 

[The FIB]

OP . . . you REALLY . . . . yes Absolutely MUST read prior threads on this subject.
GJ Advanced Search . . . . . buried natural gas

There has been HUNDREDS of these threads and there is ONLY one way to do it . .
. . . . . . DO It ONCE and Do It RIGHT !!

Do NOT follow above Bad Advice with copper or CSST . . . Arrrrggghh!!

Yellow plastic polyethylene buried pipe with anodeless risers on each end that transition from plastic to steel above ground. Plastic pipe will be either FUSED or Stab-Lok connected to the riser. Add black pipe steel shutoff valves on each end, then back pipe steel to connect to T after the NG meter. NG service MUST come into your detached garage above grade.

Pressure test will need done while trench is open before closing up. Also good idea to spray soapy water on all connections to also test for leaks.

Tracer wire in copper and yellow jacket will go in trench after some backfill so line can be traced later. After some backfill, yellow caution tape would be good idea also.

NONE of above done until you properly SIZE the buried yellow plastic pipe (IPS - - iron pipe size) . . . . depending on your Btu heater in detached shop . . AND . . . . the pressure of your NG service. Generally LOW pressure so oversize yellow plastic pipe is needed.

All we know now is 40 ft . . . . . still NEED:
a) pressure of NG service
b) Btu of heater in garage
c) number of elbows in the run to garage
d) any other NG demands in garage later like hot water heater, etc ??

CNGsaves,
You are obviously an expert in this field, I certainly am not, which is why I prefaced my "bad advise" with a "I don't know if its allowable by code".

I don't want to beat a dead horse, since this subject has been addressed in prior threads, but the reason I suggested Polyethylene AND csst is because according to some csst manufacturers, their csst is UL rated for direct burial.
Other manufacturers say it should be sleeved in underground applications.

In our suburban neighborhood, the gas company recently replaced all the 50 plus year old high pressure copper gas lines with Polyethylene, they did it by directional boring. They did NOT pressure test while trench is open before closing up. They also did not put in any yellow caution tape.

In our area, probably over 90% of the low pressure homeowner feeds, to things like gas grills and garages, are fed with copper, in service for decades,
without incident.

Like I said, I am no gas expert (except on burrito night), but I did not offer my "Bad Advice" in a haphazard way.

 

[CNGsaves]

^ ^ No problem with saying . . . CSST will "work" as it sorta does. Just until it rusts through . . . then it does NOT work !! Thin wall of CSST is another reason it really shouldn't be used underground or any potentially wet environment, even if "approved" by the manufacturer. It's simply not appropriate solution for underground service between buildings. Lots of failures with houses blowing up from CSST.

With all the proven DECADES of yellow plastic pipe for NG service by gas companies across the country, I'd suggest that OP follow what the pro's use. Take a tour of back lot of any gas company and you'll find Lots and LOTS of rolls of yellow plastic pipe . . . . NOT copper or CSST.

Copper is different story as it does work, and STAYS working long -term. However, it also creates bad combination of combustible fuel connecting two buildings where lightning strike could blow it all up. With copper used as water, the water won't burn but code does require proper grounding of copper water lines within a few feet of entering a building.

With proven reliability and low cost of yellow plastic pipe for NG, there simply is no good reason to not use it as guru HoosierBuddy indicates above.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Having fixed many, many leaks on all types of buried gas line, including PE, I have to say "NO" I have never seen the phenomena you are worked up about. Certainly static mitigation during maintenance operations is covered under many training regimens....but I have personally never seen a problem. The industry practice is to use a soapy water solution and rags to mitigate static prior to maintenance. A more effective method would be to completely purge the line with compressed air, verifying the purge with a combustible gas indicator prior to cutting into the line.

PE pipe has been the go-to buried gas line material for lines operated under 100 psi for almost 30 years. If installed properly the only issue becomes keeping people away from it that are digging with backhoes, trenching with trenchers, augering with post hole diggers, or cutting the odd buried tree root with a hand axe (yes....DON'T cut the YELLOW ONE!).

Phil

People have been blown up while trying to crimp that yellow pipe to slow down an underground leak from the static electricity,Ive seen it happen from a distance.
Now the utility guys always wrap a wet rag around the end of the cut pipe before clamping it down.
Ive hit more of them than Id like to remember,mostly because our local utility co cant locate within 15' of where the actual utility is most of the time to save their f'n lives to put it mildly.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

CNGsaves,
You are obviously an expert in this field, I certainly am not, which is why I prefaced my "bad advise" with a "I don't know if its allowable by code".

I don't want to beat a dead horse, since this subject has been addressed in prior threads, but the reason I suggested Polyethylene AND csst is because according to some csst manufacturers, their csst is UL rated for direct burial.
Other manufacturers say it should be sleeved in underground applications.

In our suburban neighborhood, the gas company recently replaced all the 50 plus year old high pressure copper gas lines with Polyethylene, they did it by directional boring. They did NOT pressure test while trench is open before closing up. They also did not put in any yellow caution tape.

In our area, probably over 90% of the low pressure homeowner feeds, to things like gas grills and garages, are fed with copper, in service for decades,
without incident.

Like I said, I am no gas expert (except on burrito night), but I did not offer my "Bad Advice" in a haphazard way.

I found a 100 plus long section of the buried yellow pipe that was split wide open on the top the length of it that was bored in.
The people on this old dirt street with no other houses on it suddenly was having sewer problems shortly after the gas co did some work in the area.
The drain cleaner kept getting his cable stuck at the bottom of hill right about where it met the road.
We started digging and barely went a foot into the ground when the whole area started to stink like gas.
So we called the gas co to come shut the main down for the area and started digging with shovels to find the sewer tie in.
About another foot down we found the broken clay sewer like with a 2" plastic gas main bored through it continuing down the road with a big slice on top following the length of it where it was drug through the clay,could have blown the whole freaking block up!
If the clowns want to bore that stuff in blindly they should atleast pressure test it before tying it into the system!

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

^ ^ No problem with saying . . . CSST will "work" as it sorta does. Just until it rusts through . . . then it does NOT work !! Thin wall of CSST is another reason it really shouldn't be used underground or any potentially wet environment, even if "approved" by the manufacturer. It's simply not appropriate solution for underground service between buildings. Lots of failures with houses blowing up from CSST.

With all the proven DECADES of yellow plastic pipe for NG service by gas companies across the country, I'd suggest that OP follow what the pro's use. Take a tour of back lot of any gas company and you'll find Lots and LOTS of rolls of yellow plastic pipe . . . . NOT copper or CSST.

Copper is different story as it does work, and STAYS working long -term. However, it also creates bad combination of combustible fuel connecting two buildings where lightning strike could blow it all up. With copper used as water, the water won't burn but code does require proper grounding of copper water lines within a few feet of entering a building.

With proven reliability and low cost of yellow plastic pipe for NG, there simply is no good reason to not use it as guru HoosierBuddy indicates above.

The water service is bonded on the street side of the house meter as a redundant ground for the electrical service,not to protect the water service coming into the house.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

http://www.copper.org/applications/fuelgas/select/rg-specifying.html
http://www.copper.org/applications/fuelgas/pdf/Official_Copper.pdf

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

http://articles.sun-sentinel.com/19...oples-gas-natural-gas-fire-static-electricity
http://ionixgastechnologies.com/static_electric_pinholing_through.htm

 

[reader2580]

plastic gas main bored through it continuing down the road with a big slice on top following the length of it where it was drug through the clay,could have blown the whole freaking block up!
If the clowns want to bore that stuff in blindly they should atleast pressure test it before tying it into the system!

They found quite a few sewer laterals with gas pipe running through them in St. Paul, MN a few years back. One house burned down after a drain cleaner punctured a gas pipe in the sewer lateral. Xcel Energy has and is spending a ton of money to inspect sewer laterals and to fix them.

This has nothing to do with plastic pipe really. They could have bored in any pipe and had the same issue with plugged laterals.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

They found quite a few sewer laterals with gas pipe running through them in St. Paul, MN a few years back. One house burned down after a drain cleaner punctured a gas pipe in the sewer lateral. Xcel Energy has and is spending a ton of money to inspect sewer laterals and to fix them.

This has nothing to do with plastic pipe really. They could have bored in any pipe and had the same issue with plugged laterals.

The clay cut the plastic pipe for the length of where it was pulled through the clay,If they used steel mains like they still do in lots of areas it wouldnt have happened.
Or if they would have atleast pressure tested the pipe after the install it would have have been fixed before it was a problem.
Its all about the utility co trying to save a dime.
They used plastic pipe because it was cheaper material.
They bore it in because its cheaper than trenching it.
They didnt pressure test it after the install which saved money.
If they had blown up a few houses and killed a bunch of people that money they saved wouldnt mean a whole hell of a lot.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

T
Its all about the utility co trying to save a dime.
They used plastic pipe because it was cheaper material.
They bore it in because its cheaper than trenching it.
They didnt pressure test it after the install which saved money.
If they had blown up a few houses and killed a bunch of people that money they saved wouldnt mean a whole hell of a lot.

I disagree.

1. They use PE because it doesn't rust and corrosion leaks are the second largest cause of gas leaks for most utilities. It is cheaper too. I don't deny that.

2. They bore (sometimes) it because it's easier to get property owners permission to buy into boring across their yard rather than trenching it, or because ground conditions require it. When installing gas pipe for the last 24 years, I've never had an instance where boring was cheaper than open trenching. It's generally several times more expensive.

3. They either did pressure test that pipe before turning it on and it passed that pressure test or they were in violation of 49CFR192 and could face a tremendous fine. If you really think they didn't pressure test it, someone could and probably should bring it to PHMSA's attention. ALL plastic gas lines must be pressure tested to 1.5 times the Maximum Allowable Operating Pressure before being placed into service. I generally use compressed air for this. Generally we put 100 PSI air on any new gas line, which allows us a 66 PSI MAOP, which is then further reduced to 60, as that is the max allowed for single regulation at the customer by code.

4. Crossbores are a huge concern that became a poster child for unintended consequences. Typically boring procedures NOW require all utilities in the bore path to be physically excavated prior to the bore and a visual check must be made to watch the bore head safely pass the obstacle. This is a change in the last few years from original practices that caused a lot of cross bores.

I'd also suggest based on your earlier comments regarding locate accuracy that you need to have a long discussion about this with your local utility's corporate Safety Director (or whatever that guy's title is). If you are having those issues he needs to know that.

Phil

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

I disagree.

1. They use PE because it doesn't rust and corrosion leaks are the second largest cause of gas leaks for most utilities. It is cheaper too. I don't deny that.

2. They bore (sometimes) it because it's easier to get property owners permission to buy into boring across their yard rather than trenching it, or because ground conditions require it. When installing gas pipe for the last 24 years, I've never had an instance where boring was cheaper than open trenching. It's generally several times more expensive.

3. They either did pressure test that pipe before turning it on and it passed that pressure test or they were in violation of 49CFR192 and could face a tremendous fine. If you really think they didn't pressure test it, someone could and probably should bring it to PHMSA's attention. ALL plastic gas lines must be pressure tested to 1.5 times the Maximum Allowable Operating Pressure before being placed into service. I generally use compressed air for this. Generally we put 100 PSI air on any new gas line, which allows us a 66 PSI MAOP, which is then further reduced to 60, as that is the max allowed for single regulation at the customer by code.

4. Crossbores are a huge concern that became a poster child for unintended consequences. Typically boring procedures NOW require all utilities in the bore path to be physically excavated prior to the bore and a visual check must be made to watch the bore head safely pass the obstacle. This is a change in the last few years from original practices that caused a lot of cross bores.

I'd also suggest based on your earlier comments regarding locate accuracy that you need to have a long discussion about this with your local utility's corporate Safety Director (or whatever that guy's title is). If you are having those issues he needs to know that.

Phil

Boring is a lot cheaper than trenching/tearing up concrete around here anyway.
The local gas/water co has a claims adjuster that wont even get out of his truck when he sees on site!
This has been an ongoing problem with the utility co for years,The problem is they have better lawyers and plenty of time on their hands.
Theres been more than one house blown off of a foundation over the years by their piss poor locating,or failure to locate a utility at all.
Ive hit stuff that was 10' or more off the mark,the 1st words out of my favorite claims adjusters mouth from mud is always" thats not our fault".
Fortunately I dont do much digging anymore ,But the other poor bastards in town have to deal with them now.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

zmax,

I don't know if you live in some other world where this type of BS is allowed to occur or if your "telling tales"...but in 60 seconds of Googling I found this page:

http://www.sfm.nebraska.gov/programs-services/fuels/pipeline/pipeline.html

which indicates that your State Fire Marshall has the responsibility to insure that both state and federal pipeline safety laws are followed in your state. Next time you have a problem, call them. Phone numbers are right there. It's THEIR JOB to follow up on this sort of thing.

Phil

 

[CNGsaves]

^ ^ ^ ^ Yep, hold them Accountable if they're doing piss poor work.

In Kansas there was huge problem years back where underground gas storage site was actually leaking up under parts of Hutchinson, KS where they also have salt mines. It related to underground storage leak at Yaggy field.
http://www.kansas.com/news/article1071558.html

Few trailer houses were blown up (killing 2) and GasCo had to buy out entire mobile home park. Flare fires around different parts of town were burning for months as they eventually got rid of "lost" methane/NG that had migrated from the "storage field" that was not secure.

NG is not something to mess lightly with . . . Take All Precautions !!

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

zmax,

I don't know if you live in some other world where this type of BS is allowed to occur or if your "telling tales"...but in 60 seconds of Googling I found this page:

http://www.sfm.nebraska.gov/programs-services/fuels/pipeline/pipeline.html

which indicates that your State Fire Marshall has the responsibility to insure that both state and federal pipeline safety laws are followed in your state. Next time you have a problem, call them. Phone numbers are right there. It's THEIR JOB to follow up on this sort of thing.

Phil

Come on over to omaha ne sometime and Ill be more than happy to show you around and introduce you to many plumbing contractors that will tell you the same things Im saying here.
I bid on a giant plumbing/electrical redo on a church compound outside of dwight ne a few weeks back.
Id be willing to bet it covers an area of 50 plus acres with huge buildings scattered all over it.
Theyve been building there for over 5 years with permits pulled for buildings,the state fire marshall finally showed up 4 years after their 1st building was signed off by the state inspectors to tell them they need a sprinkler system in the 1st building.
So hows that for response time from the state fire marshall on keeping up with things?
Im going to take a short trip to take a picture for ya,Ill be rightr back.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

One of the great things about having been a contractor on my own since 1996 and having master plumbers licenses in several differant cities in ne and ia,is I know where the bones are buried from many of M.U.D's **** ups are buried.
Just one of many advantages of living in my own little world as you put it!
Heres a couple for you to get started with,Ill add more as I get them resized.
The 1st 2 pictures are from a house on the 27th harrison st area a house that was blown off its foundation 6-7 years ago when eyman plumbing snagged a gas line that was mismarked.
When they grabbed hold of the gas line in the yard it pulled it loose inside of the house,homeowners got out of house but it took M.U.D over a ******* hr to show up after the emergency was called in.
Im sure the homeowners are really happy to hear that you think the gas co and the fire marshall are right on top of things.
By the way I know the owners of the plumbing shop,it took 5 years for the gas co to pay them off for the damages.
But hey its just my little world I live in.

 

[ambenz]

I have a 660 sq ft garage and I ran 30 feet of 1/2 black gas pipe 48" deep to the garage.
Plenty enough pipe for a heater in a garage under 1000 sq ft. Unless your adding a furnace for above living/workspace, 1/2" pipe should be fine here in the Chicagoland area.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

^ ^ ^ ^ Yep, hold them Accountable if they're doing piss poor work.

In Kansas there was huge problem years back where underground gas storage site was actually leaking up under parts of Hutchinson, KS where they also have salt mines. It related to underground storage leak at Yaggy field.
http://www.kansas.com/news/article1071558.html

Few trailer houses were blown up (killing 2) and GasCo had to buy out entire mobile home park. Flare fires around different parts of town were burning for months as they eventually got rid of "lost" methane/NG that had migrated from the "storage field" that was not secure.

NG is not something to mess lightly with . . . Take All Precautions !!

The last time I actually talked to their head claims adjuster in person was when he showed up after we hit a 3/4" plastic line that was 4' off of the locate.
This was a week after we hit a 2" high pressure main that wasnt marked at all,Even the guys from MUD didnt know where the hell it was coming or going to for 45 mins!
So when that 3/4" line was off that much a week later I flat out lost it on him.
I told him they have 18" and 1/2 the utility for there stuff to be in,I told him if he saw my name on a dig ticket to have a crew standing by!
If the damn line was 18 3/4" off the damn mark from now on I was taking it out of the freaking ground.
I saw him on another dig job about 3 years ago on a gas line they didnt mark,I dug around to expose it and called him to come see another one their guys screwedup on.
He wouldnt even get out of his truck when he saw me walking around the hole in the street.
I can locate things with a couple bent up locate flag rods just as good if not better than their locating clowns most of the time.
They dont even clamp on to the utilities on the outside of houses and follow them out into the street,they punch up a picture on their computer in the truck and locate based off of that.

 

[Aerogt01]

^ ^ ^ ^ Yep, hold them Accountable if they're doing piss poor work.

In Kansas there was huge problem years back where underground gas storage site was actually leaking up under parts of Hutchinson, KS where they also have salt mines. It related to underground storage leak at Yaggy field.
http://www.kansas.com/news/article1071558.html

Few trailer houses were blown up (killing 2) and GasCo had to buy out entire mobile home park. Flare fires around different parts of town were burning for months as they eventually got rid of "lost" methane/NG that had migrated from the "storage field" that was not secure.

NG is not something to mess lightly with . . . Take All Precautions !!

Heh. I used to live on Yaggy Rd, and did when this happened. Got really tired of spelling it out everytime.

 

[Smoker]

I'm actually in the process of running gas to my new shop. 3/4" pe, constabulary fittings on 30" anodeless risers. Black pipe after that into the house and the shop on the other end. Yellow #12 copper tracer wire in the trench and it needed to be buried 18" below grade. All to local city code.

 

[CNGsaves]

I'm actually in the process of running gas to my new shop. 3/4" pe, constabulary fittings on 30" anodeless risers. Black pipe after that into the house and the shop on the other end. Yellow #12 copper tracer wire in the trench and it needed to be buried 18" below grade. All to local city code.

^ ^ ^ Depending on distance to new shop, consider UPsizing your yellow plastic pipe and risers to 1" so you're covered for future needs. Don't forget shutoff valve at both ends.

Utah is the "land of CNG" also with public pumps covering most all of state. An oversized supply of NG to your garage would let you install FuelMaker to compress your own CNG for vehicle refueling !!

 

[stimpy]

Being the OP is in Illinois we have to follow local Code in most Places ,Specially if you live in or around Crook county ( 6 county area) , as some citys will make you tear the line up and also fine you ( and the inspector has to be on site during the pressure test and sign off ) . its easy to find the codes at your city hall ( our charges $5 for the paperwork ( not permit ) when they asked "why" I told them I was thinking on building a Garage and wanted to make sure the contractor knew his stuff or the contractor requested it ( we have had some "out of state" contractors get nailed because of code violations when a inspector visits what Might fly where they are from in the "country" will not fly here )

as For the City OF Chicago they have there own special rules ( work often has to be performed by licensed plumbers or installers ) , but if you have a buddy who is a licensed plumber it can be done right and legally and cheaper ..

.. where I am at it has to be Black pipe period , 18" max copper flex connectors inside on appliances , no poly past the meter ,
only the utility uses POLY on the mains and they trench it in ( were I am at we have high bedrock tables ) , any exposed pipe is black pipe ( they use black pipe to a underground Poly connection to the meter ) , only under driveways do they Directional Bore it . but lately I have seen them cut the drive or sidewalk and trench it in . and the city repaves the cut as its on a utility easement ( "city property" I pay taxes on ) .

 

[Scott r c]

OP . . . you REALLY . . . . yes Absolutely MUST read prior threads on this subject.
GJ Advanced Search . . . . . buried natural gas

There has been HUNDREDS of these threads and there is ONLY one way to do it . .
. . . . . . DO It ONCE and Do It RIGHT !!

Do NOT follow above Bad Advice with copper or CSST . . . Arrrrggghh!!

Yellow plastic polyethylene buried pipe with anodeless risers on each end that transition from plastic to steel above ground. Plastic pipe will be either FUSED or Stab-Lok connected to the riser. Add black pipe steel shutoff valves on each end, then black pipe steel to connect to T after the NG meter. NG service MUST come into your detached garage above grade.

Pressure test will need done while trench is open before closing up. Also good idea to spray soapy water on all connections to also test for leaks.

Tracer wire in copper and yellow jacket will go in trench after some backfill so line can be traced later. After some backfill, yellow caution tape would be good idea also.

NONE of above done until you properly SIZE the buried yellow plastic pipe (IPS - - iron pipe size) . . . . depending on your Btu heater in detached shop . . AND . . . . the pressure of your NG service. Generally LOW pressure so oversize yellow plastic pipe is needed.

All we know now is 40 ft . . . . . still NEED:
a) pressure of NG service
b) Btu of heater in garage
c) number of elbows in the run to garage
d) any other NG demands in garage later like hot water heater, etc ??

What does the "number of elbows" have to do with anything? I have never seen that on a pipe sizing chart in the national gas code book?

 

[brewchief]

What does the "number of elbows" have to do with anything? I have never seen that on a pipe sizing chart in the national gas code book?

It's in there, over 4 fittings and you need to add the equivalent feet for each fitting into your length, Appendix A table A.2.2 in the international fuel gas code has the equivalent feet for each size pipe.