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Gasket removing and cleaning

joe_pinehill1

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Feb 23, 2013
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Northern Virginia
I'm going to be replacing the timing belt on water pump on one of the cars. I don't have a high volume compressor to run a die grinder. I do have a Foredom Tool and a Milwaukee M12 rotary tool. Would these scotch brite wheels work to remove gasket residue, or does anyone have a better way? Or just use a scotch brite pad and clean by hand any area needed?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075C72PGK/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
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finn

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The UP, God's country
No manufacturer, to my knowledge, recommends a rotary tool to remove gasket material from an aluminum surface. Mechanical scraping, although tedious, is safer.

The rotary tools damage the soft aluminum.
 

gatlibs

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Lang released some nice gasket scrapers that I haven't seen in the wild. I have the Craftsman branded set that is rebranded by everyone from Wilde to SK. If scraping gaskets becomes a common thing for you. Just be very careful, slow, and methodical. Scratches defeat your intention, and gouges ruin your life.
 

Wrench97

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Carbide scrapers are the fastest but costly > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005A9T1/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Standard carbon scrapers are cheaper but don't hold a edge very long> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FEJIKA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Rolocs are a good tool but can get a inexperienced user as well as some experienced uses in trouble, on soft material you'll round over the edges preventing a good seal and if used on the block for example there is no good way to clean all the abrasive dust out of the rest of the engine to clean it all out.

What brand and size engine is it? a lot of newer engines use rubber oring type seals.
 

American Locomotive

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Just scrape with a razor blade and use your favorite solvents to try and speed it up. Those die grinders, even with scotch brite pads can remove way too much metal if you're not careful.
 

ToolPolisher

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Jan 21, 2017
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Subarus don't have anything that needs scraping until you get to the exhaust manifold connection at the heads.
 

Wrench97

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A 09 has a timing Belt not a chain no gaskets involved.
A full kit will come with a water pump that gasket is usually not a problem to remove.
 

torqueman2002

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SE Michigan
...
Rolocs are a good tool but can get a inexperienced user as well as some experienced uses in trouble, on soft material you'll round over the edges preventing a good seal and if used on the block for example there is no good way to clean all the abrasive dust out of the rest of the engine to clean it all out.....
Please see GM's Bulletin regarding this type of "Surface Conditioning Disks".
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10082814-5448.pdf
 
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Ign

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Please see GM's Bulletin regarding this type of "Surface Conditioning Disks".
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10082814-5448.pdf

Sure that comes up everytime just like the "oh my God don't weld around chlorinated" but that's speaking of internal engine bearing failure and was allegedly precipitated by cleaning heads with woven abrasives.

I'm far more lax on cooling system stuff. I'm sure the water pump doesn't appreciate it but in most cases cleaning a water pump mating surface is VERY different than a head or intake on the engine.

Obviously, use your own judgement but there have been several water pump surfaces I just couldn't get clean in EVERY spot to my satisfaction, so I do what I can with a scraper and then kiss the problem areas with a woven abrasive if needed. I'll generally try to block off ports with newspaper or tape, and a quick rinse with water theoretically helps to wash away some of that abrasive -- again wp surfaces are generally vertical while upper engine is horizontal and thus more problematic.

And yeah, I know most surfaces don't have to LOOK clean, they just need to FEEL clean to your fingertips, so no I'm not trying to polish every inch to bare, shiny metal.

TL;DR - be smart
 

Ign

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Also OP there's now an M12 RA die grinder, PERFECT for guys who don't have air

And the 2438 sander would work in most situations, too

Ya hardly need air these days but for tires, blowing off machinery and the plasma ;)
 

ChrisLS8

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I will not use Rolocs or wheels to remove gaskets as the abrasive material can make its way into the engine or you remove more material. I had a friend who used a pinstripe removal wheel before and said it worked well but I've never tried it as I use acetone and a carbide scraper
 

L.Cheapo

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Wrench97

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If you are doing a part removed from the engine and can wash it off when finished then there is not a issue(think SB chevy valve cover) the key is to think before doing as always.
 

unslow1

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Illinois
I have Rolocs and still use a razor blade. I'm probably more concerned with throwing debris everywhere as metal removal.
 

tym

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I've used a SuperScraper since Eric O. recommended it a few years ago. A fantastic tool at any price. Use it with care, especially on aluminum, and the results are impressive and easily obtained. I have the SS-5, which is a few bucks less and as it's smaller, it fits into tighter places.
Yep, bought myself a SuperScraper thanks to GJ and it works great.

Failing that, I've used plastic trim removal tools and (carefully) the edge of a pocketknife to remove old gasket material from an aluminum block.
 

Shark Pilot

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Feb 11, 2017
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73
Methylene chloride aka paint stripper (now banned?) will soften and dissolve old gasket residue easily. Just be sure to clean off with brake cleaner when finished.
 
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