Gate battery backup

[ukrkoz]

I know it's not quite a garage question but I have seen some creative minds here.

I happened to buy a property with fancy double swing gate and SEA half tank 110V 2A openers. They have built into driveway sensors and some fancy keypad outside.
Guy spent a lot of money on this but, he stopped short and provided no backup power.
We had 2 power outages in 5 weeks, 8 to 6 hrs each time. That basically makes gate inoperable. Then, someone has to walk 500 ft to the gate with a little special key and release openers hydraulic pressure and swing gates open. As power restores, repeat the process in reverse order.
Also, my wife happens to work night shifts so dragging there at 6 am is.... Plus, if you were locked out, you have to jump the gate sidewall, walk to the house, get the key and so on.
You got the picture.
I went to SEA site and found that they do have a backup setup for this opener. For $1500. Yep. 2 x 7Ah 12V batteries plus some electronics. Original gate installer charges $115 an hour and claims EIGHT hours to plug it in(??)

That said - any feasible suggestions for a power backup? All I need is about 6-8 gate cycles. They have been good about power restoration so far.
My cut off cost is $700. For that, I can discontinue snazzy openers, install 2 MightyMules and set them on solar. Then re-install them back when selling the house.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Solar panel with charge controller and some batteries is probably best idea.

U could probably hook it up yourself. Just need schematic or know where to hookup backup power on the board.

 

[mytimeyet]

Large-ish computer backup power UPS thing?

Deep cycle battery on a trickle with AC inverter with some sort of relay to switch between AC supply and battery backup when AC power drops.

Depends sort of on where the backup source would be located.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Large-ish computer backup power UPS thing?

Deep cycle battery on a trickle with AC inverter with some sort of relay to switch between AC supply and battery backup when AC power drops.

Depends sort of on where the backup source would be located.

The problem with using a UPS is that they often cant handle the in-rush current demands of a motor. Plus power is lost in the conversion process

Having a battery wired direct to the gate motor controller which most likely already has a converter and DC motor since there is an optional battery backup available is more efficient.

 

[Sokoloff]

My gate opener opens a dual leaf, 7' W x 7 H cedar gate (so, heavy), using a 24VAC transformer. That runs to a gate control box that drives everything and holds two gel batteries for power backup.

There's plenty of juice to run the gate from that small transformer and the batteries are only for power backup (I ran it for years without batteries). I paid about $1000 for the whole setup on Ebay. FAAC made the actuators [and may have made the control box as well].

 

[wyliesdiesels]

How big is the motor?

 

[Falcon67]

I just bought a 7Ah 12V battery for one of our 500VA backup units at the house - it's was a whopping $26 at the Interstate store. We lost power on Thursday afternoon (yes, Thanksgiving at 3:45 PM in perfectly nice weather) and discovered the backup battery for the garage opener is also dead.

 

[ukrkoz]

The very good chance is that the gate is actually 24v.
ANYONE can adapt a battery to that.
Open the box and tell us what it says inside for DC. 12 or 24.

A harbor freight jumper box with an hf solar panel is the easiest set up because it will self charge through the 120 outlet, charge through the solar and self regulate. Two of these make 24 volt.
Or just two batteries, a solar charger and a jumper wire to the spot on your circuit board that I'll all but guarantee is labeled as 24v or 12v 'in'.

Or if their circuitry allows it, plug your gate in to the 120v outlet on the jumper and plug the jumper into your wall outlet. Some jumpers do not allow them to charge and work at the same time.

I am yet to see anything in residential motors of this nature that actually WILL run on AC. It's too dangerous. So I had and have same feeling - there is a transformer somewhere in the control box and motors actually run on DC. Indeed, backing THAT should be POC. Off solar ideally, of course, like I have at my rental with Mighty Mule.
I'll take a good look at the panel again.

Best pics I have so far. Silver box in the upper L corner is 110V. Black box down R has leads to motors.

Thank you, very helpful.

 

[ukrkoz]

This? Under circumstance there IS 12/24 DC there

http://www.harborfreight.com/45-watt-solar-panel-kit-10-pc-kit-68751.html

 

[jhelrey]

Cheapest backup I could find was $1300.

Make your own using a trickle charger, a transfer switch, and two batteries. Someone has to have a write up about this.

 

[ukrkoz]

Yeah, I know. I'll get better pic and do some DC power scoping there. It's that I am beat up driving back home in the dark for 1.5 hr every night so I'll get to it weekend.
Basically, even if it's for some bright idea IS 110V, I can still set entire piece on inverter + large deep cycle battery + solar? Simply disconnect main power supply and run it from control box to inverter?
There is another twist to it. I have 2 panels in the main house and 1 in ADU - none have gate marked on any breakers.
Last question.
Set up has control keypad and magnetic sensors in driveway.
Is it safe to presume that it will ALL run off power supply to the control panel?
I figure, sensors are simple wire loops built into driveway and connected to control panel. But the keypad? That's in case I cut central power supply and set it on inverter?
Btw, I do not mind large DC battery and quality inverter and panel. It's couple hundred bucks, quite all right. Better than dragging my ars there in heavy rain at 6 am to pop gate open for wife. Or, jumping gate.

 

[ard]

We have two Elite operators on entry gates into an HOA. Two operators on each entrance, so a total of 4 operators- all have battery backups.

There is a 12V DC battery AND a DC motor. When you add the battery back up to these units it isnt just a battery- you get a battery, controller and a DC motor and a larger belt that allows the DC motor to drive the belt/operator. Normally it is a short belt from an AC motor, to the transmisson- so two pulleys... the back up kit adds the DC motor as a 3rd pully in the drive loop

We just have the gates open on power failure. Gates arent a security function, per se. Just opening them during a power failure is the best solution IMO. Hence we only need power for one opening. It can be set for normal operation, but we have 58 lots and even a few hours of a a power outage would exhaust the battery. Plus given that you may have emergency services, poco, telephone during an outage it makes life easier.

Just FYI

 

[TractorJeff]

Neighbor had an all DC system on solar.(think Northern Tool Screw Drives). Even 2 Solar panels couldn't keep up in the winter. He installed a new 120vac system and it came with a battery backup. I didn't inspect it real close but I believe it is still a screw drive just a different brand. It cost around $1000 to put a separate meter out at the gate for the 120vac. His wife loves it as now she can put up Christmas lights and Decorations out at the gate!

 

[ukrkoz]

OK, should have done this from the get go.
Label says:

220W
1.1A
115Vac

So it apparently is 115V AC supply. hence, the only way I can run it is via satisfying inverter.
I guess, something like 600W but what about amperage?

 

[ukrkoz]

Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PGAG6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

The APS750 also features automatic line-to-battery transfer and an integrated battery charging system for UPS (uninterruptible power supply) applications where an AC power source is present. In UPS mode, the APS750 powers connected equipment while keeping connected batteries fully charged. If AC power becomes unavailable, the APS750 automatically switches to battery power.

 

[Worsedog]

Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PGAG6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

The APS750 also features automatic line-to-battery transfer and an integrated battery charging system for UPS (uninterruptible power supply) applications where an AC power source is present. In UPS mode, the APS750 powers connected equipment while keeping connected batteries fully charged. If AC power becomes unavailable, the APS750 automatically switches to battery power.

That would be a pretty reliable and reasonably priced solution. I read through the reviews and one guy said he gets around five to six hours of runtime for his desktop PC and an LCD monitor with his "WalMart" marine battery.

If you were to pair that with a couple of deep cycle AGM marine batteries you would have a robust solution with not a lot of futzing about. You would of course need a weather proof containment for the inverter and the batteries, but that would be much simpler to produce than trying to make the operator itself run on batteries. Since the current draw while the gates are motionless is likely quite low I think it would insure enough run time to get through your power outages. It has an 8A circuit breaker for the AC output so you also would have some room for the motor startup surge as well.

I looked at SEA's website at the actuators and the controller you have and the backup power supply for them. The actuators and controller are line voltage powered, hence the need for high voltage inverter based backup solution. The only low voltages on your controller are for accessory type stuff, locks buzzers etc.

SEA does make a 24V controller, but that of course would necessitate the replacement of your current actuators, hardly an economical solution.

While it's not my money, if it were, I'd say go for it.

 

[ukrkoz]

Thank you, Worsedog. Yes, of course we need appropriate container but that is hardly an issue. I even have one, large truck tool box that can be easily modified to become rain proof. Will still need some moisture control and I am very good with sealing electrical connections.
If I understood you correct, there is no concern with this system and amperage needed for openers?
Also, again, is it safe to presume that keypad and car sensors built into driveway are all running off the control panel? Sorry, I am rather dumm electrically, only basic stuff. This is natural conclusion, but who knows.
If that's the case, I can simply cut into main AC supply to the panel, extend wires into the inverter enclosure and connect inverter to the AC supply then connect control panel to inverter? And call it a day. We run that gate maybe 4-5 times a day. I can go to junkyards and get several large batteries.... I have 2 DC batteries set on my MightyMule opener at my rental property. Not a problem.

 

[ukrkoz]

While it's not my money, if it were, I'd say go for it.

Company that originally installed the gate quoted me SEA battery backup $1500+tax AND eight hours to install it (why?) at $115 an hr.
I think, it IS a very feasible solution. As far as it works.

 

[minytrker]

I run my automatic gate on a 12v marine battery and have a big solar panel. It was to far away to run electrical so it was my only option. 2+ years with zero issues. When I was buying all my parts going off memory all the gate openers I looked at were 12v even if they ran on 120v.

 

[ard]

Company that originally installed the gate quoted me SEA battery backup $1500+tax AND eight hours to install it (why?) at $115 an hr..

why?

People with driveway gates are rich....and people who call gate companies for service are not DIYers

You really should identify the proper SEA hardware and see if it is avaialble online, before you make the 'build your own' decision.

Ive taken over all our gate work, and we paid 1/2 what the company had charged for parts, and labor is pretty trivial. Im not begrudging them a living, just that you cannot use their labor time quotes as an indicatior as to the acutal effort required....

 

[Worsedog]

The label that you got this information from:
220W
1.1A
115Vac

Is that on the actuator itself or the controller?

I just found the install instructions for the controller board and the fuse that appears to protect the entire set up is 6.3A. I think then you'd be good with the 750W inverter/charger. Or for about $30 more you could bump up to the 1250W model.

 

[ukrkoz]

It's directly on the arm. I'll go take a pic. Actually...

i'll go take good control panel guts pic...

 

[ukrkoz]

*******************

 

[ihateminimumwage]

I googled your part number, and found this spec sheet:
https://www.controlledproducts.com/customer/docs/skudocs/104AC3SO-1A-CSA_Literature.pdf

It shows the power supply as "Power supply 120V-60Hz / 24V", and also lists the "STAR 500" as the appropriate battery backup, so if you get the specs on that, you'll know what's needed.

 

[ukrkoz]

I googled your part number, and found this spec sheet:
https://www.controlledproducts.com/customer/docs/skudocs/104AC3SO-1A-CSA_Literature.pdf

It shows the power supply as "Power supply 120V-60Hz / 24V", and also lists the "STAR 500" as the appropriate battery backup, so if you get the specs on that, you'll know what's needed.

Yes, I posted snip of that spec one post above. Also, that backup is $1500 plus tax.

 

[ihateminimumwage]

Yes, I posted snip of that spec one post above. Also, that backup is $1500 plus tax.

Sorry, I missed that. I did spot that $1500 price tag though, yikes.

 

[Worsedog]

At 1.1A each plus your controller and the loop detectors I still think you are on the right track with the 750W inverter and a couple of AGM deep cycle batteries.

That is of course dependent on how much the spider in the second photo draws.