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Gate Hinges

kwb

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May 1, 2009
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PNW
I am getting ready to build a gate for driveway back to my shop.

This will be a substantial 14' swinging gate weighing about 800# Post is 6x6x.25 Square tube. it will be embedded in concrete to about 4'.

I am not loving any of the hinge designs that I can buy for lack of adjustment to fine tune once the post is set or any settling occurs.

My first thought is to mount Pillowblocks to the post but am a bit worried about the axial load.

Or am I having a brain fart on another simple cost effective to get to a smooth swinging gate?

I should add where this is I cannot weld in place so it has to be some sort of bolt on attachment.
 
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Jazz1

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Jan 3, 2016
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Thunder Bay On.
I made 2 8’ gates for accessing my fenced yard occasionally.. They meet at a removable Centre post. Had i gone 16’ gate I’m sure I would have had to change the post from a 4x4 to 6x6.
 

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kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
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I do not think 4 feet is deep enough for a foundation.
That is a lot of weight on a long lever.
I would double it to 8 feet.

Does it have to be a swing gate?
Look into a sliding or horzonal hinge (RR style) gate.
 
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kwb

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I did a bigger gate 16' and probably 1200lbs with same foundation plan that I am using for this one.

Yes it has to be a swing gate. Honestly I wouldn't be putting in the gate but the driveway is shared with the neighbors and they want it. My only stipulation is that it has an opener because I am not getting out of the truck every time I want to drive into the back half of my property.

I am doing this because they are paying and I don't trust that they would do a good job if left to do it themselves.

I think I have figured out what I need - I am going to use two of the spindles that are used for building a hinged spare tire carrier on a fabricated bumper. They use a tapered bearing and should work well for this application.
 

Sevenhills1952

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Virginia
If I were putting up an 800 pound 14ft gate I'd fabricate some sort of castor wheel on the end. That's a tremendous amount of weight.
My neighbor makes his own hinges by welding pipe along edge of two 1/4" steel plates. Then cuts pipe every 3"-4". Steel rod through pipe.

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Bodj Built

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Moorpark, CA
You can use some beefy heim joints (spherical rod ends). Would only need one upper and one lower, and will allow for adjustment.

you're looking around $135 a set, but these should last you a good while. Keep them properly lubricated and greased and they should do fine in the rain.
https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/125RESET.html

Or you can get the individual parts if you don't want a hex bung. I'd probably go with this
https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/125TARH.html

Easy enough to get a 1.5" hole into the post, pop the bung in, buzz buzz, thread in the heims (run the bolt vertically. Might be obvious, but someone will screw it up haha). Run some 1/4" tabs off your gate to double shear each spherical bearing, and off you go.
 

matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
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SE Michigan
Perfect imo is stainless steel shaft and bronze plain bearings (bushings). Internet suggests keeping P<3000 psi, simple static calculation on the gate to get hinge reaction and to arrive at a LxD area for the bushing.

The gate is low speed, just need to support the weight, thrust washers or flanged bearings. SS won't rust nor the bronze. Cross-drill for grease zerks being mindful of the loss of cross-section and the weakened area of the cross-drill.

Bolt-on is ideal, design ways to shim, space or adjust via jackscrews the hinges in 2 planes so the gate will swing correctly. Despite due-care the tube steel won't be perfect. I would personally go to 3/8"-1/2" wall so the wall doesn't flex where you put the hinges.

Rolling element bearings are of course nice but quickly become a liability outdoors due to corrosion making them unserviceable and the extra design consideration needed to seal tapered rollers for example.
 

mytimeyet

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Apr 27, 2010
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128
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Micanopy, FL
I have a couple of gates at our place that were farm made. Not quite as heavy as yours but perhaps a similar setup would work. The gates have 2 short bits of pipe welded to the side sort of like seven hills described above. On the post side there are two big bits of threaded rod that go through the post with a nut/washer on the inner and outer sides. The rod has a sharp 90' bend on the inside end. The pipe on the gate slips over the 90's of the rods (pointed upwards). Once the gate is resting on the rods the nuts can be cranked as needed to get the end of the gate clear of the ground and level. My gates are similar to these @ 12ft with 6" wood posts, rod looks like 1/2" stock, maybe a tad bigger. https://www.acehardware.com/departm...V9_3jBx2u6QcIEAQYAiABEgLsoPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
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Sevenhills1952

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"I did a bigger gate 16' and probably 1200lbs with same foundation plan that I am using for this one."
What hinges did you you use on that one?
Picture would be nice...I don't think I've ever seen a 1200# gate before.
I've recently put up a few Tarter gates, but 16 and 20ft ones probably 100#s I'm guessing. Even those on a 8"-9" post in cement 3ft down I have to use another 6"-7" post at 45deg. near top down for extra support.
I'm no mechanical engineer but a 800-1200# gate the force would be tremendous I would think.

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csp

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Mar 23, 2010
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Franktown, CO
I think I have figured out what I need - I am going to use two of the spindles that are used for building a hinged spare tire carrier on a fabricated bumper. They use a tapered bearing and should work well for this application.

Having seen a few of those break because they're mounted in single shear, I'd advise against it. That's a lot of leverage on what is basically a modified 1" trailer spindle.
 

Kaizen

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Jan 9, 2015
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New England
I made swing gates a year ago and although they function perfect I’m in the process of putting in a sliding cantilever fence as I’m tired of not having an opener.
Costing me an arm and a leg to get the materials due to my location.
My swing design had several adjustments in the design.
I mounted j bolts in 1200 pounds of concrete. One part with the concrete was 2’x3’x3’ and a back part about 2’x16”x2’ with two additional j bolts in case I needed a brace.
I used a base on my 4x4 and bolted my post to the j bolts. I was able to add some washers to adjust post.
Then used these hinges which are welded on but have adjustment. I’d weld them in the shop if that’s all you can do.
Design worked perfectly. No sag or movement. Wanted to make sure I liked this before I painted.
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Milton Shaw

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Feb 11, 2011
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Triple S Steel in there catalog lists quite a few types of hinges, weld on, bolt on, adjustable etc. They should have something in the ratings you need. They are local for me but have locations in Texas and elsewhere. They also have closers and latches you might need.
 

the king crew

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May 16, 2011
Messages
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Location
SoCal
I got some stainless hinges from this company around 2007. Looks like they're still around. They were really made and very smooth. My gate was light duty recycled redwood but the make hinges for all occasions.
http://www.daro-ind.com/
 
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Bodj Built

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Feb 3, 2016
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Moorpark, CA
I put in a 17' single swing gate. I used 3500lb trailer spindles as the pivots, they work great.



Nicely done. I've done the same for tire carries on truck bumpers. For a gate, this application will be solid and won't break, especially if you have two of these spindles lol.

The only thing is that they are not adjustable if he needs to raise up one side
 

bggrnchvy

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Nov 14, 2011
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Location
Pleasant Hill, CA
Wow. What is anchoring that?


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4x4 .25w post in the ground 8' in a 16" hole, with outriggers just below the surface and 3/4t of concrete encasing it all.

IMG_20170827_152232878_HDR_zpssxihz6ki.jpg

Works great.

IMG_20171109_164958547_zpsinr2zkds.jpg

There is a roller and a ramp plate on the closed side that gives the gate a positive home position.
 
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