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Gate post support

gjz30075

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2010
Messages
223
Location
Roswell, Ga
Hi all,
I've got a newly installed fence around the property with a gate (double door)
on one side. I asked them to make the gate doors slightly bigger to keep
my opening as wide as possible. Works fine up until recently, I now
find the latch binding badly and it's due to the post leaning inward because
it's having a hard time supporting the weight of the gate door.

One side is fine because the fence supports the post but the side shown is the
sagging side. So, my solution is to take a piece of metal strapping with
a 90 degree bend and attach it to the brick wall and then to the gate post,
right about where I have the yellow circle.

What would be the strongest anchors I could get to attach the strapping to
the brick? And the best way to attach? This is where the pulling load will be.
 

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rlitman

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Oct 18, 2010
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24,587
Location
Long Island
Do you have hinges that can adjust to accommodate the sagging of the gate?
Even if you attach the post to the house (which I would discourage you from doing), the gate will sag. You could also put a cable with a turnbuckle on the opposite diagonal.
 
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gjz30075

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2010
Messages
223
Location
Roswell, Ga
The hinges aren't adjustable. They're just lag bolted to the door and the
post.

Do you think whatever anchor bolts I use to attach the strapping to the
brick will pull out eventually?
 

Bondo

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Joined
Dec 22, 2007
Messages
2,549
Location
Greenfield, Maine
The hinges aren't adjustable. They're just lag bolted to the door and the
post.

Do you think whatever anchor bolts I use to attach the strapping to the
brick will pull out eventually?

Ayuh,.... What's supportin' the post Now,..??

I donno how strong that brick facade is,..??

Maybe several smaller brackets to spread the load,....
 

bczygan

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Nov 4, 2009
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DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
Brick is a veneer.

Lag bolt through the brick, and into studs.

Make the U shaped bracket with slots, and bolt to the post so that you can later push the post over and re-tighten if it needs adjustment.
 
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Kaizen

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Jan 9, 2015
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6,948
Location
New England
Did they concrete that into the ground? If not I'd get a longer stick of wood and a **** load of concrete and see if that is enough.
Otherwise I would try 2 or 3 heavy duty L brackets. if you can bend them with your hands they are not thick enough. I got like 9 inch ones for the same reason on my house but I hacked off like 4 inches that went past the 4 inch post, drilled some holes, and lag screwed them in. If that's not a double row of bricks it might pull the brick with it. I'll wait for others to weigh in but I'm guessing its better to spread the load to the house instead of just a lag in the mortar.
 
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gjz30075

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Joined
Mar 23, 2010
Messages
223
Location
Roswell, Ga
Yeah, post (6 x 6) is in concrete. Single layer of brick. It would be
ideal if there was a stud right behind the brick I plan to drill in to. I'll have
to investigate.

Hmm, multiple 'L's. I like that, for now. Let's see what others have to
say.

Thanks all, so far.
 

Skidder

New member
Joined
Mar 28, 2006
Messages
3
Location
South Carolina
Agreed, I would remove the wood post and replace with a steel post. The steel post can be painted to match the fence. If possible I would support the end of the gate with a wheel. This will transmit the weight of the gate to ground.

I would remove the post put in a metal one and underground brace it by using gussets and a leg tied across the opening, under ground in a filled ditch to the other exact post on the fence side. An upside down gantry in a ditch.
Then use adjustable hinges.
Or just rig it up for quick fix however you're able.

There is engineering
There is building
There is fixing
There is inadequate repair.

You'll have to choose.

Code, which I don't care squat about, may keep you from anchoring the post to the wall.
 

theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,109
Location
SE MI
Remove the 6x6 PT wood post and replace it with a 5x5x.250 square steel tube set in 4' of concrete. Before the base solidifies, insert rebar in the interior of the 5x5 and then fill with concrete. Then replace all lag bolts in the gate with hot dipped galvanized carriage bolts.

The gate itself will sag over time, unless you make it out of steel and cover it with wood.

Yeah, I have a similar setup. Over time, lag bolts will pull out. Wood post will fail (broke 4x6 posts). If you attach it to the brick, it will rip the face bricks off the wall. Attach it to the studs and the interior if that wall will start to bow out
 
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CNGsaves

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Sep 26, 2012
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13,233
Location
KS and OK
What's on other side of wall ?? If open studs, then piece of cake to run drill through post near top and put threaded rod into house so it can go through blocker stud with big washer. I'd put piece of angle iron across blocker stud so it spans 2 studs in wall. Tighten up any time that post sags.

I'd guess this cure will be < $ 10 or so.
 
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gjz30075

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Mar 23, 2010
Messages
223
Location
Roswell, Ga
The other side of the wall is just studs and drywall. Unfortunately,
the wife will in NO WAY let me change out the post so I'm stuck there, but
all good ideas.

I like the wheel support idea because eventually there will be a concrete
driveway underneath. Big stud through the wall with an angle iron on the
other side spanning two studs is a good idea, too, for a temp fix (although
with a hole in the brick wall) until the driveway gets in.

Super ideas guys! thanks!
 
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rsanter

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Dec 22, 2007
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18,493
Location
visalia ca
Temporary fix. Put some bricks or blocks to support the fence till you get the concrete driveway in. Then put a wheel on the end of the gate

How much head clearance do you need? How about an archway installed post to post to help hold them apart.

I would not connect to house. It will damage the house either minor or major.

And why won't the wife 'allow' you to replace the post with a steel one?
All the gates I do I always use steel posts and then at least partly fill them with concrete. IMO steel posts are easier to deal with and more durable over time

Bob
 

drmarkr

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Feb 5, 2006
Messages
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Location
Tucson
Remove the 6x6 PT wood post and replace it with a 5x5x.250 square steel tube set in 4' of concrete. Before the base solidifies, insert rebar in the interior of the 5x5 and then fill with concrete. Then replace all lag bolts in the gate with hot dipped galvanized carriage bolts.

The gate itself will sag over time, unless you make it out of steel and cover it with wood.

Yeah, I have a similar setup. Over time, lag bolts will pull out. Wood post will fail (broke 4x6 posts). If you attach it to the brick, it will rip the face bricks off the wall. Attach it to the studs and the interior if that wall will start to bow out

Geezus....

I like how this guy thinks!!!!
 

mkeomotupp

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Apr 30, 2015
Messages
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They're just lag bolted to the door and the post.
4ce2.jpg
 

Kamn

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Feb 9, 2015
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Location
Ontario, Canada
Tie the top of the post to the bricks like you had planned, nothing will happen. The brick wall may be facade but they are still mortared together and tied to the structure of the house with straps, the post only needs a small amount of support to not lean, its not like the wall will be carrying the load. What ever you do tie to the bricks spread it out between a couple of bricks.
 

joseph.a.owens.9

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Oct 22, 2014
Messages
279
I build fence for a living (wire and pipe. No wood) I personally would hang the gate off the fence and have it swing to the post. Maybe tie the first two post together a bit better so it hangs off two post instead of just one. Another thing don't know how well you hinges are but I'd keep one end up a bit to compensate for sag and use through bolts instead of lags if possible
 

ddurrett896

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Mar 29, 2015
Messages
995
Location
VA
I used chain link posts with OZ fence post brackets and wrapped them in wood...Never have to worry about a rotten post!

Go to Tractor Supply or a store like and buy a $60 cattle gate, lag 1x on the top and bottom and attached pickets. The gate will never sag!
 

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dfiler2

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Dec 15, 2014
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NW Minnesota
Maybe a brace of some type over the top, like an arch that would then keep the tops of the posts from moving towards each other, which right now they will both want to do. The arch could even be removable in case you ever need to get a large truck in the back yard.
 
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jpcjguy

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Jan 6, 2014
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1,473
Location
Richmond, VA
Ha! Good question! I guess it'll only work with the gate closed. After
that, it hangs in the air. :eek:

Ha! Come on guys! Everyone knows that fixing a gate post always includes excavating and grading all surrounding land within 500 yards. Just a step in the process! :)
 

drmarkr

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Messages
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Tucson
Ha! Come on guys! Everyone knows that fixing a gate post always includes excavating and grading all surrounding land within 500 yards. Just a step in the process! :)


I DEFINITELY like how this guy thinks.....!!!
 
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