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Gate posts and gates

truckone176

Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
23
I am in the process in removing two sections of my fence and begin fabrication of a drive through gate. Both section will be about six feet and be made out of one inch square tubing with 3/4 inch tubing consisting of the uprights in the field area of the fence. The tubing will be a lighter weight tubing, something like .083" wall tubing. The two posts that I have planned are two inch square tubing with a wall thickness of .188" and will be welded to a plate at the bottom of 1/4" thickness. This plate will have four bolt holes that will correspond with four bolts that are anchored in a concrete base, this will keep the post off of the ground and easier to level. My question is this, do you think that these posts will be adequate or should I consider something else?
 
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kf4zht

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Joined
Mar 20, 2008
Messages
712
Location
Calhoun, GA
How big is the plate at the bottom? I would either make it decent size or plan on some top support (tie to wall, cable, etc)

I did similar. Used 2x4x.25 for the posts and 1x1x.083 for the gate. One side was 6ft, the other 14ft. Sunk the posts into the ground 2' and concreted a 1.5' hole.
 

red92s

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Joined
Dec 16, 2009
Messages
334
At first blush, the posts seem undersized. Also, when surface mounted like you are proposing, only two of your 4 anchors are doing much work at any given time (whichever two are in tension, which will vary depending or if the gate is open or closed). The only way I'd consider surface mounted posts would be if you could tie the tops into a stoutly placed fence posts via cable or threaded rod. Running the posts "through" the existing drive and concreting them in place results is a stronger post, especially if the posts is "surrounded" by the driveway slab.
 
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kf4zht

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Mar 20, 2008
Messages
712
Location
Calhoun, GA
Paint the post first with some heavy duty paint, including inside if possible. I would also either cap the top really well or put the bottom through into gravel so water can drain out.
 
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mike13u

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Mar 1, 2008
Messages
616
Location
S.Florida
I was thinking that sinking the posts in concrete would accelerate the rusting effect.

Steel is fine in concrete. Any reinforced concrete has steel of some kind in it (remesh/rebar). You will need to coat/paint the areas above the cured concrete footer as you would any bare steel that would be exposed to the elements.

When you pour the footers, try and slope the concrete down and away from the base of the steel so that rain water drips in yard and doesn't puddle at bottom of the post.
 

hackwelder

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Jul 12, 2014
Messages
224
I built something similar for a 10' opening but made the gate asymmetrical w/ a 6' and 4' section. The posts and hinge hardware are the galvanized type intended for cyclone fencing and worked OK and I welded the gate hinge part on after grinding the galvanized plating off. The posts are set in concrete and have held up about 8 years so far. I put a roller on the bottom of the heavier 6' section but the 4' section is OK as is. Used 16 ga. ERW tubing and it has held up OK too with paint...anyway looks like this.

IMG_0468.jpg
 
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truckone176

Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
23
Thanks for the replies, actually I was considering a 3" post and my steel supplier suggested the same. When I start I will post some progress pictures. Again, thanks for the help and suggestions.
 
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