Gathering material for welding table. Question...

[dt5150]

so after years of setting my black & decker workmate on fire, i finally decided that it's time i had a proper table for welding and grinding. i've got a good idea of what i want for a table, nothing fancy and nothing too big (don't have the room for a big table).

i'm in the process of getting the materials together. so far, i've got a 4ft x 32" piece of 3/8" plate for the top and enough 2x2 1/4" wall square stock for the legs. so i'm good to go for the legs and top. my question is about what i should use for the rest of the framing. i'm undecided here... should i go cheaper and use some 3" 3/16 or 1/4" angle iron? or, should i go for some square tubing? i was thinking some 1.5" 3/16. price isn't everything, but it's certainly a factor. your thoughts?

 

[Bare Bones Racing]

When I built mine (1/2" 4'x6' plate...4" sq tube legs), I came across some thin 2" sq tube to put down closer to the ground for a shelf under it. Then cut some expanded metal to place in. It makes the legs a lil sturdier too.

Bare Bones Racing

 

[rsanter]

other than looks I think that the legs wont matter as long as you brace it properly and all

my welding table is 4x3 and the legs are 1.5x1.5x.25 angle iron and a 2x2 square tube lower base to attach the wheels.
I love having mine on wheels

you could use pipe, tube, or angle for the legs with no trouble

also, take and add some steel plate to the top of your workmate and make it a weld-mate

bob

 

[dt5150]

thanks for the input guys. i think i'll just use whatever i can find that's cheap, and will be sturdy enough.

already made the "weld-mate".. just a piece of 16 ga. sheet metal over the top

 

[Jack Olsen]

Anything thicker than 1/8" for the legs and supports is going to be overkill. Not that there's anything wrong with overkill. But even 14g would be fine for the legs and crossmembers.

Make sure you set the frame back so you have overhang to clamp to.

 

[dt5150]

thanks. i like overkill.. can't help it. hence the 1/4" 2x2 legs... i think i'll just use whatever 3/16 stuff i can get for cheap. that should do fine.

i did plan to set the frame back, but had some concerns about how far. i would like to do 6" of overhang, but since the top is only 48x32, i don't know if i'll be able to do that. i'm thinkin with the frame set back that far, it might make the table more unstable. how much overhang is "enough"?

 

[PCO6]

It sounds like we're at about the same point. A few years ago I built a dolly for moving around an MGA frame that I was restoring. I knew it was relatively short term so I also designed it to be the base of a future welding table. It measures 3' x 5' and is made of 2.5" x 2.5" x 1/4" angle and has locking casters. I plan to build the structure out of square tubing with the ability to accept 2" x 2" inserts both vertically and horizantally for tools, jigs, etc. I haven't made my mind up regarding the top. I recently picked up heavy duty cabinet to store tools in. They are already full of grinders, hammers, dollies, etc. I just need to build the bench to go around it!

 

[Ign]

Mine's 3/4" plate but I intentionally went with 1/4" wall 4" square for the legs. I simply wanted weight/mass. IMO the heavier it is the less likely it's gonna be to move around on you when you don't want it to.

Of course I'm sure you're gonna do a frame under the plate top. Don't just weld four legs to the plate. For this framework I'd go as heavy as you reasonbly can, it'll help discourage the plate from warping.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Mine is hinged on a 2 wheel dolley that swings up. The legs on the other side are 1" sq tubing. It works fine for MIG welding.

 

[dt5150]

i think i'll swing by the steel yard at lunch today and see what they've got for square tubing, maybe 1.5", probably 3/16 wall if they have it. that should be more than enough i would think. i want the added weight in the frame structure, especially down low, so the table isn't too top heavy. this will be my welding/grinding/banging/everything bench. i've got a 6" vise i'm gonna mount too i'll be yankin and bankin on that from time to time i'm sure. i just don't want it to move around or worse, tip over.

 

[dt5150]

also, i did some thinking about the overhang last night. we have a coffee table that is almost the exact same size as my table top (48x32), i took some measurement of that. it's legs and frame are set back 4" all the way around so i was thinking about building the frame on my table with the same set back of 4". is that going to be enough? too much? i want to be able to clamp stuff when needed, but i don't want to make the frame too narrow or set back so far that it becomes unstable. i'm thinkin it would work out just about right...

 

[Ign]

i was thinking about building the frame on my table with the same set back of 4". is that going to be enough? too much? i want to be able to clamp stuff when needed, but i don't want to make the frame too narrow or set back so far that it becomes unstable.

4" is good; you'd be surprised how far under the lip you'll want to position clamps, and how far they reach. OTOH you'd be surprised how easily those edges will sag over time, esp w 3/8" plate, so it's always a balancing act.

 

[dt5150]

yeah i considered that also. i'll do my best to keep the hammering and banging toward the center of the table, over the braces, so i don't bend the lip down.

 

[dt5150]

i ended up getting some 1.5" 3/16 square tubing. that should make a good, stout frame. that, and the 2x2 1/4" legs should be plenty i think.

 

[z28snksknr]

I'm currently making my table without any top overhang. the table is ~4'x3.5' and I don't forsee only working along the edges of a big regtangular table. 3-4" around the table doesn't do much when you have that much surface to work on, so I'd rather have the support around the perimeter.

 

[dt5150]

i agree with that logic, but i want the overhang so i can clamp things down.

 

[Jack Olsen]

I have one welding table with no overhang, and it drives me nuts. You can get bigger clamps around it, but it's extra work. Given a choice, I'll take the overhang.

 

[racer8432955]

go with all square tube, and paint it. angle iron stuff just doesn't look as pro, in my opinion. i'm sure you'll have / appreciate it for a long time. while looks aren't everything, it sure will be nice to admire during the evening with a cold beverage in hand..

 

[kc-steve]

He-he, fire = no good
over hang = good
square tube = good


With the price of materials these days, I let the metal supplier dictate the size of my table. Although I planned a smaller one, the supplier had a 3/8"x20"x48" scrap plate laying around for $60 (weighing around 100lbs). That was two years ago so I doubt you could find that now. But even a smaller one that I designed would have been much more, maybe twice that, not being scrap metal.

Steve

 

[kc-steve]

BTW, I just remembered, I welded in gusset triangles to support the overhang around the table just in case you think it might need the extra support.

Steve

 

[dt5150]

thanks for the tip. i did think of that actually. they let me pick through their scrap bin and i found some 3/16 triangle pieces i'm going to use as gussets. plus i snagged a few short lengths of some 6x6 1/2" angle iron along with some other small pieces of plate. i plan to use some of that to mount my castors to the legs as well as any other ideas i i get along the way.

 

[mike13u]

Overhang. You need it. Unless you have a pro-style platen from Acorn which cost thousands and has jigging holes/squares everywere for clamping inside, you will DEFINITELY want 3-4'' of overhang. Trust me. I've built several.
Use square tube and make it look as nice as possible. Oherwise you will look at itand think... "I could have done this." "I could have done better for another $100" Spend a couple of bucks and make something your grandkids will be proud to own. You will be glad you did.

 

[dt5150]

thanks mike. i did end up getting all square tubing. it should come out pretty nice i think. it won't be anything fancy or glamorous, but it'll do it's job quite well. i've never had a decent bench or table in my garage... don't know how i've gone this long without one! haven't had a vise either so it'll be wonderful to have one of those too. i won't have to go back in the house and down to the basement to use a vise anymore. it will be so nice to have a table that i can weld, grind, cut, and hammer on! i can't wait to start building.. hopefully this weekend. i'll post up some pics along the way of course.

 

[1931S/X]

i have the same stock pile as you. well i have a ton of 3" sq tube, enough 2" sq tube for a table and decent size chunk of 1/4" for the top, and 20-30' each of 2 1/2 and 3" angle. im going to make a frame for the top out of angle and probably a lower shelf out of angle with probably 2" sq legs. im thinking of making the legs and lower shelf bolt together with 3/4 bolts in case i need to move it, might be a little easier to break it down. i also have a few feet of 2 1/2" square for recievers. for vise or maybe grinders.

 

[dt5150]

i'm gonna do that too, 2" receiver for vise etc.

 

[Jim Stabe]

On the subject of overhang - you should have enough so that your deepest clamp can be bottomed out against the table edge. With overhang you will find that you need a heavier top to prevent bending and sagging as mentioned above. I have a 3/4" top and wouldn't mind having a 1".

A few other things to consider. Drill and tap some holes so you can use milling style clamps to hold work down. I added a drawer to hold clamps. Putting receivers into the table allow you to slide tools in and out that are mounted on 2" posts. I installed 2 woodworking vises so that the table top is completely clear for large projects. I built everything out of material that was scrounged for free or scrap at less than $0.50/lb.

 

[Tom Hintz]

I also have been setting stuff on fire with my welding so decided to kill two problems with the same table/cart. I am building a mobile home for my Lincoln AC-225 stick welder but am also building in some storage and a welding platform. I went with 1"d angle for almost everything, including the top that I made as a grid to give me lots of clamping down options along with being fireproof. see the link below for some photos of the process. I am painting it today and hope to have the complete video up over the weekend or so.

http://www.newmetalworker.com/Howto/linc225cart.html

 

[dt5150]

great stuff guys, thanks!

 

[Ign]

I have a 3/4" top and wouldn't mind having a 1".

x2..

 

[mike13u]

We have so many great photos and ideas for fabrication/welding tables. Admin should make a sticky thread with photos of completed tables members have made. It seems to be a theme that always has interest and is usually one of the most important pieces that one fabricates for their garage.

 

[dt5150]

great idea. it would be nice to have all the info and pics consolidated into one thread.

 

[gsport]

here's mine... found on CL for $50.00

 

[dt5150]

anyone mount some type of loop, or shackle mount etc. so you could hook it up to an engine hoist or something? i think this sucker might be tough to flip over once i get it all put together. plus, if i move or something, i could pick it up with the hoist and put it in my truck. trying to come up with something that's strong and functional, yet clean looking.

 

[gsport]

anyone mount some type of loop, or shackle mount etc. so you could hook it up to an engine hoist or something? i think this sucker might be tough to flip over once i get it all put together. plus, if i move or something, i could pick it up with the hoist and put it in my truck. trying to come up with something that's strong and functional, yet clean looking.

you're right about that.... too heavy to pick up