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Gearwrench xp120 ratchet

Fender1325

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Dec 30, 2014
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Recently picked up a 3/8 gearwrench xp120 ratchet from advance Auto. My buddy works there and gave me a deal on it so I grabbed it to replace my craftsman 3/8 raised panel (worn out).

I just have to say this gearwrench ratchet is a real joy to use. Cleans up well, and the fine tooth action makes it easy to remove bolts faster and easier. I did manage to somehow put fine scratches in the chrome finish on the handle, but it's so small and it's a tool, not a show piece.

It handles strong arming it well too. Had some friends say the fine teeth would break under load. Feels really solid to me and technically, this is a dual pawl 60 tooth ratchet. Acts like 120 and only needs 3 degrees to turn. I compared it to my friend's snap on and it's really not that big a difference. It doesn't slip into neutral like my craftsman, it has a metal direction selector that feels very sure when engaged. I highly recommend it.
 
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PJNJ

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I have the 1/4 and 3/8 flex comfort handle versions. They do work very well and with use seem to be getting smoother. I cleaned and lubed them with Super Lube and some MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) when I first got them also.
:beer:
 

Wamsutta

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I suppose being compared to a raised panel Craftsman it would be a big improvement. I'm waiting for someone to compare the GearWrench to a new 90 tooth SK.
 

gdocktor3

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Just kidding.... Enjoy the new ratchet. I love mine as well. :beer:
 

wrenchr

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Those are nice ratchets, we have a bunch of choices out there and the old fine tooth=weakness garb is still out there but not true in most cases. Not true in the XP120 case at all.
 

Citation

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The xp120 is nice but I prefer the single pawl GW ratchets. Less back drag and a lower profile head. Actually I prefer the Husky version since its got a quick release.
 

Loscaldazar

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Feb 23, 2013
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The xp120 is nice but I prefer the single pawl GW ratchets. Less back drag and a lower profile head. Actually I prefer the Husky version since its got a quick release.

I would agree. The 120XPs have a high back drag that I swear gets worse with time. Either that or mine were wearing out after only a few years of use...
 

CR888

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A bit of 'ratchet tuning' can make the 120xp silky smooth with much less back drag than the 84t ratchets. I've done my stubby 3/8" and it now has way less back drag than the 1/4". Disassemble ratchet remove both springs (look how the pawls sit so you can put them back the same) and cut tiny bit off each spring, like 1 coil first....test....do some more....test.... untill you are happy. If you go to far (easy to do if you don't take a little at a time) you have to stretch the spring. I've modded most of my ratchets and the difference is huge!
 
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Fender1325

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I have zero back drag issues. It is new however. I personally won't modify the pawl springs, I'm not looking for a busted knuckle. I want them seated on the gear tight. Sounds to me like a little oil would do the trick.
 

earlthegoat2

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SE GA
I have the 120xp at home and the 84? Tooth version at work and vastly prefer the older one. However, they are both nice and feel they will stand up equally over time.
 
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Mr_B

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I prefer the 84tooth, only found that out after buying 120xp then using a 84tooth and preferring it, 84tooth is super cheap as sets I got standar and flexi head sets for about price of one snapon, quality not snapon and snapon do make good ratchets but the quality to price on gearwrench set at times is unbeatable for a ratchet that can handle pro use .
 

CR888

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I bought a cheap Chinese 72T 1/4" ratchet off eBay a few months ago to experiment with. I purposely got the cheapest new one I could find which was AU$2.99 delivered from China. It took about 1month+ to arrive lol. But when it did I was quite surprise with its quality, chrome and general build for such a cheap item. I modded the spring a lot further than I'd do on my more expensive pieces and got the back drag down to near nothing. For a test I undid a wheel nut on my truck and used my torque wrench to do it back up to 80lbft of tightness. Got a cheater pipe, a couple of adapter so a 22mm deep socket could be fitted to the $2.99 chincy little thing. It undid the wheel nut fine and I did several other tests with it without any slippage. The only reason some ratchets have more/less back drag than others is how much the spring is loaded. Some tool makers really try to get it right (often Japan) while others put a mass produced spring in there that fits and works and call it done. No amount of lube will change the pre-load of a spring it either need to be made that way or adjusted. I honestly was surprised I did not damage the test ratchet or make it slip, it opened my eyes about the subject a bit.
 
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Fender1325

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I bought a cheap Chinese 72T 1/4" ratchet off eBay a few months ago to experiment with. I purposely got the cheapest new one I could find which was AU$2.99 delivered from China. It took about 1month+ to arrive lol. But when it did I was quite surprise with its quality, chrome and general build for such a cheap item. I modded the spring a lot further than I'd do on my more expensive pieces and got the back drag down to near nothing. For a test I undid a wheel nut on my truck and used my torque wrench to do it back up to 80lbft of tightness. Got a cheater pipe, a couple of adapter so a 22mm deep socket could be fitted to the $2.99 chincy little thing. It undid the wheel nut fine and I did several other tests with it without any slippage. The only reason some ratchets have more/less back drag than others is how much the spring is loaded. Some tool makers really try to get it right (often Japan) while others put a mass produced spring in there that fits and works and call it done. No amount of lube will change the pre-load of a spring it either need to be made that way or adjusted. I honestly was surprised I did not damage the test ratchet or make it slip, it opened my eyes about the subject a bit.

If that's the case, then why are people claiming back drag gets worse over time of ownership? The spring and teeth will only get broken in more and if anything it should be easier, hence my thought of lack of lube, or perhaps dirt in there.
 

PJNJ

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If that's the case, then why are people claiming back drag gets worse over time of ownership? The spring and teeth will only get broken in more and if anything it should be easier, hence my thought of lack of lube, or perhaps dirt in there.

A couple of years ago, I stopped at a small flea market. One of the vendors had two old ratchets - one was a 1/2 SK and the other a 3/8 Blackhawk. They would barely turn in either direction. I took a chance and got them for $8 and $3. When I got home, I took them apart and found they were all gummed up with dirt, etc. After cleaning with brake cleaner, I lubed them with Super Lube on the teeth in the head and MMO on the cartridge. Both are now smooth and work well. So maybe there is something to your idea. :thumbup:
:beer:
 

jumbojak

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A couple of years ago, I stopped at a small flea market. One of the vendors had two old ratchets - one was a 1/2 SK and the other a 3/8 Blackhawk. They would barely turn in either direction. I took a chance and got them for $8 and $3. When I got home, I took them apart and found they were all gummed up with dirt, etc. After cleaning with brake cleaner, I lubed them with Super Lube on the teeth in the head and MMO on the cartridge. Both are now smooth and work well. So maybe there is something to your idea. :thumbup:
:beer:

I had a similar experience with a Fleet branded ratchet a few weeks ago. I bought it "broken" for $2. It wouldn't turn in one direction and was very rough with lots of backdrop in the other. Dissasembled, got the springs in place correctly and it still wasn't smooth until I cleaned the everything really well. Of course, I lost both springs on the second assembly (how do they dissappear so fast?) but experimentation with pen springs has it working again. I still have a little trimming to do on one spring but it's amazing to feel the difference.
 

CR888

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If that's the case, then why are people claiming back drag gets worse over time of ownership? The spring and teeth will only get broken in more and if anything it should be easier, hence my thought of lack of lube, or perhaps dirt in there.
Try something different yourself. What you hear from others is never quite the same as finding something out first hand for yourself. Ratchet don't require a 'break in' at all, any tool wears as it gets old and used.
 

Mr_B

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If that's the case, then why are people claiming back drag gets worse over time of ownership? The spring and teeth will only get broken in more and if anything it should be easier, hence my thought of lack of lube, or perhaps dirt in there.

lack of lube is big cause of back drag, grease some ratchets and difference is massive, springs make difference too as does pawl design type in a particular ratchet.
120xp seems hard get perfect while 84T nice after a proper lube and 72T generic taiwan with 2 pawls come out real good for lubing .
 
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