General Air Tools Questions

[alex123]

Hi,

I'm considering this Husky 30 Gallon air Compressor and have some general questions. This is my first air setup.

1) Air Wrench - I am considering this Kobalt 1000 ft. lb air wrench. I understand the Compressor only puts out 5.1 SCFM and the Kobalt requires 5.9 CFM. Will I be able to get the full 1000 ft. lbs on a full tank though? Like, will I be able to use it at 1000 ft. lbs for a good 5-10 seconds before I lose max torque?

2) This Campbell Hausfeld die grinder has an Average air consumption of 2.8 CFM @ 90 PSI. How long can it be used under load before that motor kicks in? (Assuming in kicks back in at 120 psi).

2b) How long can this die grinder be used before I have to actually stop and wait for the compressor to catch up?

3) I have similar questions as 2a and 2b for the air cutoff tool which is rated at 4.3 CFM

4) Should I be getting a 3/8 hose or 1/2? What's the benefit of one over the other? Does it make a difference in performance?

4b) If a tool calls to use 3/8 fittings, can I still use a 1/2 hose and a coupler to step it down to 3/8? Any drawbacks to doing this?

4c) Does it matter if I get 25' of hose or 50'? I am using the tools/compressor in a small garage setting and don't really need the full 50'. Is there a benefit of using one over the other?

 

[TrailHawkZ71]

For homegamer stuff, that compressor should be more than adequate. I personally would go with a 3/8" hose. You don't really need 1/2" unless your running a 3/4" gun constantly, or even trying to use a 1" gun. There are step-down adapters, but in my experience a 1/2" gun won't ever use the amount of air the 1/2" hose delivers. As far as length, makes no meaningful or noticeable difference. Longer if you think you might need it, but there will be no performance difference either way


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[anndel]

I have a Husky 30 gal compressor and run a Snap-on PT850, IR235, Astro Tools stubby impact wrenches and an Astro ratchet. In some cases I've used up the air and had to wait for the compressor to fill up but not a show stopper as I'm doing something while it's doing so and this was doing suspension and differential work all on 3/8" x 50 ft length Goodyear hose. Your setup should be fine.

 

[sberry]

The actual air consumption is about 4x those numbers. That is an industrial avg number,, not what it really uses. On a too small single stage comp the hose can be a factor on the impact. Shorter or larger is better, a 25 ft hose has 1/2 the line loss of 50 ft. A 1/2 has 1/2 the loss of 3/8. It might not be a factor if its got enough power, might be if it doesnt. This is why 2 stage is designed for mechanics tools,, it can be turned up to compensate for line losses.
Loss is less relevant on the cut off and grinding. These also have only 1/2 the draw of the impact, the hose losses are way less. Try 3/8 first, 1/2 is hard to handle. A problem is 25 ft is quite short and a guy has to be thrifty with placement to get around a car, it can be done.
3/8 is normally used with this class of tools.

 

[alex123]

I have a Husky 30 gal compressor and run a Snap-on PT850, IR235, Astro Tools stubby impact wrenches and an Astro ratchet. In some cases I've used up the air and had to wait for the compressor to fill up but not a show stopper as I'm doing something while it's doing so and this was doing suspension and differential work all on 3/8" x 50 ft length Goodyear hose. Your setup should be fine.

Would you happen to know if you're getting the full 1190 ft. lb the snap on is rated at with your 30 gallon Husky?

 

[alex123]

For homegamer stuff, that compressor should be more than adequate. I personally would go with a 3/8" hose. You don't really need 1/2" unless your running a 3/4" gun constantly, or even trying to use a 1" gun. There are step-down adapters, but in my experience a 1/2" gun won't ever use the amount of air the 1/2" hose delivers. As far as length, makes no meaningful or noticeable difference. Longer if you think you might need it, but there will be no performance difference either way


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Yes, you're right. I think 3/8 is pretty standard for what I'm looking for... at least that's what my findings have been since making the original post earlier today. I'm thinking 3/8 x 50 IF I won't have significant loss to the tool. My compressor is only a 30 gallon Husky

 

[alex123]

The actual air consumption is about 4x those numbers. That is an industrial avg number,, not what it really uses. On a too small single stage comp the hose can be a factor on the impact. Shorter or larger is better, a 25 ft hose has 1/2 the line loss of 50 ft. A 1/2 has 1/2 the loss of 3/8. It might not be a factor if its got enough power, might be if it doesnt. This is why 2 stage is designed for mechanics tools,, it can be turned up to compensate for line losses.
Loss is less relevant on the cut off and grinding. These also have only 1/2 the draw of the impact, the hose losses are way less. Try 3/8 first, 1/2 is hard to handle. A problem is 25 ft is quite short and a guy has to be thrifty with placement to get around a car, it can be done.
3/8 is normally used with this class of tools.

You make very good points. I'll start with the 3/8 x 50, if you think loss won't be significant?

With the setup that I'm proposing, do you think I'll be able to get the full 1000 ft. lbs?

Also, what kind of run time should I expect on a die grinder with this setup?

 

[CGT80]

You will get full power on the impact for a few nuts/bolts. My IR 2135TI 1/2" impact will run fine on a 6 gallon porter cable compressor, but it does fill to 150psi.


The die grinder and cut off tools will be miserable on anything less than 80 gallons, 17cfm, and a real 5hp compressor. You have to pay to play!


I use die grinders very often and have run them on my PC compressor that is probably 5 cfm at 90 psi, on Cman 20 gallon tanks with pumps rated at 7cfm, an old sanborn 60 gallon 10cfm setup, and now a real compressor rated at 17.2cfm at 175 psi and an 80 gallon tank with a real 5hp motor.


At least that compressor will put out 175 psi, but it is only 5.1 cfm at 90 psi.


You can get huge cfm numbers from your hose and tank, but it will only last as long as your tank is big. Your impact or die grinder will get 20-80 cfm, which is more than it needs, but the pressure in the tank will drop quickly. When the pressure drops, the pump will run. The pump will only refill the tank at 5.1 cfm.


For running an impact on a few bolts, the tank will get the job done just fine. My 6 gallon tank at 150 psi was enough to break free a Honda crank pulley bolt with the 2135 TI. The die grinders probably last less than a minute on the same 6 gallon tank. On a 30 gallon tank, you WILL be able to run die grinders, but it will be for no more than a couple minutes at a time, if that. The time limitation really ***** and was bad even on a 60 gallon tank with about twice the cfm of that one.


The more your compressor runs, the hotter it gets and the more noise it makes, and the more wear it gets.


How long do you want to be able to run the tools at a time?


How much work do you plan to do and how often?


What is your budget an space limitation?


Do you have 240v power available?




For many years, I used smaller compressors and got by but it really sucked. Money and knowledge were limiting factors for me. I bought a used commercial grade compressor that was quite old but very high quality. A Westinghouse air brake company two stage pressure lubricated V style. It pulls 168 amps on 240v to start and 30 amps at full pressure and runs on a 30 amp breaker. It is very big and heavy, but sounds like a car or truck idling and I never run out of air.


For occasional repairs around home, that compressor would get you going, if you are patient. If you plan to work often and run tools for long periods for some serious hobby or pro use, you will want a good used compressor that is bigger if on a budget.



Some people find good prices on used machines, but in SoCal deals are not as common. I paid $700 and had to do some work to the one I got. A new motor for mine would run 400-500 bucks, a new tank 800-900 bucks, and a similar pump would be $1500+, while some new old stock pumps on ebay go for $1200 each. A new one to match mine would be $2500 minimum and likely closer to $3,000 to $3500. As much as that $700 hurt, I am very happy to have snagged it. My use is serious hobby and pro use with running a plasma table, blast cabinet, and very often use of die grinders. Sometimes you can grab a used compressor like mine for a couple hundred bucks. The one you linked to would be ok if you are just starting out with limited air tool use and want to see how you grow and keep an eye out for something better as it comes available or as you learn what you want for the future. Some people go all in to start. It's all up to you.

 

[sberry]

These tools are rated at 90# in,,, at the tool. A new 3/8 hose can have near a # a foot loss with a heavy 1/2 air gun which has around 25 cfm demand for full power. It might be a little less than a pound loss but it takes right around 135 or so to deliver 90@ 25 down 50 ft. This is all generalization, its in the ballpark though depending on gun and even hose. I got some been on 24/7 for decades, they are bigger than 3/8 now, especially rubber.
Now that I think about it not sure I could get full down 50ft. Seems it was over a # loss . With 15 ft wasn't a problem.

 

[sberry]

All this can be moot, doesn't really matter as long as it works.

 

[Wamsutta]

Get the 1/2'' hose.

 

[alex123]

You will get full power on the impact for a few nuts/bolts. My IR 2135TI 1/2" impact will run fine on a 6 gallon porter cable compressor, but it does fill to 150psi.


The die grinder and cut off tools will be miserable on anything less than 80 gallons, 17cfm, and a real 5hp compressor. You have to pay to play!


I use die grinders very often and have run them on my PC compressor that is probably 5 cfm at 90 psi, on Cman 20 gallon tanks with pumps rated at 7cfm, an old sanborn 60 gallon 10cfm setup, and now a real compressor rated at 17.2cfm at 175 psi and an 80 gallon tank with a real 5hp motor.


At least that compressor will put out 175 psi, but it is only 5.1 cfm at 90 psi.


You can get huge cfm numbers from your hose and tank, but it will only last as long as your tank is big. Your impact or die grinder will get 20-80 cfm, which is more than it needs, but the pressure in the tank will drop quickly. When the pressure drops, the pump will run. The pump will only refill the tank at 5.1 cfm.


For running an impact on a few bolts, the tank will get the job done just fine. My 6 gallon tank at 150 psi was enough to break free a Honda crank pulley bolt with the 2135 TI. The die grinders probably last less than a minute on the same 6 gallon tank. On a 30 gallon tank, you WILL be able to run die grinders, but it will be for no more than a couple minutes at a time, if that. The time limitation really ***** and was bad even on a 60 gallon tank with about twice the cfm of that one.


The more your compressor runs, the hotter it gets and the more noise it makes, and the more wear it gets.


How long do you want to be able to run the tools at a time?


How much work do you plan to do and how often?


What is your budget an space limitation?


Do you have 240v power available?




For many years, I used smaller compressors and got by but it really sucked. Money and knowledge were limiting factors for me. I bought a used commercial grade compressor that was quite old but very high quality. A Westinghouse air brake company two stage pressure lubricated V style. It pulls 168 amps on 240v to start and 30 amps at full pressure and runs on a 30 amp breaker. It is very big and heavy, but sounds like a car or truck idling and I never run out of air.


For occasional repairs around home, that compressor would get you going, if you are patient. If you plan to work often and run tools for long periods for some serious hobby or pro use, you will want a good used compressor that is bigger if on a budget.



Some people find good prices on used machines, but in SoCal deals are not as common. I paid $700 and had to do some work to the one I got. A new motor for mine would run 400-500 bucks, a new tank 800-900 bucks, and a similar pump would be $1500+, while some new old stock pumps on ebay go for $1200 each. A new one to match mine would be $2500 minimum and likely closer to $3,000 to $3500. As much as that $700 hurt, I am very happy to have snagged it. My use is serious hobby and pro use with running a plasma table, blast cabinet, and very often use of die grinders. Sometimes you can grab a used compressor like mine for a couple hundred bucks. The one you linked to would be ok if you are just starting out with limited air tool use and want to see how you grow and keep an eye out for something better as it comes available or as you learn what you want for the future. Some people go all in to start. It's all up to you.

Many thanks for the informative post! I wish I could go with a large 240V 80 gallon but that is not an option for me, unfortunately. 30 gallons is definitely the biggest I can go right now. That said, I am okay with waiting between fills IF I can get more than a minite of run time on the die grinder and cut off tool before having to wait. I would be satisfied.... That's IF I can get a minute or more... If not, then I'll be pretty disappointed. That's why I thought I'd double check.

Edit: Also... If I am able to get the full 1000 ft.lb out of that impact wrench... Then am i not better off getting an impact wrench that consumes evem more cfm but produces more torque? For example a 6 cfm impact that will give 1200 ft. Lb? In other words... Why stop at 1000 ft lbs? I mean the Kobalt I picked produces 1000 ft lb at 5.9 cfm... And there are others that will yield 1200ft lbs at 6 or 6.5 cfm... Why not go with those?

 

[alex123]

These tools are rated at 90# in,,, at the tool. A new 3/8 hose can have near a # a foot loss with a heavy 1/2 air gun which has around 25 cfm demand for full power. It might be a little less than a pound loss but it takes right around 135 or so to deliver 90@ 25 down 50 ft. This is all generalization, its in the ballpark though depending on gun and even hose. I got some been on 24/7 for decades, they are bigger than 3/8 now, especially rubber.
Now that I think about it not sure I could get full down 50ft. Seems it was over a # loss . With 15 ft wasn't a problem.

Well my garage is pretty small and I can get aeay with 25'.... But I would do that if there would be a definitive advantage with going with shorter hose. If not, I'd go with 50'. I've got mixed responseson whether length of hose making a big difference. I mean if going 25' and 1/2" will help... I'll do it... But I want to be sure it'll help...?

 

[alex123]

Get the 1/2'' hose.

Care to elaborate?

 

[Mr_B]

I don't use 1/2 in professional shop.
Doubt you need 50ft in one length, 25-30ft probably be more than enough in one length. Long lengths can be a pita as can poor location of airlines and poor quality line .
I would go for slightly better compressor if can, slightly bigger tank and something belt drive over direct drive .

 

[alex123]

I don't use 1/2 in professional shop.
Doubt you need 50ft in one length, 25-30ft probably be more than enough in one length. Long lengths can be a pita as can poor location of airlines and poor quality line .
I would go for slightly better compressor if can, slightly bigger tank and something belt drive over direct drive .

Which compressor would you suggest that is not 240V?

 

[Citation]

3/8" line should be fine. 25 vs 50 foot will depend on your needs. Shorter is better from a loss POV. I've got a 50ft 3/8" hose with typical Milton connectors. The Milton V connectors are popular for high flow cases. As I mentioned in the last thread, in your shoes I think that compressor is actually a good option. It's not the belt drive Kobalt 2 stage but it has pretty similar flow and tank capacity. It also cost $170 less so that will pay for several piston rebuilds. Oh, it was also quieter.

Still, consider this when buying hose.
1. Hoses don't come with attached ends in most cases. So if you have a 25' hose and wish you bought a 50', well you can either just buy the 50' (about $25 for a rubber hose) or buy a second 25' and add it to what you have. You aren't committed to the hose or the type of fitting you buy. Don't stress out over it.

2. I've got two primary hoses. The first is my 3/8" 50ft. That was the first hose I bought nearly 20 years back. It has no trouble running my IR 231. The second hose I bought, and the one I use quite a bit, was a very cheap 25' coil hose.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-x-20-ft-coiled-air-hose-97923.html
These really restrict air flow... but I use them to air the tires and end air to the blow gun. Not every job needs a high flow hose. Since I don't have a real, these dumb yellow coil hoses are actually really easy to stow which is why I started using them so much. They are also cheap so when I need 60' of hose to air up a car outside of the garage, well I was out just $10 to add 50' to the 25' I already had.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Campbell-Hausfeld-MP287400AV-50-Recoil-Air-Hose/17128833

 

[Wamsutta]

Care to elaborate?

Sure. I have heard that the smaller diameter air hose can prevent an air tool from living up to its full potential. Same principle applies to muscle cars getting their cylinder heads opened up and putting headers on there.

 

[alex123]

3/8" line should be fine. 25 vs 50 foot will depend on your needs. Shorter is better from a loss POV. I've got a 50ft 3/8" hose with typical Milton connectors. The Milton V connectors are popular for high flow cases. As I mentioned in the last thread, in your shoes I think that compressor is actually a good option. It's not the belt drive Kobalt 2 stage but it has pretty similar flow and tank capacity. It also cost $170 less so that will pay for several piston rebuilds. Oh, it was also quieter.

Still, consider this when buying hose.
1. Hoses don't come with attached ends in most cases. So if you have a 25' hose and wish you bought a 50', well you can either just buy the 50' (about $25 for a rubber hose) or buy a second 25' and add it to what you have. You aren't committed to the hose or the type of fitting you buy. Don't stress out over it.

2. I've got two primary hoses. The first is my 3/8" 50ft. That was the first hose I bought nearly 20 years back. It has no trouble running my IR 231. The second hose I bought, and the one I use quite a bit, was a very cheap 25' coil hose.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-x-20-ft-coiled-air-hose-97923.html
These really restrict air flow... but I use them to air the tires and end air to the blow gun. Not every job needs a high flow hose. Since I don't have a real, these dumb yellow coil hoses are actually really easy to stow which is why I started using them so much. They are also cheap so when I need 60' of hose to air up a car outside of the garage, well I was out just $10 to add 50' to the 25' I already had.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Campbell-Hausfeld-MP287400AV-50-Recoil-Air-Hose/17128833

Your posts are ALWAYS well articulated and helpful. Thank you! I guess I was a little concerned, not so much with the hose, but actua run time on tools. I've heard a lot of "go get a 80 gallon 240v compress because this one is too small". A larger compressor is really not an option. It seems like the only 2 tools that I use which are constant high consumption are the die grinder and cut off tool. Again, I'm not running a shop... Just want to be able to maintenance and repairs.

 

[ItsNemo]

Sure. I have heard that the smaller diameter air hose can prevent an air tool from living up to its full potential. Same principle applies to muscle cars getting their cylinder heads opened up and putting headers on there.

Except the outlets on most 120v sub 30 gallon compressors are only 3/8" anyway.

1/2" hose only starts to make a difference if you're over 50 feet (or more like 100 feet) or you're using really big air tools (3/4" or bigger impacts, etc.).

 

[DGersic]

Get two hoses. The 25’ may not be long enough for everything. The 50’ may be too long most of the time, so you’ll be kicking it around the floor or tripping over it.


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[Tonyuk]

I wouldn't go any larger than a 3/8 hose.

Lugging a 1/2 hose around would be a pain. Honestly the real problem here isn't the hose its just that the compressor is barely adequate.

You could could full on 1" industrial hose connected to your tool and it still wouldn't run well.

 

[sberry]

Except the outlets on most 120v sub 30 gallon compressors are only 3/8" anyway.

1/2" hose only starts to make a difference if you're over 50 feet (or more like 100 feet) or you're using really big air tools (3/4" or bigger impacts, etc.).

If we are talking about a heavy 1/2 gun it always makes a difference, whether it matters of not is the question. The losses are proportionate,,, is that the right way to word it?,, If its 5# at 25 ft its 10 at 50. Gonna be 20 at 100 and maybe more.
The op seems kind of stuck on 1000# for some reason, lots of mechanics made a career of lesser guns for decades. I can't even remember what my own is, it was top for its time, they probably make better now but it works fine. I am sure it's not rated that high.

 

[alex123]

Get two hoses. The 25’ may not be long enough for everything. The 50’ may be too long most of the time, so you’ll be kicking it around the floor or tripping over it.


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I might just get the old measure tape out and measure the distance from where I plan on putting the compressor, to where the furthest point on my car will be. Sounds silly, but it will really be the best way to find out. Plus, you're right... I can always add another 25'... I didn't know that was an option originally.

 

[alex123]

I wouldn't go any larger than a 3/8 hose.

Lugging a 1/2 hose around would be a pain. Honestly the real problem here isn't the hose its just that the compressor is barely adequate.

You could could full on 1" industrial hose connected to your tool and it still wouldn't run well.

I agree with you on the compressor being the bottle neck here. I am strictly using this compressor for personal automotive (not commercial). The tools I plan on using will be impact wrench, die grinder, cut off tool, air hammer, fluid extractor, air ratchet, and air scraper.
My understanding is that from the aformentioned, the die grinder and cut off tool will be the only things that I might have trouble running on the 30 gallon compressor... is that correct? IF those are the only things that struggle, then I could go with corded on just those two tools and go pneumatic on the rest... However, I'd want to be sure that it's not more than just those two that will be the problem.... ?

 

[Mr_B]

air hammer uses a lot on full chooch .
Bit limited on 120V, what I have at home in my barn is a 60 gallon tank with 2 twin stage setups mounted on it and staggered starttup via pressure switch tweaking .
brought one new on sale and got other used with faulty switch/cap and mounted on old tank I had .
You could plan similar and buy with concept in mind of doing a double if needed, 2 pumps/motors even on a 30 gallon tank be pretty decent .

 

[Stooge]

I bought that compressor as an interim when my old compressor died and before I got my 80gallon one. Was a little loud, but did everything I needed it to and I was probably using it for more fabrication work than it was intended for, 3/8 hose, a lot of constant die grinder, air saw and sander, etc use and even painted a car, its frame and suspension and full interior with it. Painting with it was fine, but when running the grinders and sanders off of it, you would have to take a minute and let it catch up sometimes, but I don't remember it really being too bothersome. For regular use in a home garage, it should be more than adequate and was a good price, though it think it might have been a bit cheaper when I bought it. I brought it over a buddy's house for him to use since I didn't really have a need for it anymore and he didn't have a compressor.

 

[alex123]

air hammer uses a lot on full chooch .
Bit limited on 120V, what I have at home in my barn is a 60 gallon tank with 2 twin stage setups mounted on it and staggered starttup via pressure switch tweaking .
brought one new on sale and got other used with faulty switch/cap and mounted on old tank I had .
You could plan similar and buy with concept in mind of doing a double if needed, 2 pumps/motors even on a 30 gallon tank be pretty decent .

I don't even understand the setup you described, let alone try to plan a similar setup... lol. It's not that you didn't explain it properly... it's my lack of knowledge in the area.

 

[alex123]

I bought that compressor as an interim when my old compressor died and before I got my 80gallon one. Was a little loud, but did everything I needed it to and I was probably using it for more fabrication work than it was intended for, 3/8 hose, a lot of constant die grinder, air saw and sander, etc use and even painted a car, its frame and suspension and full interior with it. Painting with it was fine, but when running the grinders and sanders off of it, you would have to take a minute and let it catch up sometimes, but I don't remember it really being too bothersome. For regular use in a home garage, it should be more than adequate and was a good price, though it think it might have been a bit cheaper when I bought it. I brought it over a buddy's house for him to use since I didn't really have a need for it anymore and he didn't have a compressor.

Glad to hear it worked well for you. Yes, I'm planning on using it in the garage for light work as well. I won't be doing any painting at all.... just air wrench, ratchet, grinder, air hammer, etc...

 

[Mr_B]

I don't even understand the setup you described, let alone try to plan a similar setup... lol. It's not that you didn't explain it properly... it's my lack of knowledge in the area.

Just imagine you bought 2 of them and tanks linked together.
I acquired 2 and mounted the motors/pumps and control switches on a 60 gallon horizontal tank (one at each end)
Can be a cheap way have better air capability if your usage needs it and are limited to 120V and want costs kept reasonable.
It also good way upgrade if outgrowing an existing setup as you just expand off what you got and all kept simple as still on 120V .

 

[alex123]

Just imagine you bought 2 of them and tanks linked together.
I acquired 2 and mounted the motors/pumps and control switches on a 60 gallon horizontal tank (one at each end)
Can be a cheap way have better air capability if your usage needs it and are limited to 120V and want costs kept reasonable.
It also good way upgrade if outgrowing an existing setup as you just expand off what you got and all kept simple as still on 120V .

So let's say I get 2 air compressors which are 3 gallon each, and 5cfm. If I did what you described... Would I get 60 gallons and 10 cfm?

 

[Mr_B]

^
yes (assuming you missed the zero on 30)
all you got do is adjust pressure switch a little so startup always staggered or if getting fancy have one pressure switch and time delay relay for second motor .

 

[alex123]

^
yes (assuming you missed the zero on 30)
all you got do is adjust pressure switch a little so startup always staggered or if getting fancy have one pressure switch and time delay relay for second motor .

How hard would it be to do this? Would I just need another tank? And does it have to be the same capacity and PSI?

Just to confirm, in the example discussed, it would be 5 cfm + 5 cfm right? (not just doubling capacity and maintaining same cfm?

 

[Mr_B]

Yes you doubling cfm .
Ideally want same psi rated for best benefit, tanks don't have be same size just of suitable final joint capacity for you estimated requirements. you could even just add second motor and pump to 1 30gallon tank or fit both motors/pumps to another single large tank .
How easy or hard really depends on what you buy/working with, is as easy as buying 2 compressors, joining tanks with a pipe (normally spare fittings on tanks that can be used) and read the manual and tweak pressure switch so both not starting right together (timed relay can be better option), becomes more work if mounting on 1 large tank but it all easy stuff once get ball rolling, even adding timer relay for second motor control is easy if need do that way.
My auto shop compressor is a twin 5hp 240V setup and that what made me do the home 120V same concept .
Is best way get very usable diy air setup at low cost and low hassle .

 

[hangfirew8]

The die grinder and cut off tools will be miserable on anything less than 80 gallons, 17cfm, and a real 5hp compressor. You have to pay to play!

Bogus and wrong. If he stays with efficient air tools under 1/2HP he'll be just fine. Speaking as a 3.5HP/60Gallon owner who used to run stuff on 1/3HP+10Gal.

 

[hangfirew8]

Air tool CFM comes from the tank. It depends on the pressure in the tank, the size of the tank, and size and flow of your hose and fittings.

Pump CFM determines how fast the tank gets refilled, or if it stays full.

You can run high CFM tools just fine on a 30 gallon tank. You just have to stop and wait for refills more often. No matter how you cut it, you'll be getting more work done with the air tools then with a Dremel.

Running a 600ft/lb air gun, I could all 6 lug nuts off a truck wheel from a 1/3HP+10 gallon tank at 105PSI. By the time I got the wheel out of the way, moved the jack, jacked up the other corner and got the next jack stand out, the compressor had the tank ready for the next wheel.

I can run my aircat 1/2HP 3" cutoff wheel 100% from my 13.5CFM single stage 3.5HP 60 gallon. When I did so I totally shredded the wheel (overheated) and I had to take it off to continue. When running at a more reasonable rate the pump was running only 1/2 the time or less.

This gotta have 17CFM/80 gallon is pure nonsense.

 

[CGT80]

Bogus and wrong. If he stays with efficient air tools under 1/2HP he'll be just fine. Speaking as a 3.5HP/60Gallon owner who used to run stuff on 1/3HP+10Gal.

You added an "if" to the statement!


My statement is absolutely correct as stated and based on use on the same size compressors you listed.


You can shove your "bogus and wrong" attitude where the sun doesn't shine!


I certainly would not give up the power of the air tools I use and could use more. Less HP will get less work done in a given time.......another compromise.



Your post would have been more helpful if you perhaps told him which tools were efficient, in your opinion.


With the few brands of die grinder I have used, none of them have been easy on air. My 90 degree die grinder is a middle quality composite IR.

 

[sberry]

Air tool CFM comes from the tank. It depends on the pressure in the tank, the size of the tank, and size and flow of your hose and fittings.

Pump CFM determines how fast the tank gets refilled, or if it stays full.

You can run high CFM tools just fine on a 30 gallon tank. You just have to stop and wait for refills more often. No matter how you cut it, you'll be getting more work done with the air tools then with a Dremel.

Running a 600ft/lb air gun, I could all 6 lug nuts off a truck wheel from a 1/3HP+10 gallon tank at 105PSI. By the time I got the wheel out of the way, moved the jack, jacked up the other corner and got the next jack stand out, the compressor had the tank ready for the next wheel.

I can run my aircat 1/2HP 3" cutoff wheel 100% from my 13.5CFM single stage 3.5HP 60 gallon. When I did so I totally shredded the wheel (overheated) and I had to take it off to continue. When running at a more reasonable rate the pump was running only 1/2 the time or less.

This gotta have 17CFM/80 gallon is pure nonsense.

I agree with you, have seen a lot of guys get long just fine on those comps.

 

[dimichele]

You'll be able to run what you want, but will have to wait at times. Oil less compressors are much louder than oiled. I have a 33 gal craftsman. I will not buy another oil less.

 

[Citation]

You'll be able to run what you want, but will have to wait at times. Oil less compressors are much louder than oiled. I have a 33 gal craftsman. I will not buy another oil less.

It's no longer a given that oilless is louder than oiled. Per the specs I think that husky is quieter than the belt drive oiled compressor that he was considering. My guess is noise wasn't a design consideration then the first oilless pumps hit the market and were probably compared to the more traditional belt drive oiled pumps. Oiled direct drive units can be pretty loud while newer oilless models are impressively quiet.