General capping question ....?

[Jtrudel90]

I’m just looking for some advice pertaining to how to correctly install trim coil capping on a door where you will have A raw exposed edge visible. The only info I’ve been able to find online is in the attached photo. As you can see the sill trim in the photo hides this and provides a means of locking the cap into place .I’ve never really noticed this before is anyone able to elaborate, Is this the preferred way....?

Thanks

 

[matt_i]

Imo you should do one of two things.

1. put a hem in there on the sill trim so the raw edge is folded back. I don't like that option because I think you'll be forever fighting to get the gap tight along the length.

2. put a hem on the other larger piece by simply bending it back and use the trim brake's clamp system to smash it flat. Then you just need to control the dimension of that edge, which you are presumably are doing across all other bends.

Just a question, what do you do when you get to the top corner? Miter or a lap? Seems like a tough joint to make. Most of the doors I have seen are not trimmed like that with metal.

 

[yeldogt]

Why do you want to cover it .... properly painted they last for years and look better ?

 

[Jtrudel90]

Why do you want to cover it .... properly painted they last for years and look better ?

I will be installing a new door with brick mold and just wondering about creating a more weather resistant frame. The original door is only 15 years old and is rotten at the bottom and the finger jointed brick mold is falling apart at the factory joints. The frame was originally painted and still looks fairly good. I don’t think this was a case that it wasn’t maintained. I also live in a northern climate and regularly get drifting snow against this door.

 

[Jtrudel90]

Just a question, what do you do when you get to the top corner? Miter or a lap? Seems like a tough joint to make. Most of the doors I have seen are not trimmed like that with metal.

I’m no expert and recently picked up a brake to do some small odds and ends
I have a Tapco brake buddy, and mocked up a few small pieces using the brick mold dies as I’m going to also cap my two garage doors. I was able to miter my 2 small pieces and have them look great. For my patio door the capping was a little wider on the sides then the top (replaced original garden doors)when I made my templates I just did smooth caps with a lap at the corner b/c the angle wouldn’t have been a proper 45deg

 

[yeldogt]

I will be installing a new door with brick mold and just wondering about creating a more weather resistant frame. The original door is only 15 years old and is rotten at the bottom and the finger jointed brick mold is falling apart at the factory joints. The frame was originally painted and still looks fairly good. I don’t think this was a case that it wasn’t maintained. I also live in a northern climate and regularly get drifting snow against this door.

Most doors are not installed correctly -- doors should have drip pans and a way for the water to escape. Proper sill extension ... under the factor sill to take the water off the building. Google some pictures ... look up the plastic pans for doors.

Price a door from a real lumber yard -- you may be surprised. You can order them with 4 hinges and brick mld w/o Finger Joints. Spend a few extra dollars for a better product --- prime the frame with oil primer and use a good top coat.

My guess is the install trapped moisture and the brick bottomed out against either the foundation or the RO.

What is the siding ?

 

[Jtrudel90]

Sorry yes my patio doors that were replaced do have a metal pan under the door flashed up the sides and the lower sill extends past the house. There was no issues there

My garage man door aluminum sill is sitting on the concrete floor. Not sure if there is a sill gasket under or just silicone( haven’t got that far yet)But at the bottom of the frame the wood frame is punky and weathered.

The door opening is in a poured foundation wall with a 7 inch step up to step into the garage and the garage has a 8 inch curb on the inside ( not concerned about any rotten framing)

 

[jetnow1]

I use the vinyl premade brick molding with stainless steel screws. Occasional wash and it looks like new, no rot issues, no painting.

 

[kaymccampbell]

I have PVC door frames, composite doors, and PVC trim. They don't rot. You still must caulk and put a drip rail above the door.

 

[CraigStu]

I agree w/ the above posters. Why try to keep water etc away from the wood? Your efforts will certainly help but I think a better solution is get rid of the wood. But then I re-read your initial post. I see now you are trying to help an existing install rather than replacing it. So I am hopeful someone w/ sheet metal experience will offer suggestions.

 

[Jtrudel90]

I didn’t really clarify but the existing door is getting tough I’m looking at Replacing the door it’s a pretty basic door. 36 inch left hand ,in swing Double bore 6 panel 4 9/16 jamb man door. You can get a off the shelf for about $220. I would like to have it factory painted pebble on the outside have looked at a few manufacturers no options for items such a pvc jambs, 4 hinges etc. Just custom ordering pebble on the outside raises the price to $600-$770 depending on the manufacturer I priced out 4 different options

If anyone has any recommendations I’m all ears we have very limited sources for the general public here in ontario

The original door is 15 years old and gets a lot of weather and drifting snow against it. I would just like to make it more maintenance free if possible. Really should just replace the door, paint the frame as mentioned and get another 15 years out of it