general framing question

[aarcuda]

first off, forgive my ignorance and terminology. I am an AMATEUR at this (I can cut wood and hammer nails but framing is not one of my lessons learned)

when framing using 16" stud spacing, is that 16" from the outside corner of the house to outside corner? and then additional studs are put 3.5" in from the corner to give a nailing surface for drywall for the interior?

I'm trying to figure out the dimensions for my shop. I'm thinking 30'x50' right now but I dont want to mess up the sizing so I get odd spacing when putting in the roof panels which are 4x8. I want to make sure the lines on the boards line up with the rafters or stud. I want to make sure I am sizing this shop to be compatible with standard lumber.

So will I mess up if its 30x50 or does it need to be 28x48 or does it matter (i.e. Can I just scab stuff in to make it all fit)?

 

[sjsfire]

first off, forgive my ignorance and terminology. I am an AMATEUR at this (I can cut wood and hammer nails but framing is not one of my lessons learned)

when framing using 16" stud spacing, is that 16" from the outside corner of the house to outside corner? and then additional studs are put 3.5" in from the corner to give a nailing surface for drywall for the interior?

I'm trying to figure out the dimensions for my shop. I'm thinking 30'x50' right now but I dont want to mess up the sizing so I get odd spacing when putting in the roof panels which are 4x8. I want to make sure the lines on the boards line up with the rafters or stud. I want to make sure I am sizing this shop to be compatible with standard lumber.

So will I mess up if its 30x50 or does it need to be 28x48 or does it matter (i.e. Can I just scab stuff in to make it all fit)?

OK, your forgiven.....I find myself in the same boat occasionally. Wether your building a house or anything you "will" have a certain amount of scrape. True studs are layed out on 16 inch centers for drywall and plywood installation. Roofs are generally set on 2 foot centers for the same reason. First I'd check with your local building codes ands see what their requirements are for the building your wanting. Second, I'd go to the library or Menards, Lowes, Home Depot, etc and buy a instruction book pertaining to framing. It might cost you $20 but it will be money well spent. Lot of info in those books about framing, building headers for doorways, and rafters.

 

[aarcuda]

OK, your forgiven.....I find myself in the same boat occasionally. Wether your building a house or anything you "will" have a certain amount of scrape. True studs are layed out on 16 inch centers for drywall and plywood installation. Roofs are generally set on 2 foot centers for the same reason. First I'd check with your local building codes ands see what their requirements are for the building your wanting. Second, I'd go to the library or Menards, Lowes, Home Depot, etc and buy a instruction book pertaining to framing. It might cost you $20 but it will be money well spent. Lot of info in those books about framing, building headers for doorways, and rafters.

I just remembered I do have a book and I'm reading it right now. its called "Carpentry and Building construction" by Feirer and Hutchings. Very complete. so Let me breeze through this for a bit.

Btw, if walls are 16" centers and roof are generally 24", that means every other roof trusse will not lie on a stud but will be in between... I would have thought that to be something that needs to line up.

 

[73GRAND]

In order to provide a surface for drywall and to stenghthen the corner; one wall will end with a doubled up 2x4 and then the wall that starts perpendicular to that will have its first stud nailed to the ends of those two; using an equal sign and a I, I'll show you.

=I I I I


_


_

 

[hawkeye2]

Actually in the corner the two studs need to bespaced farter apart. you can just nail this stud in far enough spaced to provide a nailer for drywall, or use three studs in the corners, or two studs, with a few scrapes of 2x4 placed at the top bottom and middle

 

[bobbyd]

Btw, if walls are 16" centers and roof are generally 24", that means every other roof trusse will not lie on a stud but will be in between... I would have thought that to be something that needs to line up.

Nope. Most structural walls will have a double top plate to carry the load of the truss(roof) to the two adjacent studs. Lining vertical structural framing members up from top to bottom becomes important when building multistory wood framed buildings and actually saves lumber in the long run on those types of projects. Not important on single or two story residentail applications.

From my experience, which may or may not be right, generally speaking, you want the outside of the building to be on modular spacing, multiples of 16", 2' or 4'. The inside will be a little smaller, but that produces smaller amounts of scrap on cheaper material (drywall). 30' x 50' is fine but 32' x 48' will produce a little less scrap both inside and out. See pic for example of a stud framing corner layout.

 

[sjsfire]

Btw, if walls are 16" centers and roof are generally 24", that means every other roof trusse will not lie on a stud but will be in between... I would have thought that to be something that needs to line up.[/QUOTE]


Yes, You would think but in construction the rafters are on 2 ft centers. At least they are in my neck of the woods. I'm not sure of building practices in the Northern areas where a heavy snow accumulation would factor in. I built a 8x12 shed last summer for my mower, garden tools, etc. I built my own rafters and spaced them on 16 inch centers. Not because I was worried about the load of the roofing materials or snow, It was for "me" I'm a little bigger than the average bear so I wanted a good solid feeling when I got on top to paper and shingle. Probably didn't cost me more than $10 to add those few extra rafters. Your 30x50 shed will be much more expensive, I'll assume you'll buy rafters and not build yourself. If I bought premade 8 ft for my shed they would have cost me $25 each. Read your book and keep it handy. I think you'll do just fine.

 

[Wile1Coyote]

Really the basis of your question as I understand it is if I space on 16" what do I nail to in the corners. for Drywall installation. 2 Answers #1 do a lot of math and lay the building out perfectly so the drywall goes up in perfect sheets requiring no cutting and no waste. #2 reality add a nailer 1 inches in on each wall at the ends to allow for wallboard install.

So go with whatever size fits your location, you can always make it work.

 

[hawkeye2]

As far as the trusses go... when you buy them, they will tell you the spacing, required in your area, and will provide a drawing of required bracing between the rafters, you will need this as part of your building permit.

 

[aarcuda]

ya, I was going to buy the trusses. I got them quoted a while back and I think they were like $100 each.

 

[Stuart in MN]

If the garage will be insulated, you may want to use what is commonly called a California Corner. The third 2x is turned sideways, like shown below.

 

[aarcuda]

cool. ive never seen that before but i like it.

 

[Der Bugmeister]

I used the "California Corners" on mine...made sense as I went along, and seemed to tie everything together nicely. Didn't even know that style had a name until I read this post!

 

[The Money Pit]

Sounds like a pretty big project. My 26 X 36 was (and is) a very big undertaking. I tried to frame my garage myself with some help from someone who had "built" their own garage and looking back, I would hire or get a friend who does it for a living frame it up for you. It's worth the $ and you have to remember you are putting A LOT of weight on top of those walls. Check out this link and you will see what I had to do with my framing. The "OH ****!" photos are on the second page. There are a lot of pictures in the link. If you would like to see more pictures or have me explain what's happening in them let me know. I can post or email them to you. Good luck!

http://impalassforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=8;t=014302

 

[Quiksilver]

What did you do wrong that you had to take the walls down? Something about a bottom plate that wasnt installed? Just curious, as I am planning building my own, just not sure how soon.

 

[Willy Victor]

There is no correlation between wall studs and ceiling joists. or roof rafters. To start a wall nail a stud at the corner. To place the second stud hook your tape at the outside of the first stud, measure 15 and a quarter, with a speed square draw a perpendicular line, place an X to the right of the line. Drive a nail in part way on the line. Hook your tape on the nail now measure for your 16 on center, draw your line, put the X to the right of the line. When nailing your studs always cover the X. When you get to a corner you need three studs or two studs and spacer blocks for your drywall to nail to. There really isn't any need to line up the wall studs with the ceiling joists.

Willy

 

[bigdogrider99]

Sounds like a pretty big project. My 26 X 36 was (and is) a very big undertaking. I tried to frame my garage myself with some help from someone who had "built" their own garage and looking back, I would hire or get a friend who does it for a living frame it up for you. It's worth the $ and you have to remember you are putting A LOT of weight on top of those walls. Check out this link and you will see what I had to do with my framing. The "OH ****!" photos are on the second page. There are a lot of pictures in the link. If you would like to see more pictures or have me explain what's happening in them let me know. I can post or email them to you. Good luck!

http://impalassforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=8;t=014302

Yes, it is definitely a big project to do something like that by yourself. But when it is done and done right and you can say you did it yourself that is something to be proud of and not take for granted. Check out grizzleys den in the garage gallery. This took me from the first week of Feb to the beginning of June for the slab to what you see now. I farmed out the slab and had a framer friend on site to help me frame it. Most of it was done with about 3 people, I did have more people when we set the trusses but that was a safety thing. The dimensions are 36x40 and the room upstairs is 12x40

 

[yamahayfz450]

I just remembered I do have a book and I'm reading it right now. its called "Carpentry and Building construction" by Feirer and Hutchings. Very complete. so Let me breeze through this for a bit.

Btw, if walls are 16" centers and roof are generally 24", that means every other roof trusse will not lie on a stud but will be in between... I would have thought that to be something that needs to line up.

i dont mean to highjack this thread, but aarcuda how is that book that you mentioned? is it worth buying? how many pages is it? i was thinking of either that book or this one http://www.constructionbook.com/xq/ASP/ProductID.2963/id.444/subID.445/qx/default2.htm


mike

 

[aarcuda]

the book is a good 3" thick. I think it has everything you need to know about construction. i love it!!

 

[yamahayfz450]

the book is a good 3" thick. I think it has everything you need to know about construction. i love it!!

is any of the stuff outdated thought? i think i might buy it. thanks


mike