General Lift Question

[Stew4706]

I am new to this forum and it is great!! Anyway I am looking a purchasing a hoist and I am interested in hear what you think about 2 post Vs 4 post and brands. I have looked at Bend Pak, Mohawk, Backyard Buddy, Rotary....

I appreciate the input and the thread!!!

Thanks

 

[FlameOut]

A search of these forums will give you hours of reading on the subject

 

[SteveU]

I am new to this forum and it is great!! Anyway I am looking a purchasing a hoist and I am interested in hear what you think about 2 post Vs 4 post and brands. I have looked at Bend Pak, Mohawk, Backyard Buddy, Rotary....

I appreciate the input and the thread!!!

Thanks

Mainly depends on what type of work you will be doing on your vehicles & whether you will be using it to work on vehicles or to store a vehicle & park something else below it. I planned on using mine only for working on vehicles so I got a 2 post, for storage a 4 post is the way to go. Lots of threads on lifts on this and the tool forum, figure out what you want to do with it & get one ordered before the price goes up too much

 

[SUPERFORD]

Four post lifts seem to be the overwhelming choice for home hobbyists. Frankly, I don't understand why. four post lifts are EXTREMELY limited in their usage.

If you ONLY need the lift for storage or VERY limited repair work such as the occasional oil change, then a 4 post may be the way to go for you.

also, for the novice, a four post does offer the simplicity of "drive on and lift" capability, while a two post requres locating the arms in a safe location. this makes a four post "faster" (by about 30 seconds) to get a car in the air. I would think that this would only come into play if you literally used your lift for daily parking duties. If you don't feel comfortable setting the arms of a lift, then you have no business being under a car that is on one, and so you wouldn't need or want the advantages that two post lifts offer.

I haven't priced them, (because I think that aside from straight up storage they are practically useless), but I assume that 4 post lifts must be cheaper to purchase, adding to their popularity.

From a repair or service standpoint, the only advantage that a four post has over a two post would be in the rare occasion that you NEED to work on a car with the suspension loaded. examples might be, welding in subframe connectors, or trying to locate a noise or problem in the suspension or driveline that can only be duplicated with a vehicle on all four wheels.

Other than the few points listed above, a two post will do everything a four post lift will, and MUCH more.

providing you have adequate ceiling height for an appropriately sized two post lift, you can easily perform car over car storage.

a two post lift has a smaller "footprint" in your garage floor, meaning it takes up far less valuable floor space. some folks will argue that a four post lift can be moved around on casters if needed (providing you have another space to move it to). I would argue that ANY lift including four post should be securely mounted to the floor for safety reasons.

a two post offers unobstructed access to the underbody of the vehicle from front to rear and side to side.

a two post lift allows you to quickly and easily remove wheels and tires for rotations, brake repairs, and many other more complicated repairs.

I'll be installing a Rotary SPOA10 EH1 in my garage. it's a two post asymetrical 10,000lb capacity lift with extended height allowing me to lift taller vans and trucks high enough to walk under and work on.

If I had unlimited funds, I'd be getting a Rotary IN GROUND smart lift. these offer the advantages of a two post lift, but when in the lowered position take up basically ZERO shop space. Unfortunately, they probably cost between 10k to $15k installed and also do not allow for over/under parking. Unless the "under" car is extremely narrow (or a motorcycle)!

just my .02

good luck.

P.S. IMHO, rotary is the best lift available, very expensive, but THE top of the line lift. stay away from the chinese imports. supposedly eagle and bend pak(which is IMHO a terrible name for an american company. I was sure they were Chinese made imports judging by the name alone) are pretty good and there's another good lift whose name currently escapes me, but I don't have first hand experience with any of them.

 

[Steve_S]

Perhaps this page will help you decide what is best: http://www.mgnuts.com/autolifts/

 

[tim096]

I just installed a foward 10,000 2 post lift (made by rotary) they have a good deal on them . mine was 3200 installed. this is the same lift that most muffler shops and auto dealers use in my area. I have used many different types of lifts. the rotary inground are awsome but pricey. To rich for me. I personally think mohawk makes the best built 2 post by far but again pricey. the biggest thing with getting a lift I think is being able to get parts for it and get one that is certified. most china ones are not. I would not buy one that is not certified. hope this helps

 

[ovilla]

I own BendPak's HD-9-B, which is a certified 9K 4-post lift. This unit has dual safety locks which will monitor the cable at each column and engage at the next lower locking point if/when a cable were to break. I also ordered the RJ45 rolling air jack and with this set up, I feel like I have the best of both worlds.

If you're a shop that does frame-off restorations, definitely get a 2-post lift. Otherwise, my set up will allow you to easily drive up on the ramps, lift the car to a comfortable height, then use the rolling air jack to the get the car off the ramps. You'll then be able to work on brakes, rotate tires, remove shocks, etc.. The nice thing about the 4-post lift is that you can easily adjust ride height on your cars since the suspension is already loaded (also considered to be the best approach for storing a car/truck long term).

With a caster kit you can also wheel your 4-post to the best spot in/out the garage.

With a 2-post you'll find that in order to set it up properly (say to be able to pull axle shafts out on both sides of a Jeep) you'll need to have the columns away from the wall. Any normal small two car garage will then easily become a one car garage. Most folks that do order the 2-post lifts normally have big garages or they put a 2-post in the middle of a 3-car garage.

Omar

 

[car99r]

I own BendPak's HD-9-B, which is a certified 9K 4-post lift. This unit has dual safety locks which will monitor the cable at each column and engage at the next lower locking point if/when a cable were to break. I also ordered the RJ45 rolling air jack and with this set up, I feel like I have the best of both worlds.

If you're a shop that does frame-off restorations, definitely get a 2-post lift. Otherwise, my set up will allow you to easily drive up on the ramps, lift the car to a comfortable height, then use the rolling air jack to the get the car off the ramps. You'll then be able to work on brakes, rotate tires, remove shocks, etc.. The nice thing about the 4-post lift is that you can easily adjust ride height on your cars since the suspension is already loaded (also considered to be the best approach for storing a car/truck long term).

With a caster kit you can also wheel your 4-post to the best spot in/out the garage.

With a 2-post you'll find that in order to set it up properly (say to be able to pull axle shafts out on both sides of a Jeep) you'll need to have the columns away from the wall. Any normal small two car garage will then easily become a one car garage. Most folks that do order the 2-post lifts normally have big garages or they put a 2-post in the middle of a 3-car garage.

Omar

Omar,
I would be interested in seeing some pictures of you using the rolling floor jack with the car on the lift in the air. Just curious on how you are doing this and how easy it really is. I worked in a garage with 2-post lifts but never a 4-post and I foresee many problems having a car in the air and on a jack? However, I have not seen it and I have yet to see this rolling floor jack.

Thank you

 

[car99r]

Nevermind....

I just found a picture of one and I see what you are referring to. I would still be interested in how you go about changing wheels and such up in the air. Doesn't the sides of the lift cause reach problems?

 

[mikeyr]

for storage, 4 post always. You never want to store your car on a 2 post like the picture in this thread, unless you want that lift on a regular basis to replace the damaged suspension.

Since a 4-post can do everything a 2-post can and because of their advantages I vote 4 always.

And here is how you work on the brakes/suspension on a 4-post, super easy and I do it right the first time so its not something I do very often.

 

[Steve_S]

...or you can buy jack bridges for a few hundred extra per end.

 

[ovilla]

The RJ45 is super stable. Keep in mind that this is a scissors lift that rests on the u-channel lip on the inside of the BendPak HD-9 series ramps and lifts your car perfectly level. This is not an air bag lift that is going to give you a pillowy feel and jump up and down everytime you lean on the car. The RJ45 must weigh a good 400+ lbs by itself but easily rolls (once you give it a good pull). Your car will be rock solid on the lift and feel just like it's parked on the floor under a jack stand. The RJ45's pads also extend really far to the sides and allow you to put them under the lifting points on your car, in the same fashion as a 2-post lift.

I did the brakes on my bud's Camry last week and was pounding the hell out of his rotors (to remove them) and the car didn't budge at all. Seriously, with the RJ45 set at whatever locking position you need, it is no longer dependent on air to carry the load. At that point, you have lowered the RJ45 and it is mechanically stopped at a given position and the weight of the car has it locked in place. The unit itself is a good 36" wide at the base and with the side arms extended it will be about as wide as your car. Here's a pic to let you see the width. Next time, I'll get you an action pic.

 

[car99r]

Stew, I not trying to hijack your thread here but kind of hit home and I am sure any questons I might ask would help your decision as well...

I have spent the last couple of hours reading about this lift and the rolling jack. Seems like a very good combination if you ask me. Since I just spent everything on putting my garage up, flooring, and cabinets it might be some time before I get a lift. However, when the time comes I could easily see myself going with the same setup.

Now, even a bigger question...

With a car on the lift, how tough is it to roll on the casters? Is this something a single person can do without having to recoup for 3 days with sore back?

 

[SUPERFORD]

for storage, 4 post always. You never want to store your car on a 2 post like the picture in this thread

Since a 4-post can do everything a 2-post can and because of their advantages I vote 4 always.

And here is how you work on the brakes/suspension on a 4-post, super easy and I do it right the first time so its not something I do very often.

everyone has their own opinion, but...

I have to disagree with you 100%.

lifting a car on a two post lift does not "damage the suspension".

to say that a 4 post can do everything a 2 post can do is almost laughable.

go down to your local car dealership or auto repair shop and see how many 4 post lifts they have. probably one, it's called an alignment rack, because the car needs to be sitting on the tires for this job. aside from that I'd bet that every other lift in the shop will be an in floor or above ground two post design. if 4 posts are better, then how come the pro's don't use them?

just because you CAN put brakes on your car on a 4 post lift, doesn't mean it's the better choice for working on a car.

anyone can see how those two giant 20" wide runways underneath each side of the vehicle will get in the way on many repairs.

again, 4 post has it's use (mainly for storage use), but for pretty much anything else, a two post is superior.

yes there are adapters to jack up a vehicle on a 4 post lift, unfortunately after doing this, the runways don't disolve or disappear like in the picture above.

just my .02

-chris

 

[OldCarGuy]

I own Four 4-post lifts and Two 2-post lifts. The 4-post lifts are the best way to go for storage. However hen servicing a car, the ramps block part the working area under on a car, while a 2-post gives better accessibility. IMHO if I was to own a single lift it would be a 4-post in a home setting. For the casual user, just drive the car on the lift and raise her up. No getting down on the floor the set the arms. And with a bridge with bottle jacks and stands (better yet a rolling jack) most any work can be performed.

My lifts below:

Bendpak XPR-10ACX Asymmetric Two Post Lift

Mohawk System 1 Symmetric To Post Lift

Stinger Four Post Lifts

 

[Junkman]

.

Now, even a bigger question...

With a car on the lift, how tough is it to roll on the casters? Is this something a single person can do without having to recoup for 3 days with sore back?

Because of the design, once you have weight on the rolling jack, you can not move it. The rollers are set on springs, so when you put weight on the jack, the jack rests partially on the runway adding to its stability.

As for trying to compare 2 post lifts with 4 posts lifts is like trying to compare oranges which are sweet to lemons which are tart. The are both fruits, but both have different flavor and are for a differant purpose.
I have a 4 post lift and my cars weigh about 8000 pounds each. They are between 20' & 21' in length. Because of the length, and the uneven weight distribution, every shop that I have ever brought the car to will not put it in the air on a 2 post lift to work underneath it. The most that they have ever done was to lift it high enough to change tires. I don't know how they work under the stretch limo's, but I doubt that they use a 2 post lift...

 

[Steve_S]

Two post lifts are useless for storage. There is no drip protection and the suspension hangs under its own weight. They are not as safe in an earthquake. For the home user, they are too tall for a typical household garage. The posts are in the way when you try to open the door and get out after parking. They are better however, for general maintenance under the vehicle.

A two post lift is a godsend for maintenance, but for a home garage where the vehicle will be stored on the lift, I agree that a 4-post lift is far better.

 

[car99r]

Because of the design, once you have weight on the rolling jack, you can not move it. The rollers are set on springs, so when you put weight on the jack, the jack rests partially on the runway adding to its stability.

As for trying to compare 2 post lifts with 4 posts lifts is like trying to compare oranges which are sweet to lemons which are tart. The are both fruits, but both have different flavor and are for a differant purpose.
I have a 4 post lift and my cars weigh about 8000 pounds each. They are between 20' & 21' in length. Because of the length, and the uneven weight distribution, every shop that I have ever brought the car to will not put it in the air on a 2 post lift to work underneath it. The most that they have ever done was to lift it high enough to change tires. I don't know how they work under the stretch limo's, but I doubt that they use a 2 post lift...

Sorry, I guess i should have worded that better.

When the vehicle is on the lift itself without being on the jack can you move the lift around.

Example would be my Riviera up in the air and then decided I wanted to slide the lift over to the edge of garage out of the way to get another vehicle in?

 

[ovilla]

car99r - For obvious safety reasons, none of the 4-post lifts will allow you to have a car more than an inch or two off the ground as you use casters to then move the lift around. They all have the same concept in which the casters are made so that after they are locked in place, the weight of the ramps comes down on the caster assemblies and raises each column just enough to allow you to move your lift. Also, yes, you can move them around quite easy with a car on them or not. Check out the BendPak website at www.bendpak.com to see a guy move a lift around the shop (with one arm) while a car is on it.

 

[car99r]

car99r - For obvious safety reasons, none of the 4-post lifts will allow you to have a car more than an inch or two off the ground as you use casters to then move the lift around. They all have the same concept in which the casters are made so that after they are locked in place, the weight of the ramps comes down on the caster assemblies and raises each column just enough to allow you to move your lift. Also, yes, you can move them around quite easy with a car on them or not. Check out the BendPak website at www.bendpak.com to see a guy move a lift around the shop (with one arm) while a car is on it.

Exactly the answer I was looking for! Thank you very much.. Now a lot of sweet talking the wife...lol

 

[Vicegrip]

2 post versus 4 post? 2 post and a set of adaptors. My 2 post works like a 4 post when I want it to and a 2 post when I want it to. Drive on and off over 2 inch tall ramps. I can also switch back and forth between 2 to 4 and back with a car in the bay. This is not the solution for all cars and trucks. I made them to make my life a bit easer.

Working on a car using a 4 post lift is tedious to say the least. The decks are always in the way somehow.

 

[mikeyr]

I have to disagree with you 100%.

Its a free country feel free, I won't even be disappointed or upset.

lifting a car on a two post lift does not "damage the suspension".

That is nice, keep believing that as you change suspension parts more often than anyone else because you stored the suspension in a unnatural position for it with all its parts fully extended and bushings stressed. No worries for me, I wont be buying your cars so keep believing it.

 

[ovilla]

car99r - I just wanted to comment on "sweet talking" to the wife as I think this is a major hurdle for everyone with one of these big purchases. I've been talking about getting a lift for a good two years (at least).

What really hits home is if you can keep receipts of any work done to your cars that you feel you would have been able to do at home. Even an oil change (which the national average is something like $36 now as most places also force the car wash on you) can be done at home for $12 (Autozone oil and filter special). ****** service, which will easily costs you $100-150 at most shops, can be done for as cheap as the cost of the filter and fluid (yes, some folks want the power flush but a frequent drain and fill along with a new filter will work too). Coolant flushes can range anywhere from $40-65 and can be done at home for $10-20. Swapping out a starter, compressor, or sometimes even an alternator will save you at least 1-2 hours in labor (an easy $100-120+). Brake jobs are where you'll quickly get the biggest return on your lift. Most shops will easily charge $200-300 to put new rotors and pads on the front of most cars. This can be done at home safely on a lift for around $100.

Yes, it's true that you can still do all of this with a car up on jack stands but that's where a little discussion on safety comes in. I'm sure you can easily find stories of cars falling on shade tree mechanics that you can then share with the wife from time to time. I know this may be a rough tactic as you don't want to scare her, just merely bringing up a lasting visual (remember that women never forget anything - she'll remember this on the day that she okay's the purchase and she'll even mention it as justification for the purchase while talking to her mom/girlfriends about your new lift).

You can also talk about the time it takes to safely set up a car just to do an oil change. If you don't have ramps, you know this will take 10-15 minutes. Speaking of ramps, I even tried doing an oil change once while it was raining and my wife saw how crazy it was attempting to drive onto metal ramps. One time I even had one ramp go flying under her brothers van as I was trying to drive up on both of them. Like I said, the more you can allow the wife to see what a hassel it really is to get things set up, the more she'll be able to acknowledge that a lift will be a huge time saver. Remember, you're not trying to scare her, just merely allowing her to be part of your set up experience.

Finally, we have four cars that we use, plus I also service her parents and brothers car. All it took was a simple spreadsheet in which I laid out what it would cost to take all of these cars in for simple maintenance to a dealer versus me doing the work at home, safely on a lift. I found that even after paying for parts, my lift will still easily pay for itself in a little over a year. That's all it took to justify my Bendpak purchase. There's nothing sweeter than hearing the wife say "Okay, go ahead and order it".

 

[sseaner]

Ovilla, your garage looks similar to mine in size. How far off the wall is your lift and how close to the door edge is the lift with no ramps installed? If you had some more pics that would be great. I am in the middle of the 2 post / 4 post dilemma and trying to get as much info as possible.

Thanks,

Scott

 

[SteveU]

Not to mention exhaust work or replacing brake lines which can be done on jackstands & ramps but is a major pain. I replaced one of the exhaust gaskets on my car last night on the lift which is right about the center of the car & didn't even get dirty compared to crawling on my back, having a cutoff wheel & air hammer a foot from my face trying to do the same job without the lift. Tire rotations is another thing that is simple compared to jacking 1 corner at a time which will make them last longer. The ability to put the car in the air any time day or night & not to have to take it to a muffler shop where they will try and sell you a new exhaust or other unnecessary repairs is great. Then there is also the ability to make money/trade services with someone for say building a deck for working on their car, etc.

 

[car99r]

car99r - I just wanted to comment on "sweet talking" to the wife as I think this is a major hurdle for everyone with one of these big purchases. I've been talking about getting a lift for a good two years (at least).

What really hits home is if you can keep receipts of any work done to your cars that you feel you would have been able to do at home. Even an oil change (which the national average is something like $36 now as most places also force the car wash on you) can be done at home for $12 (Autozone oil and filter special). ****** service, which will easily costs you $100-150 at most shops, can be done for as cheap as the cost of the filter and fluid (yes, some folks want the power flush but a frequent drain and fill along with a new filter will work too). Coolant flushes can range anywhere from $40-65 and can be done at home for $10-20. Swapping out a starter, compressor, or sometimes even an alternator will save you at least 1-2 hours in labor (an easy $100-120+). Brake jobs are where you'll quickly get the biggest return on your lift. Most shops will easily charge $200-300 to put new rotors and pads on the front of most cars. This can be done at home safely on a lift for around $100.

Yes, it's true that you can still do all of this with a car up on jack stands but that's where a little discussion on safety comes in. I'm sure you can easily find stories of cars falling on shade tree mechanics that you can then share with the wife from time to time. I know this may be a rough tactic as you don't want to scare her, just merely bringing up a lasting visual (remember that women never forget anything - she'll remember this on the day that she okay's the purchase and she'll even mention it as justification for the purchase while talking to her mom/girlfriends about your new lift).

You can also talk about the time it takes to safely set up a car just to do an oil change. If you don't have ramps, you know this will take 10-15 minutes. Speaking of ramps, I even tried doing an oil change once while it was raining and my wife saw how crazy it was attempting to drive onto metal ramps. One time I even had one ramp go flying under her brothers van as I was trying to drive up on both of them. Like I said, the more you can allow the wife to see what a hassel it really is to get things set up, the more she'll be able to acknowledge that a lift will be a huge time saver. Remember, you're not trying to scare her, just merely allowing her to be part of your set up experience.

Finally, we have four cars that we use, plus I also service her parents and brothers car. All it took was a simple spreadsheet in which I laid out what it would cost to take all of these cars in for simple maintenance to a dealer versus me doing the work at home, safely on a lift. I found that even after paying for parts, my lift will still easily pay for itself in a little over a year. That's all it took to justify my Bendpak purchase. There's nothing sweeter than hearing the wife say "Okay, go ahead and order it".

You rock Ovilla! I will have to start working on that stuff. Money is always her top concern and I have spent a lot in the past 2 years...lol

Not to mention exhaust work or replacing brake lines which can be done on jackstands & ramps but is a major pain. I replaced one of the exhaust gaskets on my car last night on the lift which is right about the center of the car & didn't even get dirty compared to crawling on my back, having a cutoff wheel & air hammer a foot from my face trying to do the same job without the lift. Tire rotations is another thing that is simple compared to jacking 1 corner at a time which will make them last longer. The ability to put the car in the air any time day or night & not to have to take it to a muffler shop where they will try and sell you a new exhaust or other unnecessary repairs is great. Then there is also the ability to make money/trade services with someone for say building a deck for working on their car, etc.

I already work on lots of bikes for people and sometimes trade work for things. If I add cars to the works (simple stuff) then it would make like grand...

 

[nyjets53]

Have a 4-post ans so far have done numerous numerous oil changes, 3 brake jobs, 2 brake flushes, starter, radiator, all hoses, timing belt, ****** seal, and numerous other items...

No problems yet and haven't thought I should have gotton a 2 post yet...

 

[keperkey]

2 post versus 4 post? 2 post and a set of adaptors. My 2 post works like a 4 post when I want it to and a 2 post when I want it to. Drive on and off over 2 inch tall ramps. I can also switch back and forth between 2 to 4 and back with a car in the bay. This is not the solution for all cars and trucks. I made them to make my life a bit easer.

Working on a car using a 4 post lift is tedious to say the least. The decks are always in the way somehow.

Do you have a link to the adapters? I have searched the web and struck out.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Do you have a link to the adapters? I have searched the web and struck out.

As he said "I made them to make my life a bit easer. "

Charles

 

[ovilla]

sseaner- I purposely got the BendPak HD-9-B (normal height but Extra Wide) because I didn't ever want to have to deal with folding in mirrors or having to be extra careful when loading/unloading vehicles. As a result my columns are really wide apart, so much so that from the street you don't even really see them. My columns are a good foot or so wider than the door opening. My thought is simply that if you can make it through the single bay door, you'll have no problem driving up on the lift. Standard lifts are normally a bit narrower than your door opening and are made so that you can easily wheel the lift in/out through a standard single bay door.

Anyway, my columns are so far apart that right now I can't walk between the wall and the column. This is really not an issue since once the lift is up, I then walk under the car and get to the other side. Or if I raise the car just a little bit, I'll just walk over the ramp on that one side. You'll notice on the pic below that the ramps are currently set at 37" apart, the same width as a standard BendPak HD-9 series lift. However, I have a lot more space between the car itself and the columns so there's plenty of room to walk between them if needed.

As far as the ramps go, I've left them permanently attached in the upright position so as the lift is being raised they are perfectly parallel with the floor. This way they do not interfere with driving a car under the lift. I have the tip of the ramps about an inch from the door since I wanted to still have room in front of the lift for my tool chest and a future bench. (NOTE: The BendPak lift can be set up the way I have it or you can elect to have it so the ramps fold down as you raise the lift.) Anyway, this is not an issue for me as this door is only used for for driving in/out and not for normal everyday use. Well, actually my 7 year old daughter has no issues walking in/out through this door as the ramps are a little over 4' off the floor.

Finally, yes, you can fit an SUV on a normal sized lift but you'll have something like 6-8 inches on each side before you hit the side mirrors. Folding them in will give you more room but I just didn't want to have to deal with that. Anyway, let me know if you have other questions.

If anyone in Chicagoland is ever contemplating buying a BendPak HD-9 series lift, let me know if you'd like to come see mine in person.

 

[car99r]

sseaner- I purposely got the BendPak HD-9-B (normal height but Extra Wide) because I didn't ever want to have to deal with folding in mirrors or having to be extra careful when loading/unloading vehicles. As a result my columns are really wide apart, so much so that from the street you don't even really see them. My columns are a good foot or so wider than the door opening. My thought is simply that if you can make it through the single bay door, you'll have no problem driving up on the lift. Standard lifts are normally a bit narrower than your door opening and are made so that you can easily wheel the lift in/out through a standard single bay door.

Anyway, my columns are so far apart that right now I can't walk between the wall and the column. This is really not an issue since once the lift is up, I then walk under the car and get to the other side. Or if I raise the car just a little bit, I'll just walk over the ramp on that one side. You'll notice on the pic below that the ramps are currently set at 37" apart, the same width as a standard BendPak HD-9 series lift. However, I have a lot more space between the car itself and the columns so there's plenty of room to walk between them if needed.

As far as the ramps go, I've left them permanently attached in the upright position so as the lift is being raised they are perfectly parallel with the floor. This way they do not interfere with driving a car under the lift. I have the tip of the ramps about an inch from the door since I wanted to still have room in front of the lift for my tool chest and a future bench. (NOTE: The BendPak lift can be set up the way I have it or you can elect to have it so the ramps fold down as you raise the lift.) Anyway, this is not an issue for me as this door is only used for for driving in/out and not for normal everyday use. Well, actually my 7 year old daughter has no issues walking in/out through this door as the ramps are a little over 4' off the floor.

Finally, yes, you can fit an SUV on a normal sized lift but you'll have something like 6-8 inches on each side before you hit the side mirrors. Folding them in will give you more room but I just didn't want to have to deal with that. Anyway, let me know if you have other questions.

If anyone in Chicagoland is ever contemplating buying a BendPak HD-9 series lift, let me know if you'd like to come see mine in person.

Looks good!

Did you have to do something to your garage door to have it open closer to the ceiling? I was looking at mine today and I have 9' ceilings and 7' doors. I lose 2' of height with the garage door open and if I was to put a lift in there I would not be able to open door once car was in the air.

 

[ovilla]

I've got 10' ceilings, 7' doors, and low profile cars, so for the moment I just raised the original track about 5" higher at the end of the horizontal portion of the track. This works fine for parking my little 914's. When I'm working on my van (Honda Odessey) I drive in on the ramps, close the garage door, cut power to the garage door opener, and then raise the van as high as the ceiling will allow (still comfortable enough to walk under it for oil changes and such). It's not a perfect set up but it's working.

If I really want the garage door open while working on the van, I back it in to the garage as far as possible on the lift and then I manually open the door until it just about makes contact with the windshield and then jam a screwdriver into the garage rails so that the door is stuck in place. Keep in mind that you can also install your lift all the way towards the very back of your garage. If you do this, I doubt your door will ever be in the way of your lift.

Finally, I'm going to be ordering a high lift rail kit shortly, as soon as I figure out what I want to do with my garage doors.

 

[keperkey]

As he said "I made them to make my life a bit easer. "

Charles

Thanks. I totally read over that.