General Purpose Machine Oil

[rusty_ratchet]

I know that WD-40 and 3-in-1 oil are marketed as general purpose oils, but aren't good for a variety of reasons. So what is a good general purpose oil?

Note that by "general purpose" I'm thinking of an oil to wipe down my tools with, a sharpening oil for pocket knives, squeaky door hinges, etc.

I read once that a 50/50 mix of kerosene and 30 wt motor oil was a good all around mix to have around the shop. Any thoughts on this?

 

[LG63]

I have a few quarts of ATF that's no longer compatible with any of my current vehicles that I use as GP oil / cutting fluid. I think most ATF is about 10wt

 

[jakemac]

I read once that a 50/50 mix of kerosene and 30 wt motor oil was a good all around mix to have around the shop. Any thoughts on this?

I'm a heavy smoker, I don't think that would work out well for me.

 

[Vvmvbb]

What's wrong w/ WD-40 and 3-in-1 for general purpose?
You might try a Starrett oil or Singer oil

 

[LG63]

What's wrong w/ WD-40 and 3-in-1 for general purpose?

3-in-1 is good. WD-40 is mostly solvent, I will use it to free up a rusty parts but only as a stop gap lubricant until I can get the parts properly lubed with something better.

 

[rusty_ratchet]

I heard that 3-in-1 has organic compounds that get gummy with time. Have you experienced this?

 

[rusty_ratchet]

I'm a heavy smoker, I don't think that would work out well for me.

Oofta! That would be bad!

 

[G_P]

I'm a heavy smoker, I don't think that would work out well for me.

you can dunk a lit cigarette in a cup of gasoline and it wont ignite. Kero is much harder to get lit than gas. I would be more worried about a spark landing in a trash can.

 

[bob15]

Nothing wrong with 3 in 1 oil.

Also had good luck with MMO in the small bottle, Sili Kroil, Tri Flow (favorite). Longer protection, Fluid Film.

bob

 

[Vvmvbb]

3-in-1 is good. WD-40 is mostly solvent, I will use it to free up a rusty parts but only as a stop gap lubricant until I can get the parts properly lubed with something better.

The solvent is what's best about it. It's the 'kerosene' in the 'oil and kerosene mix' if you will. But yeah, the oil left behind is generally not very long lasting - too light I guess and migrates away - so there are better choices.

 

[LG63]

I heard that 3-in-1 has organic compounds that get gummy with time. Have you experienced this?

I've never seen it, but can't say that I was looking for it either. I just consider 3-in-1 oil to be a light mineral oil. I think it's popularity (and name recognition) may go back to the convenience of a small container with a dropper spout....... back before that was a common thing.

 

[The Cobbler]

I have a gallon of air tool oil that was thrown in when I bought my first nail gun (late 80's) I have a life time supply and it seems to work well for g.p. lubricant

 

[OccupantRJ]

We use AW68, which is a hydraulic oil, for general purpose lube, on everything from screw machines mechanisms, to general lube, to hydraulics. It makes a good general purpose light oil for about any moving mechanical parts and linkages.

 

[beamrider]

WD40 isn't really a lubricant, at least not at all long lasting. The real name is Water Displacement Formula #40. Works great, for what it was designed to do. That being said, air tool oil has always worked well as a general purpose lube around the house, at least for me.

 

[justanengineer]

I use WD40 quite a lot around the shop but prefer the various knockoff "spray lubricants" for lubricating purposes as they have more oil in them. Sounds to me tho like the OP needs the WD for cleaning/preserving/moisture blocking tools and sharpening, and maybe a knockoff for actual lubrication.

 

[AMC31B]

I have seen wd-40 gum up because it contains too much solvent but I have never had that happen with 3 in 1 oil. I have found 3 in 1 to work pretty well for most things. Motor oil or ATF makes a good basic machine oil but my favorite lubricant and rust preventer for tools, equipment and guns is Corrosion X, It is excellent stuff! I use it on everything and it works great. Breakfree CLP and most other "gun" oils work very well also.

 

[rusty_ratchet]

I've never seen it, but can't say that I was looking for it either. I just consider 3-in-1 oil to be a light mineral oil. I think it's popularity (and name recognition) may go back to the convenience of a small container with a dropper spout....... back before that was a common thing.

I'll give it a try then. I may do a comparison of several of the suggestions given here.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys!

 

[jeffmoss26]

3 in 1 oil is good, the Zoom Spout Oilers sold under a million names are also good.

 

[lilredex]

3 in 1 oil is good, the Zoom Spout Oilers sold under a million names are also good.

Turbine oil is my fav. Sold at HD here.


screenshot app

 

[zkling]

Hate to say it, but IMHO there is no really great all around one oil that will do it all.

Cutting oil and lubrication oil different animals. I know some old timers that use motor oil and kerosese in a spray bottle to prevent rust on machines. It works for that, but is a nasty process. Plus the atomizing of flamable fluids like that can be a real danger.

I use a couple things on a regular basis.
Kroil for penetration
Tapmagic for cutting threads
I don't run much flood coolant, but when I do I use something blue cut with water, it is cheap and gets the job done. Sorry can't remember off the top of my head.
30wt non det, is kinda my general purpose "shop oil" if you will. For wiping things down.
Johnsons paste wax for the wood machines
I use water for sharpening stones, but I'll leave that option up to you. Just don't try changing one the stone is soaked. If you must use an oil minearl oil is pretty good for that.
Machines get specific way or spindle oil.

Just a few off the top of my head

 

[holt2ton]

I always collect the Vactra #2 way oil from my milling machines...before it gets poured into the waste oil barrel. Heck I even use it for bar oil on my chain saw...yes I know its not as "sticky" as true bar oil, but anything free is worth saving up for...and it works really good.

 

[Steinmetz]

I know that WD-40 and 3-in-1 oil are marketed as general purpose oils, but aren't good for a variety of reasons. So what is a good general purpose oil?

Note that by "general purpose" I'm thinking of an oil to wipe down my tools with, a sharpening oil for pocket knives, squeaky door hinges, etc.

I read once that a 50/50 mix of kerosene and 30 wt motor oil was a good all around mix to have around the shop. Any thoughts on this?

Kano Microil.

 

[Falcon67]

I use ATF - it has detergents that helps clean metal surfaces and leaves a film that doesn't get gummy. WD-40 works as a good cutting tool lube for aluminum. ATF is a good lube for porting aluminum heads.

 

[jmm]

Hate to say it, but IMHO there is no really great all around one oil that will do it all.

Like usual, more often than not, I agree with ZK. I keep a few things on hand for different purposes. For penetrating I like the 50/50 homebrew and Kroil. If something needs submerging, I use ATF. Use a middle weight oil for drilling and thread cutting. Sharpening, I use water on my finest stones, very thin oil on the coarser ones. Wipedowns I'll use whatever's closest.

 

[Outlawmws]

Hate to say it, but IMHO there is no really great all around one oil that will do it all.

Cutting oil and lubrication oil different animals. I know some old timers that use motor oil and kerosese in a spray bottle to prevent rust on machines. It works for that, but is a nasty process. Plus the atomizing of flamable fluids like that can be a real danger.

I use a couple things on a regular basis.
Kroil for penetration
Tapmagic for cutting threads
I don't run much flood coolant, but when I do I use something blue cut with water, it is cheap and gets the job done. Sorry can't remember off the top of my head.
30wt non det, is kinda my general purpose "shop oil" if you will. For wiping things down.
Johnsons paste wax for the wood machines
I use water for sharpening stones, but I'll leave that option up to you. Just don't try changing one the stone is soaked. If you must use an oil minearl oil is pretty good for that.
Machines get specific way or spindle oil.

Just a few off the top of my head

For the most part this^^^

Ain't no such thing as a "general purpose oil/lubricant"

For sharpening knives (assuming an oil stone), always use mineral oil. (food safe) Buck adn the other knife maker knife sharpener companies repackage Mineral oil for this reason. so save a lot of money and get it at the drug store...

Agreed with everyone who said WD is more solvent than oil, and yes its best use is for displacing water. It is supposedly pretty good as a cutting oil for aluminum for getting a nice finish.

Sewing machine oils (including 3 in one) will dry out over time. (utter **** for long term oiling) Gun oil is much better, and the good ones with Teflon are the best in category for very light oils. (like break free or Rem oil)

Door-Ease is a good "dry" stick lubricant (basically beeswax)

I learned recently the ATF is best for things that have O-rings. (I'ts what Crossman sells as "air gun oil")

If ATF is not suitable for the application, then Vaseline also works well on O-rings, and is less prone to turn the O-rings into mush.

BTW ATF is primarily a hydraulic fluid, (VERY high temp...) and the proof of the pudding is that Auto trannys are full of O rings, and those last for a LONG time... It is however a VERY low viscosity.

Bottom line; use the proper oil/lube for the use intended...

 

[platform389]

I like this for most purposes.

 

[ilovevocs]

I use corrosion x over wd 40, its a far superior product. I also like to keep some marvel mystery oil around. I use it as my go to lube for machining.

 

[Dave455]

I just went to my motor factors and got a gallon of generic SAE 30 oil! They sell it as a general 'machine oil' and that's what I use it for!

For something thinner I got some SAE 10 'air tool oil' from the same source! Comparable to 3 in 1 but I got a gallon for not much more money than a large tin of 3 in 1!

Like the rest of the guys I use Starrett oil for anything really fine, or CLP if I want a dry lube! The latter is really good for protecting tools by the way!

 

[Adam.C]

I like this for most purposes.

This is straight mineral oil available from the pharmacy or grocery store for a few bucks a gallon. And that is the answer to the OPs question. Straight mineral oil is an excellent general purpose non drying, non yellowing, food grade oil. Oil your rifle barrel, wooden stock, oilstone, salad bowl, or door hinge with it. I put a thin film on my machinist tools-even coat out my gage blocks with it.

 

[zkling]

I like this for most purposes.

So hypothetically if you were to oil, O I don't know, say your avatar, what oil would you use?

 

[Outlawmws]

Hmmm, many body oils are mineral oil based...