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General questions on mini-splits

MrFurious

Member
Joined
May 26, 2008
Messages
6
Location
NW Ohio
Just found this site the other day and am I ever glad I did. I'm getting ready to put up a 36x40 garage with 10-foot ceilings, and the one area I've been stumped with is how to heat/cool it as we have no gas or LP to the house. It would be about a 200-foot run to put a line back to the new shop, and being in town I really don't want a tank. So, that pretty much leaves electric as my only real option.

I've looked at radiant floor heat, but the $4,000 I was quoted just for components (not including the foam underlayment) was more than my budget will allow. There's also a real concern with being able to find an electric water heater that has a fast enough recovery rate to work with the system.

So, that's lead me to these mini-split systems I've just recently learned about while browsing these pages.

As for my questions, my main one is how low of temperatures are they good for? It typically stays below 20* during the winter months here in northern Ohio, with several days dipping as low as -20* with the windchill. Most of what I've been able to find so far only shows mini-split systems being rated down to zero degrees at best.

Second question would be if it's possible to run two inside units on a single zone. The garage area will be 24x36 and I was looking to use two 12k/Btu units on the opposing 24' walls using a single thermostat rather than a single 24k/Btu unit. This would let me get away with a larger 2-zone unit as the second zone (16x20 workshop) could be heated/cooled with a single 12k/Btu unit.

My third would be what are the better brands that have been around awhile. I've seen some units being sold fairly cheap on Ebay (Bon Air, Klimaire, Harbor Point, etc), but I can't find any other info on those brands outside flee-bay and I'm a real stickler when it comes to being able to get parts or service down the road.

Finally, how hard are these systems to add onto? I'll have a 16x40 loft with 8' ceiling and might want to finish it out down the road and add heat/air to it as well.

BTW, the garage will be 2x6 construction and insulated to he|| and back, so my loss rate shouldn't be too gawd-awful.
 
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gesoffen

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2007
Messages
341
Location
NoVA
I'm sure some of the HVAC folks will chime in with details but I'll give it a shot:
1) Unless the systems your'e looking at have an "emergency" heat (aka resistance element), they won't work at all in sustained 20 temps. As with most other heat pumps systems (geothermal being the exception), they will not produce heat in cold temps (37 is the typical balance point). If you get one with resistance elements, you'll be using those to supplement the heat pump function of the mini-split. In temps that cold, the resistance element will be on practically whenever the thermostat turns on the heat pump.
2) Don't see why not but hopefully some of the HVAC guys will provide more details.
3) Sanyo and Mitsubishi are the big names. Make sure whatever you're looking at is a heat pump (not just and AC) and has resistance heat.

Considering your climate, I'm not sure that a heat pump is the ideal solution for primary heating. It'll work well in the shoulder seasons with cool temps and during AC season but for the dead of winter (with temps like you describe), they're really out of their element and your efficiency will suffer. With your insulation, you'll be better off than most. An LP tank isn't that unsightly as they can be hidden pretty easily. Another option to consider would be geothermal heating/cooling but that can have a very expensive up front cost. With energy costs going nowhere but up, I'd suggest focusing your money on an efficient system.
Regardless of whether you go with radiant floor heat, I'd still do the under slab insulation.
 
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rsanter

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2007
Messages
18,506
Location
visalia ca
air exchange heat pumps will typically start to loose effectiveness at about 30-50 degrees.
I have heard of some that will work as low as 0-10 degrees but at lower efficiency

check with the manufacturer

bob
 
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MrFurious

Member
Joined
May 26, 2008
Messages
6
Location
NW Ohio
Yeah, I had noticed most don't seem to be rated for very low temperatures. I did see however that Mitsubishi has their P-Series Hyper Heating Inverter models that are rated at near 100% efficiency down to 5* and drop to around 75% at -13*. Figured I could use a salamander style heater as a booster to get the inside air temp up quickly on those extra cold days to take the load off the main system.

One thing that does surprise me though is that those systems with a supplemental heating element use a standard wire element. They'd be a lot more efficient is they changed them to a hydronic element like they use in the better electric baseboard heaters. Changed all the houses standard wire element baseboard heaters over to the hydronic style last summer and my electric bill dropped 30% compared tot he previous winter.
 
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