General welding question
- Thread starter AK_Willy
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Kpaige
Well-known member
Ok so not going to read all the other comments but I know lots will say school etc. If you want to really get technical about it go that way. But I decided to weld went and bought a mig welder and started welding. Get yourself an average mid level mig welder, most come with an auto darken helmet and gloves. You can start with flux core wire .35 or .30 this allows you to not use gas but it’s messier welds. Pick up any scraps you can old bed frames etc. look up a few videos and start welding. I made my first project be the cart that holds my welder.
Have fun with it. Don’t stress.
Couple tools you will want with it, 4” angle grinder with cut off wheels and flapper /grinding wheels, some welding pliers welding apron or jacket. Work on just steel for now.
I am self taught but can now weld steel stainless and aluminum and use the same Hobart handler mig and a cheaper tig for aluminum and stainless.
Kpaige
Well-known member
Here is an average Hobart for mig
But I have heard great things on these
www.harborfreight.com
This is the tig setup I use and you can stick weld with it but tig is tougher to learn.
But I have heard great things on these
MIGMax™ 215 Industrial Welder with 120/240V Input
Amazing deals on this Migmax 215 Industrial Mig Welder at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
This is the tig setup I use and you can stick weld with it but tig is tougher to learn.
Zeke
Well-known member
I have that TIG and it's been the same price for over 3 years. I'm very happy with it.Here is an average Hobart for mig
But I have heard great things on these
MIGMax™ 215 Industrial Welder with 120/240V Input
Amazing deals on this Migmax 215 Industrial Mig Welder at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
This is the tig setup I use and you can stick weld with it but tig is tougher to learn.
Farmall450
Well-known member
The difference being you can still get the Miller board - good luck getting an Eastwood one. Send me the Miller, I'll dispose of it
Absolutely! Don’t try something thin like a car body to start out. Start with something like 1/8 thick
I agree. The best bang for your buck is probably going to be a PrimeWeld or Hobart MIG welder. Lincoln if you can catch a sale. Miller is great but expensive. Other brands may be good but my experience has been it’s hard to beat the balance price, warranty, and service from PrimeWeld or Hobart.
My first MIG was a small LincolnI bought around 1997. I traded it to a friend around 2008 and I bought a Miller 180. The Lincoln finally gave up the ghost last year or the year before. My buddy calls me up and asks to borrow the Miller. I did the same play, sold the Miller 180 to him, and I upgraded to a Hobart Ironman 240. I’ve personally owned those three MIG welders: Lincoln, Miller, Hobart and they are all good.
As others have mentioned, ITW owns both Miller and Hobart. When I got the Ironman, I could not find the liner size in the documentation, so I called the 1-800 support number. The guy said the Ironman is a Miller 252 without the digital readouts. So it is essentially a Miller without some features.
When I was looking to get into AC TIG welding for aluminum, I researched a bunch of brands: Miller, Hobart, Lincoln, AHP, Everlast, Longevity, Eastwood, and PrimeWeld. I ended up with the PrimeWeld 225x as it had everything needed in the box - no add ons to buy to get running, was well priced, had a great warranty, and support. The manual is high quality and written by a native English speaker. I would not hesitate to buy any PrimeWeld product. They are absolutely not junk, they are good machines.
The PrimeWeld 285 just recently came out. It wasn’t available when I got my Ironman. The whole reason I upgraded my MIG was more amps for aluminum. If the PrimeWeld 285 was out and had a spool gun, I would have got it.
Based on what you described, I’d go with one of these:
MTS200 200 Amp 3-in-1 Welder
The PrimeWeld MTS200 200 Amp TIG, MIG, and Stick 3-in-1 Welder performs DC MIG, Flux Core/TIG, and Stick welding for the perfect weld, every time.
primeweld.com
MIG180 180-Amp MIG Welder With Spool Gun
The MIG180 mig welder includes upgraded Tweco 100 Style torch and American style connection. Order online today from PrimeWeld to get free shipping.
primeweld.com
Handler® 190 MIG Welder | HobartWelders
A industrial performance welder capable of operating on 230V. A quick, easy-to-setup, reliable, durable flux-core & MIG ready. Welds up to 5/16", and up to 190A output power. Find out more.
www.hobartwelders.com
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toolmiser
Well-known member
Can't really help you, but here is advice a teacher in college gave us in a welding class. "If you don't learn anything else in class, know that if you have a weld that needs to work, get someone who knows how to do it." Not saying you won't get there, but make sure you know what you are doing before welding something that needs to hold
finn
Well-known member
Doesn’t matter if you can get a brand new import with a three year warranty at less cost than a board for a twenty year old Miller, does it?The difference being you can still get the Miller board - good luck getting an Eastwood one. Send me the Miller, I'll dispose of it
I have a Primeweld, couple of HTPs, and an almost new Miller. I am not convinced the Miller was a good value, although it is a nice machine.
The Primeweld was a good value.
Farmall450
Well-known member
No one is arguing Miller is a value welder- heck even their parent company makes Hobarts for that. Used board and board repair are both options - on the Miller.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
I forgot to add, the inexpensive multi-process machine that say they do BOTH MIG and TIG typically have some serious TIG limitations.
- Scratch/lift arc TIG. Again, it works, but not recommended for a novice.
- DC aluminum welding. Yes it can be done, but not for the novice !
- DC aluminum welding requires unique gas mixture so you are going to need a second bottle
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
My additional 2¢ ! Like painting, good quality welds require preparation.
- The metal must be clean ! ZERO rust/oxidation !!
- The joint needs to fit together well. Filling in gaps can be done, but you will spend more time grinding latter if you want it to look decent.
- Thicker metal must be beveled at the edges where the joint meets.
jmiller_2308
Well-known member
Yes yes yes, you have to see it to get a good weld. I mostly have issues with light as even when my auto darkening helmet hasn't switched to dark mode it still shades enough light that if I don't have enough light on my weld area I can miss when I starting my arc.
I have placed lights on my work surface before but that doesn't always get light where I want and flash issues usually end up wrecking the light. I'll have to try the helmet light suggestion but I also just recently saw this type of light that attaches to your torch.
I suspect it might suffer flash issues while welding but it sure seems like it would be a great way to get light where you need it. Does anybody have any opinions or experience using one of these?
jonesg
Well-known member
But I have heard great things on these
MIGMax™ 215 Industrial Welder with 120/240V Input
Amazing deals on this Migmax 215 Industrial Mig Welder at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
HF migmax is $900, no warranty after 90 days, "you can always take it back",
oops...theres a 20% restocking fee , thats minus $180.
compare to Primeweld 185. $550.
3 yr warranty, comes with spoolgun , HF doesn't come with spoolgun.
By the time you add a gas tank, warranty and spoolgun to the HF the price has gone up to $1400.
To fully equip the Primeweld with gas, and be alum capable, it still costs less than HF at $900 base price.
HF is the poor mans ripoff.
"but the hf machine welds so smooth", so does my $350 yeswelder mig. and it has 12 month money back warranty.
jonesg
Well-known member
mig and stick will do everything for you,
decent mig/stick/tig machines come fully supplied to do that ,
with dual voltage, flow gauge and even a spool gun for alum, you just supply the wire and gas.
the Primeweld mig 185 is the better bang for the buck, with 3 yr warranty their support and service is legendary.
with a multi capable machine you can try the different modes , you'll find which one suits you.
for quick and dirty outdoor welding , for me, stick wins, for speed i like flux core mig, for clean indoor mig welds i use gas .
my machine does steel tig but i've never bothered trying it.
The chinese imports today are not the same junk they made 10 years ago.
jonesg
Well-known member
I tried everything and I still couldn't see using flux core,Yes yes yes, you have to see it to get a good weld. I mostly have issues with light as even when my auto darkening helmet hasn't switched to dark mode it still shades enough light that if I don't have enough light on my weld area I can miss when I starting my arc.
I have placed lights on my work surface before but that doesn't always get light where I want and flash issues usually end up wrecking the light. I'll have to try the helmet light suggestion but I also just recently saw this type of light that attaches to your torch.
I suspect it might suffer flash issues while welding but it sure seems like it would be a great way to get light where you need it. Does anybody have any opinions or experience using one of these?
then I tried using gas and it was much better, theres less smoke and the arc isn't as bright or violent.
lynnbilodeau
Well-known member
I am going to buck the trend just a bit. While I fully agree with the recommendations to find a class (most have said community college... around here in OK, there are a LOT of VoTech schools that offer evening classes), I think the BEST way to learn is to start with Oxy-Acetylene. Nothing will teach you how to start and manipulate a "pool" better that gas. It will make the transition to MIG very easy. JMHO, but you will likely produce much better welds right off the bat with MIG if you first learned gas. Once you start using MIG, start with some scrap of 1/8 inch; then go to 1/16, and LASTLY practice on sheet metal. Most guys buy a MIG and start in on sheet simply because they want to do auto body repair on a 50 year old car. It is delicate work, and it is easy to get frustrated blowing through.
This is very much an "it depends" thing for the OP
If you are only semi=serious about welding, stick with the value brands as others have recommended. If you are serious though, have to think in terms of quality and support more than price. In my case, I bought welders for production almost 40 years ago. My Lincoln SP200 DC Mig has had one major repair in that time and parts were easy. My fairly expensive AC/DC/CC Miller 250 has never failed me and I still use it (NOT very energy efficient, but dead reliable and capable mainly AC Tig use). BUT: My ultra-premium AC push-pull ESAB from that era is worthless today as NO SUPPORT. Similarly 15 year old Hypertherm plasma still in use, but when the consumables are gone, so is it...due to NO SUPPORT.. I needed to replace the push-pull and there were not a lot of good options, so went with Miller 255 and aluma-pro air cooled gun (All of which STUNNINGLY expensive!) but when you get that level of performance, not a lot of choices.
Another concern that I hinted about is efficiency. If you are power supply limited, you really need to stick to the much more expensive inverter welders rather than transformers. Had to do a remote job at height a few years back and the transformer Lincoln I had bought for the purpose just wouldn't work on a 20A 120vAC line. I gave it away and bought a 211 Miller and was able to do with ease what the xfrmr welder could not. Bonus was it was far, far easier to carry around on ladders and scaffolding (left gas bottle on ground with long hose). Not saying you need a 211 but am saying a good inverter welder is infinitely better than a good transformer - but now the issue of long term support comes into play.
If you are only semi=serious about welding, stick with the value brands as others have recommended. If you are serious though, have to think in terms of quality and support more than price. In my case, I bought welders for production almost 40 years ago. My Lincoln SP200 DC Mig has had one major repair in that time and parts were easy. My fairly expensive AC/DC/CC Miller 250 has never failed me and I still use it (NOT very energy efficient, but dead reliable and capable mainly AC Tig use). BUT: My ultra-premium AC push-pull ESAB from that era is worthless today as NO SUPPORT. Similarly 15 year old Hypertherm plasma still in use, but when the consumables are gone, so is it...due to NO SUPPORT.. I needed to replace the push-pull and there were not a lot of good options, so went with Miller 255 and aluma-pro air cooled gun (All of which STUNNINGLY expensive!) but when you get that level of performance, not a lot of choices.
Another concern that I hinted about is efficiency. If you are power supply limited, you really need to stick to the much more expensive inverter welders rather than transformers. Had to do a remote job at height a few years back and the transformer Lincoln I had bought for the purpose just wouldn't work on a 20A 120vAC line. I gave it away and bought a 211 Miller and was able to do with ease what the xfrmr welder could not. Bonus was it was far, far easier to carry around on ladders and scaffolding (left gas bottle on ground with long hose). Not saying you need a 211 but am saying a good inverter welder is infinitely better than a good transformer - but now the issue of long term support comes into play.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
AHP Alpha-TIG 203 or AHP Alpha-TIG 225 ?
I don't know the difference (other than max current and more knobs) but Amazon lists them for the same price at this moment !
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
You need a torch and a regulator and gas. Scratch start. More difficult for novices.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
I am glad you like your Hobart Handler 140 ! If ones primary goal is TIG, I would not buy that machine. The Alpha TIG are much better for $100 more. Of course, they do NOT do MIG !
Whether your goal is MIG or TIG, for a beginner, I still stand by
Crazyjake8493
Well-known member
The light on the helmet is a good trick if you already have an old helmet, but if he's buying a new helmet there's no reason not to get an auto-darkening helmet.Couple personal experiences on MIG & flux core.
Welding w/ wire demands accuracy of your arc. If you cant see it it wont look or be the best.
Add a strong light attached to your helmet. Directed at the weld. Even w/ 20/20 vision you’ll crank out better welds w/ cheaters.
Proficiency comes from lots of practice. If you do it for a living you get good quickly. If you do it once every three months, you forget the subtleties that make it ll come together.
Yesterday.
Crazyjake8493
Well-known member
Look up Welding Tips & Tricks on Youtube. Jody has an extensive library now and he's a great teacher. TimWelds is another good channel for beginners.
For a beginner, I'd get a 240v MIG welder and start off with gasless flux core to save start up costs. You can make some great welds with flux core with the proper setup. Not as pretty as MIG, and you can't weld quite as thin, but for the majority of projects it's just fine. Get some good flux wire like Lincoln Innershield.
There's 120 volt MIG/flux machines out there but in my experiences with them I found them to be frustrating. If you need portability on occasion, a dual 120/240v machine would be the way to go.
Get an auto-darkening helmet right from the start. Any cheap one is decent, I've had the black w/ blue flames helmet from Harbor Freight for years.
If you don't already have an angle grinder, get yourself one with some cutting discs, grinding discs, and flap wheels. Good prep is key to a good weld. Clamps and angle magnets help as well, but you'll figure out what you need as you go.
For a beginner, I'd get a 240v MIG welder and start off with gasless flux core to save start up costs. You can make some great welds with flux core with the proper setup. Not as pretty as MIG, and you can't weld quite as thin, but for the majority of projects it's just fine. Get some good flux wire like Lincoln Innershield.
There's 120 volt MIG/flux machines out there but in my experiences with them I found them to be frustrating. If you need portability on occasion, a dual 120/240v machine would be the way to go.
Get an auto-darkening helmet right from the start. Any cheap one is decent, I've had the black w/ blue flames helmet from Harbor Freight for years.
If you don't already have an angle grinder, get yourself one with some cutting discs, grinding discs, and flap wheels. Good prep is key to a good weld. Clamps and angle magnets help as well, but you'll figure out what you need as you go.
nadogail
Well-known member
If you can’t be a good Weldor, learn to be a good Grinder.
Quality work is all about Quality Control; just as the most important piece of reputation building equipment in a Professional Photographer’s Dark Room is the Waste Basket, grinding out your bad welds and redoing them, will build your reputation as a Weldor.
Quality work is all about Quality Control; just as the most important piece of reputation building equipment in a Professional Photographer’s Dark Room is the Waste Basket, grinding out your bad welds and redoing them, will build your reputation as a Weldor.
Sweetcorn
Well-known member
I deal with shops commercially, on a large scale, every day.
If I walked into a potentially new vendor's shop, and saw he only had Eastwood machines, I'd turn right around and leave.
I can say confidently that any of my peers in similar positions to me would do the same.
I understand justifying cheaper units for home use, but not commercially. Like it or not, if someone wants to be taken as a serious shop, they have some image requirements to maintain. That may not be fair, but that's how it is.
Even auto dark, which is essential leaves a lot of filter that obstructs my need for pinpoint vision.🫣
ShaneWayne
New member
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2023
- Messages
- 4
Get the little Lincoln flux core box at HD. It runs on 110v and can make some pretty nice welds. Its a good quality unit for what it is.
Watch a couple of YouTube vids. After that just practice. By the time you start making some nice welds with that little flux core box you'll be ready to transition to a 220v unit with shielding gas.
I've kept mine and rarely use anything else as far as hobbyist welding goes. But when I need to repair something larger, I break out the old Lincoln red face.
Watch a couple of YouTube vids. After that just practice. By the time you start making some nice welds with that little flux core box you'll be ready to transition to a 220v unit with shielding gas.
I've kept mine and rarely use anything else as far as hobbyist welding goes. But when I need to repair something larger, I break out the old Lincoln red face.
finn
Well-known member
Just about the only shop in town, so that makes a difference. The next closest shops are fifteen miles away, but they mostly do production / aerospace type welding, so they’re pretty booked up and don’t do smaller non production run jobs, for the most part. This guy lives on small fab projects.
Plus it’s a two man shop
Jswain
Well-known member
Bean counters in the industry will switch brands of pencils, if they figure at 3 cents saved per pencil and each pencil lasting 99.7% as long will save them xxxx dollhairs per year.
ALL the bean counters at EVERY company in EVERY major industry must just be blinded
Walk in any welding shop/welding truck/automotive repair shop in North America and get a tally of the brand of welders...
When you look at the money spent vs. equipment lifetime & repair costs then you get a value on the machine, the original price is just a piece of the equation.
Some things are not easily quantifiable, if they were quantifiable and consequently added to the equation, bean counters may make different decisions. The problem is seldom do they talk to the guy in the shop……
Where I work, it is all Millers. We had some Lincoln’s years ago and they welded fine, but when you needed a circuit board you couldn’t just get that, you had to get all the guts just about. With Millers, we found we were able to get just the circuit board we needed. It’s not often something breaks, but this is a shop where the welders are running all day every day.
I could not justify a $6,000 AC TIG welder for home use when I could get a decent one for $900.
www.millerwelds.com
primeweld.com
The OP is looking for something at home, not a production shop.
Even a Miller 211 MIG is $1900
www.millerwelds.com
A Miller 142 is $1000
www.millerwelds.com
For half that at $550, you can get a PrimeWeld 180 with spool gun for aluminum.
primeweld.com
Where I work, it is all Millers. We had some Lincoln’s years ago and they welded fine, but when you needed a circuit board you couldn’t just get that, you had to get all the guts just about. With Millers, we found we were able to get just the circuit board we needed. It’s not often something breaks, but this is a shop where the welders are running all day every day.
I could not justify a $6,000 AC TIG welder for home use when I could get a decent one for $900.
Dynasty® 210 TIG Welders | MillerWelds
Maximum flexibility - Miller combines advanced inverter technology with Auto-Line™ technology, offering the most flexible AC/DC TIG/Stick power supply in the welding industry.
www.millerwelds.com
TIG225X AC/DC TIG Welder With Pulse
Meet the powerful and versatile TIG225X AC/DC TIG Welder—PrimeWeld's top-selling model! Equipped with everything you need to start welding, it caters to both hobbyists and professionals. Order yours online today at PrimeWeld! How to Choose Your Torch: CK17 - 12.5ft - 150 amps - Air Cooled CK17 -...
primeweld.com
The OP is looking for something at home, not a production shop.
Even a Miller 211 MIG is $1900
Millermatic® 211 MIG Welder | MillerWelds
Welds material from 24 gauge - 3/8 in. thick in a single pass. Find Millermatic 211 product specifications, features, and reviews.
www.millerwelds.com
A Miller 142 is $1000
Millermatic® 142 MIG Welder | MillerWelds
MIG and flux cored 120 V welder that welds from 24 gauge – 3/16 in. mild steel.
www.millerwelds.com
For half that at $550, you can get a PrimeWeld 180 with spool gun for aluminum.
MIG180 180-Amp MIG Welder With Spool Gun
The MIG180 mig welder includes upgraded Tweco 100 Style torch and American style connection. Order online today from PrimeWeld to get free shipping.
primeweld.com
finn
Well-known member
Right. The op is working in his garage, and not starting a multi million dollar welding and fabrication business.Some things are not easily quantifiable, if they were quantifiable and consequently added to the equation, bean counters may make different decisions. The problem is seldom do they talk to the guy in the shop……
Where I work, it is all Millers. We had some Lincoln’s years ago and they welded fine, but when you needed a circuit board you couldn’t just get that, you had to get all the guts just about. With Millers, we found we were able to get just the circuit board we needed. It’s not often something breaks, but this is a shop where the welders are running all day every day.
I could not justify a $6,000 AC TIG welder for home use when I could get a decent one for $900.
Dynasty® 210 TIG Welders | MillerWelds
Maximum flexibility - Miller combines advanced inverter technology with Auto-Line™ technology, offering the most flexible AC/DC TIG/Stick power supply in the welding industry.
TIG225X AC/DC TIG Welder With Pulse
Meet the powerful and versatile TIG225X AC/DC TIG Welder—PrimeWeld's top-selling model! Equipped with everything you need to start welding, it caters to both hobbyists and professionals. Order yours online today at PrimeWeld! How to Choose Your Torch: CK17 - 12.5ft - 150 amps - Air Cooled CK17 -...
The OP is looking for something at home, not a production shop.
I guess this is GJ, though, where many posters don’t have that distinction.
If I hear the trite phrase buy once, cry once” one more time, I’m going to puke
Jswain
Well-known member
Sorry my friend, but they do not need to talk to the guy in the shop. At any sizable company it becomes "MIG welder #1" with a purchase price and acquisition date along with a rolling $$ spent on repairs and then the date which they retire it and it cost xxxx $$/day
There is a reason why they pay the bean counters(usually good money) to do the bean counting...
I love the Millers personally, I personally think they are the best. But the price is at the top too. The other factor is that other companies are making a quality product. 2 different guys where I work have Everlast machines. These guys are career welders doing work on the side and have nothing but good things to say about Everlast. I don’t think it’s as straight forward anymore as Lincoln and Miller are good and everything else is junk. It’s just not like that now.
Jswain
Well-known member
You don't need to start a multimillion dollar business to grab a calculator, or around here perhaps anRight. The op is working in his garage, and not starting a multi million dollar welding and fabrication business.
I guess this is GJ, though, where many posters don’t have that distinction.
If I hear the trite phrase buy once, cry once” one more time, I’m going to puke
, don't wanna get too techy
If you can't figure out what a machine costs to run/year or don't think it's important then that's another good reason for bean counters.
They may not have to, but sometimes they should. I’ve seen first hand many a great decision on paper turn out to be a disaster.
Finance guy tells me one time he’s getting this solenoid valve from x,y,z company. I said no, we need to get a Parker Gold Ring from this vendor for reasons a,b,c,d. Long story short, after field failures and customer complaints and a lot of warranty cost we ended up going with Parker Gold Ring valves from the vendor I recommended, it was an already approved vendor anyway. It was too costly not to. Bean counter trying to be cheap thinking valve is just a commodity. Yep it is, but has to meet the engineering specs. As the project engineer, I tested the valves, actuated them off an on in an oven and recorded cycles with a counter. I knew which ones lasted and which ones didn’t. I also knew the pressure relief valve setting had to be set to a close tolerance or the product performance would be off. I was working for a fortune 200 company at the time, you’ve heard of it. Customer was another large company, you’ve heard of it as well. Disaster happen - bean counter no listen. When disaster happen, plant manager call engineer to carpet. Engineer bring test data and test technician. Plant manager yell at bean counter boss and bean counter boss put bean counter on performance improvment plan.
Sometimes bean counter wrong.
Sometimes bean counter right, but sometimes wrong.
In this case, a cheaper machine for home use is appropriate. Then later upgrade or sell if necessary. If we were running production, then of course not. Where I work, it is all Miller welders. But the rolling machine we use a few times a year is not the most expensive machine out there. We’d be wasting money if we bought a high end rolling machine with functionality we’ll never use.
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Beelzeboss
Well-known member
I bought a low hour 2nd hand Syncrowave 250DX for home use, with the understanding that it would basically never wear out under my limited use.
6 months later the main board shat itself, $2k USD for the replacement + installation. I got rid of the machine for basically scrap value instead and bought a cheaper inverter machine from a respected, but still made in China, brand. Zero regrets, the new machine was half the cost of the Miller board replacement and hasn't had a single issue. I don't think I'll ever buy another Miller machine.
6 months later the main board shat itself, $2k USD for the replacement + installation. I got rid of the machine for basically scrap value instead and bought a cheaper inverter machine from a respected, but still made in China, brand. Zero regrets, the new machine was half the cost of the Miller board replacement and hasn't had a single issue. I don't think I'll ever buy another Miller machine.
finn
Well-known member
Perfect example
Jswain
Well-known member
If that was common miller wouldn't be where they are.
Toyota's don't hold their resale value because they die after 3 years, but if you bought one and it did then you probably would have a bad taste in your mouth and maybe write about it on the internet. The 3,000,0000 people who bought the same vehicle as you with 0 issues don't tend to say much about it though.
jsaw
Well-known member
I have used a carbon stick in the electrode holder to strike an arc and use everdur silicon bronze filler rod. That did not require any shielding gas.
Beelzeboss
Well-known member
Actually it's extremely common with the Syncrowave's, a quick google shows hundreds of the same failure mode and Miller even introduced an updated main board and a few other replacement components that (apparently) make it less likely to brick itself, but won't recall the original machines with the known fault.