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Generator connections

NWOhioChevyGuy

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OK I have been in the process of getting ready to install an emergency generator for going on two years now and finally bought the generator.

Main Generator meter panel was installed when I upgraded my service entry two summers ago. It has a manual interlock on it that will be manually switched when powered off the generator. This was purchased from my POCO so I know it is what they want.

The house will be fed off the 50 amp generator feed at this panel.

Here is my question.

I also have a hot tub and I would like to power its heater so as not have to drain it during a winter power outage.

Will I be OK with keeping it & the house powered off the 50 amp feed or should I install a separate 30 amp feed to it for when running off the generator? If a separate hook up is needed I would install it inline to the hot tub and separate it / throw breaker when running on the generator.

Generator is a Generac GP17500E
 
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kd3pc

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Your 17.5KW (rated at 75amps) is conservatively rated.....ie You do not have enough power to run both the house and the hot tub at the same time. You can alternate one or the other if the breaker panels are set up to do so. It only has 30 amp connections which should tell you what it can be expected to power.

The hot tub will require full power (mine does) to heat the water, as the pumps are required to use "heat mode" so as to not burn up the heating elements. That could easily use your entire 50amps, mine does when at full pump, full circulation and heat and lights on.

Depending on what is wired to the "house" backup panel, you will likely find that that the 50-70 amps is lacking to run the entire house. You may want to consult "power" worksheets...to see what start load and running load will be for those things you want to power.

Fuel usage will have to be considered as well, 15KW will use somewhere between 3 and 4 gallons of gasoline per HOUR full load. How you manage this may be an issue. $12-15 per hour of operation in fuel costs alone. And refueling every 4 hours.

The hot tub will not freeze for a few days (weeks, in my case) if it is well built, insulated and covered. Check with the maker to see what they say. Mine is a Dimension1 spa.

Best of luck.
 
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NWOhioChevyGuy

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The Generator has a 50A outlet & breaker and also a couple 30A outlets.

The fuel usage will be eventually addressed by running the unit on Propane and having a 200-300lb tank setting there ready to use. Gasoline will be a back up if needed and initially the fuel of choice until LP can be installed.

The 50A lead will go to the house and the 30A lead will be installed to the Hot Tub, this tub has two circuits one 20A & one 30A one is the heater and the other is the jet pumps. I won't be installing enough power to use it fully only to keep it from freezing. I can not locate my manual at the moment but if memory serves me the 20A circuit is for the heater.

$12-$15/hour doesn't bother me or I wouldn't have bought the unit. Not like I am off the grid and going to use the generator 24/7/365.

The 17500W is running amps on this unit it has a starting capacity of 26250W.

I see whole house units running AC and other things, don't know why this wouldn't run a heater.
 
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NWOhioChevyGuy

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OK found my manual, and the Hot Tub has a 4000W heater and runs off the 20A breaker in the sub panel. This includes the small circulation pump for the heating system.
Considering the 30A supply from the generator is 7500W i don't see why this would not be sufficient to keep the hot tub warm.

In the house I will have minimal running; Furnace (fuel oil), well pump 1/3HP, Fridge, Freezer, small fish tank, potentially TV & some lighting.

NO A/C, main loads will be during winter.
If used during the summer, it will not run the Hot Tub (no worries of freezing)
 

ishiboo

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OK found my manual, and the Hot Tub has a 4000W heater and runs off the 20A breaker in the sub panel. This includes the small circulation pump for the heating system.
Considering the 30A supply from the generator is 7500W i don't see why this would not be sufficient to keep the hot tub warm.

In the house I will have minimal running; Furnace (fuel oil), well pump 1/3HP, Fridge, Freezer, small fish tank, potentially TV & some lighting.

NO A/C, main loads will be during winter.
If used during the summer, it will not run the Hot Tub (no worries of freezing)

4000W is fine. Utilizing the 50A plug, that gives you 12000W, so 8000W left over for running the house. My house runs just fine on a 7KW unit with no electric resistance heating.

With multiple ACs you could run into issues with them starting, but you could also offload one or two items individually to the additional 30A plug, since the 50A plug does not allow you to utilize the generator's full capacity.
 

HunterWare

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You can run the house off the 50 and the spa off the 30. If I read you right, the spa is currently running off a 20 amp circuit anyhow.

I run two panels off the two 240 outputs on mine every time we run out of power. It works fine, just don't overload the generator and you will be just fine. Count up the amps and make sure your under limit, and then run it slowly up to a full test load and make sure. Then you'll know your fine from then on...

Good luck and enjoy. I know I've been happy with mine, although I wish the gas was free. Sheesh. :(
 
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NWOhioChevyGuy

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Yeah the Generator showed up today, shipping damage to the fuel pump on the motor, broke one of the ******* off. Not hard to fix but I will have to wait for the supplier to sort out who covers it and ships me the parts, as no obvious damage before it was uncrated.

I'm pretty sure I'm good on power, but will know for sure when I get things put back together.
 

2ManyProjects

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OK I have been in the process of getting ready to install an emergency generator for going on two years now and finally bought the generator.

{I'm skipping ahead here a bit, because you kind'a "buried the lead"; we'll come back to some of the other stuff...}

Generator is a Generac GP17500E

For what was the main purpose of this purchase? I'm sincerely hoping that you have a serious need for such a large portable generator for some OTHER purpose besides providing backup power for your home; because if indeed this is your sole/primary use for this device, you made a HORRIBLE choice.

Notwithstanding all the jury-rigged plug-in kludges you'll need to take even nearly full advantage of this unit's output in your home, the BIG problems are going to be:

A. - Noise, and LOTS of it. For the sake of your neighbors, I hope you live in the middle of nowhere. You, OTOH, are stuck with it. Be sure to lay in a ready supply of high-quality earplugs for your entire family. I'm NOT kidding.

B. - Reliability. Portable generators are simply NOT designed for continuous-duty use, such as they can expect to see during an extended outage. They are intended to be used for at most a few hours at a time, on an intermittent basis; and typically require at least SOME maintenance after each use. Further, when mis-applied in this manner, they tend to be left sitting idle and ignored for Gawd-knows-how-long between uses, before suddenly being dragged out of storage and expected to come to life instantly (good luck with that). By comparison, generators which are DESIGNED for standby use have built-in control systems which automatically run them through "exercise cycles" on a periodic basis, so as to ensure that they WILL be "ready and able" when they're needed.

C. - Fueling. No matter how you slice it, keeping this thing running during any significant power outage will require a SUBSTANTIAL on-site fuel supply -- FAR more "substantial" than could ever be considered "portable" in any practical sense, which rather obviates the (already questionable) "benefit" of a portable generator.

Gasoline is effectively untenable. You simply CANNOT keep it on-site for long enough to be "ready" for the next outage, without a high probability that it will turn into un-burnable goo before the next outage rolls around. And if you wait for the power to go out to purchase the fuel, odds are you will be S.O.L. -- ask all those folks who sat in lines for hours on end just to fill a 5-gallon Gerry jug after Sandy. Even if you do manage to find a gas station with working pumps, how many of those Gerry jugs do you REALLY think you can safely transport back to the house? Two? Three? Let's be really generous and say four... And once you do schlepp home those Gerry jugs, you can turn around and do it again, because you'll probably need at least eight of them to keep the unit running for 24 hours. How long did you sit in line the first time? (I'm basing this on Generac's own fuel consumption claim of 1.6 Gal./Hr. @ 50% load, which is probably optimistic; but hey, this scenario is already so gloomy there's no need to make it still worse by "adjusting" it to accommodate that probability.)

Propane isn't much better, save for the fact that you CAN store it. A bit further down you mentioned the idea of a 200-300-lb. propane tank. Think again. It takes approximately 1.35 gallons of propane to provide the same heat energy (i.e., the same potential run time at load) as one gallon of gasoline, and it weighs approximately 4.24 lb. per gallon (+/- a bit pending temperature & pressure). That works out to your 200-300 lb. propane tank being approximately equivalent to 35-52 gallons of gasoline -- or again, roughly one day's-worth. Can you RELIABLY get propane deliveries at 24-hour intervals, on short notice, during a crisis? I would have to doubt that, unless perhaps you have an "inside connection" at your local supplier. Up your tank size to at least 300-500 gallons (not pounds), and propane becomes viable, if still horridly expensive.

Really, your BEST choice for fueling a standby/backup generator is Natural Gas, if it is available at your location. Much less expensive, and no periodic re-supply worries (tho' the pipe CAN be turned off at the source in a sufficiently large-scale disaster, such as happened during and after Sandy; but that's rare). If not, a truly adequate on-site supply of propane is the nest-best thing, as long as you're willing to absorb the cost.

Either way, the fuel supply is anything but "portable". So there is simply no need for a "portable" generator (and all the down-sides inherent in such devices). hence, you would surely be FAR better off with something like:

http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/Generac-Guardian-6241-Standby-Generator/p10695.html
6241_10695_600.jpg


Something like this is simply FAR more suitable to your purpose than any portable generator could even dream of. In addition to all the issues mentioned above, you dispense with all the hassles of storage (and "un-storing" it when needed), and the jury-rigged plug-in connections, and the start-up hassles (cf. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3629069&postcount=7 for a run-down on what you can expect to deal with when the power goes out), and the noise -- OMG, the noise!


[The BBS software is nattering at me that the message is too long. So I'm breaking it here. Continued in next message...]

 

2ManyProjects

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[...Continued from previous message.]

OK, back to that "other stuff"...

Main Generator meter panel was installed when I upgraded my service entry two summers ago. It has a manual interlock on it that will be manually switched when powered off the generator. This was purchased from my POCO so I know it is what they want.

In which case, you could possibly even save a few bucks over the prices quoted in the above link, since you would not need the transfer switch included in that package. Of course, that is an AUTOMATIC transfer switch, which is much more convenient than your manual interlock-based system; so if it were me, I'd ditch the manual switch anyway.

The house will be fed off the 50 amp generator feed at this panel.

You cannot draw the full output of that genset through that outlet. You will in effect be limited to ~12kW. (Makes that 14kW Guardian model look still better, doesn't it?)

I also have a hot tub and I would like to power its heater so as not have to drain it during a winter power outage.

Will I be OK with keeping it & the house powered off the 50 amp feed or should I install a separate 30 amp feed to it for when running off the generator?

You MAY have "lucked out" in a sense here, in that some of your comments imply your hot tub has unusually low power requirements (but see below for an IMPORTANT possible exception). So IF you insist on keeping that genset (which I really hope you are at least strongly reconsidering, at this point), then the preferred approach would be to feed the hot tub separately off the 30A L14-30R outlet. If you were to run it off the 50A 14-50R outlet that is also powering the house, you effectively leave even less (a LOT less, in this context) power available for the house itself.

HOWEVER... To do this right (and near-certainly to meet code) this will also require a second full interlock/transfer-switch setup dedicated to the hot tub. And I do not know how your local PoCo or inspector will feel about having TWO such setups on the same electrical service. At the very least, I would contact both of them and explain exactly what you would like to do, and see if they have any comments/objections, before proceeding.

If a separate hook up is needed I would install it inline to the hot tub and separate it / throw breaker when running on the generator.

NOT GOOD ENOUGH!

The classic "I promise to remember to throw the breaker" mantra can (and does) KILL PEOPLE. It is NEVER acceptable. A full interlock system is the DEAD MINIMUM (no pun intended).

The Generator has a 50A outlet & breaker and also a couple 30A outlets.

But only one of those 30A outlets is capable of 240V output. And remember, every amp you draw out of either it or the 50A/240V outlet leaves TWO less amps available @ 120V.

The fuel usage will be eventually addressed by running the unit on Propane and having a 200-300lb tank setting there ready to use. Gasoline will be a back up if needed and initially the fuel of choice until LP can be installed.

You're kidding yourself. You need to solve the fuel conundrum NOW. And as noted above, gasoline just isn't going to cut it, now or later.

The 50A lead will go to the house and the 30A lead will be installed to the Hot Tub, this tub has two circuits one 20A & one 30A one is the heater and the other is the jet pumps. I won't be installing enough power to use it fully only to keep it from freezing. I can not locate my manual at the moment but if memory serves me the 20A circuit is for the heater.

Ooops! I missed this the first time though. This MIGHT render the whole idea of heating the hot tub off the genset unworkable. As someone else mentioned, the tub near-certainly NEEDS to run the pumps whenever the heater is on, in order to keep from overheating (hence damaging) the heating unit itself and the pipes/ wiring/etc. in close proximity to it. At the very least, it needs to circulate the heated water throughout the plumbing system to keep those pipes from freezing up. So...

OK found my manual, and the Hot Tub has a 4000W heater and runs off the 20A breaker in the sub panel. This includes the small circulation pump for the heating system.

If you are VERY certain that this circuit alone will be adequate to both keep the tub heated AND prevent localized overheating, etc., WITHOUT any "assistance" from the 30A pump circuit, then we're back to what I said above about running it off the L14-30R outlet.

Considering the 30A supply from the generator is 7500W i don't see why this would not be sufficient to keep the hot tub warm.

As far as that goes, you are correct; but do understand: 30A is the maximum output rating for THAT OUTLET, regardless of any other considerations. However, ALL of the outlets on the genset draw from a "common pool" of power, so to speak. So every amp you draw from the L14-30R outlet leaves (at least) one less amp available at the other outlets (most notably including that "50A" 14-50R). You CANNOT draw the maximum rated loads from all outlets simultaneously.

In the house I will have minimal running; Furnace (fuel oil), well pump 1/3HP, Fridge, Freezer, small fish tank, potentially TV & some lighting.

What about your range/oven/cooktop? Microwave? Sump pumps? Garage door opener(s)? All these things can add up. But more to the point, unless you size the generator to comfortably handle the ENTIRE house load (including those loads you don't think you'll "really need" during an outage), and install the transfer switch accordingly at the main service input, the ONLY loads which will be usable during an outage will be those you've already moved to the sub-panel fed from the transfer switch. So it behooves you to really think through those decisions carefully, assuming a "worst case" scenario in terms of the length & timing of the outage.

NO A/C, main loads will be during winter.
If used during the summer, it will not run the Hot Tub (no worries of freezing)

Given that genset, "dropping" the hot tub load during the non-Winter months won't really help you, unless you ALSO install a second sub-panel in addition to the second transfer-switch/interlock (still more co$t). As noted above, you will still be limited to about 12kW from the main 50A feed, regardless.

Yeah the Generator showed up today, shipping damage to the fuel pump on the motor, broke one of the ******* off. Not hard to fix but I will have to wait for the supplier to sort out who covers it and ships me the parts, as no obvious damage before it was uncrated.

This could actually be a "silver lining" situation... With any luck, you can use this as further ammunition to justify returning the unit for a refund. Then go buy the type of generator you really SHOULD have bought in the first place.

 
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skiingman

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Why are you trying to solve problems that don't exist?

If the power is out long enough for your hot tub to freeze, chances are good that you wont have any fuel left for your generator anyways. If things get that bad, drain the hot tub. You'll have other actual problems to worry about if that's the case.
 

jjpp

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Wow lost intrest in 2Manys too many words. Sorry ADD kicked in.
I would contact the hot tub manufacturer to check the freeze rate. At the most I could only see you having to run the heater every other day to maintain the temp above 50* which would allow for less cycling effectively lowering the load on the generator.

That is one big azz portable generator and you will most likely regret the noise and fuel cost associated with it. You could get by with less just by juggling your loads.
 
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NWOhioChevyGuy

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I understand the fuel concerns mention.... Natural Gas is not available. I do have family that is in the propane business so getting a delivery will only be an issue if they are out...and at that point it will be more an issue than just power.

Noise concerns......I am in the boonies and closest neighbor is 1/2 mile away, unit will be run in a detached garage with door facing away from house. I would rather have noise than no power!

I understand the interlock issues, all power connections will be made on the "off line" side of the main manual interloc. Both the 50A & 30A connections. The 30A hookup will have a manual disconnect on the feed so if it is not in use it will be physically disconnected from the panel even if the breaker is not thrown.

Part of living out here is doing things different than IN the burbs or near town, some of those options are just not available.

I thank you for your input but I will be trudging forward.
 

jjpp

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I am in the boonies too. My generator is 8000 running watts so almost half of yours and it is loud my neighbors have told me so, (granted the muffler is pointed in their direction). I am considering buying a smaller one to use at night to run the furnace and a few lights to save fuel and cut down on noise.
Bonus is I would be able to drag it around to property to use power tools.
 
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NWOhioChevyGuy

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Also to note the manual switch I had installed is at the meter socket. Which means there is NO secondary breaker panel installed that is fed by the generator.
Yes this is all done to code and the panel as mentioned above was bought from the POCO, and installed by a licensed electrician.

The main question I had was for the feed to the hot tub and I have that answer after finding my manual. The tub is not like all the tunpbs out there as it has 3 pumps, one small one for circulation for the heater and 2 large ones for the main jets.
 

frankzlt1

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You will be fine with the generator with the hot tub. You just can't use it when your on generator power. 1 question I want to ask is why by the portable especially one the that big, you almost paied the same price for the home stand by same size. Im a dealer for the big 3 generators and portables as well. Also if you need parts I can get what ever you need.
 

2ManyProjects

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I understand the fuel concerns mention.... Natural Gas is not available. I do have family that is in the propane business so getting a delivery will only be an issue if they are out...and at that point it will be more an issue than just power.

Fair enough. Just realize that "inside connection" will be critical with the very small tank you proposed; and should ANYTHING cause it to go away, or be "de-prioritized", you could find yourself high & dry, so to speak. Given that, I still think a larger tank should be presumed, if perhaps not quite as large as I'd originally recommended.

Noise concerns......I am in the boonies and closest neighbor is 1/2 mile away,

That helps your neighbors; but it doesn't do much for YOU.

unit will be run in a detached garage with door facing away from house.

Bad idea -- or at least a rather risky one, which requires other precautions be taken. Running a portable generator inside ANY structure, occupied or not, is a prescription for disaster. Carbon monoxide WILL accumulate in that space, very possibly to lethal levels. It MIGHT even get to the point of producing oxygen starvation for the generator itself. But more worrisome would be the fact that you could NOT safely enter that space (such as for refueling) for quite some time after the generator ceased running. And if/when an emergency occurs, how will you shut the generator off from OUTSIDE the building?

I would rather have noise than no power!

No argument with that statement; but it fails to address any of the points above. And besides, why put up with either, if you don't have to?

I understand the interlock issues,

I would certainly hope so; but some of your comments leave me with little confidence on this front.

all power connections will be made on the "off line" side of the main manual interloc. Both the 50A & 30A connections. The 30A hookup will have a manual disconnect on the feed so if it is not in use it will be physically disconnected from the panel even if the breaker is not thrown.

You're missing it.

It's not a matter of what happens when the either generator as a whole or any one of its outputs are not in use. Without a PROPER full interlock/transfer-switch system at EVERY possible connection point to the generator, the possibility remains that the generator COULD be fired up with at least some of the breakers (and/or that so-called "manual disconnect") in the wrong positions, which could in turn result in "backfeeding" your incoming power line with power from the geneset. Now suppose that a mile or so down the road, a lineman has just climbed the pole to troubleshoot/repair whatever caused the outage in the first place, and starts handling what he has every reason to THINK are de-energized lines. Ooops!

I say again: NOT GOOD ENOUGH!

Part of living out here is doing things different than IN the burbs or near town, some of those options are just not available.

Being located in the sticks, or "living independent", or even just "being different" is NOT a valid excuse to ignore basic safety principles.

I thank you for your input but I will be trudging forward.

:headshake


Also to note the manual switch I had installed is at the meter socket. Which means there is NO secondary breaker panel installed that is fed by the generator.

Which means, you are in effect feeding the entire house off that one 50A output from the generator. That can (and likely will) lead to overloading the generator. Not good.

Yes this is all done to code and the panel as mentioned above was bought from the POCO, and installed by a licensed electrician.

Perhaps so; but that does not in any way obviate what I said above. Neither the PoCo nor the installing electrician was responsible for YOUR choice of generator, let alone whatever jury-rigged secondary connections you might make to it. And whatever they supplied/installed was not contingent on that. If anything, it presumed that a truly SUITABLE generator would be chosen, and PROPERLY installed.

 

Leaflessshadetree

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I don't see any problem with what you want to do. I run a 7500kW portable when I loose power. Went through about 30 gallons total when we were out for 5-6 days (ran it about 6-8 hrs/day).
I thought about propane but wanted to keep the unit portable. Fresh gas isn't a problem, I usually have quite a bit around. Up to 10 gallons in 5 gallon cans for lawn equipment, 30 gallons in my truck, 10 in each car and plus what's in the boat, motorcycles, lawn equipment. Not sure how many gas cans I can fit in my truck but I could easily haul 60-100 gallons/trip.
Noise is about the same as a lawn mower. I set up the generator behind my garage. My neighbors don't even notice it running from inside the house. I can hear it just enough to tell how it's running.
 
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NWOhioChevyGuy

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OK I have looked at it further, and have the following plan for the 30A feed.

The 30 amp feed will be fed through the garage load center (which the hot tub is fed off of) and an interlock will be installed on the panel to meet code.
 
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