Generator electrical question

[The Cobbler]

I admit, I know enough about electrical work to be dangerous LOL .
I have recently acquired a 3300 watt peak generator that I would like to use for power interruptions at my house ( very rare)

so it has an l14-30 receptacle on the unit , plus a duplex 20 amp rated receptacle.

I have the L14-30 male plug & about 50' of 10/4 SOOW cord.
I have a 6 pole manual transfer switch made by Connecticut electric, it uses a L14-20 . I plan on getting that installed on my main panel to run basic needs, lights, fridge, freezer, furnace etc.

am I ok running the generator to the transfer as is or does it need to be fused at 20 amp .
thanks in advance

 

[mm08822]

Need some more details first.
The L14-30 recept on the generator seems too large for the generator rating. Is this original? 3300w/240v = 13.75A. That is peak amperage, however. What is the continuous wattage rating?

The generator should have ocp for the L14-30. Is there a 2 pole cb present? If yes, what size? Same required for the 20 A duplex. What is it?

 

[Falcon67]

Better make sure that genny outlet will provide 240V because most in that range do not, 120V @ 30A max.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Need some more details first.
The L14-30 recept on the generator seems too large for the generator rating. Is this original? 3300w/240v = 13.75A. That is peak amperage, however. What is the continuous wattage rating?

An L14-20 would be more appropriate for that size generator.

Considering that the OP already has the generator (w/L14-30) and the cord, I would just swap the connector for the transfer switch. The transfer switch has 6 circuit, typically each with 15A breakers. It can handle the extra current, which, of course the generator can NOT put out !

 

[theoldwizard1]

Better make sure that genny outlet will provide 240V because most in that range do not, 120V @ 30A max.

Good point ! But Why would they put a L14-** receptacle on it instead of an L5-** ? Or even a TT-30 ? I know, I know. Logic does not always apply !

 

[mm08822]

An L14-20 would be more appropriate for that size generator.

Considering that the OP already has the generator (w/L14-30) and the cord, I would just swap the connector for the transfer switch. The transfer switch has 6 circuit, typically each with 15A breakers. It can handle the extra current, which, of course the generator can NOT put out !

That's exactly where I was heading - pending OP's reply. I wanted to make sure the generator would trip on ocp o/l instead of bogging down and producing low voltage / low Hz power into the xfer sw.

 

[The Cobbler]

The generator is new, store return . it does have a 120/240 switch ( choose either or)
no markings on the breakers. ( 1 for 240, 1 for 120)
3,000 run watts
twist lock receptacle seems to be original .

 

[mm08822]

Make/model/part number?

 

[The Cobbler]

link to generator https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/3-300w-gasoline-generator/A-p8422560e

 

[mm08822]

link to generator https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/3-300w-gasoline-generator/A-p8422560e

I zoomed in on the generator pic and it is a L14-30r. The w/d specs a L14-20r. (I was able to get the wiring diagram from a link provided in the Q&A section. Links in the manual/parts list section are ng.)

The w/d shows two 20a single pole cb's feeding the split 20A recept in addition to a 2 pole cb w/o an ocp value spec'd. The w/d appears to be incorrect as the gen only has one cb installed. I suspect the 2 pole cb is 20A and protects both receptacles simultaneously. Only 1 recept can be in operation at a time based upon selector switch position.

Based upon the kw rating of this gen, even the L14-20r is oversized. It can't even support a 15a load continuously.

My confidence in this generator is extremely low. Poorly designed/built from an electrical standpoint. In addition, after reading a few of the reviews, I would return this and get a better generator.

View attachment 3k_gen.pdf

You indicated this is a store return. I'm wondering if "someone" changed out the L14-20 for a L14-30??

 

[The Cobbler]

Thanks for the information.
I likely wont return it, longish story but it was a deal because the store screwed up another purchase of mine. they claimed it was a customer return yet there's no gas ( nor has there been gas) in it.
I'll just chalk it up to experience. perhaps try to sell it and purchase a better brand.
I wouldn't have set out to buy this particular generator.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Need some more details first.
The L14-30 recept on the generator seems too large for the generator rating. Is this original? 3300w/240v = 13.75A. That is peak amperage, however. What is the continuous wattage rating?

The generator should have ocp for the L14-30. Is there a 2 pole cb present? If yes, what size? Same required for the 20 A duplex. What is it?

my first thought.

Better make sure that genny outlet will provide 240V because most in that range do not, 120V @ 30A max.

Agreed. Would not make sense to have a 30a 240v outlet on a generator that will barely do 13a @ 240v.

I zoomed in on the generator pic and it is a L14-30r. The w/d specs a L14-20r. (I was able to get the wiring diagram from a link provided in the Q&A section. Links in the manual/parts list section are ng.)

The w/d shows two 20a single pole cb's feeding the split 20A recept in addition to a 2 pole cb w/o an ocp value spec'd. The w/d appears to be incorrect as the gen only has one cb installed. I suspect the 2 pole cb is 20A and protects both receptacles simultaneously. Only 1 recept can be in operation at a time based upon selector switch position.

Based upon the kw rating of this gen, even the L14-20r is oversized. It can't even support a 15a load continuously.

My confidence in this generator is extremely low. Poorly designed/built from an electrical standpoint. In addition, after reading a few of the reviews, I would return this and get a better generator.

View attachment 3k_gen.pdf

You indicated this is a store return. I'm wondering if "someone" changed out the L14-20 for a L14-30??

agreed.

Sounds like a POS.

I would sell and get something better.

 

[maxpat82]

can't even run a toaster/furnace while the fridge is running.
it can be a good generator..but not to have it plugged in the transfert switch.....you will overload it very fast!

 

[Falcon67]

The links off that page to the manual and circuit diagram are dead, glad someone was able to follow them. I did find a Generac with a real 240V 30A feed. Agree, that's a pretty poor design for a 3kW generator. I'd stick to running cords for that thing, no transfer switch.

A 3500/4000 Champion would be a better unit and cost less. But would only be good for 30A 120, using the 30A RV plug on the panel. From my experience, with few exceptions, you get into "real" 240V output at the 5.5kW level and up.