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Generator - Seeking Install Advice

chipdog4

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Jul 14, 2016
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Southern Indiana
I bought a generator a while back and have been making a trailer for it. It's almost done and now I need help guidance on some items to hook it up to the house.

First, the generator is Onan 12,500 watts diesel.
https://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/Cummins-Onan-RV-QD-12500/p6610.html

It's made to be hardwired into an RV, so it doesn't have any outlets.
Can I wire it to a Power Outlet Panel mounted on the generator trailer so I can have other options when it's not being used on the house? Obviously I can't use the other 2 outlets when it's plugged into the house, or would having them available be against some code?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-Power-Outlet-Panel-Unmetered-CHU1N7N4NS/100168377

The secondary option would be a RV 50 amp single outlet.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-50-Amp-Temporary-RV-Power-Outlet-U054P/100193650


Then, for my second question. The house panel is nearly out of open spaces for breakers, so I don't want an interlock unless I get a new panel with more open space. Rather not do tandem breakers, either.
Would this manual transfer switch be easier to (have a professional) install than a new panel and interlock?
https://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/Reliance-Controls-TWB2005DR/p1125.html

Looking at this power inlet box (along with a 25 foot 6 gauge 4 wire cord)
https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-50-Amp-Twist-Lock-Power-Inlet-T050N/203393774
 
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mm08822

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NJ
Just quickly scanned your post, but I would put my money into a new main panel with the proper interlock. This will give you more value later on to add ckts.
If you choose the same panel mfr and your present cb's are in good shape, you could re-use them and save a few bucks.
Look into a 50a power inlet box to mount near the gen location.
 

mshell56118

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Elkhart, IN
also verify that generator puts out 240vac, alot of those rv gens (i work for cummins/onan) had 2 separate 120vac circuits (windings) and would not produce 240 across them
 

E.Marquez

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Kempner Texas
also verify that generator puts out 240vac, alot of those rv gens (i work for cummins/onan) had 2 separate 120vac circuits (windings) and would not produce 240 across them

The Gen set he linked to is capable of 120/240
attachment.php
 

E.Marquez

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Kempner Texas
Do you have a disconnect/ breaker at the pole leading off the main power line?
Do you live in an area that has codes to be concerned about?

One big issue is not energizing the line with your generator upstream of your house..that gets line men hurt or dead.

as I have a disconnect / main breaker switch at the base of the power pole, that then feeds my main panel. If I throw the switch (and then pull the breaker for good measure) I can safely energize my house electrical panel and there will be no danger to linemen working on what they think is a dead line. I installed a 100 amp sub panel/breaker that has a 100 amp receptacle. and I have a transfer cord from my portable 10k watt gen set to that sub panel. Beakers are numbed and color coded ..... 9 groups of beakers in 9 different colors .. If I have a power outage, the pole box is switched off, and the breaker pulled tripped.
at my main panel all breakers are tripped off.... the transfer box is hooked up to my portable gen set, and energized.
then at the main panel any of the 9 different groups of breakers can be tripped in the order they are numbered.
This accounts for start up wattage needed for some items and overall amp draw from the colored group.
Sounds more difficult then it is..

It takes less than 5 min from decision to do it, to power power back in the house for critical items, like the beer fermentation chamber, modem, a few lights and a few outlets..... or if pressed, I might select another group of breakers and get the stove and refrigerator going....lol
 
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chipdog4

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Southern Indiana
also verify that generator puts out 240vac, alot of those rv gens (i work for cummins/onan) had 2 separate 120vac circuits (windings) and would not produce 240 across them

The Gen set he linked to is capable of 120/240
attachment.php

Thanks Marquez, the generator is 240 capable.
My brother has some identical generators in his test trailers at work.
And hello from a fellow employee MShell!

I was strongly considering upgrading to a larger panel, but the house was built in 1997 and I can't really see any need for expansion.

No, there isn't any disconnect or breaker at the pole.
I'm sure there are codes that need to be considered. I will have an electrician hook everything up.

I'm considering this manual transfer panel, if it would be a much simpler/quicker install than having a larger panel and interlock installed.
The panel is a Square D 200 amp and it looks like there is only one available with more space.
https://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/Reliance-Controls-TWB2005DR/p1125.html
 
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Bretny

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Onan makes great generators. If you feel you need that much power i think that set is a wise choice. Is it 3400rpm or the better 1800rpm?
Since that unit is rated for 52amps i would use a twist lock that is bigger than 52amps and size your wire accordingly. The box you linked looks great as long as you can have something plugged in and it still be weather proof. Hubble makes great high amp twist to lock plug connections.

Im also more for an interlock on your pannel. More load choices and going to be cheaper to double up a few 120v breakers.
Why are you against double breakers?

Your generator plan is one of the few that i dont read and shake my head at. These people with "standby" generators really just have a lawnmower engine...or worse the portable crowd. Happy generating.
 

mm08822

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Onan makes great generators. If you feel you need that much power i think that set is a wise choice. Is it 3400rpm or the better 1800rpm?
Since that unit is rated for 52amps i would use a twist lock that is bigger than 52amps and size your wire accordingly. The box you linked looks great as long as you can have something plugged in and it still be weather proof. Hubble makes great high amp twist to lock plug connections.

Im also more for an interlock on your pannel. More load choices and going to be cheaper to double up a few 120v breakers.
Why are you against double breakers?

Your generator plan is one of the few that i dont read and shake my head at. These people with "standby" generators really just have a lawnmower engine...or worse the portable crowd. Happy generating.

It's a very nice unit.....but at $11K just to enter the game - not the finished price. That $ trims the market pretty quickly.
 

Radix2

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the thumb!, MI
Simplest, cheapest and without any downside is to go with the interlock and some doubles.

As long as your panel has approved doubles, they meet the same specs as the std size units.
 
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Bretny

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It's a very nice unit.....but at $11K just to enter the game - not the finished price. That $ trims the market pretty quickly.
Yes the price is steep for that unit but its built to last and not something you will ever have to rebuy in your lifetime. I checked the specs and its a 1800rpm unit. There very quiet, fuel efficient and long lasting. If you were to see one u would see why they are superior.

They do make a comercial version for a few hundred bucks more. Not sure on the real difference.
 
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chipdog4

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Yeah Bret, it is 1800 RPM. It has a Kubota 3 cylinder, so technically, it could be a lawn mower engine.
I overlooked that 52 amp rating, I had it figured at 50 amps all along. ****.

The big reason for choosing the transfer switch or a new panel with interlock is that the top right breaker in the box is a 50 amp 240 that is ran to a sub-panel out in the shop 100 feet away. There is conduit ran down the side of the box right to that breaker, so I doubt there enough slack to pull more wire out and move it down.

Are cost and installation the biggest drawbacks to the transfer panel?
 

mackwrench

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Florida
I have one of those gen-sets...but it's still in my motorcoach. Lol... things run smooth like a watch and just sips fuel...

Keep in mind where you set it, the RV unit is designed to be serviced from the bottom, the engine oil filter, fuel filter and electric fuel transfer pump is all accessed through a small panel on bottom.

I service mine every 100 hours.

I have a buddy that's done just what you're doing. However he had room for a 50 amp breaker and used a interlock. It's a 7500 unit and will run everything in house except a/c system...located behind house he built a metal stand about 3' high, uses a 100 gallon aluminum fuel tank he bought at local big truck collision repair shop (dented).....I can get some pics next time I'm by there if interested.

Very easy to put a remote start on this unit, right next to interlock...

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
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reader2580

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I don’t know why some are so against the “lawnmower” engine standby generators. If you only have a very rare power outage they work great. I had one at my last house and after 12 years it had around 150 hours on it. There was one three day outage and I changed the oil part way through. A lawnmower engine should easily last 500 to 1000 hours. I have one at my current house and I only have about $3,500 into it.

I love diesel generators, but they are incredibly expensive for a home standby generator. They also wouldn’t start easily in the cold. You can use a block heater, but then you are using 6 KWh a day to power it. You also have to haul in fuel or have it delivered. A 100 gallon tank would probably last about a week running 24/7. I figure if I lost both natural gas and electricity that the disaster is probably something where I don’t want to be in the house.
 

Bretny

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Yeah Bret, it is 1800 RPM. It has a Kubota 3 cylinder, so technically, it could be a lawn mower engine.
I overlooked that 52 amp rating, I had it figured at 50 amps all along. ****.

The big reason for choosing the transfer switch or a new panel with interlock is that the top right breaker in the box is a 50 amp 240 that is ran to a sub-panel out in the shop 100 feet away. There is conduit ran down the side of the box right to that breaker, so I doubt there enough slack to pull more wire out and move it down.

Are cost and installation the biggest drawbacks to the transfer panel?
You could install a junction box becide the pannel and run the 50a into that then the main pannel. Or cut the conduit and turn into the bottom of the pannel.

Transfer pannel or transfer switch? There both a little different but as far ans i can see they still limit you more than the cheaper interlock.
 
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chipdog4

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I'll keep that in mind Mack.
I wouldn't mind seeing pictures of his setup. They could provide future users with some ideas.

Bret, the one I am considering is a transfer switch. I was reading the reviews on it and one mentioned that the original panel needs to be brought up to code as sub-panel after the switch is installed. If a lot of changes have to made to the panel after installing the switch, it almost makes more sense to just spend the money and time upgrading the panel and using the interlock.
I think I'll be getting in touch with the electrician and let him choose what he's more comfortable with.
https://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/Reliance-Controls-TWB2005DR/p1125.html
Thanks for the help so far, guys.
 
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chipdog4

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Can't believe it's been a year.
The electrician who wired the house in 97 finally got back in touch and came out and checked over everything and I left the decision up to him, whatever he's more comfortable with. He ordered a 200 amp transfer switch and will install it when the weather cooperates.
I don't know if he does a lot of generator hookups, but he seemed impressed.


Some pictures of the generator. Still need to get some 6 gauge to properly run from the generator to the outlet box.
Also, before someone asks, I don't plan on towing this down the road. I'll put it on the utility trailer and move it if I have to.
https://www.supermotors.net/registry/8073/87944

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