After the last few days of absolutely brutal heat I am thinking of cooling my shop. It's a 54' x 112' x 16' sidewall post frame building. All walls are insulated with open cell spray foam. About 24'' of blown in cellulose above the ceiling. I am looking for ideas on how to go about best cooling it with geothermal... My idea is to mount whatever unit along one of the long walls with duct work mounted about 10-12 feet above the floor with some sort of flow directors to send the cool air across the shop area.... Any other ideas out there? What units have you had good luck with? Thanks in advance....
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Geothermal cooling - 54' x 112'
- Thread starter P Dubya
- Start date
kd3pc
Well-known member
geothermal will be pricey to install the "in ground" loops, as they require depth and will need deep wells to move heat. These will require considerable yard space and equipment time. You will need some blend doors in the system to cycle stale air in and out of your shop. You will likely need some aggressive filters, if this is to be a working garage or you do woodwork, painting and the like. The pumps/cooling coils/etc are pricey as well.
Your best bet is to sit down with an HVAC engineer and see what loads you will have, where you want air, what level of moisture you can deal with, and the like. He can likely give you ball park prices in your area, and is not in the selling business. The installed price will likely be 2 - 3 times conventional cooling system pricing
Once installed, you can recover some of the install costs, as your bills will be substantially lower than the normal HVAC systems. I would get a conventional HVAC system estimate, as well, just for comparisons sake.
Your best bet is to sit down with an HVAC engineer and see what loads you will have, where you want air, what level of moisture you can deal with, and the like. He can likely give you ball park prices in your area, and is not in the selling business. The installed price will likely be 2 - 3 times conventional cooling system pricing
Once installed, you can recover some of the install costs, as your bills will be substantially lower than the normal HVAC systems. I would get a conventional HVAC system estimate, as well, just for comparisons sake.
kd3pc...Thanks for the reply. I should have put a little more info out to begin with as the cost of the ground source loops and associated installation will be virtually nothing. Same thing with yard space/equipment time. I am an excavation contractor / directional driller by trade so I already own all the equipment. I recently did all the 'outdoor' part of the geothermal on my new house and am really enjoying the benefit of geo.... Filtration is definitely a big issue as we do occasionally do some equipment painting but that is always done in the winter when things are slower, it would be nice to use this system to clean the air though...
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
When you say "geothermal", I assume you mean "ground water sourced heat pump".
If you are planning on using it for heat, I would drill wells. Easy to add on if they are undersized. Ground loops can freeze (or at least provide not warm enough water) for heat.
With a building that size you are likely going to need 4 (or more) air handlers if you space is completely open.
If you are planning on using it for heat, I would drill wells. Easy to add on if they are undersized. Ground loops can freeze (or at least provide not warm enough water) for heat.
With a building that size you are likely going to need 4 (or more) air handlers if you space is completely open.
Wizard.... Yes, closed loop ground source. I have radiant tube heat which is more than sufficient so likely no need for heat unless it could be run cheaper than natural gas. In this area the loops are filled with a glycol solution to keep them from freezing and beyond that they are installed well below the frost line, generally between 12 and 15 feet of depth where the temperatures are constant. Frost line here is around 5-6 feet. Air handlers? Are those separate units?
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
At certain ambient temperatures a heat pump will cost less to operate than even natural gas heat. Many variables so the break even point is hard to figure out. Probably should switch to gas below about 50F.Wizard.... Yes, closed loop ground source. I have radiant tube heat which is more than sufficient so likely no need for heat unless it could be run cheaper than natural gas.
Anytime I have ever heard of a person not being happy with a ground water source heat pump system it was because the incoming water was (IMHO) TOO COLD !! Even in the middle of the coldest winter, the incoming water should be ABOVE 50F !!In this area the loops are filled with a glycol solution to keep them from freezing and beyond that they are installed well below the frost line, generally between 12 and 15 feet of depth where the temperatures are constant. Frost line here is around 5-6 feet.
This is not an issue for you as you already have a heating solution.
My error ! I was thinking mini-split system at that moment.Air handlers? Are those separate units?
Actually 2 mini-split systems (outside compressors), driving 2 or 3 air handlers each may be more cost effective to install than a large geothermal system with ducting.
Trying to cool that much space is going to cost a lot ! Anyway you can cut that down ?
4 FN 27
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Read this: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5865814#post5865814
I am more than happy with my Geo Systems. Just have to have the right system designed.
I'll get some specs up tomorrow.
I am more than happy with my Geo Systems. Just have to have the right system designed.
I'll get some specs up tomorrow.
Last edited:
fordguy64
Member
Well since you already have radiant floor heat you could put in a water to water geothermal along with a hydronic air handler. That way you could use the geothermal to heat the water for the floor or if you need a quick boost in temp you can use the air handler. And in the summer time you can use the air handler as an ac with cold water.