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Germaphobe wants to de-germ 2nd hand tools - help?

thetreshon

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Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Messages
436
Location
Southwestern Ontario, Canada
Yup. I'm a germaphobe when it comes to some things, and tools from some funky previous owners NEED to be cleaned before I'll use them.

The majority of the 2nd hand stuff I get are fine with just a good wipe down with a mild cleaner on rag etc., sometimes I even wash them in the sink (like the dishes), rinse them, dry them with a towel, and even put them on a rack in my dryer to avoid any possible rusting.

But when I get stuff that may have a little rust or flaking chrome etc., I'm worried about rusting or screwing up the tools even more.

I've thought of just letting these 'dirty' tools sit in my dad's Varsol take for a while, but not sure if that will:

a) clean them of previous owners germs

or

b) destroy the finish on any of the tools


Any advice?
 
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Yojinbo

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Feb 14, 2010
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628
Location
Oklahoma
Ultrasonic cleaner.

If its good enough for hospitals its good enough for my tools.
 

tooth

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Apr 2, 2011
Messages
99
Location
Iowa
vinegar will kill germs and remove rust. Stinks but works, and its super cheap.
 

Joe B.

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Jan 2, 2007
Messages
2,752
Vinegar is about as mild of the rust remover you can find.

You should try soaking them in Purell. I have no idea what this would do to the tools but once you do it we will all know.

Seriously, I would just wipe them down with bleach and call it a day.
 

billymade

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Apr 2, 2008
Messages
7,461
Location
New Mexico
I use a many pronged attack against the dirty, used tools I acquire: it depends on the condition, durability, finish, what the item is made of and rustiness of the tools.... or whatever I happen to have closest to me @ the moment! LOL!

Starting out Dirty:

solvent, (the classic cleaner for chrome based metal tools that are encrusted with the day to day oil soaked mixture of lubricant and dirt, grunge that every motor and mechanical component, out there is caked in!) This is typically, what most mechanics tools are filled with in every nook and cranny; if the tools were used by a mechanic! soak, get a solvent brush and get all the **** off it and finish off with good degreaser!

Wire wheel on a bench grinder; Wipes things out quickly and can remove surface rust in a snap! Much debate here but it depends on the "preciousness" of the tool and how worried you are about preserving whatever surface coating may or may not be left on the tool! (e.g. black oxide or chrome finish)

Evaporust (the gentle non destructive surface solution)! Doesn't remove metal, chrome or anything metal but does remove the rust! One of the most amazing products I have ever used; much debate on here, about how well it works on different types of rusted items and how long it lasts. Try it yourself and see how it works for you; locally sold in my area @ Autozone and Harbor Freight. (it will remove black oxide finishes from metal; e.g. impact sockets)

http://www.evapo-rust.com/

Simple Green or any brand degreaser (can discolor plastic, ok with chrome/metal),

http://www.simplegreen.com/

WD40 (great for getting off gooey sticky things, generally doesn't hurt plastic, painted surfaces but be careful it can remove printed letters sometimes e.g. wera screwdrivers for some reason) The main thing is; it makes everything slippery! So, whatever is stuck on the surface will typically come off when worked in to the surface of the tool! :)

http://www.wd40.com/

Fast Orange hand cleaner with pumice and a stiff bristle brush (great for rubberized handles, plastic things that have a "textured" finish that you just can't get the grease, dirt, sticky gunk off of... be careful the pumice can hurt finishes as it acts as a abrasive! (But if your tools are heavily used and greased over... it ain't gonna matter!)

http://www.permatex.com/brand_fast_orange.htm

Brake or Carb cleaner: A truly classic "cleaning blast" of a thing; that mechanics use all the time to clean surfaces fast... can hurt plastics, made primarily to clean dirty, oil, dirt encrusted metal surfaces! Cleans other non metal surfaces but use with caution but you will be amazed at what it can do! :) (e.g. plastics, rubber etc.)

Anti bacterial product of choice and kill the germs! So many weapons to choose from; really up to you and what you think WON"T hurt the finish of the tool. In my mind getting everything as clean as possible FIRST is the key and then killing off whatever germs are left over would be the order of battle; anti bacterial soap, clorox.... endless products to choose from! :)

Finish:

compressed air: great for removing leftover particles and "getting the water out" of nooks and crannies... in a attempt to stop rust.

the sun: a hot summer day will dry pretty much anything in a snap!

clean shop towels, fluffy cleaning towels or rags: wipe down and finish off with whatever protectant you desire (e.g. WD 40, lite oil, etc.)

rubber/plastic conditioner: you may or may not want to put something on the plastic that will attract dust or get gooey but some sort of protectant is probably a good idea... everyone seems to have their favorite or most hated elixir of youth! (e.g. Armor All)

metal/anti rust preventative: so many products out there (others can probably tell you their favorites... I live in the desert so, don't really have a need!); some have gone so far as to put silica gel packs in their drawers, especially in areas with heavy humidity!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silica_gel

Kinda started typing and couldn't stop! :) Sorry, I may have not even answered you initial question! LOL !
 
Last edited:
OP
T

thetreshon

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Messages
436
Location
Southwestern Ontario, Canada
I used a many pronged attack against the dirty, used tools I acquire: it depends on the durability, finish and rustiness of the tools.... or whatever I happen to have closes to me @ the moment! LOL!

Starting out Dirty:

solvent, (the classic cleaner for chrome based tools that are encrusted with the day to day oil soaked grunge that every motor out there is caked in! This is typically, what most mechanics tools are filled with in every nook and cranny; if the tools were used by a mechanic! soak, get a solvent brush and get all the **** off it and finish off with good degreaser!)

Wire wheel on a bench grinder; Wipes things out quickly and can remove surface rust in a snap! Much debate here but it depends on the "preciousness" of the tool and how worried you are about preserving whatever surface coating may or may not be left on the tool!

Evaporust (the gentle non destructive surface solution)! Doesn't remove metal, chrome or anything metal but does remove the rust! One of the most amazing products I have ever used; much debate on here, about how well it works on different types of rusted items and how long it lasts. Try it yourself and see how it works for you; locally sold in my area @ Autozone and Harbor Freight.

http://www.evapo-rust.com/

Simple Green or any brand degreaser (can discolor plastic, ok with chrome/metal),

WD40 (great for getting off gooey sticky things, generally doesn't hurt plastic, painted surfaces but be careful it can remove printed letters sometimes e.g. wera screwdrivers for some reason)

http://www.simplegreen.com/

Fast Orange hand cleaner with pumice and a stiff bristle brush (great for rubberized handles, plastic things that have a "textured" finish that you just can't get the grease, dirt, sticky gunk off of... be careful the pumice can hurt finishes as it acts as a abrasive but if your tools are heavily used and greased over... it ain't gonna matter!)

http://www.permatex.com/brand_fast_orange.htm

Anti bacterial product of choice and kill the germs! So many weapons to choose from; really up to you and what you think WON"T hurt the finish of the tool. In my mind getting everything as clean as possible FIRST is the key and then killing off whatever germs are left over would be the order of battle; anti bacterial soap, clorox.... endless products to choose from! :)

Finish:

compressed air: get for removing leftover particles and "getting the water out" of nooks and crannies... in a attempt to stop rust.

the sun: a hot summer day with dry pretty much anything in a snap!

rags: wipe down and finish off with whatever protectant you desire (e.g. WD 40, lite oil, etc.)

plastic conditioner: you may or may not want to put something on the plastic that will attract dust or get gooey but some sort of protectant is probably a good idea... everyone seems to have their favorite or most hated (e.g. Armor All)

metal/anti rust preventative: so many products out there (others can probably tell you their favorites... I live in the desert so, don't really have a need!); some have gone so far as to put silica gel packs in their drawers, especially in areas with heavy humidity!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silica_gel

Kinda started typing and couldn't stop! :) Sorry, I may have not even answered you initial question! LOL !


WOW billymade - thanks for all the tips!
 

billymade

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Joined
Apr 2, 2008
Messages
7,461
Location
New Mexico
Your welcome... I don't know what came over me... my brain must be working and my typing just started and wouldn't stop! LOL! ;)
 

Bruce Lancaster

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Apr 3, 2006
Messages
1,642
For accumulated crud, rust. etc. you need parts or all of Billymade's array of techniques, with exact choices dependant on type and amount of crud.
For just the germs...lay everything out on newspapers away from the house and humanity, blkast'emdown with a spray can of brake cleaner, and run for your life.
An hour later all will be dry and devoid of anything living.
 

BQuicksilver

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Joined
Aug 25, 2006
Messages
560
Hospital uses ultrasonic PLUS industrial cleaner. Ultrasonic doesnt kill much by itself.

Oh yeah, then an autoclave:)
 

balane

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Messages
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Location
Pacific Northwest
I just hold them in a towel, spray them down heavily with with 409 or Simple Green and go crazy with the towel until it's dry. They usually end up looking (and smelling.) terrific.
 

jayoldschool

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Joined
Apr 23, 2006
Messages
2,121
Location
Canada
Dishwasher. Hot water plus detergent will make them nicer than you will do by hand. You use a fork at a restaurant, right? ;)
 
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Frank The Plumber

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Feb 19, 2011
Messages
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Chicago.
key board cleaner. If you can live with the filth on this thing before you, you can certainly live with that.

The plumber bleaches his tools, and his work boots about once a week.

You can imagine that what you may fear is really on my tools.

Chlorox them.
 

Boiler

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Joined
Nov 20, 2009
Messages
1,967
Location
Indiana
I strictly use WD-40. It is a hell of a cleaner & seems to help in rust removal, and it leaves behind oils to prevent rust. I have a couple microfibers that stay full of WD-40 full time. I drag them through box & open ends of wrenches and wipe just about everything with them. Things that have rust get the brass or plastic brush, fine steel wool, or one of my picks.

I tend to run my picks through sockets when I get them. It usually takes me about 15 minutes to clean the major crud out of a 10pc set. Then I pop them onto my drill and spin them with the WD-40 rag crammed in the end. Rag or steel wool & rag the outside on a quick spin and their clean of junk.

I never actually kill germs on purpose though. Once all the **** is removed, I doubt many living things enjoy a life of chrome and WD-40.

If this isn't good enough, after you clean all the junk toss them into a bucket of 409, tumble them around for a minute or two, then move them all to a hot water rinse bucket and tumble them around a little, then take them out, shake them off, a quick blot with a rag to the outside of them, and then drop them into WD-40 to remove the rest of the water and to oil them. Leave them in the WD-40, submerged for an hour or twenty, and then pull them out and lay them on cardboard to "dry" for a day. Wipe em down and put them away and you should be clean & still have oils necessary to stop rusting for the near future. I try to give my tools a WD-40 bath at least twice a year, if they need it or not.
 

stolender

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Jul 29, 2010
Messages
56
Location
Upstate NY
Barbicide - the blue stuff your barber sterilizes his combs, razors etc. in. You can buy a bottle in any beauty supply shop, and it comes concentrated to be mixed with water - a little goes a long way. It will kill anything! Germs, virus, staph, fungus, HIV, HBV, HBC etc. It does not promote rust either.
I used to collect straight razors and double-edge razors, and this is the stuff I used before using any razor I purchased.
 

billymade

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Apr 2, 2008
Messages
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Location
New Mexico
Boiler, from your comments of "dunk" etc. in WD40; I am assuming that you buy it in bulk and not in aerosol can form.... expound on that. I have from time to time seen it in "buckets" but never bought it in such large quantities! Tell us all about it! :)
 

1320stang

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Dec 28, 2006
Messages
4,589
Location
Edmond, OK
Send all your tools to me, I'm not funky, I'll use them for a while, get all the previous funk off them, then send them back to you. Funk free. I charge $1 a pound, you pay shipping both ways.
 

KenS

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Joined
Oct 21, 2007
Messages
726
Get a temporary job on a garbage truck...and get cured.

Sshheesshh, I'm surprised with all these serious answers no one has suggested the real answers:

1.] Buy an autoclave.

2.] Wipe with an old oily rag and get to work.

Moderators: Definitely qualifies as a "sticky," if you get my drift.

Wow.
 

woody 73

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Messages
11,547
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The Great State Up North
I think the best way to go is to use WD-40 but just for the record if you are using harsh chemicals to clean your tools,then any chemical that you use will be absorbed into your skin; with that being said I would think the germs are the least of your worries!
 

honcho

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Near Sodom & Gommorah (aka Wash. DC)
I wonder if Germaphobe ever uses someone else's computer or allows anyone other than himself use his computer? Computer keyboards are some germ breeding contraptions!

I don't know how it affects adults, but several scientific studies have shown that kids raised around animals, dirt (and therefore germs) tend to be healthier and more resistant to infections and disease than children with "antiseptic" homes.

The very young, the very old and people with compromised immune systems do need to be careful but it can become an obsession for an otherwise healthy adult to avoid germs at all costs. Therapy is expensive.

Cook all wrenches to at least an internal temperature of 140deg and serve lightly seasoned with wd-40 or your favorite lubricant (I don't recommend Astroglide!).
 

98TJ

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May 31, 2011
Messages
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Honolulu, HI
Wipe down with WD-40 and follow up with wax and tar remover to get the residue off.

Clorox wipes might be good if that's your thing but I'm far from a germophobe. I'm the guy you'll see eating a sandwich with grimy hands. :lol:
 

j.c.whitney

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Messages
558
Location
Omaha, Ne
Mix a batch of 10% bleach, either dunk and let air dry or spray down with a trigger sprayer. Follow with SC Johnson Virex or any dual chain quaternary ammonium compound EPA registered germicide (available at any Sanitary Supply company) 10 minutes dwell time. The Bleach will kill any clostridium difficile and a lot of other nasties, the Virex will handle the rest. 30 years Health Care experience.
 

Frank The Plumber

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Messages
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Lysol them. I guess my E Coli one was too much for you guys.
There's nothing wrong with bleaching or sterilizing your tools.

There's a new E Coli bacterium in Europe, 16 dead in Germany, 1000+ sick 30% with possible long term kidney damage.

It's a serious thing.

May be wise to develop a little fear, never hurts to be clean.

The people die from bacterium eating their intestines and kidneys.

I'm bleaching now.
 

Nick M

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Messages
83
Rubbing alcohol. Cleans grease and dirt and kills germs. Wipe down, let dry, then oil.
 

Frank The Plumber

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parts cleaner. brake cleaner. acetone. liquid nitrogen, muriatic acid, draino. put them in the oven at 220. paint gun cleaner. give them to a cat.pack them in rock salt, put them in cheer powdered laundry detergent and pour in a little water. lend them to an astronaut. lend them to a moon shine maker so he can stir his mash. send them to a nuke plant. put them under the last space shuttle as it launches. have them excorcised. let el diablo lick them. put thai dragon pepper sauce on them. tie a 4 mile long string on them and drop them into the ocean off the east coast of Japan. put them on the lava in Hawaii. use them as they are and develop an immune system.
 

flyingvette

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Messages
92
If you're only worried about germs then you only need to do one of two things:

Place in boiling water or heat equivalent to boiling water.

Leave it out in the sun for 8 hours each side. (I think it's actually 6, but 8 to be sure). The UV-A will kill all the microscopic critters for you.
 
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