Getting 35v at fridge, dedicated circuit

[infinkc]

Just posting here to see if there is something I am missing.

First of all, this fridge is a built in unit, so very hard to move it to get to the outlet plug.

Woke up this morning and fridge was dead.

Checked the breaker, didn’t trip. Checked the voltage out of the breaker ~120v.

Neutral is secure in the panel. Also moved the hot to a different breaker to rule out the breaker.

Was able to take the front service panel off the fridge and measure the voltage coming in. ~35v.

There is an outlet and plug behind the fridge, so I’m guessing this is bad? I have to have someone remove the fridge as it’s built in to get to the connection.

So just seeing if there is something that I maybe missing to check .

I currently have the wires bypassed at the fridge service panel so I can power the fridge with a different outlet to keep it on.

 

[Sinatra]

Is your 35 volts between hot and neutral? If so, try checking voltage between hot and a known good ground. If you have 120 vac, then you lost the neutral. Check the outlet connections.

 

[ycgoat]

Make sure its a dedicated circuit, if not the problem could be at another outlet

 

[sparky 1971]

If you're 100% certain you know it's a dedicated circuit and you also are positive you know which breaker it is, it almost has to be at the receptacle. The first thing I would do is check voltage to neutral on every single single pole breaker in the panel to verify they are all good and the fridge breaker isn't marked wrong, also check every neutral connection in the panel. If those are ok, turn off the breaker that is supposed to be for the refrigerator and see if anything else goes out with it. If something does happen to shut off with the breaker, your problem probably isn't the fridge outlet, it will be at one of the outlets that went out when you shut off the breaker. If everything else checks out ok, pull the fridge. You'll probably find a stabbed connection or a broken receptacle.

 

[infinkc]

If you're 100% certain you know it's a dedicated circuit and you also are positive you know which breaker it is, it almost has to be at the receptacle. The first thing I would do is check voltage to neutral on every single single pole breaker in the panel to verify they are all good and the fridge breaker isn't marked wrong, also check every neutral connection in the panel. If those are ok, turn off the breaker that is supposed to be for the refrigerator and see if anything else goes out with it. If something does happen to shut off with the breaker, your problem probably isn't the fridge outlet, it will be at one of the outlets that went out when you shut off the breaker. If everything else checks out ok, pull the fridge. You'll probably find a stabbed connection or a broken receptacle.

Yea I am sure it’s dedicated, when I switch the breaker it goes to 0v

Is your 35 volts between hot and neutral? If so, try checking voltage between hot and a known good ground. If you have 120 vac, then you lost the neutral. Check the outlet connections.

Will have to see what it is, thanks

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Yea I am sure it’s dedicated, when I switch the breaker it goes to 0v


Will have to see what it is, thanks

that doesnt mean its a dedicated circuit. there could be other receptacles on that same breaker and branch circuit before the fridge receptacle

 

[infinkc]

that doesnt mean its a dedicated circuit. there could be other receptacles on that same breaker and branch circuit before the fridge receptacle

Sorry guess I should have added, that since we had the home custom built, the fridge required it’s own dedicated circuit per subzeros requirements. So I am certain it’s dedicated. The freezer next to it is also on a dedicated breaker.

 

[sparky 1971]

Sorry guess I should have added, that since we had the home custom built, the fridge required it’s own dedicated circuit per subzeros requirements. So I am certain it’s dedicated. The freezer next to it is also on a dedicated breaker.

Unfortunately, the next step is pull the refrigerator. Not sure what you're going to find, but I suspect a burned up or backstabbed receptacle. Have a commercial grade receptacle on hand to install. Is it a 15 or 20 qmp circuit? A dedicated fridge circuit could be 15 and 15 could mean backstabbing.

 

[theoldwizard1]

With zero load, it could be "ghost voltage".

 

[justsam]

Is there a top access panel on that model of Sub Zero? If so power should be accessible there to confirm that is low before getting to the Sub Zero.

 

[infinkc]

Unfortunately, the next step is pull the refrigerator. Not sure what you're going to find, but I suspect a burned up or backstabbed receptacle. Have a commercial grade receptacle on hand to install. Is it a 15 or 20 qmp circuit? A dedicated fridge circuit could be 15 and 15 could mean backstabbing.

15a, so yea it’s probably backstabbed.

Is there a top access panel on that model of Sub Zero? If so power should be accessible there to confirm that is low before getting to the Sub Zero.

This model the power is at the bottom, I was able to disconnect the power to the circuit board coming in, that is where I am measuring the voltage. I have it rigged up now with a temporary connector and extension cord to feed power to the fridge till I’m able to pull it out and inspect the receptacle behind.

 

[nadogail]

You do have a problem, without putting the refrigerator and having a look at the outlet I would not be able to give you further advice.

 

[allinon72]

Phantom voltage (35v), meaning you have no hot, or you have a loose neutral.

 

[MongoTA]

Sorry guess I should have added, that since we had the home custom built, the fridge required it’s own dedicated circuit per subzeros requirements. So I am certain it’s dedicated. The freezer next to it is also on a dedicated breaker.

I have a couple of sub zero's, a 601R fridge and a 601F freezer. I had to pull the fridge a couple years ago. I unloaded it, used the wheel adjusters down low, put a scrap piece of 1/4" ply on the floor in front of it and rolled it out. It wasn't easy, but it wasn't difficult.
Good luck with it.

 

[turbowoodworker]

Yah, I thought it would be really difficult to move until the service guy pulled my full size out by himself. Apparently not as tough as you might think.

 

[ToddG]

I used to deliver and install those by myself all the time. Even the big 48" 590 series. It can be done, but be careful. The weight is all on the top.

 

[infinkc]

Is your 35 volts between hot and neutral? If so, try checking voltage between hot and a known good ground. If you have 120 vac, then you lost the neutral. Check the outlet connections.

Checked and there is 120v to ground, the the neutral is lost somewhere.

Talked to our contractor today and it’s looking like the easiest way to get to this outlet is from the wall behind instead of removing the fridge.

If we go through the wall, anyone have any ideas how to best remove the wall box since one with a front flange was used, not the side nails.

 

[larry4406]

You will also have the trim plate to contend with unless you can get that off from the fridge side (doubtful). If you can somehow remove the trim plate, then you can cut that flange off from the other room side and extract the box for repair.

If you take your base molding off from the back side (slit caulk and pry carefully), you might be able to access the outlet box without cutting exposed drywall. However, you still have the problem of getting into the single box to access the receptacle.

Maybe cut the back of the single gang box off to access the stabs? This would be a stab repair. Not sure how you would properly close the box back up.

Lacking any other option, and not wanting to jerk the fridge, I think I would cut a drywall square maybe 6x6" around that box from the back side and pull the assembly towards the adjacent room and correct the issue using the screw terminals (assumes wire is not compromised somewhere). Then put it all back; taping/caulking the drywall cut joint from other room side as you will never be able to finish it. Lack of finishing will not be noticeable behind the fridge.

 

[ycgoat]

If the refer uses a cord plug then it is designed to be removed.

 

[The Cobbler]

if you're going thru the back wall , just cut the fridge side too, to gain access to the box.

 

[BADSIX]

we have a built-in, double door with two drawers in the lower its big. i just rolled it out to shut the water off to check a problem with the water dispenser. mines on wheels, a 5-year-old could pull it out, well maybe two. i had one before that had wheels and a bolt that cranked the wheels down then simply rolled out. did you check to see if yours has wheels, it think most do.
Jay D.

 

[Proenneke_in_Spirit]

Cutting behind the wall seems like more damage than good (sounds like a money grab for the contractor to drown up some work). Even if it works, I assume the fridge side is still finished...?

Anyway, an 8mm socket and some cardboard is all you need. Cardboard on the floor if you have wood or just want to be cautious. There is a bolt to drop the back and then just lower the front foot. You will see either white or black plastic wheels right behind the foot. If the fridge is cleaned out, should be no problem rolling it out. If it has the freezer underneath, pull the drawer to shed more weight.

 

[BADSIX]

I moved mine full, it rolled easy. we have rather hard laminate flooring and it rolled out fine and left no tracks. i have an old HEAVY, VERY HEAVY wood desk i wanted to put in my office. we had to stand it on end to get it down the hallway and turn into the office, then down on its Leggs. the wife had these plastic sliders a thin UHMW material i think. when we tipped it on end we taped the sliders on and slid it on the laminate into the office then put them under the legs and moved it into position. it worked so easy a cavemen could do it.
Jay D.

 

[infinkc]

Thanks to all that have replied. Thought I’d take a pic of the fridge, as it’s not your standard fridge that is easily pulled out. This is 60” across, weighs 1000lbs.

 

[larry4406]

Thanks to all that have replied. Thought I’d take a pic of the fridge, as it’s not your standard fridge that is easily pulled out. This is 60” across, weighs 1000lbs.

Is that SubZero a single unit or two 30" individual towers (one fridge and other freezer) that have been mulled together? I am thinking the later.

 

[infinkc]

Is that SubZero a single unit or two 30" individual towers (one fridge and other freezer) that have been mulled together? I am thinking the later.

2 separate, put together

 

[PCustoms]

How the hell is that run off an outlet fed by 14 gage?

What is breaker size?

 

[sparky 1971]

How the hell is that run off an outlet fed by 14 gage?

What is breaker size?

Separate 15 amp circuits. Posts 7 and 11.

 

[larry4406]

OP’s install is almost the same as my wife’s new kitchen.

Yes each unit gets its own dedicated 15A circuit.

Ours aren’t mulled together like his. Wife’s Subzero 30” freezer column and 36” fridge column. Water line also to each - cubes left, chilled water right.

Units are beasts.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Dang! i dont want to know the price tag on those units

 

[larry4406]

Dang! i dont want to know the price tag on those units

Let’s just say my builder connections paid off substantially…

 

[sparky 1971]

Dang! i dont want to know the price tag on those units

My biggest customer just finished remodeling an office building. In this building there is a kitchen with two Sub Zero fridges and a break room with another. $20K each. It took six months for them to come in, and when they finally got here, the openings in the cabinets were 3/4" too narrow and the refrigerators wouldn't fit. I didn't do the job because it was way too big of a project for me, but I did have to go in and relocate the receptacles from 44" aff to the base board.

 

[Zeke]

 

[Zeke]

 

[Cruzan80]

Still dont see how you know.it is the outlet and not anything in the fridge. Something could be loose on the fridge plug end, in which case you are demoing a wall for no reason (outlet is still good).

With the camp of move the fridge, even if it is a pain.

Edit for clarity: Unless the front service panel is where the plug terminates, all you know is something between the breaker and there is bad. Not sure where the outlet is automatically at fault, vs something between the outlet and front service panel.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Still dont see how you know.it is the outlet and not anything in the fridge. Something could be loose on the fridge plug end, in which case you are demoing a wall for no reason (outlet is still good).

With the camp of move the fridge, even if it is a pain.

Edit for clarity: Unless the front service panel is where the plug terminates, all you know is something between the breaker and there is bad. Not sure where the outlet is automatically at fault, vs something between the outlet and front service panel.

If the receptacle was back stabbed, Id bet money on the issue being with the receptacle

 

[Cruzan80]

Not disagreeing with you, but all.we have to go on is the OP saying this:

15a, so yea it’s probably backstabbed.

Not the most definative in my mind, especially when.talking about opening up a wall. I get the fridge is big/heavy, but would want to base it off more than "probably". Then again, none of the outlets in my house were backstabbed, and plenty of 15A circuits.

 

[justsam]

I realize it is a bit naive, but I would not be happy about a custom home builder that was using back stabbed receptacles. Since this is a corded appliance isn't it just as likely that the cord was crushed and damaged in some way at the time of installation and is now failing?

 

[Milton Shaw]

I always used 1/8 inch tempered hardboard to protect the floor. Any wood floor would have ruts in it from moving a loaded refrig. An air sled is the best thing to move anything heavy on smooth floor. With them you move the frig with your fingers. You ought to see if you can rent one from a rental place. They use rubber coated metal slides and a vacuum blower to power them.

 

[BillK]

Any updates ??