Getting a PVC joint apart to reglue?

[derosa]

I'm not certain this is a possibility but I have a leaking joint in a new drain system I just installed. Not a big leak but enough to be noticable and being drain I'd really like to get rid of it. Actually surprised at where the leak is among all the joints I had to glue up, as it was the second to last and easiest joint to do. Right now my only thought is cut out the joint and a little extra, glue in connectors/splices and a whole new joint but that won't be easy as there isn't a lot of extra material to work with, basically I brought all three bathroom drains together into the basement stairwell so I could run the drain down the corner of the stairway and into the basement to connect it all.
I did make sure to use plenty of purple primer and lots of pvc cement but guess not enough in this one spot.
Alternate thoughts or ideas?

 

[outdoorspace]

Flexible Coupling, pvc

 

[mbatarga]

My plumber recommended trying to fix a leaking drain pipe junction in my basement by twisting the PVC glue swab/brush at the joint so that the glue would be forced into the seam. He said it couldn't hurt and sometimes works.

 

[theoldwizard1]

It is not going to come apart ! The glue is actually a solvent and the 2 piece "fuse" together. Cut the joint and install a flexible coupling or get a hard coupling and remove the stop in the middle so that it can be slid over one end and then back over the other. You will have to be fast as the glue sets up quick.

 

[Tim The Tool Man]

If the joint is poorly glued and you are able to twist the pipes, you may be able to disassemble the joint by slowly twisting it. It will take time and patience. Personally I would first wash the edges of the bad joint with primer and then slather more solvent on the joint. Next I would buy a fernco, slicing it and wrapping it over the pipe with the cut to the top. Then tighten the hose clamps over the assembly. Adding some silicone to the fernco first might not be a bad idea.

 

[6PTsocket]

I had a similar situation with ABS drain pipe in a very tight spot and I would have had to cut a lot to get it out. Remember, there is no pressure of any significance on a drain pipe. I saw that JB Weld for plasic covered several types including ABS. I roughed it up, wiped it down and applied the patch. This is a 2 two part putty you mix in your hands. That was several years ago. Not a drop. Look at it this way. It is a few minutes time and a few bucks. You have little to loose. If it works you are home free. If not, start cutting. It will probably work. Success with any glue job is dependent on good surface prep. I think they make another one specifially for PVC. Check their site or call for advice. They are very helpful.

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[sberry]

Sure, some JB would be great here.

 

[vettex2]

I have used a radiator hose before in a pinch

 

[derosa]

Thanks for the ideas, I'm headed to NYC for a night with the wife tomorrow, which will give 30 hours to dry, so the moment we get home I'll primer and slather on the cement and if that doesn't work try the JB weld. Unfortunately this is on a joint that points straight down but anything is worth trying. I've really tried working it apart and there's just no go. At least it is for a second bath so if it has to go down for a couple hours for cutting and fixing it's possible to do.

 

[s14kev]

I hate splicers/couplings. I also hate rubber 'fernco' fittings. Nothing worse than working on a drain system that has been hacked apart by a homeowner with a million couplers everywhere. I bought a full set of reamers a while back. It's the only way to get a professional result without couplers or replacing a whole branch of a system. Reed mfg. co. make the best.

On another note. Don't JB weld and don't slather cement on the outside. You won't find good plumbers using JB or throwing cement everywhere. It will leak later on.

 

[rusty1]

...get a union, cut it in half lengthwise and glue it rite over where your leak is, use plenty solvent.

 

[scooterboy]

Heat the pipe joint with a small propane torch, it will soften and come apart.
Go slow with the heat not so much that you melt the pvc.
When you get the connector off use a new one.

John

 

[sberry]

Yes, using heat can work. I will agree slobbering glue on isn't good but jb will fix a leak.

 

[Dirtydan69]

I hate splicers/couplings. I also hate rubber 'fernco' fittings. Nothing worse than working on a drain system that has been hacked apart by a homeowner with a million couplers everywhere. I bought a full set of reamers a while back. It's the only way to get a professional result without couplers or replacing a whole branch of a system. Reed mfg. co. make the best.

On another note. Don't JB weld and don't slather cement on the outside. You won't find good plumbers using JB or throwing cement everywhere. It will leak later on.

This exactly. Cut the pipe flush with the fitting. Cut the pipe back maybe 10" or so. This will give you room the work. Chuck the reamer up in your drill and cut the remaining pipe, inside the fitting, out with the reamer. You'll need a repair coupling. Slide the coupling over your pipe. Glue a new section of pipe into the fitting to make up for what you cut out. Make sure you clean and prime everything. Glue up the pipe joints and slide your repair coupling over the joint. Done. A repair coupling is slightly longer than a regular coupling and has no stops inside. Good luck! It's easier then it sounds.

 

[Dr Stan]

...get a union, cut it in half lengthwise and glue it rite over where your leak is, use plenty solvent.

This worked quite well for me when I was using an auger to make a hole to move a close-line post. Accidentally clipped the side of a 4" PVC drain pipe from my shop and really didn't want to dig a big hole.

 

[6PTsocket]

Thanks for the ideas, I'm headed to NYC for a night with the wife tomorrow, which will give 30 hours to dry, so the moment we get home I'll primer and slather on the cement and if that doesn't work try the JB weld. Unfortunately this is on a joint that points straight down but anything is worth trying. I've really tried working it apart and there's just no go. At least it is for a second bath so if it has to go down for a couple hours for cutting and fixing it's possible to do.

I did not use the regular JB weld, that you mix from 2 tubes. While very strong, I could have never kept it in place. This is the stuff that looks like a cylinder of modeling clay. There is an inner core of part A inside a layer of part B. They are two different colors. Cut off a piece, mix with hands until two colors blend into one uniform color, with no streaks. Press onto area needing repair with fingers. Vertical, horizontal, probably up side down; it makes no difference. It will not fall off. It hardens fairly fast. It is nothing new. I used it 40 years ago.

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[roc_on_the_rocks]

I'm not certain this is a possibility but I have a leaking joint in a new drain system I just installed. Not a big leak but enough to be noticable and being drain I'd really like to get rid of it. Actually surprised at where the leak is among all the joints I had to glue up, as it was the second to last and easiest joint to do. Right now my only thought is cut out the joint and a little extra, glue in connectors/splices and a whole new joint but that won't be easy as there isn't a lot of extra material to work with, basically I brought all three bathroom drains together into the basement stairwell so I could run the drain down the corner of the stairway and into the basement to connect it all.
I did make sure to use plenty of purple primer and lots of pvc cement but guess not enough in this one spot.
Alternate thoughts or ideas?

Would you have a picture?

 

[bdog]

If it is just a drain and no pressure there is no reason why JB weld wouldn't work.

 

[PugetDude]

Plumbers GOOP- the best leak repair you can buy in a tube.

 

[dadsEH]

Windscreen sealer works a treat.

 

[ard]

I hate splicers/couplings. I also hate rubber 'fernco' fittings. Nothing worse than working on a drain system that has been hacked apart by a homeowner with a million couplers everywhere. I bought a full set of reamers a while back. It's the only way to get a professional result without couplers or replacing a whole branch of a system. Reed mfg. co. make the best..

Glad someone posted these Reed cutters.

Worth repeating, IMO

I've had to redo piping on a complex pool/filter/solar system, with some pricey 2" jandy automatic valve. Cut the pipe off flush wih the edge of the female coupling, core out the pipe from inside the female fitting- good to go. I've added 3/4,1, 1.5 to that 2". There are times when cutting stuff back to get to a spot to use a coupling is just not feasible.

 

[tailshaft56]

Seems I have seen Rich T. on This old house use a special tool to drill out the female side for just this situation.

 

[crf731]

Its not going to come apart to reglue it. Cut a chunk out and start over with some new pieces.

 

[RAYJAY]

I hate splicers/couplings. I also hate rubber 'fernco' fittings. Nothing worse than working on a drain system that has been hacked apart by a homeowner with a million couplers everywhere. I bought a full set of reamers a while back. It's the only way to get a professional result without couplers or replacing a whole branch of a system. Reed mfg. co. make the best.

On another note. Don't JB weld and don't slather cement on the outside. You won't find good plumbers using JB or throwing cement everywhere. It will leak later on.

the reamers look great never seen them before you posted about them, good time saving and labor saving idea, going have to order a couple for on the truck .

 

[Fatboy148]

I hate splicers/couplings. I also hate rubber 'fernco' fittings. Nothing worse than working on a drain system that has been hacked apart by a homeowner with a million couplers everywhere. I bought a full set of reamers a while back. It's the only way to get a professional result without couplers or replacing a whole branch of a system. Reed mfg. co. make the best.

On another note. Don't JB weld and don't slather cement on the outside. You won't find good plumbers using JB or throwing cement everywhere. It will leak later on.

Wow! Those are nice!

For the OP's one time use, they may be a little pricey. Some folks also mentioned using a torch to heat the PVC. This guy came up with a solution that may be a bit safer/ better than the glue and open flame in the pipe/fitting.

 

[redmondjp]

To the OP - have you tried just taking some more PVC cement and applying it to the exterior of the leaking area (when it is dry)?

 

[red61cj5]

how bout this-http://flexreviews.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/work16-flexseal.jpg

 

[fivespdcat]

You don't need to use a torch. A heat gun works fine. I've also scored the pipe and chipped/pried it away.

 

[myredracer]

I've gotten a few 4" PVC fittings off in the past by using a sharp wood chisel and working it all around as needed. It will crack into pieces and I don't think you'll find the bond between the pipe & fitting is really that strong unless you used primer.

 

[59 wagon man]

come on guys we come here looking for professional and craftsman-like ways to do things. no offense meant to anyone but jb weld is temporary, I just used it to temp. patch a 2" galv. water line until I could get the pipe exposed to replace it. one trick is to wrap it with the metal band from a no-hub coupling. window screen glue? another thing to realize is the leak may not be at the bottom of the joint but maybe on the side and angling downhard. after all water runs downhill. The way to do it would be to cut it out and replace it. I would not use an expandedable repair fitting as it will cause things to hang up internally. instead of the rubber fenco's find a no hub coupling with the stainless steel band

 

[jrsulo]

I hate splicers/couplings. I also hate rubber 'fernco' fittings. Nothing worse than working on a drain system that has been hacked apart by a homeowner with a million couplers everywhere. I bought a full set of reamers a while back. It's the only way to get a professional result without couplers or replacing a whole branch of a system. Reed mfg. co. make the best.

On another note. Don't JB weld and don't slather cement on the outside. You won't find good plumbers using JB or throwing cement everywhere. It will leak later on.

I have a set like this on my truck,,,,,worth their weight in gold !!!!

 

[s14kev]

Reading everyone's responses makes me realize why my current home drain system is the way it is. A mess of couplers and rubber fittings with hose clamps all over the place with PVC cement drips everywhere. This house must have been owned by another GJ member before I bought it!

 

[sberry]

There is nothing wrong with using some epoxy on a limited leak if it solves it. There is a place for furnco's too. They are not for everything.

 

[kbs2244]

I have seen rusty1's idea in place.

A splice will have a ridge at the mid point.
You can grind it away or just use 1/2 the length.

They also make a "repair" splice without the ridge.

 

[sixty4]

I have every size of these. https://www.plumbingsupply.com/rambit-plastic-fitting-saver-tool.html
I just used the 3" one on a toilet flange that broke coming up through a slab. The tile guy tried to remove the toilet without removing the bolts first (most likely his helper). Not bad price wise either.

 

[6PTsocket]

I used regular JB Weld to reattach the transmission hose fitting on a radiator and it lasted for years until I sold the car. I did it in the dead of winter and cured it in a freezing garage with a space heater and cargo blankets. The drain was patched with JB putty several years ago and still looks perfect and bone dry. That type of putty even cures under water. I have a long list of repairs that I have made with one JB product or another , without a failure. Sorry if it offends your professional sensibilities but the repairs have been permanent for me. People hsve repaired engine blocks with the stuff. As I pointed out, fixing the drain pipe with the right epoxy putty is fast and cheap and if it works you are home free and if not you have lost very little. You probably do not have the luxury to wait around for epoxy to cure but the OP is a home owner, not ae plummer. I can see why you would rather replace the leaky joint and leave knowing it is good but that does not make it the only solution.

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[rlitman]

It is not going to come apart ! The glue is actually a solvent and the 2 piece "fuse" together. Cut the joint and install a flexible coupling or get a hard coupling and remove the stop in the middle so that it can be slid over one end and then back over the other. You will have to be fast as the glue sets up quick.

People think that PVC glue joints are solvent welds, but they aren't quite. The "glue" is a mixture of solvent and more PVC. As the solvent evaporates and works its way into the pipe, the glue in the gap foams. What this means, is that is this is on solid core pipe the joint has a much lower density than the pipe itself (unlike a proper solvent weld).

A real solvent weld is done on a joint with no gap, and isn't something you can take apart. But PVC plumbing joints come apart nicely with heat.

 

[PeterT]

I always use lots of Plumbers Putty when I get in a jam like this

 

[grommit]

Does this help?

 

[6PTsocket]

I always use lots of Plumbers Putty when I get in a jam like this

Plumbers putty does not even harden. That goes to show how little it takes to stop a drain pipe leak

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