getting out a small set screw?

[toolmiser]

I have a drill bit extension-garage sale find that uses a small "(1/8" wrench) allen set screw to tighten to bit. I've used liquid wrench for a couple weeks, propane torch, soaked in rust remover, and I can't get it out.

The "hex" seems to be worn so my wrenches just spin. Even with a new wrench, and I've used English and Metric.

I know these are usually pretty hard, and a drill in a drill press doesn't seem to touch it. It's not deep enough to get an "easy out" without drilling it.

Please give me some ideas how to proceed. I know it's not a big item, but hate to give up now.

I have a Mig welder, not really talented, but it their a way to "weld the wrench onto the set screw without welding the hole shut?

Thanks

 

[txvwnut]

Try a left hand drill bit, it bites and the screw’s loose enough it will spin it out. If not drill all the way through and re-tap the threads.

 

[Marctrees]

I have a few extensions like you got.

Seems to me good method may be to securely clamp your extension in drill press and use left hand twist bit.

Assuming the drill bit is good quality to affect that setscrew material.

If you go off to the side you can re tap a size up seems to me.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

Typed at same time as Txv !

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

Machinists can correct me.. but I think I would feed a bit extra hard to get the bit to grab rather than just micro shavings.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

Maybe before you drill once again oil and heat up then place on vise anvil and beat on that end abit carefully w a BFH.

Than drill.

Ley us know how it goes.. even small things like this are good to hear about.

Marc

 

[kelpaso1]

I doubt a left hand drill bit will get it out if it is that stuck that he rounded the hex. I've had good luck hammering a TORX bit in the rounded hex.

 

[Marctrees]

I like that torx idea.. a side benefit is that hammering it in may break it loose.

Marc

 

[fourbyford]

...had 100% success with left hand drill bits removing set screws...
Get screw machine length (stubby) cobalt bits... rpm a bit slower than normal (set screws are heat treated alloy)... easy on the feed. The set screw is "stuck" because someone overtightened it and it is bound on the drill bit it is holding in place. Once you remove enough of the set screw to release the pressure, the handle on the mill (or drill press) will sort of "rebound" as the set screw backs itself out of the hole. In our shop, over the years, we had this happen to a number of indexable insert tool holders... never lost one!
Choose as drill bit smaller than the OD of your set screw (obviously) and make sure you line up on the center of the hole. If you cant find a cobalt bit, hss would probably work... but cobalt is better!
...D

 

[toolmiser]

I was able to get the bit out without loosening the set screw. I will try some of your methods and report back, unless I really goof up.

 

[matt_i]

Its possible that the material in the setscrew has been hardened by heating or rubbing with a dull drill bit.

A possibility is to use the dental bit in a dremel set to try to hog out some of the material and get below the "case" so your drill bits can begin to cut into it.

A LH bit is excellent but not required, as long as the part underneath it isnt unobtanium (like some kind of generic spade bit) you can just core out the whole setscrew. So, along the lines of doing that, if you know the thread size you can get the correct tap-drill and use that to potentially core out the entire setscrew less the threads.

Another tactic is to cut off the shank its holding flush and try to carefully hog that out so the clampload on the fastener is released. Important not to scar the ID when doing that step.

Edit: just saw your progress report, I would place a flat-end rod on the setscrew and give it a couple of heavy raps with a hammer. Now you're just dealing with whatever is locking the threads. Oxyacetylene would be ideal.

 

[unslow1]

Do you have an impact driver you can put a small bit in?

 

[PCustoms]

I was able to get the bit out without loosening the set screw. I will try some of your methods and report back, unless I really goof up.

Bit probably spun in the extension and galled the tip of the setscrew so it won't back out.

Can you drive it in?

 

[toolmiser]

Good news, I got it removed. I had a cheap TORX bit that I pounded in and put it in my impact driver, it rounded off the edges. I thought that gave up a little too easy (before I "chattered" the driver at all, so I found a better torx, pounded it in good, and tried again. I thought it moved a little so I reversed the direction and it moved, so I put it in reverse, and a little rat a tat, and it backed right out.
Then I needed to go into my -1 Degree garage (Wisconsin) and find a replacement.

Thanks a lot, little project but I would rather go down swinging than just throw it out. Might come in handy some day.

 

[Farmallboy15]

I have never had a screw extractor work until I tried one of these on my cordless impact driver:


Highly recommend!!

https://www.lowes.com/pd/speedout-8...9ITGXlDjX5330XqRLzcUfppYNnBrNZ-MaArrfEALw_wcB

 

[kelpaso1]

Some times the tried and true methods are the best solutions. I forgot to mention an impact driver or the kind you hammer on. I use this a lot to get screws out of brake M/C covers on atv's that are mangled.

 

[PFSard]

Is this what you are referring?

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Speedbor+88601+Drill+Bit+Extension&i=tools&ref=nb_sb_noss

 

[PugetDude]

Good news, I got it removed. I had a cheap TORX bit that I pounded in and put it in my impact driver, it rounded off the edges. I thought that gave up a little too easy (before I "chattered" the driver at all, so I found a better torx, pounded it in good, and tried again. I thought it moved a little so I reversed the direction and it moved, so I put it in reverse, and a little rat a tat, and it backed right out.
Then I needed to go into my -1 Degree garage (Wisconsin) and find a replacement.

Thanks a lot, little project but I would rather go down swinging than just throw it out. Might come in handy some day.

Reading this thread, it's apparent your screen name is appropriate!

 

[Innovate1]

Hammering on the setscrew likely helped loosen it up. I recently had some really tight philips head screws. Some moderated tapping on the screw head (fairly small screws) and an impact tool - the type you hit with a hammer - got it loose without camming out of the philips slots.

 

[BD1]

Glad you gotta. Next time ,drop a nut over it and weld . The heat will help to remove.

 

[bwringer]

With these teensy-tiny setscrew sizes, I've also found that you need to try several brands of hex bits, keys, and drivers to find the one with the tightest fit.

I mean, in your case it was already rounded out, so this doesn't really apply. However, it's something to remember in future cases. In smaller sizes, normal tolerances start to matter a lot more, so quite often you'll find one brand or set fits better than your other stuff.

I've found sometimes an expensive brand fits better, sometimes it's a cheap no-name set. Gotta gather up your collection and try 'em out before you really reef on a small setscrew.

Also, many setscrews are installed with Loctite, so heating them up with a beefy soldering iron beforehand can help a lot.

 

[metalmagpie]

I have had success by cutting out a little piece of steel sheet, about like a stamp. Then punch a hole in the middle, clamp it dead center over the hole, and start your MIG wire right through the hole. Burn it in good. Then weld a nut on and twist.
BTW that technique of slightly tightening before loosening is an old millwright trick, and a good one.

metalmagpie

 

[PassnThru]

Seems to me good method may be to securely clamp your extension in drill press and use left hand twist bit.

Assuming the drill bit is good quality to affect that setscrew material.

Machinists can correct me.. but I think I would feed a bit extra hard to get the bit to grab rather than just micro shavings.

Marc

Not a machinist Marc but I advise against feeding extra hard. In my experience, it's too easy to break the bit and then you made the job twice as hard. Left hand bits will extract a screw where the head is gone but the threads aren't super locked up. If you destroy the head trying to get it out, then a bit is going to break before the screw releases. In that case, you want to carefully drill the hole and use an extractor.