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Getting ready for Rust Bullet Help

DodgeDak

Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2016
Messages
6
Good Morning Everyone!
I have been Googling, researching and reading on what I should use to cover my garage floor and I think I'm set on using Rust Bullet.
I will be doing this project by myself; no one to paint the edges while I roll, no one to mix Part-A and Part-B and no one to broadcast flakes - this will be a true DIY project.

Here's the back story on the garage floor:
The floor is 280SF and 2 years old, it has seen basic foot traffic from going in and out with supplies and doing yard work. There may be a tiny spot or two of new oil that dripped from something. I pressure washed the floor a few months ago with an electric 1600psi pressure washer - no cleaners were used, straight cold water. I've performed a moisture test (taped down plastic to see if any moisture gets trapped - none) and checked to see if the concrete is absorbent (poured a cup of water on the concrete - it does absorb).

Now come the questions because I know with all my research I missed stuff:
- Does this seem like something I can do on my own (I'm not a painter by any means)?
- From my square footage it seems I'll need a gallon and an additional quart - will this get me through 2 coats?
- It seems I need "Bloxygen" to preserve the unused portions of Rust Bullet, what do I need to know about this stuff (how to use it, how much do I spray in the can, how long will Rust Bullet last after adding this stuff, etc.).
- I read somewhere I need clean the concrete with a detergent (Tide), deck brush and then a 3000psi pressure washer - what if I can't get a 3000psi pressure washer?
Any other information, advice, etc. anyone can offer I would GREATLY appreciate it!!

Thank you all in advance for your replies!!!
 
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Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
Good Morning Everyone!
I have been Googling, researching and reading on what I should use to cover my garage floor and I think I'm set on using Rust Bullet.
I will be doing this project by myself; no one to paint the edges while I roll, no one to mix Part-A and Part-B and no one to broadcast flakes - this will be a true DIY project.

Here's the back story on the garage floor:
The floor is 280SF and 2 years old, it has seen basic foot traffic from going in and out with supplies and doing yard work. There may be a tiny spot or two of new oil that dripped from something. I pressure washed the floor a few months ago with an electric 1600psi pressure washer - no cleaners were used, straight cold water. I've performed a moisture test (taped down plastic to see if any moisture gets trapped - none) and checked to see if the concrete is absorbent (poured a cup of water on the concrete - it does absorb).

Now come the questions because I know with all my research I missed stuff:
- Does this seem like something I can do on my own (I'm not a painter by any means)?
- From my square footage it seems I'll need a gallon and an additional quart - will this get me through 2 coats?
- It seems I need "Bloxygen" to preserve the unused portions of Rust Bullet, what do I need to know about this stuff (how to use it, how much do I spray in the can, how long will Rust Bullet last after adding this stuff, etc.).
- I read somewhere I need clean the concrete with a detergent (Tide), deck brush and then a 3000psi pressure washer - what if I can't get a 3000psi pressure washer?
Any other information, advice, etc. anyone can offer I would GREATLY appreciate it!!

Thank you all in advance for your replies!!!

- Does this seem like something I can do on my own (I'm not a painter by any means)?

Rust Bullet is about as easy at it gets and 280 SF is a very manageable area to cover. The key here is you need to get the flake broadcast in as soon as possible, and preferably not walking back across the whole floor. So having someone to throw the flake would be ideal, but for that small of an area you could get by doing an area, flaking it and moving on...


- From my square footage it seems I'll need a gallon and an additional quart - will this get me through 2 coats?

Based on average concrete you will need 1 gallon and two quarts of gray. You will need the same in clear if you are doing flake.



- It seems I need "Bloxygen" to preserve the unused portions of Rust Bullet, what do I need to know about this stuff (how to use it, how much do I spray in the can, how long will Rust Bullet last after adding this stuff, etc.).

From the description of the job, you are not going to need it. You will use almost all your material and I cant see how it would be worth saving. You have about 30 days to use the product, once opened.


- I read somewhere I need clean the concrete with a detergent (Tide), deck brush and then a 3000psi pressure washer - what if I can't get a 3000psi pressure washer?

The concrete needs to be clean and dry. They do not have a specific suggestion as to what detergent and what pressure washer to use. Sometimes, for example, if you have drywall to the floor, you can't use one at all. It is also important to note that real smooth concrete will take extra prep.
Any other information, advice, etc. anyone can offer I would GREATLY appreciate it!!
 
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D

DodgeDak

Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2016
Messages
6
Hi Justin, thanks for the great response, I have additional questions now...

- Does this seem like something I can do on my own (I'm not a painter by any means)?

Rust Bullet is about as easy at it gets and 280 SF is a very manageable area to cover. The key here is you need to get the flake broadcast in as soon as possible, and preferably not walking back across the whole floor. So having someone to throw the flake would be ideal, but for that small of an area you could get by doing an area, flaking it and moving on...

When I apply my flakes (a light broadcast not full coverage), can I use spiked shoes to walk over the freshly covered floor or are spiked shoes not suggested at all? If I can't wait until the end/or use spiked shoes, I guess a good idea is to just keep the bag of flakes on me that I can toss after covering a section?


- It seems I need "Bloxygen" to preserve the unused portions of Rust Bullet, what do I need to know about this stuff (how to use it, how much do I spray in the can, how long will Rust Bullet last after adding this stuff, etc.).

From the description of the job, you are not going to need it. You will use almost all your material and I cant see how it would be worth saving. You have about 30 days to use the product, once opened.

If I lay the first coat on day 1, seal the can and then reopen the can for coat 2 the following day I won't have any problems?


- I read somewhere I need clean the concrete with a detergent (Tide), deck brush and then a 3000psi pressure washer - what if I can't get a 3000psi pressure washer?

The concrete needs to be clean and dry. They do not have a specific suggestion as to what detergent and what pressure washer to use. Sometimes, for example, if you have drywall to the floor, you can't use one at all. It is also important to note that real smooth concrete will take extra prep.

No drywall, just bare studs. In regards to the Tide, I heard it was good for oil spots and general dirt cleaning. Is there anything you suggest or sell or is Tide laundry detergent sufficient from the description of the floor?
Also, what is considered "real smooth concrete", when my floor was poured they leveled it with a piece of lumber and then smoothed it off with a trowel.

Thanks AGAIN!!
 

Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
Hi Justin, thanks for the great response, I have additional questions now...



When I apply my flakes (a light broadcast not full coverage), can I use spiked shoes to walk over the freshly covered floor or are spiked shoes not suggested at all? If I can't wait until the end/or use spiked shoes, I guess a good idea is to just keep the bag of flakes on me that I can toss after covering a section?




If I lay the first coat on day 1, seal the can and then reopen the can for coat 2 the following day I won't have any problems?




No drywall, just bare studs. In regards to the Tide, I heard it was good for oil spots and general dirt cleaning. Is there anything you suggest or sell or is Tide laundry detergent sufficient from the description of the floor?
Also, what is considered "real smooth concrete", when my floor was poured they leveled it with a piece of lumber and then smoothed it off with a trowel.

Thanks AGAIN!!

If I lay the first coat on day 1, seal the can and then reopen the can for coat 2 the following day I won't have any problems?



If you seal the can when not in use, you should have about 30 days, so yes. I actually put the lid on each and every time I step away. Make sure you remix.

When I apply my flakes (a light broadcast not full coverage), can I use spiked shoes to walk over the freshly covered floor or are spiked shoes not suggested at all? If I can't wait until the end/or use spiked shoes, I guess a good idea is to just keep the bag of flakes on me that I can toss after covering a section?

Its one of those yes but situations. As long as you broadcast into the wet coating you are ok. BUT if the humidity goes up, or if it takes longer than you thought, etc, and you broadcast into a dry or not real wet floor, the flake won't stick, the clear sticks to the flake and when the flake comes up..... Really and truly finding someone to help is a good idea. My guess is you will only need them for an hour or two.

Also, what is considered "real smooth concrete", when my floor was poured they leveled it with a piece of lumber and then smoothed it off with a trowel.

Power troweled, smooth concrete feels smooth when you run your hand over it. Hand troweled concrete feels a little rough, but not like a driveway or sidewalk.

Schedule

You did not ask directly, but I want to cover this. Usually when doing flake and clear, you end up having a section of the floor that dries overnight. It is better for this to be the first coat of gray than it is for it to be the second coat of gray. So I suggest one of the two schedules:

Night before: First coat of gray
Next Morning: Second Coat of Gray & Flake
Next Afternoon: Clear

or

Coat one, early am. Coat two, mid day and coat three (clear) evening.
 

DC73

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 27, 2014
Messages
1,638
Location
Lubbock TX
You can do it. I did 1,000 sq ft of floor by myself using Rust Bullet and it turned out great. Two coats of gray, flakes and 3 coats of clear (only because I had extra clear). I did use spike shoes when applying the flakes. I flaked about 250 sq ft at a time so you might be able to do yours all at once depending on the application conditions. If not, I would recommend you portion out your flakes ahead of time by how much area you intend to do before flaking.

I was afraid I would get too heavy with the flakes early and not have enough left by the end so I divided my batch of flakes into 8 equal portions and made two passes for each 250 sq ft section to get the coverage even.

Good luck,

DC
 

Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
You can do it. I did 1,000 sq ft of floor by myself using Rust Bullet and it turned out great. Two coats of gray, flakes and 3 coats of clear (only because I had extra clear). I did use spike shoes when applying the flakes. I flaked about 250 sq ft at a time so you might be able to do yours all at once depending on the application conditions. If not, I would recommend you portion out your flakes ahead of time by how much area you intend to do before flaking.

I was afraid I would get too heavy with the flakes early and not have enough left by the end so I divided my batch of flakes into 8 equal portions and made two passes for each 250 sq ft section to get the coverage even.

Good luck,

DC



Great post DC! Good idea on splitting flake. Pics?
 

DC73

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 27, 2014
Messages
1,638
Location
Lubbock TX

I did this last fall and will have to look to see what pics I took back then. After the Rust Bullet, I installed 6" x 24" porcelain tile as baseboard so I could hose out the shop. I had intended to take photos of the finished empty shop after the baseboards were installed. Got ahead of myself and started moving in and it's an absolute mess at the moment. If nothing else, I'll get it cleaned up good this fall and will be able to take some decent photos.

DC
 
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DodgeDak

Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2016
Messages
6
Thanks for the encouragement DC73, I appreciate it!

I just thought of more questions....

- What do I use to fill holes in the concrete floor, it seems something fell so the holes are about 1/2 deep and wide.
- I know Rust Bullet adheres well to surfaces, but do you suggest a primer as well just as a precautionary measure?

Thanks everyone, have a great weekend!
 
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DC73

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 27, 2014
Messages
1,638
Location
Lubbock TX
- What do I use to fill holes in the concrete floor, it seems something fell so the holes are about 1/2 deep and wide.
- I know Rust Bullet adheres well to surfaces, but do you suggest a primer as well just as a precautionary measure?

No need for primer.

I used this to fill the control joints in the concrete as well as a few places where leaves and debris had been embedded in the concrete:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...oncrete-Patch-and-Repair-Kit-215173/202097324

DC
 
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DodgeDak

Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2016
Messages
6
Thanks DC73. Is there anything else I can use or something smaller is size (less expensive), I have two dime size spots to repair - I'd hate to buy that whole thing for such little work.

Thanks!
 
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DodgeDak

Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2016
Messages
6
I just placed my order today. I'll post an update once I get my garage floor covered with Rust Bullet.

Thank you to everyone that replied to my questions and a big 'THANK YOU' to Justin Krauss from Garage Flooring, LLC for all his help. It's not that often you get the attention and dedication that I got from Justin, I only wish other company's were as great to work with.

Thanks again everyone!
 

Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
I just placed my order today. I'll post an update once I get my garage floor covered with Rust Bullet.

Thank you to everyone that replied to my questions and a big 'THANK YOU' to Justin Krauss from Garage Flooring, LLC for all his help. It's not that often you get the attention and dedication that I got from Justin, I only wish other company's were as great to work with.

Thanks again everyone!

Thank you! The pleasure was all mine but I always appreciate the kind words! :beer:
 
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DodgeDak

Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2016
Messages
6
Hi Everyone!
What kind of respirator do you suggest?
Should I keep the garage door and window closed while rolling the Rust Bullet to avoid anything coming in and landing on the wet surface?

Thanks again!
 

pinkerton

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Joined
Sep 14, 2016
Messages
77
Can't comment on the respirator, but can say that bugs landing in your work is not cool. I had to sand them out of my epoxy floor and fix
 
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