Getting start with 27x40 shop

[Chris F.]

Hi folks,

Long time reader, first time thread poster. I recently moved to a house in western MA with an unifinished 27x40 detached garage. The ceilings are 12'3", 6" floor, 100A service, and lofted storage space above. I'd like to convert this to a place for working on my track car (89 BMW 325), summer car (88 M3) and our daily drivers, as well as other misc projects. This means making it something I can work in year-round on the weekends, and storage for fluids and things that shouldn't freeze.

I travel during the week for work, so realistically the only way to prevent this being a 5 year project is to sub out some of the pieces when it's something I'm not comfortable with (gas lines!) or labor intensive for me to do alone.

I'd welcome any suggestions on what I'm forgetting, especially things that are a PITA to add later, or corrections in what I'm thinking.

1) FLOOR: "paint" the floor. since it's already stained at this point, necessary to grind, right? I think epoxy is plenty for my needs.

2) ELECTRIC: I have quite a few 110 outlets, but would like to wire 220 for a compressor (under stairs), lift (over left rear parking bay), and window a/c. What am I missing? (I don't weld currently, or have immediate plans to learn.)

3) HEAT: I have a 1000gal propane tank in the front yard, about 100yards away (not a straight shot). I also have plastic conduit running from the basement of the house near the furnace & water heater to the garage (assuming I can't run a flex gas line through that?). I'd like to be able to keep it ~40 in the garage in the winter, and just warmer when I'm using it. Thoughts on plumbing off existing tank vs. small secondary tank vs. electric?

4) WALLS/CEILING: In case I ever need to open a wall to change something, am I better off sticking with fiberglass insulation vs. spray foam? And at my size, is there an expected advantage in cost of one vs. the other? Leaning towards dry wall vs. OSB, but could be talked out of it. I'm expecting to keep the upper storage space uninsulated, walling off the stairs with an isulated door (maybe a double door, even if awkward, so I can snake larger items upstairs).

Any input is appreciated!

- Chris

 

[kbs2244]

For heat I wpuld go with another small tank and a vented mobile home sized furnace.
This will give you thermostat and fans and duct system ability.

For walls fiberglass is the easy DIY way to go.
I like ply or OSB for the bottom 4 feet for impact resistance.
Paint it white before you put it up. It is too easy to start leaning stuff against it and that makes it easy to put off the painting.
The next 4 feet the heavy 1/4, white, peg board for flexability.
Above that whatever you like. I expect cheap paneling, painted white will be fine.

 

[KiltLifter]

Here's a thought - insulate the rafters, not the downstairs ceiling. It will keep the attic at a more stable temp year round and let you store liquids up there.
In addition to that, you could use the silver-faced insulation board for the downstairs ceiling. It comes anywhere from 1/4" to 3", but the thin stuff is fairly cheap. It would keep some of the heat downstairs (or most of it if you went thick) AND reflect lots of light.
I got some of the thick stuff for free once (well, it cost me 2 cases of Bud) when they were re-roofing a nearby building, and held it up with screws and fender washers (rental house, needed to be removable) removable is good sometimes, like when you add that airline or vac system. Between that and the R13 fiberglass wall insulation, the hot car would keep the garage warm all night. The foil is slick, so a dust mop easily cleaned it when dirty (spider webs mostly).

 

[Falcon67]

If it was me
1) grind and epoxy before moving in

2) If you have the funds, think about a mini-split vs a window AC big enough to manage that space. You might be out another $300~400 but you'd likely make it back in the long run. Make sure your power panel has an access panel above it with access to at least the top of the box and ideally again at the top plate. You can always then go back and run more wires.

3) I'd hang something like a vented 45K propane heater with a remote t-stat. For fuel I'd T off at the tank with a shop run, including a separate shut off at the tank and at the shop.

4) In order of expense - in this area, low to high - it's blown, fiberglass batt, spray. I like batt in the walls under OSB and you can remove the panels should the need arise (which I've done twice in two areas since completion). Looks like your attic is decked - R30 batt unfaced is fairly cheap - you could consider that in the joists with plastic under that then sheetrock or OSB on the ceiling.

 

[Chris F.]

Thanks for all the feedback.

I would consider a mini split in the future, as I think even a window unit will be put off till next summer at this point. I figured I'd run 220 just in case I wanted a large window a/c, but could always find another use for it.

As for insulating the attic vs. the downstairs ceiling, wouldn't I be losing too much heat out the eves and ridge to make that worthwhile? I didn't mention originally, but don't plan to be going in and out with cars daily, so there wouldn't be at hot cars to add some heat. I was thinking a hanging propane heater, too. A bit worried about all the rocks (have a few 10' boulders exposed, lots of smaller ones scattered around) in the way to dig from the main tank (front yard) back to the garage, but would be nice to only have one tank to watch.

Anyway, I appreciate the insights,
- Chris