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Getting Window Estimates

Falcon67

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We went through HD to replace the windows in our house. Anderson vinyl double hung. Waited for a "15% off all custom door and window sale". Installer was good, Door/Window manager at HD put in wrong dimensions on first order - HD ate that and fired the idiot. Replacement worked his *** off to get it right. Anderson was a pain as they sent the wrong replacement for one busted in shipping, in spite of having the tag number off the window.

>I have to replace my windows. My house has the aluminum windows that look like poop.

It was fun to take the old builder windows out of a brick house. Heat gun to weaken glue on panes, remove sashes, cut frame and peal that sucker right out of the wall. Nice.
 
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BuffettFan

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Windows are something I would like to eventually change out at my new-to-me home. House was built in 68 and has the aluminum sided windows. They all work fine, but just look dated.

Grandfather, who was a cabinet maker, told me to pick one of the windows in the back and try to replace it myself. Do one a weekend and be done in a couple months.

One day perhaps!

Great advice from your grandfather. If you have any carpentry skills, this is a job you can do.
I replaced 14 rotted, wooden windows in my old house, built in 1948, with new construction vinyl windows from Menard's. IIRC, around $200 each. I believe the brand was Phillips.
First pair of windows took all weekend, was doing 3 to 4 per weekend before I was done.
Made a huge difference in the heating bills and in sound deadening.:thumbup:
 

Stuart in MN

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You should contact Anderson. Your windows might still be under warranty.

I'm wondering why windows that new have to be replaced as well. I have original Andersen windows in my house that are still in good shape, and it was built in 1913. :)
 

bmwpowere36m3

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I wouldn't put Anderson 100 series in my garage... so cheap and flimsy. I actually bought them first to save a few bucks (put in the garage). Installed both, regretted it immediately and bought a set of 400 series (like the rest of the house).

I did my whole ranch a couple years ago with casement Anderson 400s including a bow. I want to say I spent 5-6k on 7 windows (all fairly large windows, 4x4, 6x4, 5x5, 7x4, 9x5, 4x3, 4x3) at HD when they had a 20% promo for just the windows (installed myself).

The ones for the garage were only $400 or so a piece, but smaller and "stocked" item.
 

Catadj78

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>I have to replace my windows. My house has the aluminum windows that look like poop.

It was fun to take the old builder windows out of a brick house. Heat gun to weaken glue on panes, remove sashes, cut frame and peal that sucker right out of the wall. Nice.

Where I live most of the house are older meaning remodels and window work was done on houses built pre 1940 some as old as late 1850s. Those were the fun ones. Some we only had to rebuild some of the wood windows using as much of the old as possible because they had to be historically accurate.

The newer homes especially brick ones are so much easier
 

purplezr2

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I have anderson casement windows at a beach house -- installed in 1994-5 ... not one problem ... they are all fine. I'm wondering what would make one of yours fail from 2002?

If they have rot -- I would be looking at why before installing new. My original french doors all failed - but, that was because of a bad design .. Andersen helped me out with replacement panels.

How complex is the trim on your casements? What's the siding outside? I'm trying to visualize a replacement window inside of a casement?

I'm not a big fan of replacement windows -- have reluctantly used them with some success on a couple projects. The cheap ones can really screw up the look of a traditional home with double hung windows built before WWII .... the best ones have small frames and many sizes so the need for filler strips traduced


Have Anderson casements from the same time period, all rotten, poorly installed and poor flashing.
 

BuffettFan

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I'm wondering why windows that new have to be replaced as well. I have original Andersen windows in my house that are still in good shape, and it was built in 1913. :)

Most likely the same reason that mine needed replaced, lack of maintenance from previous owners.
I didn't realize Andersen had been around that long, but yours prove that taken care of, they will last a very long time! :thumbup:
 

yeldogt

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Have Anderson casements from the same time period, all rotten, poorly installed and poor flashing.

My memory was that they were self flashing?
-- the double hung windows had this silly gasket extension -- but the casements had a wide flashing (part of the frame cladding).

I liked them for the beach because of wide flashing -- I remember we caulked them directly to the sheathing -- used ice shield all around the window and then Tyvek. House has vinyl shakes --
 

D45

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$25k for 22 Pella windows with built in blinds, interior wood trim included and exterior finished.....in 1999[/QU

Well, you got Sold I guess.

The Salesperson had an AWESOME "Steak House" Dinner. Marc

Oh these 22, 3 of them were large picture windows, over 8 feet long each and nearly 6 feet tall.....custom size

At the time, 6 quotes were obtained and $25k was the cheapest

Also, of the 22 windows, 12 were a custom made "non standard" size
 

Jess

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I got a number of quotes for my replacement cottage build. All north of $25k for wood windows exterior clad with aluminum to my colour of choice. This is for a small summer place. A few that I have dealt with on my other big projects wouldn't even quote 'supply only' as the plant can't keep up with the demand for their 'installed' jobs. Its so busy with building in this region that prices are not negotiable and costs going through the roof. You cans still get stock vinyl windows to install yourself for reasonable cost if you don't need any fancy options.
 

Falcon67

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Where I live most of the house are older meaning remodels and window work was done on houses built pre 1940 some as old as late 1850s. Those were the fun ones. Some we only had to rebuild some of the wood windows using as much of the old as possible because they had to be historically accurate.

The newer homes especially brick ones are so much easier

The first house we had here was mostly built in 1928. When I replaced the windows with new aluminum double pane units, I found that after cutting out the original wood window frames, all I had to do was shim with a 2x4 on the sides and drop in a 32x60 common window. The back bedroom was added sometime in the 70s - I had to cut sheetrock, siding and re-frame places to do the same thing back there.
 

ZipSnafu

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Virginia
I just had 12 windows installed in my house for $7,000. They are IMO, a very nice double hung vinyl, wood mix. Double pane windows. One large and the rest where "standard" size. They definitely made the house a lot quieter. The guys that did it sure made it look easy to install and was done in a day... a long day but a day all the same.
 

6768rogues

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If the price is for replacement windows that fit in the existing frame, you are getting raped. If it is for complete new construction windows from a reputable company such as Andersen or Marvin, with all the associated work by real craftsmen, the price is ok.
I would not put a Pella window in an outhouse. They have flat surfaces that catch water and let water freeze on them. Also, the ones with internal blinds have a removable glass, which means it is not a sealed insulated glass unit with argon fill and low e. Crappy windows that are not energy efficient and are over priced. Sorry to those who bought them. I was in the window business for a long time and I had opportunities to buy truckloads of Pella windows for almost nothing. They are a huge profit margin window.
 

Homerr

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Seattle, WA
2014 quotes I got:

Renewal by Andersen - 31,000 for 12 windows which were the dual horizontal sliders, I LOL'd at the guy; he said they could do the 100 series for $16,000.

Local window supplier: $4,200 for the same 12 Andersen 100 series windows + I talked with their independent installer who said $300/window for a total installed cost of $7,800 and I would paint the trim on the outside (inside is sheetrock wrap that they would cut back to install new window and caulk).

Local window installer: $10,600 for same deal as above.


This is in Seattle, things are booming here and I wouldn't be surprised to see prices 15% higher here right now compared to 3 years ago.
 

Todd.Brock

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Cincinnati
I was quoted 12,500 for 19 windows. Mix of DH, sliders and a picture window. Polaris Brand. Made somewhere in Ohio. Materials were 8k and contractor to install is about 100 bucks a window. That means the sales guy at the window company was going to be making some good money !!
 

reader2580

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Most likely the same reason that mine needed replaced, lack of maintenance from previous owners.
I didn't realize Andersen had been around that long, but yours prove that taken care of, they will last a very long time! :thumbup:

I had Andersen 400 series casements in my previous house and the same in my current house. What maintenance is required with a vinyl exterior?
 

6768rogues

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I had Andersen 400 series casements in my previous house and the same in my current house. What maintenance is required with a vinyl exterior?

No maintenance. I have some that are about 35 years old and they are still as new. If the vinyl does get damaged like from a falling tree, Andersen has a repair kit available.
 

6768rogues

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The price is also dependent on interior finish. If there is a drywall wrap, that it cheap and easy. That is why builders do it. I have red oak sills, extension jambs and fluted casings with plinth blocks. That is on the other end of the cost spectrum.
 

reader2580

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I know someone who owns a house where new vinyl windows were inserted inside the original window frames. It look hideous and it makes the usable area of the window a lot smaller too. I have rarely noticed the same on other houses locally so it either isn't the norm here, or other window places do it better.

I had the windows and siding replaced on my house so the contractor used new construction Andersen 400 series windows. The windows look like they belong on the house.
 
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polizei1

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My uncle is self-employed, and as been a window/door installer for 40+ years. I worked with him full-time for 3 years, so I had my fair share of window/door installs, so here's my advice, it's free so it certainly can't hurt...

We only worked with Andersen and Marvin, and there's a darn good reason why. As with any product, there are the bottom of the barrel (Jeld-Wen, Gilkey, Champion, etc. etc.), mid-grade (Pella), and high end (Andersen/Marvin). This is of course excluding custom manufactures, and is subject to local availability. There may be other REALLY good high end manufactures in the US, but the cost was too high for "normal" people or just were not available through our distributor.

Within each product, there are different models and options, just like vehicles. Andersen for example, starts with the vinyl-clad 100 series and goes up to the 400 series Woodwrights. The 100 series are a great cost-savings window, if the vinyl-clad look fits your style of house. Obviously they are not going to be built to the same standards as a 400.

With windows/doors, you need to think about insulation values and durability. While an "expensive" window/door may costs more upfront, if they last 2-3+ times as long, is it really a bad investment?

Personal experience:

Marvin are the best, simply put. They are extremely expensive however, and surely out of most peoples price-range.

I would recommend the Andersen 100's if you want a cost-effective vinyl-clad, the 200's if you want more of a wood-look window, and the 400's if you can swing it. The 400's are really good windows and are what we installed ~80% of the time.

By far the most important thing is to get a good contractor that actually knows what they are doing! Simply taking out an old window and screwing a new one in absolutely not how it works. It's certainly not rocket science, but there actually is a lot of knowledge that goes into proper installation to make them last a long time and not rot out frames, have condensation, sticky (hard) open/close, etc. Go to your local lumbar yard (NOT HD/Lowes), who actually sells Andersen windows (and not Renewal by Andersen - totally different), and ask them for a recommended contractor.

My uncle uses 400's in his own house, and I'm currently building a house using the 400's. You should absolutely expect to spend ~$300-500 per window (depending on size) and a labor fee of $500/day was my uncle's rate plus material costs (trim, caulk, shims, etc.). Jobs were bid by the number of days to come to a final price, 8 windows would probably be ~$8,000-10,000. To give you an idea of just window cost, my house is using 21 various size 400's and an 8' 400 slider, pricing is ~$13,000. This obviously doesn't include the other materials listed above, or labor. This is for double-hung, casements costs more, and depends on options.
 
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Homerr

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polezei1, good info. Though the 100 series are the fibrex material and not vinyl. They are available in 4 interior colors and 6 exterior colors and are paintable, a better choice than vinyl imo unless you are really budget-conscious.
 

yeldogt

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I know someone who owns a house where new vinyl windows were inserted inside the original window frames. It look hideous and it makes the usable area of the window a lot smaller too. I have rarely noticed the same on other houses locally so it either isn't the norm here, or other window places do it better.

I had the windows and siding replaced on my house so the contractor used new construction Andersen 400 series windows. The windows look like they belong on the house.

Correct -- generic discussion about "window replacement" = pointless. What's acceptable for one homeowner is not for the next. When doing rehabs years ago I was always getting window guys telling me how much they could "save me" going the replacement route. It's not a saving if your new windows screw up the curb appeal of a house you want to eventually sell. Success with "replacement" windows is driven by the original size and design of the house. With limited sizes available in the replacement world, all too often the replacement window did not match the proportions of the original window -- even the "custom" units suffered from this ..... the frame may have been "custom" but they still used a standard set of limited sized sash to make them up. It's especially noticeable with brick houses -- Some people don't even notice it .... having filler strips is fine for some.

Very few companies can provide a true "custom" replacement type window where the sash is "made to order" w/ a thin frame to minimize glass shrinkage and maintain the proportions.
 

MushCreek

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We used Marvin Integrity (fiberglass out, wood in) on our new house build. 15 windows came to about $400 each. Our windows are fairly big because we have high ceilings. I don't know what installation would have cost- I did them myself. MOST windows are installed wrong! Even pros short-cut like crazy. Read up on best practices for window installation, and make sure your contractor will do this. I had a guy say that they could install them for 'about' $50 each. Ummm-no. I can just imagine what kind of work they would have done.

New windows and construction are much easier than totally replacing an existing window. My windows would be a PITA to completely replace. I hope I don't live to see that day!
 

yeldogt

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We used Marvin Integrity (fiberglass out, wood in) on our new house build. 15 windows came to about $400 each. Our windows are fairly big because we have high ceilings. I don't know what installation would have cost- I did them myself. MOST windows are installed wrong! Even pros short-cut like crazy. Read up on best practices for window installation, and make sure your contractor will do this. I had a guy say that they could install them for 'about' $50 each. Ummm-no. I can just imagine what kind of work they would have done.

New windows and construction are much easier than totally replacing an existing window. My windows would be a PITA to completely replace. I hope I don't live to see that day!

Installation is so important -- it's important for all windows to protect the structure ....but extremely important with a wood window in todays tight houses.

People think Tyvek is "wonder wrap" -- It's not and more often incorrectly installed. Tyvek does not take the place of proper flashing .
 

D45

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Interesting enough, I received a 0% for 48 flyer from Pella in the mail yesterday..........I might call and get a quote on the 3 picture windows on the main level

The house was built in 1978, so the windows aren't in bad shape, but I miss those windows with the built in blinds
 

Firebrick43

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If looking at vinyl, find a local okna or sunrise window dealer. They are two of the original vinyl window manufacture(all they do) and IMHO are better than Anderson/pella/Marvin vinyl Windows. Because they don't have national name recognition the the "wood" window manufactures have they are about 60% the cost. They have good name recognition to many pros however

Foam filled frames are standard, good hardware, and many options. Also every window is made to order so they are custom and don't have the extra charge for custom sizes.

I would say also to stay away from Anderson vinyl wrapped wood Windows. The original part of my house is 15 years old and they are rotting. The vinyl shrinks in the cold and pulls away from the joints allowing water into the frame. I have replaced one and the rest are due know as well. They have always sucked to open/close as well
 
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longez

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I work in this industry, at the manufacturer's level. Most of the the advice you've received so far is pretty good. In your part of the country I'd suggest you take a look at Hurd H3, an interesting and very cost effective mid-priced window. Aluminum clad exterior, wood interior and vinyl core. Hurd is now owned by Sierra Pacific, but operated independently. I supply hardware to **all** the manufacturers and could have chosen any of the brands named in this thread with supplier pricing, but elected to use H3 on our new home in Montana. Be sure to do your homework on the IG options, as the glass is a separate topic depending upon location and home orientation.
 

DCarr2

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My attitude is to always go with a small local company vs a big box store or a franchise, whenever possible.

The reason for this is as follows:

Franchises and large companies generally wont have the quality or the local expertise as a smaller outfit.

Your keeping your money in your local economy, your employing your 'neighbor'

Smaller firms typically will stand behind their work 110%. and often times the owner of the company will be working on your house. This is a huge time saver for you as the home owner as if there is a problem, or a question, you can get an answer right away, or if there is a problem will know that it will be handled right now.

Some smaller guys may even offer to do it cheaper, if you pay in cash, vs a check/credit card.

Family owned and operated companies are usually the way to go...

just my $0.02
 

yeldogt

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I'm using LaPage windows on my current project .. they are new construction. I'm thinking the OP really wants a replacement stye. The window longez linked to looks to be a very nice replacement with very thin frame .. I'm keeping that info for a future project.
 

brycez28

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I had new windows installed at my old house, through Home Depot. Home Depot didn't do the install themselves, but I had absolutely no complaints about the company that did do the install. They were regular sized windows, probably 28"w x 36-40"t. Averaged $500 a window installed. I believe they were Jeldwen windows.
 

Robochan

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I just had 9 double hung Soft-lite Bain-bridge windows installed for 4100 out the door. Foam filled frames, composite super spacer. Very high end window. They reinsulated around the windows and even replaced 2 pieces of rotten trim for free. They quoted over the phone before coming for measurements. I wont have any sales people in my house.
 

Scott H in Wheaton

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I had new windows installed at my old house, through Home Depot. Home Depot didn't do the install themselves, but I had absolutely no complaints about the company that did do the install. They were regular sized windows, probably 28"w x 36-40"t. Averaged $500 a window installed. I believe they were Jeldwen windows.

Probably American Craftsman 70 Series, or Simonton VantagePointe 6100 series. They sell JeldWen in the store but it is not a regular part of their installed services. If Home Depot Exteriors was the contractor, all warranty is done through Home Depot, not the installer.
 

Zeke

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Vinyl vs fiberglass?

Which and why?

i was in the replacement window sales and installation business for 25 years and I've stayed out of this because I've posted many times before on the subject. Search 'windows' under my name and you will find all you need to know.

However, to answer this one question, FG is expensive compared to vinyl. If I lived in Alaska, I'd buy the FG. If I lived in some other really cold region, I'd buy FG. Conversely, if I lived in the hot part of AZ, I'd buy FG.

In most of the lower 48, vinyl is fine. ALL windows age and deteriorate over time. Some, not so much like wood does. And that's a function of poor painting. AMHIK. (No, don't.)

There, you can add that to my string on replacement windows.
 

polizei1

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It really comes down to what you want to pay and what results you expect. The same can be said for virtually every product out there. Some people are perfectly content with the cheapest products, some people however like to simply have the very best.

It all depends on what YOU expect from the product and what YOU want to invest into achieving that.
 

6768rogues

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Also think about what you will do later if something breaks. Some window companies make everything obsolete every few years. I used Andersen windows because I personally ordered parts for windows made in the 1950s and they came through with them. Their product line changes, but old parts have always been available.
 

Stuart in MN

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Also think about what you will do later if something breaks. Some window companies make everything obsolete every few years. I used Andersen windows because I personally ordered parts for windows made in the 1950s and they came through with them. Their product line changes, but old parts have always been available.

My brother has a house built in 1956 with Andersen casement windows. He wanted to replace the single pane sashes with new sashes containing insulated glass, and they were able to provide new ones along with the hardware with no problems at all. Everything fit perfectly.
 
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