If you have good load and line at the gfi, consider the fact that you may
have lost neutral or hot somewhere between the gfi and the rest of the
circuit. Ie: there could be a mouse in the wall that is now fried, or
a junction box with a wire nut that loosened up, or a ... You will just
have to find the fox in the henhouse. Try this, take one of the recep-
tacles that are not working apart enough to probe the wires with an
ohm meter (continuity) then do the same thing with the gfi. Get a
length of wire that will span the distance between the two. Have a
helper touch the jumper wire to either the hot or neutral at one location,
then probe your ohm meter between the same polarity and the jumper
at your location. If there is continuity on both the hot and neutral,
you have other than an open in the wiring, and have some other problem.
Temporarily bug the wires of the gfi together, load and line (take the gfi
out of the circuit) then see what happens. With the gfi out of the circuit,
you can also stab a non-working receptacle if it has a ground; If you don't
have 120v between hot and neutral, try hot to ground to see if the neutal
is open or if the hot is open. This may seem difficult, but is quite logical
if you think about it or diagram it out. Last question: Does the gfi test and
consequently reset when you try doing that ? If so, then I'll put money on
there being a open wire somewhere downstream on the load side of the
device.
Uncle Bob
