To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

GFCI breaker or receptacle?

thammel

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2005
Messages
2,259
Location
Maryland
On another thread I brought this up but still have questions. I was amazed at the cost of a 20 amp Square D QO GFCI breaker at $65 at HD! The arc fault one was about $45. From the code, I'm pretty sure the GFCI is required for garage receptacles. So I don't really want to spend $130 for 2 circuits!

It would be no problem to have the first receptacle in the string be a GFCI receptacle - much cheaper. One poster said he limited to 4 receptacles after the GFCI one. Why? I don't see any limitation on the Leviton box. Is a GFCI breaker any better in performance than a GFCI receptacle? And why would one choose an arc fault breaker over a ground fauly breaker? My thinking is that a ground fault is preferred for wet or damp situations. I guess I'm not clear as to the situations that call for an arc fault breaker.

Thanks for all the comments!

Tom
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

matt151617

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2011
Messages
488
Location
New Jersey
Go with the outlet, it's much cheaper. As long as its the first one on the string all the others after it will be protected.

FYI everything in the garage is required to be GFI protected now. Even the garage door opener.
 

Falcon67

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 11, 2009
Messages
18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
I have an average of 12 outlets (3 quads) off every GFCI outlet in the shop. I split some runs that needed to be on both sides of the building and it was cheaper to use two GFCI outlets in those cases than to run wire back and forth. I have 3 outlets in the house garage on two circuits - $30 changes them all to GFCI, so why do it the hard way LOL.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Steevo

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 18, 2009
Messages
8,738
Location
43.49600, -112.04300
The recommendation to only put four additional receptacles beyond the GFCI is simply to keep each circuit to five or less (duplex) receptacles. Not a code requirement, just a way to help avoid too many devices on each circuit.
 
Last edited:

Charles (in GA)

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
12,489
Location
50 mi south of Atlanta
The recommendation to only put four additional receptacles beyond the GFCI is simply to keep each circuit to five or less (duplex) receptacles. Not a code requirement, just a way to help avoid too many devices on each circuit.

Which is really pulling a number out of thin air, because it all depends on what might get plugged into the receptacles and operated at the same time.

For non dwelling, non hotel/motel room, the best guidance is found in NEC 220.14(H), (I), and (L).

(H) Fixed Multioutlet Assemblies. Fixed multioutlet assemblies
used in other than dwelling units or the guest
rooms or guest suites of hotels or motels shall be calculated
in accordance with (H)(1) or (H)(2). For the purposes of
this section, the calculation shall be permitted to be based
on the portion that contains receptacle outlets.
(1) Where appliances are unlikely to be used simultaneously,
each 1.5 m (5 ft) or fraction thereof of each
separate and continuous length shall be considered as
one outlet of not less than 180 volt-amperes.
(2) Where appliances are likely to be used simultaneously,
each 300 mm (1 ft) or fraction thereof shall be considered
as an outlet of not less than 180 volt-amperes.

(I) Receptacle Outlets. Except as covered in 220.14(J)
and (K), receptacle outlets shall be calculated at not less than 180 volt-amperes for each single or for each multiple
receptacle on one yoke. A single piece of equipment consisting
of a multiple receptacle comprised of four or more receptacles
shall be calculated at not less than 90 volt-amperes per
receptacle. This provision shall not be applicable to the receptacle
outlets specified in 210.11(C)(1) and (C)(2).

(J) Dwelling Occupancies. In one-family, two-family, and
multifamily dwellings and in guest rooms or guest suites of
hotels and motels, the outlets specified in (J)(1), (J)(2), and
(J)(3) are included in the general lighting load calculations
of 220.12. No additional load calculations shall be required
for such outlets.
(1) All general-use receptacle outlets of 20-ampere rating
or less, including receptacles connected to the circuits
in 210.11(C)(3)
(2) The receptacle outlets specified in 210.52(E) and (G)
(3) The lighting outlets specified in 210.70(A) and (B)

(K) Banks and Office Buildings. In banks or office buildings,
the receptacle loads shall be calculated to be the larger
of (1) or (2):
(1) The calculated load from 220.14(I)
(2) 11 volt-amperes/m2 or 1 volt-ampere/ft2

(L) Other Outlets. Other outlets not covered in 220.14(A)
through (K) shall be calculated based on 180 volt-amperes
per outlet.


As always, you would need to have the complete code in front of you to understand all of the ifs, ands, and buttttttss involved in it.

Essentially, 180VA per yoke or strap. If the outlet has four or more receptacles then you use 90VA per receptacle.

Thus, a 20amp branch circuit supplying a string of receptacles would be 20x120=2400 divided by 180=13.33 yokes per circuit, or 13 duplex receptacles.

Reality is, I have no more than four receptacles on a given circuit, but but this is due to placement of the receptacles (somewhat limited in a steel building) and the desire to put the receptacles on each wall on a separate circuit(s). I have two duplex receptacles in a deep 4x4 box at each column or post of the building, and in three odd places. Each box has two separate circuits supplying it (NOT multiwire circuits).

Charles
 
Last edited:

wyliesdiesels

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Messages
20,214
Location
Modesto, CA
On another thread I brought this up but still have questions. I was amazed at the cost of a 20 amp Square D QO GFCI breaker at $65 at HD! The arc fault one was about $45. From the code, I'm pretty sure the GFCI is required for garage receptacles. So I don't really want to spend $130 for 2 circuits!

It would be no problem to have the first receptacle in the string be a GFCI receptacle - much cheaper. One poster said he limited to 4 receptacles after the GFCI one. Why? I don't see any limitation on the Leviton box. Is a GFCI breaker any better in performance than a GFCI receptacle? And why would one choose an arc fault breaker over a ground fauly breaker? My thinking is that a ground fault is preferred for wet or damp situations. I guess I'm not clear as to the situations that call for an arc fault breaker.

Thanks for all the comments!

Tom

Just in case you're still unclear on what an AFCI is here's a summary:

AFCIs are used to interrupt arcing faults such as an arcing frayed lamp cord. Arcing faults have the ability to restrike multiple times without causing a breaker to trip. This sets a perfect scenario for a fire which is the reason AFCIs are required in bedrooms.

On the other hand, GFCIs are used to interrupt ground faults/leaking current such as when someone is using a power tool standing in water and the hot wire inside the tool shorts to the frame and the ground prong on its cord is broken off! Current starts returning through alternate paths other than neutral, the GFCI detects an imbalance and trips!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom