Gfci help

[hunterguy86]

Need some help with gfci wiring. All 12/2 nm-b and a 20 amp breaker. My laundry room needs to be gfci protected. The wiring is panel to outlet 1, to outlet 2, to light switch box, then outlet 3.

I currently have the gfci plug in outlet one. Home run from the panel is on line side and all down stream is on load side. It works like it should.

The problem is, when the gfci trips, the room is in the dark. I want to avoid that.

Can I use multiple gfci plugs or should I just pull a new wire and put the light on its own breaker?

I really don't want to pull more wire if I don't have to.


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[the gypsy]

No need to put the light on its on breaker. Just look for the closest electrical connection (out side that room) to your light switch and feed your light switch with a wire from that circuit. OR you can run the wire to your light switch and then the GFCI and so on.

 

[Jess]

Rather than do any rewiring other than in each box, just pigtail a GFI device at each outlet and have the circuit run through to the rest of the outlets and light.

 

[ard]

Assume OP has a finished laundry room, with sheetrock, tile, paint, whatever- and doesnt want to run new wires around...

Rather than do any rewiring other than in each box, just pigtail a GFI device at each outlet and have the circuit run through to the rest of the outlets and light.

Agree-

This means a GFC at outlet 1, another at outlet 2 and a third at outlet 3. The wires in the walls are all NOT GFCI protected, but all the outlets are. If any of the 3 GFCIs trip it only impacts things plugged into that single outlet


Another option- if you CAN get to the light itself (ie one story home, light box accessible from attic) and you can get POWER from some other source TO that box- you can require the switch in the laundry room to pass the power on through- and the legs that go to the light then become switch legs.

 

[Norcal]

Whoever wired it was not doing much in the way of thinking, could picked up power for the light on the line side of the GFCI, but I prefer lights & receptacles on separate circuits, but AFCI requirements make that expensive. As said by others either find another place to pick up power for the light, or pigtail each box & buy 2 more GFCI receptacles.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

GFCI at every box sounds like it will be the easiest assuming walls are finished...

 

[6768rogues]

I would put a GFCI at each outlet to protect only that outlet. Then I would run the wire to the next outlet from the spare terminals on the GFCI line side and that next outlet would have its own GFCI.

 

[hunterguy86]

Thanks for the replies.

I think I'll just put a gfci receptacle at each outlet location.

The walls are finished so I think this is gonna be the easiest route


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[nsula_country]

gfci at every box sounds like it will be the easiest assuming walls are finished...

+1

ct

 

[driftpin]

For some reason I haven't had much luck with GFCI's. We had installed a number of them in an extensive home re-model and I've had to replace a number of them in less than 2 years. None of them had severe duty use. This installation includes inside and outside units. Fifteen amp 120 v. Leviton, replaced w/either 15 or 20 amp Levitons. I disassembled one that had failed to see what had happened, and found that at least one had been probably worked 'hot' as the 120 v. supply leg screw was welded from metal box contact. Still one outside in a weatherproof enclosure was bad the first time I tried to use it, but since it was many months since the project was finaled, I didn't bother calling the electrical contractor, I just replaced it. And yes, I did check for it being wired correctly.

 

[hunterguy86]

For some reason I haven't had much luck with GFCI's. We had installed a number of them in an extensive home re-model and I've had to replace a number of them in less than 2 years. None of them had severe duty use. This installation includes inside and outside units. Fifteen amp 120 v. Leviton, replaced w/either 15 or 20 amp Levitons. I disassembled one that had failed to see what had happened, and found that at least one had been probably worked 'hot' as the 120 v. supply leg screw was welded from metal box contact. Still one outside in a weatherproof enclosure was bad the first time I tried to use it, but since it was many months since the project was finaled, I didn't bother calling the electrical contractor, I just replaced it. And yes, I did check for it being wired correctly.

I went with 20 amp eaton gfci units. I hope I don't have the same trouble.

I considered using gfci breakers but none of the big box stores I've checked have them. I was looking for a 20 amp square d home line breaker that is gfci only. All they seem to carry are the afci/gfci combos. Plus gfci breaker puts me in the same boat as the original issue.

I'm gonna check online and order gfci breakers for the kitchen instead of using the gfci outlets.


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[Jess]

If you get into the AFCI or GFCI breakers required now for pretty much any work, be prepared for sticker shock. I get all my materials from a friendly wholesaler but to replace an old fuse and small breaker setup cobbled together years ago, it ran over $2000. I used Square D combo breakers and it turned out really nice. A word of advice if you are goin to use Square D QO, get a PON (plug on neutral) panel and you won't need the neutral pigtails off each breaker as the panel has neutral buss that the breaker plugs onto. Goes without saying, be sure you get PON breakers to use this feature.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

For some reason I haven't had much luck with GFCI's. We had installed a number of them in an extensive home re-model and I've had to replace a number of them in less than 2 years. None of them had severe duty use. This installation includes inside and outside units. Fifteen amp 120 v. Leviton, replaced w/either 15 or 20 amp Levitons. I disassembled one that had failed to see what had happened, and found that at least one had been probably worked 'hot' as the 120 v. supply leg screw was welded from metal box contact. Still one outside in a weatherproof enclosure was bad the first time I tried to use it, but since it was many months since the project was finaled, I didn't bother calling the electrical contractor, I just replaced it. And yes, I did check for it being wired correctly.

I have had some new GFCIs either bad out of the box or bad a few months later.

Sounds like someone did some sloppy work. I wouldve called and had them warranty their work...

Were the outside ones WR- weather resistant?