GFCI requirements for detached garage?

[Innovate1]

Was just told that ALL outlets must have GFCI. ( As I understand it "outlets" in the code means any load - not sure if they meant all receptacles or all outlets.) So now am wondering what all needs it. AC unit? Furnace? Our code page just says they follow the current code. Need to look up what the state (Illinois) has adopted.

Was also told no AFCI requirements.

 

[Innovate1]

Just looked up Homeline 20A 240V GFCI breaker. $100! Won't be putting in many of those. Might just run conduit to the attic so I can run them later if needed or run a few extra 120V circuits and convert them later when needed. I expect the price will come down as they become more common.

 

[exranger06]

All receptacles need GFCI. Hard-wired lighting and hard-wired appliances don't need GFCI.

If your area is following the 2020 Edition of the NEC, then "all receptacles" includes 240V receptacles. Older versions of the NEC require only 120V receptacles to be GFCI.
Most areas have not adopted the 2020 edition yet.

AFCI is not required.

 

[alfredeneuman]

Unless the 2020 NEC has been adopted by your area it's not so.
If it has you are SOL

 

[Innovate1]

My location states the building code they are on but for electrical and plumbing: "The most recent editions of the National Electrical Code and Illinois Plumbing Code are enforced." I am guessing this is so they don't have to formally adopt new editions but just a guess. They just confirmed hard wired stuff doesn't need GFCI.

Now I am wondering what else I might miss. Since this is not a dwelling I think I dodged the outside disconnect requirement.

 

[Innovate1]

Unless the 2020 NEC has been adopted by your area it's not so.
If it has you are SOL

Specifically what are you saying is "not so"?

 

[Terry D]

Receptacle outlets are required. A outlet is where utilization equipment is connected to the building wiring. A outlet doesn't mean a receptacle. Thats why in the code it is referred to receptacle outlets. So as already mentioned, something that is hard wired, is not required

Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[Innovate1]

Thanks Terry. My AHJ apparently misused "outlet" as he said all outlets required GFCI but when questioned stated not for hardwired devices.

 

[dave*99]

You show your location as Illinois. Your state does not have statewide adoption of the NEC. Cities adopt it individually.
Look up your area on the NEC site.

https://www.nema.org/Technical/Fiel...rical Code by State or local jurisdiction.pdf

 

[Innovate1]

I don't find my local city on the list and some of the info in that document is very dated.

 

[Norcal]

Only State that has adopted the 2020 now is Massachusetts.

 

[dave*99]

Let's be clear on this point, adoption of the code is done in a variety of ways:
Statewide
By city
By municipality
Not at all
And probably some I missed.

And the adoption of a specific code or code update is always tied to a date.

And the AHJ will know the date.

Why? Let's say I apply for a permit on January 1
And the permit issues on February 1.
And and a new revision of the code is adopted on March 1.
I finish the job on April 1 and call for inspection.

What rules should the inspector hold me to? The revision in force at the time the permit was issued. It is not uncommon to apply for permits in advance of a code cycle change even if it will be some time until you do the work.

 

[Moosefire]

One thing to think about (at least in michigan) it used to be that a garage only had to have 1 light bulb (switched) and 2 outlets 1 for the garage door and 1 random. So if you could get away with minimal amount of outlets and lights to pass inspection, then add whatever you want afterwards.

Also, would it count if the first outlet in the daisy chain was gfci, then the rest not be? This way if there was a load on the last outlet, it would still trip the gfci circuit without having every single outlet be gfci

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[tulenutn2o]

I don't find my local city on the list and some of the info in that document is very dated.

Tongue in cheek comment to follow.......That means no rules for you!

 

[tulenutn2o]

One thing to think about (at least in michigan) it used to be that a garage only had to have 1 light bulb (switched) and 2 outlets 1 for the garage door and 1 random. So if you could get away with minimal amount of outlets and lights to pass inspection, then add whatever you want afterwards.

Also, would it count if the first outlet in the daisy chain was gfci, then the rest not be? This way if there was a load on the last outlet, it would still trip the gfci circuit without having every single outlet be gfci

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That counts because the string is protected.

 

[exranger06]

One thing to think about (at least in michigan) it used to be that a garage only had to have 1 light bulb (switched) and 2 outlets 1 for the garage door and 1 random. So if you could get away with minimal amount of outlets and lights to pass inspection, then add whatever you want afterwards.

Also, would it count if the first outlet in the daisy chain was gfci, then the rest not be? This way if there was a load on the last outlet, it would still trip the gfci circuit without having every single outlet be gfci

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Yes, that counts. The code requires that every receptacle is GFCI PROTECTED, not that every receptacle has a GFCI built in. You could also just use GFCI breakers. You pretty much have to use one of those methods for receptacles on the ceiling, and other receptacles that are not readily accessible - you're not allowed to use a GFCI receptacle in those locations; you need to be able to reset the GFCI easily, without a ladder and without having to move something heavy out of the way.

Also, the 2020 NEC requires 240V receptacles to be GFCI protected, and there's no such thing as a 240V receptacle with a built-in GFCI, so your only option is hooking it up to a GFCI breaker.

 

[dave*99]

This thread is drifting alot.

The OP asks about GFCI requirements for HIS garage. And he asks about 240V equipment and hardwired equipment, so it's not the case of a common receptacle. And the requirements are exactly defined in whatever revision of the NEC his local AHJ is using. Since he is in Illinois, and in that state adoption of the code is by city, the correct answer is the one he gets from the AHJ. One thing we know for sure - his AHJ is not on the 2020 code.

Here is a reference for those who would like to see how the various editions of the NEC have propagated across the country. The date range of code in force varies greatly.

https://www.nfpa.org/NEC/NEC-adoption-and-use/NEC-adoption-maps

 

[Innovate1]

How are you so sure I am not on the 2020 code? I sent the question of which version to the AHJ but they haven't answered the question.

I was told by the AHJ that ALL outlets (apparently they meant receptacles) including 230V needed to be GFCI.

 

[Norcal]

NEC adoption by State.

https://www.mikeholt.com/technical-nec-menu.php

 

[refer radar]

Yes, that counts. The code requires that every receptacle is GFCI PROTECTED, not that every receptacle has a GFCI built in. You could also just use GFCI breakers. .

This. "gfci protected" is the key phrase

You could also just wire up a standard gfci to protect all of the downstream receptacles. Just have to look up how the whole "line and load" works on a gfci receptacle. So realistically, the best cheapest way to do it for standard 120 receptacles is to simply put a gfci receptacle on the first receptacle on the circuit so it protects every other receptacle on that same circuit.

 

[Innovate1]

One of the emails from the AHJ was in my spam for some reason... It noted that the city is under IRC 2012 and included a quote from that.

E3902.2 Garage and Accessory Building Receptacles

125-volt, single-phase, 15- or 20-ampere receptacles installed in garages and grade-level portions of unfinished accessory buildings used for storage or work areas shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel. [210.8(A)(2)]


E3902.3 Outdoor Receptacles

125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles installed outdoors shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel. [210.8(A)(3)]

They go on to say:

ALL receptacles MUST have GFCI protection.  The lights DO NOT.

I thought IRC only covered mechanical construction details and was surprised it included electric.

So he apparently isn't totally accurate about ALL receptacles as it is only 120 V not 240V. And rather than say lights don't need it I think it would be more accurate to say hardwired devices don't need it. If lights are plugged into receptacles I expect they need GFCI.

I think the guy is getting tired of my questions. I plan to proceed to just do GFCI on the 120V receptacles and deal with any issues at inspection. Will use GFCI breakers for high ones like the jackshaft openers.

 

[Norcal]

One of the emails from the AHJ was in my spam for some reason... It noted that the city is under IRC 2012 and included a quote from that.

E3902.2 Garage and Accessory Building Receptacles

125-volt, single-phase, 15- or 20-ampere receptacles installed in garages and grade-level portions of unfinished accessory buildings used for storage or work areas shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel. [210.8(A)(2)]


E3902.3 Outdoor Receptacles

125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles installed outdoors shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel. [210.8(A)(3)]

They go on to say:

ALL receptacles MUST have GFCI protection.  The lights DO NOT.

I thought IRC only covered mechanical construction details and was surprised it included electric.

So he apparently isn't totally accurate about ALL receptacles as it is only 120 V not 240V. And rather than say lights don't need it I think it would be more accurate to say hardwired devices don't need it. If lights are plugged into receptacles I expect they need GFCI.

I think the guy is getting tired of my questions. I plan to proceed to just do GFCI on the 120V receptacles and deal with any issues at inspection. Will use GFCI breakers for high ones like the jackshaft openers.

Another option is a blankface GFCI in a accessible location.

 

[Innovate1]

Regular breaker $4.50 (Homeline)
Dead front GFCI $18

GFCI breaker $40

I could go either way. The dead front GFCI could be put in a location near the load which is a plus. Still for the $22 bucks additional I am not sure it's worth the trouble of putting in the extra box and wiring it up. I only have a couple circuits that need this.

Main point is I DON'T need GFCI for 240V receptacles. In spite of the fact that AHJ has said ALL receptacles. He is apparently speaking loosely and not considering 240V receptacles. I already ask for clarification a couple times but he just keeps saying all. Will have a copy of his email quoting the code that says 125V at inspection and deal with it then if it is an issue. I will likely just run conduit to a few boxes and not wire them rather than run 240V circuits since I don't know what I will be needing yet.

 

[AntonLargiader]

Dead front GFCI $18

I don't see the big advantage of dead-front GFCIs. For about the same cost you can have a recep there that does the same thing.

 

[Shiftless]

I don't see the big advantage of dead-front GFCIs. For about the same cost you can have a recep there that does the same thing.

I thought of that too, but I suppose a guy might want a “dedicated” circuit protected by GFCI that’s accessible. Somebody could plug a high load, heater or ???, nto that GFCI receptacle and not leave enough juice to run the door opener or whatever up near the ceiling.

 

[AntonLargiader]

Yeah, but he'd probably be there so it would be a non-issue. Plug-in heater? OK, if you do dumb stuff you will have problems.

 

[Shiftless]

Yep, I agree with that. If you do dumb stuff, you’ll have problems.

 

[Norcal]

I thought of that too, but I suppose a guy might want a “dedicated” circuit protected by GFCI that’s accessible. Somebody could plug a high load, heater or ???, nto that GFCI receptacle and not leave enough juice to run the door opener or whatever up near the ceiling.

A GFCI is not a overcurrent device, it does not care if your overloading the circuit, it is a personnel protection device.

 

[Innovate1]

A GFCI is not a overcurrent device, it does not care if your overloading the circuit, it is a personnel protection device.

True. But the breaker would trip. Either way the power cuts off. If the circuit is powering lights (for example, ceiling outlets) you could suddenly be in the dark. Seems like a good idea to keep some circuits dedicated without other receptacles. Lights are the only one I can think of that is really needed. OHD openers could share an outlet.

Not sure if NEC rules require a dedicated outlet for anything.

Dead front GFCI are actually a little more than receptacles.

 

[Shiftless]

True. But the breaker would trip. Either way the power cuts off. If the circuit is powering lights (for example, ceiling outlets) you could suddenly be in the dark. Seems like a good idea to keep some circuits dedicated without other receptacles. Lights are the only one I can think of that is really needed. OHD openers could share an outlet.

Not sure if NEC rules require a dedicated outlet for anything.

Dead front GFCI are actually a little more than receptacles.

My overhead door outlet shares a 20 amp circuit with a few receptacles at the back of one of my workbenches. There is a GFCI receptacle first in line near the sub panel. I’ve never had a problem with that. Maybe I should try to open the garage door with a heat gun running...

My little pancake portable air compressor gets plugged into a dedicated 20 amp. circuit.

My primary overhead lighting fixtures plug into ceiling duplex receptacles that are on another circuit with GFCI protection provided by a receptacle within easy reach without using a ladder.

All of this runs in surface mounted EMT.


.

 

[slackdaddy1]

My garage was finished/inspected in 2017, I beleieve they were on the 2015 elec code.
Inspector failed it because the 2 garage door outlets were not GFCI.

Another note, I paid the money for the GFCI breaker for the 220v welder outlets,, it's me and my family working in there,, why not?

 

[sberry]

I plan to proceed to just do GFCI on the 120V receptacles and deal with any issues at inspection

This, the worse is he makes you change something, you have a legit permit its no big deal.