Gfci

[Fudog]

Good Morning, I have an outlet that only one half worked so I put a new outlet in and everything was fine and then I decided to put a GFCI in. I took the outlet out and installed the GFCI. The circuit breaker from the panel is 20 Amp and all of the outlets were rated at 15 AMP. I should also mention that this is the middle of the run in the circuit. Installed the hot and neutral from the power coming into the box to the line portion of the GFCI and the other two to the load and grounds to ground terminal and all connections were tight. I flipped the breaker on and had power to the line terminals but nothing at all through the GFCI so I hit the reset button and nothing as well as the test button. Double checked the wires and everything was hooked up right. I then thought the GFCI was bad so I had a 20 Amp and tried it with the same results. The breaker panel is about 2 years old. As I said before just a regular outlet worked OK. This is in a kitchen on one side of the sink and there is an outlet on the other side with a light switch in the same box that works a light over the sink. Also with the circuit breaker off flipping the light switch off and on it was showing continuity in the off position.Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks and have a good day.

 

[pattenp]

Sounds like you've got something connected wrong. If you pigtail both the up stream and down stream wires to the line side of the gfci outlet then only the gfci outlet is protected. If you connect the down stream wire to the load side then all outlets down stream are gfci protected, you probably already know this. I'm sorry, I'm being of no help.

 

[ishiboo]

Good Morning, I have an outlet that only one half worked so I put a new outlet in and everything was fine and then I decided to put a GFCI in. I took the outlet out and installed the GFCI. The circuit breaker from the panel is 20 Amp and all of the outlets were rated at 15 AMP. I should also mention that this is the middle of the run in the circuit. Installed the hot and neutral from the power coming into the box to the line portion of the GFCI and the other two to the load and grounds to ground terminal and all connections were tight. I flipped the breaker on and had power to the line terminals but nothing at all through the GFCI so I hit the reset button and nothing as well as the test button. Double checked the wires and everything was hooked up right. I then thought the GFCI was bad so I had a 20 Amp and tried it with the same results. The breaker panel is about 2 years old. As I said before just a regular outlet worked OK. This is in a kitchen on one side of the sink and there is an outlet on the other side with a light switch in the same box that works a light over the sink. Also with the circuit breaker off flipping the light switch off and on it was showing continuity in the off position.Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks and have a good day.

It sounds fairly impossible that things are "wired correctly" but don't work, especially the switch continuity. To me, the GFCI's "load" and "line" sides sound reversed, but it seems you could have wired several things incorrectly. A new (UL 943) GFCI will not reset if they are backwards, to prevent people from unintentionally installing a GFCI and having it provide power, but not GFCI protect, the outlets beyond it.

For sure, the switch wouldn't show continuity when off. A single switch has two screws typically on the same side, both brass, this is where you checked continuity?

 

[ishiboo]

Here's a photo. The power source (line) needs to come directly to the LINE side of the GFCI. "Black to brass, or you'll fry your ***"... black (hot) wire to brass screw, white (neutral) wire to silver screw. The downstream outlets connect to the LOAD side. All GFCI's I've seen recently have the yellow stickers over the LOAD side when new.

 

[mrb]

agggghhhhh of all the pictures of GFCIs everywhere and we end up with one of the GFCI in the hot gfci thread....

 

[green.bubbly]

It sounds fairly impossible that things are "wired correctly" but don't work, especially the switch continuity. To me, the GFCI's "load" and "line" sides sound reversed, but it seems you could have wired several things incorrectly. A new (UL 943) GFCI will not reset if they are backwards, to prevent people from unintentionally installing a GFCI and having it provide power, but not GFCI protect, the outlets beyond it.

For sure, the switch wouldn't show continuity when off. A single switch has two screws typically on the same side, both brass, this is where you checked continuity?

Yeah, and it is really not that hard to cross the line and load, well at least for me it wasn't. Even though I thought I double checked it.

 

[donnie]

I am going to pile on here, hope you do not mind.

I had a breaker keep tripping when I turned it on in the main box.
Traced it to the GFCI outlet in the bathroom.
It had to sets of leads going into it, four wires total.
I checked and they are both hot. Had to turn off two breakers to kill both circuits.
Can you wire up an GFCI with 2 hot leads going into it?
The one circuit leads to another bathroom. but it is hot.
I removed the pig tails and just wired it up with the one circuit coming in, put it did not work. Thinking about it now I think I put it on the load side!!
My plan is to put a GFCI outlet in the other bathroom.